Planted Aquarium V7, not just fish with water anymore
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 Jan 21 2012, 04:20 PM
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#201
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006 
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i guess better take out the dead snail if possible ?
its corpse will "disintegrate" (can't think of a suitable word) faster compare to other fauna .. and if too many dead snail, ammonia will increase after that  This post has been edited by ciohbu: Jan 21 2012, 04:22 PM |
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Jan 30 2012, 12:06 PM
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#202
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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QUOTE(Jamien @ Jan 30 2012, 01:08 AM) I saw what's called an "orange lobster" in pet lovers center at SS2 mall. Since sometimes these shops seem to tag funny names on animals, can someone help me ID them? care sheets and what not please? try to see they are normal crayfish or CPO type, normal crayfish can grow larger than 2inch i think  QUOTE English name: Orange Dwarf Crayfish Scientific name: Cambarellus Patzcuarensis (var. orange ) Origin: Mexico, Lago de Pátzcuaro Size male/female: 4 cm / 3 cm or 1.6 inch / 1.2 inch Water temperature: 10 - 26 °C Water Parameters: pH 6.7 - 8.5 Behaviour: a bit agressive, especially males to males Difficulty: easy Remarks: Take care of enough hiding places like caves and add leaves. Many adults can live in a 10 gallon tank. The number of hiding places should always outnumber the crayfish to minimize fighting. Babies require many hiding places or they will cannibalize each other during molts. Adults are best kept in separate tanks or in pairs of at least 10 gallons. Better using gravel or sands as the aquariums substrate and kept on its own or in an aquarium with many hiding places. Most all crayfish will cannibalize conspecifics if given the opportunity.If not given sufficient space or hiding places, young will cannibalize each other, mostly during molts. Feeding: Crayfish are scavengers, omnivore and detrivore, they will eat whatever they find. There are many commercially avail foods for invertebrates or plain old shrimp pellets & flake food is fine. Crayfish will often eat their own molts to regain otherwise lost nutrients. |
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Jan 30 2012, 09:20 PM
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#203
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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i prefer go city corp straight...can get after 5/10min,
if lfs, need to wait 1 or 2 days + they charge more unless u know any lfs that can refill co2 on the spot  |
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Feb 5 2012, 12:13 PM
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#204
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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QUOTE(cute_miao @ Feb 5 2012, 12:10 PM) any is selling their 2f fish cabinet? or where to buy in kl? i think most planted lfs can custom made for you please advise o~!  |
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Feb 5 2012, 07:47 PM
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#205
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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QUOTE(booby @ Feb 5 2012, 03:06 PM) eh want ask u all, usually wat u all put inside ur tank filter one ah? i usually put sponge and this i got sponge, ceramic ring and seachem purigen in my filterbut this ceramic thing dam dirty ady want throw and buy new one. should i get anything else good for platned tank? want go shopping ady.  revamped my tank. some ceramic ring come with uneven surface (lots of holes), some smooth like urs, usually we just rise with old tank water but not clean it 100% till totally sparkling clean, we wanna keep some bacteria, uneven surface provide more effective area to cultivate bacteria p/s : dun ever wash matured ceramic ring with clean pipe water some brand got specific ceramic ring to raise or lower PH, so read carefully b4 u buy This post has been edited by ciohbu: Feb 5 2012, 07:48 PM |
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Feb 7 2012, 07:29 AM
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#206
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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QUOTE(LuQEE @ Feb 7 2012, 01:26 AM) QUOTE 1) so i heard about those PH, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite level, why should i buy the test kits? Which one i should buy first and where? and how much do they cost each? and what brand should i look for? planning to get meself a batch of RCS so do i need to buy all of them or which one (the test kits)? PH and GH kit if u wanna keep shrimp, should be around RM30 depending on brands, avoid API for KH/GH test kit shouldn't worry bout ammonia after ur full cycle and as long as u dun overfeed, also dun let any death shrimp/fish decompose in tank, dun disturb ur substrate too much QUOTE 2) do i need to get a thermometer? no heater required right? if u wanna know the temp of ur tank.. get a thermometer no need heater unless ur water is under 20C  QUOTE 3) i already set up myself a 5g plastic tank to be used as my first try planted aquarium for a betta tank, got meself a few aquatic plants, some small soil pebbles( not sure the type and name), a filtration system and still doing a full tank recycle process thing and adding my bettas into it(bettas seemed to be happy with the new bigger space and no side effect even though havent finished the full cycle) and install a submersible light rated 16w with white-ish and blueish somesort of flickering