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 ★★★ LYN PROTON WAJA Club - V12 ★★★

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yngwie
post Aug 11 2011, 07:20 PM

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finally..... a V12!
yngwie
post Aug 15 2011, 07:30 AM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Aug 13 2011, 10:11 PM)
considered left chassis only i did not mod...
*
you should consider spot welding brows.gif
yngwie
post Aug 16 2011, 08:00 AM

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QUOTE(blackmachine @ Aug 15 2011, 11:24 AM)
hi guys, i'm back, now in the mood for pimp up my waja, hihi,

Added on August 15, 2011, 11:31 amguys, my absorber soudn ok ek ok ek edi, any suggestion on brand and model? anybody planning to go for proton free checking? my power steering got problem already, and also a leaking fuel tank, dang
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what is your preference? comfort or handling?
for comfort, stock setup is still the best. either stock proride or sachs is fine. but i personally prefer
monroe for comfort and a little bit of handling.
fyi, if your waja is quite aged, going for sports absorber or adjustable will kill your worn out arm bushes
almost instantly.
too much free play on steering is caused by worn out bushes. you should only consider the original proton
which cost around 35 bucks or pu bushes which is around 1xx bucks for better feel. never settled for
10 bucks 'ayam' brand bushes.
fuel tank seldom had this leakage problem. unless it hit something hard.
check the 2 hose on rear right side(1 big & 1 small) that goes to the fuel tank. most of the time, worn out hose usually break and thus caused leakage / fuel smell.
yngwie
post Aug 16 2011, 10:55 AM

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mao2@
you have to make sure both of your rear arm link is worn out. the long ones usually last a lot longer. only the
short ones need replacement. in this case, you need to go back to the original proton ones.
if both worn out, you can opt for the gen2 / persona type.
side by side comparison will show the original ones look tougher at the joints.
yngwie
post Aug 19 2011, 07:28 AM

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used it before engine transplant. giving more mileage and better pick up compare to other brand.
engine sound is very rough though.
yngwie
post Aug 24 2011, 07:55 AM

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QUOTE(ijamz @ Aug 21 2011, 12:26 AM)
duhh..i tot it is as simple as my old kancil...then there's no way to make my old dashboard shines again it seems. doh.gif
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there is this thing called 'Otter' color restoration smile.gif
yngwie
post Aug 29 2011, 11:20 AM

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guys, quick question ;
does the standard waja spoiler lid attached to the boot with only a double adhesive tape or with
double adhesive tape and screw?

thanks.
yngwie
post Aug 29 2011, 11:55 AM

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thanks. i never pay attention to the small spoiler lid on my car back in kl.
my sister just called. she wanted a slightly bigger spoiler. don't know who poisoned her doh.gif
yngwie
post Aug 29 2011, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Aug 29 2011, 12:00 PM)
slightly bigger turbo or higher boost is definitely better tongue.gif
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currently running on s256 turbine. it was driven by a girl.
i detuned with cut off at 0.6 bar. since it was a tiptronic box. guess she was having a good run. lucky i will be back to kl on month end sweat.gif
btw, trick about the fuel pump is finally out brows.gif

DaBestOne@
dang! she was asking if i could change the spoiler to the evo type.
but i prefer the exterior to be stock standard.
yngwie
post Aug 30 2011, 10:04 AM

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mao2@
yeah! r3 ones is just a tad bigger than the stock ducktail.
will look for it once am back in kl.

miracle_liam@
if you want comfort, go for stock apm or sachs super touring standard absorber as a replacement.
for rear abs, i prefer monroe sensatrac thou.

yngwie
post Sep 18 2011, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(jrboy86 @ Sep 18 2011, 03:03 AM)
Hi there all the sifus...Relatively new to LYN and lurk around most of the time and now wants to join in tongue.gif

I'm a super noob, a big one i meant in car...I'm having a Waja 4g18p (year 2001) bought 2nd and no maintenance done yet(guess the previous owner treated the car badly cry.gif)...Engine is noisy and read ThunderGod_cid 3bond thingy...

so now i'm asking for advices...Is the grounding necessary? hmm.gif  and what engine oil you guys recommend? my car is going about 320k+ ady...engine coolant necessary or rather just water? icon_question.gif

Thanks in advance first tongue.gif and am a student, so budget abit tight shakehead.gif

and the TT is super near....my exam hall is just around the corner(Bukit Jalil) rclxms.gif

To all the sifus, I  notworthy.gif after reading the advices though i only understand maybe 10-20% of it rclxub.gif
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noisy engine is probably caused by worn out engine mounting; cabin noise intrusion is unbearable at anything higher than 3.2k rpm.
Properly done grounding cables will eliminates the current lag. ie; eliminate hesitating power window, smoother gear change and slightly cooler air-cond. Also, minimal increased in engine's performance.
For such a high mileage, stay away from a fully synthetic. semi-synthetic is fine. or better, use mineral based oil.
For a little of cabin comfort, get a piece of nano odour remover.
Go for radiator flushing. 1 1/2 bottles of toyota / proton coolant and the rest with distilled water. The left over coolant
can + distilled water can be used for the reservoir.

