Synthetic oil is better but don't think that is necessary.

Me and my buddies have a combined experience with turbo charged diesel engine (even harsher on engine oil than petrol engine) of a few decades combined and we only used good quality mineral oil and none of us have ever experienced engine oil related problem. Even on the one with 1/2 million kilometer on the odometer.

But like you say, use GOOD quality oil, change oil filter, and even more importantly, good quality air filter. No performance filter like K & N because these let in more air but also more dust particle that will destroy the turbine blades.


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 2 2012, 07:19 AM

Have people done test on the HKS? If no, you never know but I do know one thing, there are no free lunches in this world. If you let in more air, that means the filter must either:
1. Offer more surface area but mushroom type will let in hotter air from inside the engine bay instead of cooler outside air aka air with less oxygen content. So net effect may even be zero.
2. Bigger filter hole size and that means more abrasive dust particle into engine. This is apparently what's happening with K&N when some people did a test on turbo diesel engine (which will suck in more air/particle than petrol engine). And mind you, K&N is even more reputable than HKS.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 2 2012, 09:54 AM

May I ask, what sort of driving? Highway? City? Congested City?

Ha. I have no idea how far is that distance nor the traffic condition.

Wait till you have to claim engine warranty and then you will know void or not void. Legally, they have every right to void your warranty. I wouldn't advise you bringing your own oil.

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Added on February 17, 2012, 5:52 pmBig differences.

0W30 has to be Fully Synthetic.
10W30 can also be Mineral.

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Added on February 17, 2012, 5:54 pmIf manual says to use xW30 and you uses xW40 instead, you will feel lost of power.

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Added on February 17, 2012, 5:58 pm10K must be Fully Synthetic is the most common found urban legend in Malaysia. No such thing overseas and they must be laughing at Malaysian. In Europe, they have use Mineral for up to 65,000-km. So 10K is peanut.


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 17 2012, 06:07 PM

One of the main function of engine oil is to prevent 'wear and tear'. They can always say your own engine oil is not up to the job resulting in excessive wear and tear thus voiding warranty. Either you have technical expert to proof otherwise or forfeit warranty.

The tribunal just can's simply take your word. So in that case, you must ask Amsoil, Liqu Moly, Eneos etc to send their oil specialists from abroad to appear in front of the tribunal to state your case for you. Do you think these companies will do that sending their specialist from USA or France or Italy? Even if they will, do you want to pay for their travel expenses and hotel and food etc? If you are, you are super rich and now driving a BMW or Rolls Royce already. Engine oil would be the least of your concern by now.

And even if you did managed to get those specialist from Amsoil etc, you still have to prove to Amsoil the Amsoil you bought from some spare part shops wasn't fake. Can you do that?

So what you are saying are just fairy tales. Not practical at all. And that's why I tell people if you value your warranty, just use SC oil.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 18 2012, 10:55 AM

A 'better' oil in the wrong engine will end in disaster. For example, if you put a super expensive RM50/liter 1st class Fully Synthetic 0W20 oil in your turbo charged Exora and you may see trouble whereas a cheapo RM10/liter Mineral 11W30 oil may fully protects it.

So all Petronas has to say is, "our oil is suitable for it's application" and that would be the end of it.

Because it's Proton who will be footing the warranty bills, Proton has the sole right to decide which oil company they choose to deal with. And it has to be based more on commercial reason rather than technical reason. Because as you say, there are other oils from other companies that are equally or even better than Petronas's.

But if you are willing to foot the warranty bills yourself, then you have every right to choose your own oil. Until then, it's Proton's call.

Generally speaking, a turbo charged engine is SUPPOSED to be using about 5% more fuel than a non-turbo version of the same engine. In exchange for that extra 5% fuel consumption, you can look forward to getting about 20% more power.

So in this case, the turbo charged 1.6 liter engine can look forward to performance similar to a 1.92 liter engine but uses less fuel than a normal aspirated 1.92 engine. A good deal.

Well, that's the theory anyway.

Severe usage: City driving. Frequent stop & go. Frequent short distance traveling.

Non severe: Long distance highway at 90kph

Water is produced during the combustion of Hydrocarbon (fuel) and air (oxygen).

Short distance does not allow the engine to be hot enough or hot long enough to remove all the water vapor produced. Water will contaminate the engine oil. Water is one reason why some people find engine oil level seldom goes down over time aka, not a good thing.

On the other hand. Long distance driving allows all the water in engine oil to be burned off and one reason why some people reported a drop in engine oil level after a long run aka, a good thing.

it should also have stayed at that optimal operating temperature long enough to do the job.

No idea. Your guess is as good as mine.

But all I know is, if we use the proper oil (viscosity & grade) and change according to manual schedule (either km traveled or how many months, whichever comes first), the chance of having engine oil related engine break down is as rare as getting struck by lightning. So I wouldn't worry too much over it.

Correct me if I am wrong but I seldom come across people complaining about the reliability and durability of the Campro engine. All the complaint I heard are lack of low end power and high FC. Correct?

I was told best to wait till March till the 2nd batch comes out because by then, they will have sort out some of the gremlin already so safer to buy.

Mineral. Semi. Synthetic. All have same Oil Change Interval.

The CVT howling sound is so loud when start to move from standstill. Once up to over 60km/hr, less so. Is that common on all Bold or just some?

May be i remember wrong but I thought I have once sat in another Bold but don't recall hearing those CVT hum. Anyone having sat in multiple Bold to confirm that?

What brand is the Bold's air cond?