i know AEM is better...but why arent u looking into haltech... more tuners here than the AEM iinm

rechip? try n get crome... see if u can find it in ur area...its basically a custom chip...on the same level as the old Hondata S100. requires dyno tuning. crome isnt expensive... cheaper (and better!) than VAFC in fact.. Avantech doing it for RM550 which includes tuning and 1 hour dyno rental..VAFC going for about 6xx for hardware only...not inclusive tuning and installation somemore. with crome u can set ur a/f, ignition timing , cut offs, VTEC point, launch control, shift light, etc. VAFC only ur a/f and VTEC point.. n with my recent experience, ignition timing is IMPORTANT!

VTEC @ 5krpm? too early imho... have been tested over a decade ago tht VTEC too early and u lose power. most set it at 5.5k....

high cams?? wat cams EXACTLY? brand n model? if type r cams theyre not considered high cams.. those are stock cams...n usually the higher the cams, the later the powerband kicks in... so setting VTEC early kinda pointless.

share ur CAI pls? wanna see wat it looks like.

using mivec is better to VAFC? meaning?

VTEC controller is pointless la... get VAFC better.. u can set ur a/f ratio and also control ur VTEC points... but if u get crome.. no need to get both....most people i know with VTEC controllers or VAFC, dun bother changing their VTEC point...i used to have a VAFC oso... never bothered... now im on crome.. but seriously... try n get Crome

honda jazz block?? simply put... B series only with B series... jazz is NOT B series.. plus.. ur 1.6 n jazz is 1.5 n 1.4... why wanna downgrade? wat u can do is put the older CRV blocks.. aka B20 which is 2.0. not exactly plug n play...but its a simple job that practically all honda builders know how to do

2.0" piping? most B16A runs 2.3" nowadays... but 2.0 is fine.. i used to have 2.0 in my ex-B16A Small VTEC EF (stock engine)... can still whoop a number of healthy Big VTEC cars ehheheh


Honda has many types of LSD gearboxes.. and the LSD itself is different in type r and non type r...

again... which gearbox?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Nov 16 2012, 01:35 PM

B16B is S4C gearbox...good gearbox.

Crome is basically a custom chip like i said above.. try n find it... its much better than having VAFC....if cannot get in ur area, try n get e-manage with ignition harness. link to crome website: http://www.tunewithcrome.com/ (and its CROME.....no 'H' ). i switched from VAFC to crome and gained 15whp and 2kg torque.. mainly because of the ignition tuning which i desperately needed for my high comp engine...the a/f setting oso more fine tuned.

but the best to get is still Hondata S300 la hehehe

VTEC/MIVEC controller... no need la... kasi buang...

toda cams?? which toda?? if toda A, then its basically the same as Type R.. try n find out exactly wat cams u have.. ur the owner of the car... its a good idea that u know whats in it.... i hate not knowing whats in my car...

clutch... exedy 4 puck racing clutch like i bought the other day is bang for buck... here its RM950 brand new for clutch n pressure plate...but if u on tight budget.. stock clutch is fine.. about RM650 brand new...or u can try n find 2nd hand ones.... like on mudah i saw this ad a good set of exedy 3 puck with spoon flywheel for 1.2k....standard type r clutch is RM400 2nd hand....but type r clutch and stock B series clutch is the same...flywheel only different.

where u got ur CAI n how much?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Nov 16 2012, 01:53 PM

S4C Helical LSD is 1 way or 1.5 way LSD.. cant remember.. basically semi lock... 4.4 is the final drive. ONLY the 98spec Integra Type R came with the 4.785 Final Drive in the S80 N3E gearbox. basically the higher the final drive the closer ur gear ratios are.

Toda B are pretty decent... mild..but still good enough.. got a friend with 1.8 B18C Type R using those cams pushing 2xx whp.


n congrats to u n ur wife!

195/55 is fine....

advise to upgrade suspension though

i usually recommend GAB SS...i think theyre the best bang for buck around

brand new
1 year warranty
monotube
can change spring rates within the 1st week if u not happy
easily available
serviceable

if u havent bought it... dont.

that car is way too old and parts are difficult to find.. the EF9 transplant isnt a straight forward one for the SB chassis.

the oldest honda to get would be the EF chassis.. n even that parts are getting expensive coz the amount is dwindling.

wheeeeeee!!!! today banshee siap! the leaky tein aint leaky no more!!!

BUT....cant pickup today coz ill be in PD

send back to ur mechanic and make sure he finds n solves the problem... obviously theres something isnt right with the installation or the parts he supplied isnt up to par

but yeah...does sound like a driveshaft problem

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Added on November 18, 2012, 9:28 pmlong drive back to where? kelantan?

y u no get it retuned first?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Nov 18 2012, 09:28 PM

btw...ur hardened mounts wat brand? or u silicon?

n all mounts or only a few?

got meh??? ive never had that...

u full lock LSD is it?

RM150?? mana mana?? i oso want la like this hahahahha

n is it for ALL mounts or just a few selected ones?

im considering the hardrace full set...but thats gonna a while more

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Nov 21 2012, 05:03 PM

i see...thanks... seems have to remove the bolts to install...

worse still, im unsure wat mount im using at the rear...coz changed to DC2-R xmember... so dunno if they re-used my old mount or just used the xmember mount

currently considering getting a rear mount and making it soft pu for RM180 or put silicon in it.

ive been driving banshee around this entire week... so abit more feedback on the prothane shifter bushings..

unfortunately since im running in the clutch...shifting is max at 4k rpm.

shifting is definitely stiffer and notchier... feels much better too...even when shifting fast...

as for vibrations... on the shifter itself, the vibrations are pretty strong... but on the knob.. its not as bad... posibbily due to the 4" shifter extender im using.

BOTH oso DONT do....

y wanna downgrade ur cams? dun waste money/time la... already got use unless u wanna upgrade to Toda C/C2/D/Killer Cams...just upgrade B16B pistons will do.

for rims... dun waste time with the TE37V...ull regret the low offset... get at max +35 offset... my advise... stick to ur current rims and get Federal 595 RSR or R888 or KU36 etc.... dun even get the 595 evo... alot complain theyre crap... actually alot say the only good federal street tyre is the RSR...even that oso got people complain sidewall soft like shit.

as for which to go for first... of course tires la... safety first.

b16b piston better than ur cam? where u keep hearing these kinda things man?? u pair b16b piston with ur cam then itll be damn nice ler....

ur on b16a...s90tb may be abit too big... can use....but worry abit too big...better to get type r intake manifold and tb...not too big for ur b16a with high cams.

RSR is actually not semi slick... theyre street tires...but theyre very gripy until world time attack puts it in semi slick... and theyre supposed to be damn good in the wet...federal semi slicks is the FZ201..

food for thought... i have a friend... with b18c...he has b16b pistons and toda b cams... pushing over 200whp...his 1.8 has more power than my higher compression 2.0....mainly coz of the cams... so u think la u wanna downgrade the cams or not.

in that case, yes, definitely. b16b pistons give higher compression compared to stock b16a pistons

wat seats are those? n how good do they hold u in corners?

mana lu hilang?





i just noticed that those who are currently really active in this thread are all using EGs... HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH... all oso 4 door EGs except me using hatch heheheh

those are definitely NOT EF8 seats... theyre not ANY EF seats afaik...

stainless steel is ok la... but not much difference la... more towards cantik only mostly.. mild steel is ok oso... cheaper....

go buy stock ek9 or dc2-r muffler la... sure senyap u wan i can get cheap cheap...around RM100 iinm...gotta check again.