light...is it good for the plants? cant see those small bubbles on the plant leaves, is this means that they cant do photosynthesis? do i need to buy another extra lighting of the same kind or totally change to a new one? if change lighting, what would you recommend since i got myself a small tank. 4) So if i was intending to keep a school of RCS army, i heard they (invertebrates) can die even with a little bit of copper. how do you detect copper in water? im planning of using 10-20% of dechlorinate tap water (for minerals) + 80-90% RO water (to prevent copper poisoning), is this ok for RCS? how do you get rid of those copper in water? do you use heavy duty anti-chlorine? can recommend me one? They dont require heater right the RCS? 5) Im still looking for any kind of moss(spiky,java,flame etc) for my tank, anyone know where i can find them in Subang Jaya? already go round and round in Subang and all moss are sold out >.< . how much do they cost and how large the quantity is it? also i notice riccia is a very cool plant, greenish(almost all aquatic looks like that lol) colour and looks like an underwater grass field...do you think i can plant those in my 5g? heard they need CO2 injector, afraid it will kill the shrimps in the process and putting extra water pump might make the flow water a bit rough for my schools of bettas. advice? 5G with betta and RCS ? not a good idea i guess..  light and co2 will depends on what plants u have.. generally moss will do fine under normal aquarium light and no co2 riccia, in my personal experience.. its too messy and too troublesome to take care of  |
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Feb 10 2012, 07:56 AM
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#207
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QUOTE(kimimaro_kun @ Feb 10 2012, 12:44 AM) meaning, i dont need to install extra 2 check valve?? i think boss sisaiko means no need to install separate check valve and bubble counter |
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Feb 15 2012, 02:45 PM
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#208
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QUOTE(yweising @ Feb 15 2012, 02:43 PM) any1 knows where to buy the NO-PLANARIA? try check NA subang |
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Feb 16 2012, 07:58 AM
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#209
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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sharing a post from UK
his shrimp population (£300-400 worth of livestock) got wide off after adding some new plants, found it was some poisoning, so pls read thru ya i am not sure where malaysia lfs import their plants ... might be from singapore too..   the reason are: QUOTE I can confirm the following information has been provided by the farms in Singapore who supply plants to the UK market. This information has been consulted on with respected persons in the UK industry. Phytosanitary certification requires the plants to be free of pests and disease prior to export to the receiving country. The methods applied are as follows – information supplied per farm: Our premium plants are dipped in BUPROFEZIN (0.01%) & TRICHLORFON (0.08%) for the duration 120 minutes Our primary supplier for standard plants dip in IMIDACLOPRID 18.3% V/V (0.005%) for 45 minutes Our second supplier for standard plant range dip in IMIDACLOPRID 18.3% V/V (0.005%) for 60 minutes ========================= TRICHLORFON <http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chemical.jsp?Rec_Id=PC33346> Chlorophos insecticides are highly toxic organophosphate insecticides and cause damage to the nervous system ("anti-cholinesterase compounds"), so you would expect to see shrimp "staggering" about before dying. They are non-systemic, so shouldn't end up in the plant. BUPROFEZIN It is an "Insect Growth Regulator", which means that it would stop crustaceans shedding their skins (it interrupts chitin synthesis), so it could cause death in the longer term. IMIDACLOPRID, is a systemic, neonicotinoid insecticide and would remain in the plant for some time. Neonicotonoids are suspected of causing a lot of the decline of insect biodiversity in Europe and the USA, and a really not the sort of compound you would want anywhere near your shrimps. IMIDACLOPRID has low toxicity to fish, but is highly toxic to crustaceans, in conc. as low as 1 ppb for Mysis shrimp. "Products containing imidacloprid may be very toxic to aquatic invertebrates." "The half-life in water is much greater than 31 days at pH 5, 7 and 9". from Kidd & James (1991) The Agrochemicals Handbook, Third Edition. Royal Society of Chemistry Information Services, Cambridge, UK. precaution if u adding new plants QUOTE Our recommendation will be that all plants from ANY supplier should be quarantined in Alkaline water for a minimum of 2 hours to 48 hours, then finally rinsed in tap water prior to addition to any tank with livestock present. Please note - we say a MINIMUM of 2 hours and suggest that 48 hours be better... don't forget to perform water changes when appropriate. Alkaline water can be easily made using caustic soda or hydrogen peroxide mixed with water until the pH reaches 8.5. Remember to wash your plants in tap water as a final preparation before they go in your tank. http://www.plantedtanks.co.uk/plants-and-pesticides-17-w.asp http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19481 |
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Feb 16 2012, 08:56 AM
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#210
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QUOTE(weijie @ Feb 16 2012, 08:38 AM) it is very dangerous if you are buying the plants directly from commercial farm. i think lfs get stock from commercial farm too.. so its better that we clean them properly although it is cheaper, but dont take the risk. Whole population might wipe out over night. |
