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 °° LYN Honda CRZ Hybrid Owners Thread V1 °°, The Hot-Hatch Hybrid

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MeToo
post Apr 24 2012, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(Kalist0 @ Apr 23 2012, 11:07 PM)
sorry to disappoint you mate, but my SA told me no extra features but only extra money  thumbup.gif . CVT would cost around 5-6k more. just go to your showroom and give them RM1k. wait for your car and enjoice.  rclxm9.gif


Added on April 23, 2012, 11:10 pm

looks like you are an owner. just curious, how's the FC so far? from what i gather people have been getting rm0.11-0.13/km. for me i think even the sportsmode is  more efficient then alot of the cars out there  smile.gif
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Shrug. The Serdang Honda where I test drove the CRZ told me the Auto will come with touch screen HU.

Sports mode is the -only- way to drive the car... I switched to Econs mode and nearly fell asleep...
So if econs mode save petrol then it shouldnt be a selling point... maybe if I let my granny drive she will be able to accept econs mode tongue.gif

QUOTE(squall_kay @ Apr 24 2012, 09:08 AM)
change it to KN will void warranty?
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No problem de. Just change back when u need to claim something.

QUOTE(Nitrous @ Apr 23 2012, 11:05 PM)
Need to clarify, it is the IMA battery pack, not the 12V battery.
Ahhh ok ok that explains it!


DaBestOne
post Apr 24 2012, 12:10 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Apr 24 2012, 10:21 AM)

Sports mode is the -only- way to drive the car... I switched to Econs mode and nearly fell asleep...
So if econs mode save petrol then it shouldnt be a selling point... maybe if I let my granny drive she will be able to accept econs mode tongue.gif

*
Yea hybrid-petrol saving is definitely a selling point.... hmmm, maybe I should go test drive and feel it out myself hmm.gif
MeToo
post Apr 24 2012, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Apr 24 2012, 12:10 PM)
Yea hybrid-petrol saving is definitely a selling point.... hmmm, maybe I should go test drive and feel it out myself hmm.gif
*
Um... well I have to clarify, maybe CRZ is not that bad power wise in Standard mode... but I went there driving a slightly more powerful car so the comparison was bad. Then again, switchign from Econs to PWR mode.. (skipping the standard) you can really FEEL the difference.
turbocharged
post Apr 24 2012, 12:29 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Apr 24 2012, 12:23 PM)
Um... well I have to clarify, maybe CRZ is not that bad power wise in Standard mode... but I went there driving a slightly more powerful car so the comparison was bad. Then again, switchign from Econs to PWR mode.. (skipping the standard) you can really FEEL the difference.
*
why u drove 3.5 liter car there la doh.gif
drewn123
post Apr 24 2012, 03:04 PM

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I was contemplating between getting the AUTO or MANUAL... years of driving my B16B (M) makes me wish for an AUTO.. LOL

If AUTO CRZ comes with 2Din HU with Reverse Camera, I'll take the AUTO in a heartbeat. Taking Manual if the price increase doesn't justify only a change of Transmission without any changes in interior or etc......
Kalist0
post Apr 24 2012, 03:12 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Apr 24 2012, 11:21 AM)
Shrug. The Serdang Honda where I test drove the CRZ told me the Auto will come with touch screen HU.

Sports mode is the -only- way to drive the car... I switched to Econs mode and nearly fell asleep...
So if econs mode save petrol then it shouldnt be a selling point... maybe if I let my granny drive she will be able to accept econs mode tongue.gif
No problem de. Just change back when u need to claim something.
Ahhh ok ok that explains it!
*
Really? Then that would be a +1 since ill be changin to a touchscreen anyway. Now easier for installing camera. Not putting any hopes though, all sanin penang said no difference in specs. Hopefully they come with sunroof too brows.gif


Added on April 24, 2012, 3:17 pm
QUOTE(MeToo @ Apr 24 2012, 01:23 PM)
Um... well I have to clarify, maybe CRZ is not that bad power wise in Standard mode... but I went there driving a slightly more powerful car so the comparison was bad. Then again, switchign from Econs to PWR mode.. (skipping the standard) you can really FEEL the difference.
*
My guess is u driving 2.0? When i test drove it felt similar like a 1.8 but higher end lose due to ciplak horsepower lol.


This post has been edited by Kalist0: Apr 24 2012, 03:17 PM
MeToo
post Apr 24 2012, 04:03 PM

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QUOTE(turbocharged @ Apr 24 2012, 12:29 PM)
why u drove 3.5 liter car there la doh.gif
*
Damn u stalker go away! shoo shoo! mad.gif
efisherman
post Apr 24 2012, 04:57 PM

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My milage still <1000km. Should I try not to go > 4000 rpm?
Nitrous
post Apr 24 2012, 06:08 PM

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QUOTE(efisherman @ Apr 24 2012, 04:57 PM)
My milage still <1000km. Should I try not to go > 4000 rpm?
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I didn't wait... depends on your love to your car...
The engine has already been revved to the max at the factory, and also at the port during delivery, probably during inspection, and also during the first 50km of its life by the salesman... brows.gif
efisherman
post Apr 24 2012, 06:21 PM

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QUOTE(Nitrous @ Apr 24 2012, 06:08 PM)
I didn't wait... depends on your love to your car...
The engine has already been revved to the max at the factory, and also at the port during delivery, probably during inspection, and also during the first 50km of its life by the salesman...  brows.gif
*
If you push it too maximum, what will be the side effect in long term? Will engine become noisy or draggy?
kangyoon20
post Apr 24 2012, 10:01 PM

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QUOTE(squall_kay @ Apr 24 2012, 09:08 AM)
change it to KN will void warranty?
*
No, K&N actually issue a notice to all Car Manufacturer in US that their products will not void any car warranty.
In US they even bring this case to the court against those Manufacturer who void the customer car warranty.

