I like the radio multi-function way way better than the plain steering wheel on my 2006 City VTEC and 2008 Civic 1.8. Can change volume and station without leaning over to the radio albeit the button is a bit cheapo looking and too small but better than nothing.

H-Line brake also a bit spongy initially but by 1K should be ok liao unless he's comparing to performance brakes....

Just to clarify, I won't come out when talking abt Jelly, Durex and Vaseline coz I need not use any. So got no experience in those stuff due to my users always produce enuf lubrication without me needing to add in more oil and addictives. Since all my users are certified clean, safety is a non-issue...

guys..i went to SC om saturday to check my engine indicator..he said something about switch..saw him chekcing lights around the car and touching fuse and he play2 with diagnostic tolls....after that the ligth indicator goes off...after 15minute driving.. the indicator lit again..usually whats the problem? mine one i dont think have any problem..clocked 500+km already..no sound, and everything seems quiet inside car..but the handling when go more 100km the steering a bit shaky..

one more thing..the rpm often shoots..i try to let go pedal early before engaging the cluth...but still shoots..sometimes it reach redline..how to solve?

xandras

civic has it, and my other City oso has it (illuminated button on multifu steering)

got more problem lorh...after checking your video, i believe my squeaking problem is not the same as yours, suspecting the tires bushing. i oso think i need to remove the strut bar, too hard on the suspension system i think.

U didn't say ma. How I noe. No need change suspension.. Just potong the area around the bracket a bit & bend the bracket in then can d.. There was a post somewhere in the past few thread regarding this.. Go look it up..

Actually I also don't if W30 really can use for Campro but based on everyone here, Campro running a bit hot. And its a high rev engine rather than the FC based designed engine.

As most ppl know usually high rev engine require at least 40 weight due to it....so-called high rev nature that usually runs more commonly into the higher range temperature. Weight 30 does not do so well at high temp. Although FS can tolerate high temp more but ours only Group 3+ FS, not true FS, not so sure if 30 can withstand constant high temp.

CPS version used 30 liao. So I guess they alter the design, or cooling system and other specs to lower the temp or rpm ratio, etc. Our cam tak pro unfortuntely still recommend to use 40 and above. I had doubt abt our engine production tolerance after ckdenion and others case....so not dare to take risk at all.

but Xand tested b4, seem like no major issue encountered by him.

thanks bro...don't mind can tell me which sc in puchong can bring own lube?

i check proton website and they list down 4 or 5 puchong sc. 

but i would prefer going to serdang sc coz its nearer to my place.

any PE owners here can confirm serdang sc allow to brng own lube?

thanks again bro..

On Castrol Magnatec and those popular lubes in spare part shops. Banyak fake in the market especially Shell and Castrol. Unless you have a reliable spare part shop to go to, if you get cheaper than market price, there might be a chance its fake.

One of the many symptom of fake lube is .....very fast degrade. There are 2 types of oil used generally for fake. Normal cheapo engine oil put into semi and fully syn....if kena this, at most, quality degrade faster and at 5K change oil, not that much damage, not that much protection either. What most worry is reused oil. These oil when reused...no addictives liao...go thru a process to make oil clear again like new but totally no addictives....engine wear, damange is almost immediate..

Technically all the oil companies do claim more than 10k km service life for their fully synthetic.. Most of them are rated at 10k miles.. So that is 16k KM of mileage between each oil change. I wonder if i shd go for that kind of extended mileage b4 changing my engine oil..

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Added on August 23, 2011, 9:01 am
The soundproof rubber.. The rubber that directly comes into contact with the car door.. The rubber conditioner will only help u to condition the rubber for a while.. After that the sound will come back once the rubber hardens back again. Then u will have to reapply the conditioner again..

Left door and right door different design mah.. Same like chicks too.. Both sides the boobs different sizes one.. Very rare to get one with both the exact same shape.

If fake castrol edge, your engine would be dead by now..
As I told you before.. my castrol edge turn black on 5.5k 90% black 10% gold
Last month I had done my 25k service and I had travel 1.5k with castrol edge..
the colour of edge turned to 30% black and 70% gold 

btw, now my car rev to 5k-6k rpm, my dashboard got sound..
It's like something is not in correct position.. donno how to explain 

Is it really come from you dashboard? or you try to see at this.

http://faieelegance.blogspot.com/2011/02/d...ling-sound.html

I think most of you relate lube turning black = no good. After speaking to quite a few actually working in the lube industry, it is almost ascertain....BLACK got NOTHING to do with lube good or not.

If your engine got soot and contaminants, a good lube will be able to suspend those contaminant in the oil itself. Thus if your engine is a bit dirty, your oil will turn brownish black even at 2-3K mileage.