Since you're unsure about the previous maintenance, contact elton@thundergod_cid for throttle body cleaning / engine maintenance.
also, since the mileage is very high, stay away from atf flushing. it will kill the gearbox's already worn out rubber seal in shorter time. Just an atf change will be okay.
yngwie
post Sep 18 2011, 03:08 PM

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jrboy86@
mineral based oil is just perfect for such a high mileage.

elton@
remember my friend who bought the oct and tb cleaning from you?
i think your new product suit him. will ask him to try it out.
yngwie
post Sep 21 2011, 07:59 AM

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Nightstalker1993@
everything is so expensive. the workshop made more than 500 bucks of net profit.
also, you should only change the cooling coil if it the fin had at least 10% damaged.
few example; engine mounting x4 complete is only around 250 bucks. front and rear only cost less than 100.
original bosch front rotor less than 200.
steering bush x2 around 35. all original proton.
yngwie
post Sep 23 2011, 07:42 AM

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QUOTE(Nightstalker1993 @ Sep 22 2011, 03:36 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
exactly! if you go to honest workshop(which is rare but still exist), it will be around rm500 cheaper! smile.gif
a simple comparison ; original proton steering bushes(x2 bush+tier+alignkey style screw) with labour cost around 65.
266 for front rotor is damn expensive. even for an oem bosch. for the price, could get a cross drilled performance disc already.
original proton mounting for auto gearbox which is front and rear(mounted to crossmember) cost less than 140 with labour.
the way you explained about how the foreman works on your car make 'em more like a newbie.

lastly, the stopping power is determined by the amount of caliper and disc size. not old or new. not even performance disc / pad(this combination allowed for less fade thus makes the brake more responsive on frequent usage but it doesn't increased the 'bite' capability). consider going for better tires too.
yngwie
post Sep 24 2011, 12:56 PM

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guys, my friend is selling castrol magnatec 4l semi-synthetic 10w-40 oil at 85 bucks. while stock last.
anyone interested do pm me and i will provide his contact number.
yngwie
post Sep 25 2011, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(brewoe_1988 @ Sep 25 2011, 09:12 AM)
anyone know the price for rear lower arm short and long... icon_rolleyes.gif
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consider okay. front absorber link is around 35 each.
rear arm ; short 45 each. long rm50 each. compatible proton.
yngwie
post Sep 28 2011, 08:09 PM

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steven@
how is your waja project?
i will be back in kl next month. any tt?
yngwie
post Sep 29 2011, 07:37 AM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Sep 28 2011, 11:08 PM)
it's almost done but the paint job will be nex month....
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great! once your car ready, organize a tt. i may attend for the last time.
that guy come back and tabled an increased offer. will be back in kl from next month onwards.

QUOTE(shiyau @ Sep 28 2011, 11:20 PM)
@dares i'm going to change soon.. eneos.. good? Btw.. how many litres needed for gear oil on waja?
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your waja is manual or auto? auto need about 4.5 liter. proton original sp3 cost around 23 bucks or so per liter.
yngwie
post Sep 29 2011, 07:46 PM

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QUOTE(shiyau @ Sep 29 2011, 09:45 AM)
4.5 litres including of flushing or not? or just filling it in.. if comparing proton original sp3 and eneos.. equally good? somehow eneos is cheaper than proton..  thumbup.gif
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what is your mileage? its not recommended to do flushing on auto tranny which already cover a high mileage.
it may break the worn out seal inside. anyway, if you insisted on flushing, you will need close to 6 liter.

And that particular mitsubishi auto tranny is quite sensitive to other fluid. since sp 3 could do the job just fine,
try other brand at your own risk.
yngwie
post Sep 30 2011, 08:19 PM

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QUOTE(shiyau @ Sep 30 2011, 04:06 PM)
I just asked mechanic that works for my company.. He said that 3.5 litres are enough to change gear oil for waja.. and he advised me not to flush, it's extremely risky to do so! Just pumped the old fluid out and fill in the new one will do..
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3.5 liter sounds very less to me. while still using 4g18p, it used to be almost 4.5 liter for my car refilling the atf sump alone.
your mechanic probably did not even completely pumped out the atf inside the fluid sump. let alone drained out and replaced those atf inside the valve area and torque converter(for auto gearbox) and maybe inside the atf cooler if there is an aftermarket ones installed.
check the waja manual book for better understanding.
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