But here in Malaysia, your service center is the one who say void or not void, court here will not bother. doh.gif
So normally best practice is to consult with your service center,
or much easier like other bros here said,
change back to original when you want to claim any warranty. nod.gif

QUOTE(Nitrous @ Apr 24 2012, 09:51 AM)
Yes, I have one. I can't give the figures to you in RM/km, since I use RON97 (fluctuating price). I m averaging on 12.8km/L, much lower compared to KangYoon, as mine is still "running in" my car. I only have 700km on my ODO now. My lead foot doesn't help either  biggrin.gif
Any change to the combustion process of an engine can potentially void the warranty. However, if you get the drop in filter, u can swap it out before any warranty claims....
*
after 1000km u will feel much smoother ride rclxms.gif

QUOTE(drewn123 @ Apr 24 2012, 03:04 PM)
I was contemplating between getting the AUTO or MANUAL... years of driving my B16B (M) makes me wish for an AUTO.. LOL

If AUTO CRZ comes with 2Din HU with Reverse Camera, I'll take the AUTO in a heartbeat. Taking Manual if the price increase doesn't justify only a change of Transmission without any changes in interior or  etc......
*

i still keeping my B16A (M)..wanna go hardcore use the B, wan take girl go pak toh use the Z flex.gif


QUOTE(efisherman @ Apr 24 2012, 04:57 PM)
My milage still <1000km. Should I try not to go > 4000 rpm?
*
QUOTE(Nitrous @ Apr 24 2012, 06:08 PM)
I didn't wait... depends on your love to your car...
The engine has already been revved to the max at the factory, and also at the port during delivery, probably during inspection, and also during the first 50km of its life by the salesman...  brows.gif
*
yeah, nowadays new car new engine already run-in out from the factory.
but i think additional run-in in actual driving condition especially in hot humid weather in Malaysia will be necessary,
other parts like tire should also do the proper run-in to ensure it will perform its best with longest lifespan! rolleyes.gif
drewn123
post Apr 24 2012, 10:12 PM

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Kangyoon : yeah, dun feel like selling my B16B.... after so many mods, sayang lo. Hehe, getting a fresh paint job and will post for sell in every forum.

CRZ is deliciously tempting for me to mod it.... Whereas the ek need serious moolah if wanna go extreme
efisherman
post Apr 25 2012, 09:27 AM

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Seriously when you noticed you in a serious jam that will cause you jammed for over 30mins and more. Better use Econ mode. You can see the FC difference between normal and Econ by then..
kccy2020
post Apr 25 2012, 09:55 AM

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biggrin.gif hi guys, i'm new to this post and planning to get this car.
But I still prefer to wait for Auto launch 1st. lolx
MetalMic
post Apr 27 2012, 09:36 AM

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QUOTE(efisherman @ Apr 24 2012, 06:21 PM)
If you push it too maximum, what will be the side effect in long term? Will engine become noisy or draggy?
*
In fact you might feel that the engine will be smoother and more responsive after that. The will be some excess metal bits from the block during the run in period, that is why mineral oil is recommended for at least the first 10,000km.

I've seen a few hp difference between cars that was pushed hard and cars that was "cared" when it was still new.

But of course its not recommended to be pushing your engine hard to the redline during the entire life of your car, this will definitely reduce the lifespans of your engine internal parts and most common problem due to prolong engine whacking will be missing engine oil (makan minyak hitam)
efisherman
post Apr 27 2012, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(MetalMic @ Apr 27 2012, 09:36 AM)
In fact you might feel that the engine will be smoother and more responsive after that. The will be some excess metal bits from the block during the run in period, that is why mineral oil is recommended for at least the first 10,000km.

I've seen a few hp difference between cars that was pushed hard and cars that was "cared" when it was still new.

But of course its not recommended to be pushing your engine hard to the redline during the entire life of your car, this will definitely reduce the lifespans of your engine internal parts and most common problem due to prolong engine whacking will be missing engine oil (makan minyak hitam)
*
Oh, thank you for the info. Btw, what is 'mineral oil' ? Engine oil?
tehoice
post Apr 27 2012, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(efisherman @ Apr 27 2012, 11:59 AM)
Oh, thank you for the info. Btw, what is 'mineral oil' ? Engine oil?
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mineral oil is the lowest grade of engine oil, mineral oil - semi-sync and fully synthetic.
MetalMic
post Apr 27 2012, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(tehoice @ Apr 27 2012, 12:09 PM)
mineral oil is the lowest grade of engine oil, mineral oil - semi-sync and fully synthetic.
*
Or commonly known as "normal" engine oil.
Also if you can find those hard disk grade magnet, it would be useful to attached it to the oil filter to help attract the shaved metal bits. smile.gif
efisherman
post Apr 27 2012, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(MetalMic @ Apr 27 2012, 03:33 PM)
Or commonly known as "normal" engine oil.
Also if you can find those hard disk grade magnet, it would be useful to attached it to the oil filter to help attract the shaved metal bits. smile.gif
*
lol, can snap some pics to hv a look how it looks like?
MetalMic
post Apr 28 2012, 05:34 PM

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QUOTE(efisherman @ Apr 27 2012, 04:17 PM)
lol, can snap some pics to hv a look how it looks like?
*
This is how it looks like smile.gif

http://stf***overflow.blogspot.com/2011/05...isk-magnet.html


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