QUOTE(Skylinestar @ Feb 27 2022, 03:25 PM)
Here's the electrical connection coming out from my bathroom wall. What's the best way to connect to my heater, yet water proof? Is there anything like a waterproof in-line splice?
Prefer not to drill any hole to my tiles.
Does this type of flexible hose greatly reduce the water supply pressure/flow? It's normally use for hand shower outlet. Therefore I'm not sure. I plan to use this because this is the only type of flexible non-conductive hose that I can find.
If it cannot reach the heater's terminal block then you either splice it properly (within the heater casing itself, or if it comes out as a socket use the centon connector).
No, if you use proper HOKAH flexihose.
Yes, if u use those china made cheapo chrome with bicycle tube inside. Those bicycle tube material exploded whilst I was watching TV.
QUOTE(lacmac @ Feb 27 2022, 04:15 PM)
I appreciate all the advice I have been given, I'm not trying to go against local regulations. I was mealy asking why you would install the special CENTON Connector which comes together with a 1 meter 4mm diameter cable from Fajar when the wires in the unit are 2.5mm and the wires which run from your DB are also 2.5mm.
I spoke Centon Malaysia and they said its OK if the wires from your DB box is 2.5mm as long as you fit the 4mm Centon connector, as this will meet the regulations.
I contacted Suruhanjaya Tenaga with regard to this, no reply.
The 4mm is worst case scenario as some 3 storey mansions already running close to one roll of wire to reach from DB box at ground level to the far end bathroom. So if those people fitted a 2.5mm connection - and there is a problem with it (V drop or overheat) liability wise the 4mm is not going to be the cause of it as it follow proper regulation.
And, from product perspective a meter of 4mm is not expensive. It eliminate the problem of having two part numbers.
Also, 4mm flexicord has enough safety margin not to overheat. 2.5mm is running close to redline for 4800W heater. That's assuming ALL the strands are intact. If chopped just one strand during stripping it might be redline already.
QUOTE(Skylinestar @ Feb 27 2022, 06:17 PM)
you say direct, but the wires from the wall are too short. need to splice with the wires that come out from the heater.
Position the heater rear casing to fit the wires coming out of the wall.
Connect with appropriate terminal block (yes the Malaysian variety with two screws) of at least 30A rated if want to save the RM10 of 32A Wago 221-412 x qty 3pcs.
https://my.element14.com/wago/221-412/termi...2pos/dp/2534732 these are 32A rated UL listed
Remember to install a proper 10mA RCD. Recommend either ABB or Hager because these are VI type. Anything cheap are all VD type RCD.
You only have one life per human, you are not cats.
This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 1 2022, 03:41 AM