Never buy Cap Ayam brand coolant. They sell what I called 'colored' water just to tipu you.

Only buy from people who know coolant or if in doubt, buy from Proton ONLY. Because there are several different type of Coolant all with different type of chemical for different type of engine metal. Too long to discuss here. So just buy from Proton.

Never use 100% concentrated Coolant. They need to be diluted with water (Distilled or R.O. water only)

Normally it's 50% concentrated Coolant + 50% water (actual range is 30% to 70% so 50% is a nice number). Some of the coolant you buy are PRE-MIXED, meaning it comes out of the factory with 50:50 coolant+water already. So they are ready for use without the need to add water yourself.

Anyone who think he only need 1 bottle concentrated Coolant per radiator is talking absolute nonsense. Assuming your radiator is 3 liters, you will need a MINIMUM of 1 liter (33%) concentrated coolant. These are indisputable facts.

This is very light viscosity oil. What oil does the car manual says?

I don't think Semi Synthetic or Mineral has much to do with your problem. But rather, it's the thinner viscosity that does the job.

As for reliability, if the car manual does indeed tells you to use 10W30 but you didn't, then you yourself are to be blamed.

20W50. It's the 50 that is causing high FC. Not the 20.

Not even little bit of plastic like glove box compartment lid etc here and there breaking off? Or something came loose that calls for frequent trip to SC? And one trip to SC is one day leave gone down the drain. Do that several times a year and you ended up with no leave for holiday. These are the thing that worries me.



This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jan 29 2012, 07:20 AM

Only in Malaysia you get people saying you can extend if use Fully Synthetic. This is what they call "Malaysia Boleh".

Overseas, Mineral or Sem-Syn or Fully Syn all need to be changed at THE SAME TIME.

As I say, this is "malaysia boleh" mentality. The No.1 reason why they are so expensive is because they can withstand the super cold of Arctic and super hot of the Sahara desert without breaking down. NOT because they can have longer oil change interval.

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Added on January 29, 2012, 7:07 pmShow me one single article written by university or true oil specialist or professional motor magazine saying Synthetic can have longer oil change interval. There are NONE. Period.

Hence Synthetic extended OCI is a "Malaysia Boleh" phenomenon.

Note: I am ONLY referring strictly to OCI.


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jan 29 2012, 07:08 PM

I did not see saying it can't be done with Mineral?

Now if you use your brain to think carefully, what Shell is saying Synthetic can last 10,000km but they deliberately avoid saying you can't do that with Mineral. That is why they kept quiet so gullible customer like yourself will pay them more money.

In plain English, I am saying "Mineral and Synthetic" has the same OCI. Not one longer or shorter than the others.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jan 29 2012, 07:53 PM

Show me a car manufacturer's recommendation saying you can have extended OCI with Synthetic but not Mineral. You people do not seem to understand English and I suggest you consult a lawyer. No where does it say "Synthetic can last 10K but Mineral 5K".

On the other hand, there are many articles from car manufacturer and professional magazine saying what I just said aka "Synthetic and Mineral OCI are the same".

I am saying these so that you people will not be 'tipu' by Synthetic oil salesman who will saying anything to get your money.

http://www.scania.com/media/pressreleases/...000en63990.aspx

60.000 km: The longer intervals do not require the use of synthetic oil or automatic chassis lubrication.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/products/4232672
But don't assume that if a synthetic is so good (read: very expensive) that you don't need to change it as often

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jan 29 2012, 07:53 PM

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Added on January 29, 2012, 8:07 pmLonger by how much? Longer by 1 kilometer or 100,000 kilometer? They never dare to put a figure on that and how it compared to Mineral.

FYI, Mineral base oil can last 60,000-km. So what is 10,000-km?

Now if you actually take the trouble to research this topic, you will find that the 'rate limiting step' is not base oil deterioration that requires oil change. It's depletion of additives and saturation of soot and on these 2 count, both Mineral and Synthetic are the same. Hence same OCI.

Please use your thinking skill to know what you are reading. Don't take thing at face value.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jan 29 2012, 08:09 PM

All Shell website said was "Synthetic can last longer". That International link never said "Synthetic can last 10K but Mineral 5K"

It's when some Malaysian will start to get creative and say "Synthetic 10K and Mineral 5K". You once again prove there is Malaysia Boleh phenomenon.

If you still disagree, I suggest you send an email to that International website about whether that creative statement is true or false. They may give you a prize for "creating something out of nothing".


For those who still don't understand what I wrote, let me give you this super simple hypothetical explanation.

Synthetic base oil last 10K. Mineral base oil last 5K.

Synthetic oil contain additives that last 5K. Mineral oil contains the same additives so also last 5K.

After 5000-km, engine will produce 500gm of dirt.
3 liter of Synthetic oil can hold a maximum of 500gm of dirt.
3 liter of Mineral oil can also hold a maximum 500gm of dirt.

Now ask yourself, what is the OCI for Synthetic or Mineral? 5K or 10K.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jan 29 2012, 08:45 PM

Yap, derailed to stop some wild unsubstantiated rumor from spreading as truth. Some do it deliberately (like some unscrupulous synthetic oil salesman out to make a fast buck) but some do it out of ignorant (and still not realizing it).

Those from Toyota and Mitsubishi and Isuzu don't have it either on their turbo diesel. So I guess no manufacturer fit it as standard here.

Unfortunately if you fit a turbo timer yourself, the manufacturer will void your warranty. Catch 22 situation.

Some people say you don't need turbo timer but some say you do. So best check your Bold car manual to see what it says about engine shut down. Do you need to wait a while means you need it. If it say you can switch off straight away means you don't need it.

What if after 2 yrs 11 months 29 days the turbo is still running. And come 3 yrs 1 day later, it decide to call it quit? So how?

If we look at how a turbo work, it is prudent to let it cool down a bit before switching off. Once the engine switched off, no more engine oil will be circulating to cool the turbine bearing. Cooling the radiator is a poor alternative, if of any use at all.

As for the manufacturer saying there is no need to let turbine bearing cool down before switching off, I think they have a vested interest that you car don't last too long. Otherwise, how to get you to buy another new car from them? Furthermore if their turbo so tough, why even the need for radiator fan to run before stopping?

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 1 2012, 04:19 PM

Let's look at the mathematics.

Turbo timer with fitting RM500
Let engine run 3 minutes before shut down after a hard running. Cost of petrol ????

Add everything together and it will never get to RM10K.

That is why I prefer to fit one despite many people saying there is no need for it simply because it is cheaper to be prudent. Unfortunately, voiding of warranty is in the way.

Your interest and their interest are not the same. It is in their interest (cheaper cost) to fit a lousy tires to the Exora. But is that in your interest? Ditto this turbo issue.

Can't compare Proton with Porsche lah. Super car like Porsche may even come with tires not commonly found outside so you are stuck with....OEM tires.

But I know what you mean. I have friend who will always go back buying the same lousy tires that came with the car. They think the car manufacturer know best so those must be the best tire for their car. LOL.

Though rare, there are indeed time I don't have chance to drive below 2000 rpm for 5 minutes before switching off. So how? Sit in car for a few minutes or get a turbo timer to do the job?