from the comments, its because using a large aperture like f/1.8 and f/1.4? if smaller aperture like f/3.5 then it will remain sharp 

If you recompose in the same plane, then it might work. However if your subject moves slightly front or back, your shot is screwed. Especially when shooting at f1.4.

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Added on September 21, 2011, 9:35 pm
It won't be a big deal if all you do is just upload your shots to facebook and share...nobody will notice the difference(nose is sharper than the eye)...

what can i see.. even at ISO100, the image seem smears?

Daylight most camera will do fine, even phone camera.

The ISO range for this "1" camera is 100-3200, expandable to 6400.
I watch some videos, I think the unique part is the shooting modes, tracking, focusing? But I'm not sure why the delay during/after capture, and so on, feels like compact cam performance? Hope its not so.

Well, maybe I should put "generally", you may see many picture take outdoor in daylight. You may not be able to tell if it's DSLR (with "normal" lens), point and shoot (high end or low end), Handphone camera, etc easily. Sometimes, you can even see nice quality photos taken with point and shoot, while you can also see poor quality pictures taken with DSLR.

But how many people do 1:1 pixel mapping? When you post up to internet, or even print out; For daylight photo, you can hardly tell the difference, unless you know the camera very well. In broad daylight outdoor, even handphone camera can do wonders.

why not just shoot with ur current DSLR and crop it urself 2.7x in photoshop later... same kan? =_______________________=

Looking at the prices in UK and US, the V1 doesn't seem to be a value for $ camera..  

Maybe the only impressive thing is the fast focus in video mode.

Well depends on what macro you are shooting.

If you are using the sp90 on a crop body you'd have to stand about one meter away from the subject..with the j1.. How far do you need to stand? Could you even see that tiny spider from the place you are standing?

Not a macro photographer though. Maybe macro enthusiasts can counter my points.

If the subject is to be 1:1, the distance of the subject to the sensor will always be the same regardless of what sensor size used. For a lens to function, the flange distance has to be the same on any system. This is where the adapter for a non-native lens comes into play - to provide enough flange distance for the lens to function at MFD all the way to infinity. So, will not effect on 'How far do you need to stand? Could you even see that tiny spider from the place you are standing?'. In fact, at 1:1, the subject, in this case, the spider will be able to fill the frame much easier than with a larger sensor.

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Added on September 23, 2011, 9:20 am

The standard even for APS-C sensors out there is above 16MPs these days. And full frames are hovering in the 24MPs range. There is PLENTY of leeway for cropping on a full sized sensor compared to a 2.7x crop.

"60fps" and "1200fps", I wonder how it affects/counts for shutter count. How does it works for these mirrorless?
It did mentioned "eletronically", I suppose it's not related to shutter count as in 1fps = 1 shutter?

Not sure it's under movie mode; I remember it says capturing stills at 60fps and you can merge them for movement or something, jpeg movie.
I suppose it doesn't affect shutter count, just curious
I suppose so too, but the way they put the "60fps" and "1200fps" is kind of confusing as it doesn't put like video mode (e.g. 720p @ 60fps; instead it talk about capturing every moment as if capturing photo; I guess some sort of marketing tactic or something to make people "WOW" when others are doing 12fps. You know, people who see will say, this camera can do 60fps... although, the actual should be 10fps.

Looking for Nikon 300mm f/2.8G ED AF-S VR II and not many shops carry this lens, siapa ada contact?

Usually the 'macro' term in tele lenses are just marketing words. They are about 1:4 magnification only. Not a macro per se.

If it's only these 2 you have your eyes on, I suggest you go for the nikkor. But I'm not sure if I heard of 55-300, I'd heard of 55-200, 75-300 or 70-300 though. What do I know right? I'm not a nikon user.

Actually, you missed my point.. The main subject was to Syncing regarding the macro function. Not that I care what lenses are from what range to what range. Hence the statement saying that I "wasn't sure". And now, I do know since Andy214 mentioned about it

not really... newer lens all have AF one so no need worry about that.

I scared cold leh. lol
ooo nice... just want some advice for photography there
Any lens you would recommend for there? Currently still stuck with 18-55 and I wanna see if I can buy a lens prior to the trip

I believe Yannick could be helpful. Give him a call and see if he could sort that out for you. If you don't know where to get his contact, google "Yannick Camera"
Face hidden in the shadow. Given if it's me, I will try to avoid and let the light fall on the face instead.
Given the list, I would say D5100. Unless you could topup from D90 to go for D7000. Well, again depending on what you're looking for in photography. Basically D5100 and D7000 using the same sensor and chipset, just different in terms of controls and ergonomic.
Both the body and body grip are kinda robust. Unless you "gasak kuat enough" enough to spoil it

im amazed with the d7k tracking now

probably getting dark.
i tracked pro tennis fine with 70-300VR on non-cross sensor in daylight