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Feb 16 2012, 11:27 AM
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#211
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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aquashop HC really failed.. hahaa
seldom buy plants from him nowadays, but i do stock up my shrimp food / mineral from there |
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Feb 16 2012, 12:55 PM
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#212
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QUOTE(LuQEE @ Feb 16 2012, 12:47 PM) im very curious on where you guys buy those feeder/ghost/glass shrimps? those uncle uncle fish shop usually got one.. rm2 can get whole bag.. hahaaalready pusing all subang and they say "no stock" and "we dont sell them anymore" |
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Feb 17 2012, 04:07 PM
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#213
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wohh..400w > <
will burn a hole in ur wallet too.. when electric bill come.. lolx |
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Feb 24 2012, 09:28 PM
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#214
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2,104 posts Joined: Oct 2006
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everyone should straight buy merc or bmw
just kidding .. hahaha its up to your budget lo... cheap car if maintain nicely will last very long too, of course u can't compare the quality to merc or bmw lo... u get for what u pay so far i am happy with my RM100++ canister |
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Feb 28 2012, 11:50 AM
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#215
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Should check for leaking as my 1liter aluminum tank can last me 6 months ++ ...around 2 or 3 bps for 8hrs..co2 indicator around yellowish green
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Feb 29 2012, 07:09 AM
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#216
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as per bro ProX ... normal air pump wont able to diffuse thru co2 diffuser
why we use air pump with air stone ? its not bcoz all the bubble coming out from air stone are oxygen, but we need all the bubbles to cause disturbance/movement on the water surface so that oxygen from the air can mix in better in contrast to co2 diffuser, where we want co2 gas to dissolve completely in water b4 reach water surface ============================= to check for co2 tank leakage, easiest way is to shut ur regulator, but open ur co2 tank main valve, write down the reading (should be 800-1000psi) leave it for few hours to 1 or 2 days, reading should NOT go down if there is no leakage also check for leakage with soup water around ur gas tube, check valve joint point (if u using external check valve or bubble counter) next... put ur whole tank without regulator in plain water .. if everything is fine, then might be regulator issue remember to replace the o-ring inside regulator each time u refill ur tank ... that o-ring tend to wear out or got harden after long time |
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Feb 29 2012, 08:17 AM
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#217
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LOL.. nice catch !
my bad... should be soap water posting @ 7am is like that lor |
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Mar 3 2012, 06:04 AM
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#218
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if u off ur manual regulator then shouldn't have leakage at check valve
oh ya, lfs shouldnt put whole tank with regulator in water to test This post has been edited by ciohbu: Mar 3 2012, 06:04 AM |
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Mar 3 2012, 08:24 AM
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#219
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QUOTE(LuQEE @ Mar 3 2012, 08:14 AM) can karat ah the co2 set? especially the steel tank ones? percentage very low for steel tank .. unless its not nicely painted or the paint chipped off after u hit something and exposed to air, slowly it will karat... soap water can do some corrosion too to the exposed part aluminium one no need say lo This post has been edited by ciohbu: Mar 3 2012, 08:26 AM |
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Mar 4 2012, 08:17 PM
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#220
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QUOTE(LuQEE @ Mar 4 2012, 06:33 PM) err, how you guys/girls setting ure co2 manula regulator? need steady hands eh? good quality regulator shouldn't have this issueevrytime i setting, too much bubles/second, when i got 1bps, after 15 minutes, no bubbles go out anymore, need to reset again, then the same thing repeat again and again hehe..  no...i will not buy solenoid regulator for the time being <------------(if anyone try to advice me to use solenoid  )QUOTE(bluecoat @ Mar 4 2012, 07:40 PM) My tank all is slow growing plant , you mention the slow growing plant easy affect by BBa , what is the full name of BBa ? 4hrs lightning period is too short IMHOThe slow growing plant can stand with 8 hour lighting with 2 x 36w tube ppl light ? Is your guy got install the bubble machine turn on when the co2 shutdown ? I heard someone say we need have bubble at night to generate o2 , is that truth ? i think he is referring to air pump some do turn on air pump at night, some don't, no obvious differences i guess |
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