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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V25, Keep it up!!! Old and Retro machines

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poolcarpet
post Feb 7 2012, 08:51 AM

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unbelievable... were you going at 5th gear 2k rpm all the way?

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Feb 7 2012, 01:22 AM)
Hello... New update on my fc...
Went I-City few days ago and can calculate... Now with:
Full load of 1 driver 3 passengers
Full tank of fuel
Air con at mid bar and speed 2
About 60km highway and 63km street
10mins+ idling at car parks waiting for passengers

Now what I got here is 6.413 L/100km... or 15.5km/L...
Travelled for 123.1km used 7.894 litres of fuel...

EDIT: Double post
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Added on February 7, 2012, 8:56 amone way to check, look at date code on the tyres...

QUOTE(salimbest83 @ Feb 7 2012, 02:58 AM)
yeah. i oso think its 'xboleh percaya" punya mileage.
wanna call him tomorrow.
if real, is it better take than lmst?
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This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Feb 7 2012, 08:56 AM
poolcarpet
post Feb 9 2012, 11:15 AM

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1.7k on exhaust for a 99 iswara? wow you really love your car smile.gif
poolcarpet
post Feb 9 2012, 11:26 AM

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nice, if you ever want to let go your ride, try and offer it here first tongue.gif well loved car! smile.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 9 2012, 11:20 AM)
dah la 3k (including air con service/part replacements too, coil and condenser lol) on complete engine overhaul.
slightly more for ICE.

it basically dwarfs what i am about to pay for the exhausts lol
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poolcarpet
post Feb 10 2012, 10:26 AM

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I think you'll be fine going with the original Proton part?

Have to press all the way down could be brake fluid low? Checked already? And while changing the brake pads, I think it's a good idea to change the brake fluid too....


QUOTE(fantagero @ Feb 10 2012, 01:14 AM)
I'll probably want to change the brake pad first as I need to press all the way down to let the car have some grip. that's why asking for recommendation what to hunt. Any price range to look for and what lousy brand to avoid.
poolcarpet
post Feb 10 2012, 10:27 AM

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haha same for my ride... mechanical/interior all ok (except some dieseling ocassionally), but from outside also looks like a piece of scrap! tongue.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 9 2012, 11:23 PM)
from the outside, with the exception of my brand new tires/rims, the car looks like a piece of scrap metal laugh.gif
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poolcarpet
post Feb 10 2012, 09:35 PM

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Me too haha.... But i'm going as stock as possible... No fancy upgrades or anything...

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 10 2012, 03:54 PM)
thats what i've been doing for the past 2-3 ish years haha
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poolcarpet
post Feb 11 2012, 05:35 PM

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Sure? I thought it was about rm55 each for the back, and rm110 each for the front... Total around rm330 excl workmanship...

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 11 2012, 12:57 PM)
a set of front/back KYB OEM replacement are around rm200 more or less
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This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Feb 11 2012, 05:35 PM
poolcarpet
post Feb 13 2012, 07:20 AM

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sorry not trying to be an **** but you were going at 155km/h at JALAN IPOH and taking a photo while driving at that speed????

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 13 2012, 03:36 AM)
Forgot to take picture at sg.Besi highway, this was at jln.ipoh. Add 3.4% =I was running at around 155 km/h http://twitpic.com/8j3rf0
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poolcarpet
post Feb 13 2012, 09:27 AM

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well, if nothing happens then no issue right? but if something unwanted happens and if there is any loss of life, i don't think that's a nice feeling to live with for the rest of life... so personally, reserve all these speeding test for the track, not on public roads please.

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 13 2012, 09:17 AM)
tak leh ke sad.gif
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poolcarpet
post Feb 13 2012, 10:16 AM

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sometimes it's when there is low traffic where accidents happen, cause the other party/person also don't expect a car, especially one speeding... sad.gif

but it's good that you do realize not a good idea to do that, i've been an idiot before too but thank god nothing happened.

track racing would be interesting smile.gif but think like you, i don't want to invest in all those stuffs to get the car track ready smile.gif so it's fine - will race virtually hahaha tongue.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 13 2012, 09:48 AM)
don't get me wrong though, what you/my parents/friends say is correct, what i am doing is in no way right at all if i value my life. it's just the kinda thing idiots do to seek cheap thrills unfortunately

Added on February 13, 2012, 9:49 am
poolcarpet
post Feb 17 2012, 09:23 AM

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Yes true, for older engines especially if you've NEVER used fully syn before, some of the wear and tear in the internal areas are sealed by little bit of sludges and clogs. If you suddenly use fully syn (or even do an engine flush) you might dislodge these and cause problems.