Its one of the KEY FUNCTION of a good lube to suspend those contaminant in the oil. It had no affect whatsover on the addictives and lubrication function. However when the oil START to turn honey like. Thats the symptom, its at the end of life of the lube where the contaminant is either too much or the addictives to keep the contaminant from forming sludge worn out. We should avoid honeylike oil from forming thus usually 5K mileage oil change is recommended to prevent this from happening. When it happen, some sludge might have been formed, a bit late.

So if your lube start turning black even at 2K, its might means the detergent function is doing its job and the oil is holding those contaminant in suspend...don't worry if using good lube, the addictive will keep the dirt apart from forming sludge.

Not so sure if its fake, if engine lose power or oil turn honeylike after 2-3K, then better check if not engine issue, change the lube out fast if suspect its fake.

Heard even petronas also got fake (not sure) as sometimes even spare part shops also can't differentiate thus unless you got a reliable source, you might not want to risk it. Thats why some buy from petrol station although more expensive. Peace of mind....sure no fake if buy from Petronas station for example. Hypermarket like Tesco also should not have fake coz they will be in trouble if they sell fake even unintentionally.

Can it be because of Caltex? techron at work cleaning your engine while you drive...

Tak ada lar...too expensive. Mobil 1 CAN last more than 10k, so does a few FS but the claim usually had some hidden cavaet. A true group 4 FS like redline was designed to last over 15k to 25K.....also with cavaet.

In the end, all lubes no matter what manufacturer use this term "We suggest you follow your owner’s manual recommendation".

One of the common critical cavaet is IT CAN LAST depending on engine make (really depends on what car you drive coz different engine make got different cooling system, lubrication function, etc), driving, weather, road, dust, humidity and traffic conditions.

Due to our Malaysian "severe" driving category and our so-call small and mid-size sedan engine design, I would not recommend 10K mileage. At most by 7K to 8K, should change. Personally I gonna change FS at 5K to 6K max to keep my engine performance at optimum condition (change before lube addictives even started to wear out). Yes, its more costly but if you cannot afford to change at 5K mileage for FS or semi, can always switch to mineral...engine will be even cleaner than using FS 10K change in the end.

One of the main reason I still in doubt on magnatec...especially many of you say even after 5K, still mostly golden....mostly golden....not much contaminant suspend in there...where does the contaminant goes. Stick to the engine? Either that or the engine very clean. So far, I have not use a lube than still remain mostly golden after 5K...even those good expensive lube will turn brownish after 5K at our weather and dusty environment...

plan to do autofoam for my car side and rear chassis,is it useful?

xan:when u wan take harmee goreng??the mee still in my house lo...how about tis sat?i will go to PJ,u can come to take?

maybe

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Added on August 23, 2011, 2:52 pm

u oso wan do 2gether?i juz will test side and rear 1st..mostly i will go on mid of sep u wan join?

It is spray type. they cover the holes at your chassis, left one hole and pump in the foam.
You sure is Rm199 ah, confirm is EA foam ah. don later pump in other foam we all GG.com. This process has no turning back. once done is done.  Mid sept? sunday got open or not? cos i am working on saturday too. 
Can bulk for EA foam already. 
spray type.

v can view the foam 1st at his shop..then juz decide..according the comment from the user,it is good and the product similiar wit autofoam or profoam..dun wori..i will ask his sunday got open or not..if open,then u can join us..

bulk order for EA form:

1)samwongjyhhorng
if 3 car do 2gether,tat is RM180..if more than tat,still can discuss..

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Added on August 23, 2011, 7:22 pm

my tyre is 17inch,potenze RE001..my tyre oso very noisy lo..still got 70% thread

Since yesterday. LOL 
you know our chassis is hollow type. I think every car are hollow type. hollow means middle of the steel is empty. if our chassis were to make from solid steel then our car will become heavy and the drive will be not fun. if accident hollow steel is more easily to kemek compare to solid steel. The foam is to fill in the empty space in the steel, that makes your chassis to be more stronger and tougher lo.

EG, if you knock on an empty milo tin it produce a sound right? But if fill it with sand and knock it again the sound produce is lighter because the send tend to absorb the sound. This is what happen in most car. when travel the wind knock again the hollow steel and produce sound. the foam is install to absorb the sound. 

Btw there is a disadvantage using foam inside your chassis. If you occur in a major accident involve you chassis. (touch woods la.  ) where your chassis kemek or bend. the process of knocking it back to normal will be a tough job or impossible depend on how you crash. This the great disadvantage la. So becareful on the road la. 

At the beginning I got the intention to install it at cos it can absorb the road noise and wind noise. I sited inside a wira with profoam installed. Like sitting inside a coffin. ( choi touch wood  ) so damn quite. But that guy also invest a lot in making the sound proof for his whole wira. 

yup..is the 2 main hollow steel..

can you get the chemical for us? Maybe we can diy.