So for old engines, if it's working, don't mess with it. Just stick back to the same engine oil you've been using all these while, whether mineral or semi-syn.

here's a good resource to read up on engine oils -> http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

For the water pump, normally yes because once you've removed the parts to access the timing belt, you might as well change the water pump as well as there is wear and tear. Ori Proton water pump should cost less than RM100, around RM50 if I'm not wrong so most mechanics will recommend to change it to avoid future repeat labor to remove all the parts.

I changed my timing belt + water pump + engine mountings last year total about RM600 I think. Engine mountings was a big differentiator, if your iswara is shaking all over, consider changing the mountings, well worth the money spent.

Your local spare part shop (by now, I hope you have a regular spare part shop, if not, start looking for one!) should be able to quote you the prices for these various parts then you can see if mechanic overcharging you or not. Sometimes I will buy the parts myself, bring to nearby petrol station mechanic and get them to change for me. And to get on their good books (since I didn't buy the parts from them), I normally give the mechanic extra tip for the labour smile.gif so far they are happy smile.gif and I am happy too cause I know the source of my parts and any issue, I just go back to the regular spare part shop and hantam them smile.gif Never need to do that so far smile.gif

QUOTE(fantagero @ Feb 16 2012, 04:38 PM)
but according to mechanic guy, better buy normal engine oil, he said if use full syn, can cause sludge or berketul.. true or not??
next on the list, timing belt and the rest of the belt..
in Malaysia, is it recommended  to change the water pump together with the belts?
quoted around rm200 for the belt change. sounds cheap
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Added on February 17, 2012, 9:24 amNah, Iswara pump for sure is below RM100. It's cheap. For RM200, you're talking about conti cars water pump already, I know I've gone through that before tongue.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 16 2012, 08:37 PM)
pump oem replacement iinm also between rm100-200, original ones i dont think can find for our cars already. its not something as cheap as mere timing belts/spark plug. if you rich, then by all means go ahead. else, change only when its spoil or not performing up to par, is more than sufficient.
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Added on February 17, 2012, 9:29 amyou should not be worrying about what the mechanic need to do to change the pump if it dies....
do you understand the function of a water pump and how it is built? It has small impellers, driven by the accessory belts.

These impellers are like small motorboat engines driving the coolant through the engine block/radiator.

if it fails while driving what would happen imagine? smile.gif If it's really old and the impellers actually BROKE off, what will happen imagine?

For me, I won't take the risk, RM50+ is a small price to pay for the water pump, change that each time you change your timing belt, e.g. 60k or 80k mileage. smile.gif

QUOTE(fantagero @ Feb 16 2012, 08:30 PM)
let say, if my water pump die after i change the belt, mechanic still have to do the same process to change the pump right? doesn't it cost more?
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This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Feb 17 2012, 09:36 AM
poolcarpet
post Feb 18 2012, 10:04 AM

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Hi all, i just noticed my iswara is lower on one side than the other.... For the rear wheels there is less clearance between wheel and arch on the left side than right side... Is this normal? Or spring koyak?

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Feb 18 2012, 10:04 AM
poolcarpet
post Feb 18 2012, 11:51 PM

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Hi all,

I was doing some carb diy cleaning and decided to try and tune my AF ratio, want it to be leaner as I think it's running rich (got those smelly exhaust, plus FC is not so good) so few questions, been trying to look in internet but can't find much helpful info:

1. The red circle is the AF screw, correct?
2. With AC off idle screw turned out until it doesn't touch the linkage, I tried to tune the AF ratio
3. When the screw is completely removed, the engine still runs -> is this running at fully rich?
4. When I screw in this AF screw, at one point the engine starts to hesitate and want to die off (is this getting too lean, i.e. not enough fuel?)
5. I backed out a bit and then engine RPM seems to be ok around 900 (AC off idle screw still not touching)

Few things I noticed, after a while when I start the engine, the RPM is low (maybe 600) and almost wanted to die off. Does this mean too lean and I need to screw it out?
Without any other changes, meaning as low rpm scenario above, after some driving, the idle RPM shoots up to 1300 or so... Is this normal?

Just trying to do some diy trial and error tuning smile.gif

Also, does anyone know if I can remove that 'protective cap'? so difficult to turn it (I don't have old spark plug lying around) so had to use a pair of pliers - that's where you see all those 'teeth' marks there... smile.gif

Any suggestions/advice from gurus here most appreciated, thanks.

user posted image

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Feb 19 2012, 12:00 AM
poolcarpet
post Feb 20 2012, 10:52 AM

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So no one has any ideas on this? No one DIY tune AF before?? I mess with the screw a bit now idle RPM is 1.2k!!!!! any ideas?

QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Feb 18 2012, 11:51 PM)
Hi all,

I was doing some carb diy cleaning and decided to try and tune my AF ratio, want it to be leaner as I think it's running rich (got those smelly exhaust, plus FC is not so good) so few questions, been trying to look in internet but can't find much helpful info:

1. The red circle is the AF screw, correct?
2. With AC off idle screw turned out until it doesn't touch the linkage, I tried to tune the AF ratio
3. When the screw is completely removed, the engine still runs -> is this running at fully rich?
4. When I screw in this AF screw, at one point the engine starts to hesitate and want to die off (is this getting too lean, i.e. not enough fuel?)
5. I backed out a bit and then engine RPM seems to be ok around 900 (AC off idle screw still not touching)

Few things I noticed, after a while when I start the engine, the RPM is low (maybe 600) and almost wanted to die off. Does this mean too lean and I need to screw it out?
Without any other changes, meaning as low rpm scenario above, after some driving, the idle RPM shoots up to 1300 or so... Is this normal?

Just trying to do some diy trial and error tuning smile.gif

Also, does anyone know if I can remove that 'protective cap'? so difficult to turn it (I don't have old spark plug lying around) so had to use a pair of pliers - that's where you see all those 'teeth' marks there... smile.gif

Any suggestions/advice from gurus here most appreciated, thanks.

user posted image
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poolcarpet
post Feb 21 2012, 04:52 PM

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sounds the same as mine! have you tried tuning the AF? look at my previous posts just recently smile.gif

QUOTE(general_odin @ Feb 21 2012, 04:37 PM)
hi guys, any tips on how to improve fuel economy for 1997 iswara 4G13  ?

my car fuel efficiency is only about 10km/l which is very very very bad and it has not much power

also during idle, exhaust got petrol smell.
advanced the distributor now low end toque is better but no impact on fuel economy.

any tips to improve fuel economy ?
make the fuel air ratio more lean ?

thanks in advance smile.gif
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poolcarpet
post Feb 23 2012, 04:31 PM

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Hi all,

Anyone happened to be interested in an Iswara center arm rest? Just drop into the middle section between the seats.

I bought it few months ago, but felt it was getting in the way of my left arm so removed it, been sitting in the boot only.

Let me know (PM) if interested, can let it go for RM20 but self collect around KL/PJ smile.gif

user posted image user posted image

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Feb 23 2012, 04:32 PM
poolcarpet
post Feb 24 2012, 12:52 PM

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lower arm kaput won't be bouncy... you will hear very loud sound coming from the front tyres esp when you go over bumps, and it will feel wobbly.

did you check your tire pressure? maybe overinflated?



QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Feb 24 2012, 12:26 PM)
Greetings seefuz .... Just a quick question smile.gif

I've recently changed all 4 coil springs ( APM perfomax ) but absorber running on Kayaba Oil ( all 4 changed same time with spring ).

Now the front is more bouncy than rear..

Is that caused by not proper suspension setup or my lower arm kaput edi?
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poolcarpet
post Feb 24 2012, 01:15 PM

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better check your lower arm then...

ori lower arm should be around RM300 per pair, add on maybe RM20-50 for labor and you're looking at RM350 or so... smile.gif


QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Feb 24 2012, 01:00 PM)
I hear sounds coming from front tyres.... but not so loud... n sometimes abit wobbly...

im using d stock 13 inch rim... with pressure 220 front and 215 rear..

more lower and d cornering will be bad sad.gif ...
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poolcarpet
post Feb 24 2012, 02:11 PM

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per pair... RM150 each. this is ori part pricing, i don't know about other 'oem' parts.... cause i try to use ori parts whenever possible smile.gif

QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Feb 24 2012, 01:49 PM)
300+ ?? dayumn!!!.. koyak la ini macam sad.gif sad.gif
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poolcarpet
post Feb 24 2012, 02:57 PM

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Prob wrong place to ask because this thread is for classic Saga/Iswara smile.gif

but to answer your question, yes, when you go downhill and rpm shoots up to 4000, it's the CVT in action. I have CVT equipped cars and they behave exactly the same way. Similarly when you are driving at constant speed, and you go uphill, you will notice your RPM going up while speed remains the same.

It's NOT a problem, it's just the way CVT works - read up more here -> http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cvt.htm

QUOTE(pjy1988 @ Feb 24 2012, 02:25 PM)
Hello..im new here..just bought a saga 1.6flx se..tomorrow going to send my car to the nearest service center to service my car..

Before go i have a question that i wish to ask u all.
Did you all encounter before that during downhill drive,the rpm will shoot up very high and the car speed still maintaining at 60km/h??

Example: speed 60km/h but the rpm hit 4000 already ..is this cvt problem??
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Added on February 24, 2012, 3:09 pmThere is nothing wrong, that's downshifting done by the CVT, as CVT doesn't really have any fixed gears, when you go downhill and uphill, the 'gears' will change such that RPM is higher while speed remains, this is so that you have the power to go uphill or engine braking when going downhill.

QUOTE(pjy1988 @ Feb 24 2012, 02:34 PM)
I change to L gear also hitting 4000rpm
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This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Feb 24 2012, 03:09 PM

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