exactly! 0 to 100km/h time does matter. it enables you to utilizes the empty space out of nowhere
as long as there are proper heat dissipation works done, cooling should not be a problem.
btw, my friend say you're very talkative and knowledgeable. he asked how much is the cost to replaced
his hoses to blue color ones? am giving up on lending a hand on him already

thanks. i will ask my friend to go there and get it.

the stock coolers setup is good enough. key to cooler engine bay is by having a good air ventilation.
a good cai setup or a proper bonnet air scoop, which allow for cool air in but minimal rain / dust.
after all, it can improves the air circulation inside the engine bay.

dares@
you mean the one in balakong? they're good at manual alignment but for wheels repair, i'd go somewhere else cuz'
their price on repair job is expensive.

btw, i may say good bye to waja thread soon. i've got an offer which is too good to refuse

dares@
driving around with bent wheels is dangerous. even so at high speed where the wobbles might give problem.
well, since quite a few of my friend are still driving waja, guess, i'll hang on.

blo0dLuSt@
my waja is already become the 3rd ride. mainly use by my sister. letting go off it. offer is too good to refuse.
some more, already mod to the max, there is nothing left to be done.
also, main ride require more attention due to the recently added another 2 fuel pump
btw, alignment price is okay. at least better than some shop which do electronic alignment.
over there, they foreman even test your car over and over, more than 5 times!

mxsteven@
darn right! gorgeous colleague can always be a 'personal friend'
remember my friend which joined you guys on t_t the other day? now he keep asking me on
matching his 4g18 with tiptronic gearbox. you guys poisoned him?

am already using one. its for my friend which joined you guys for t_t the other day. you can deal with him.
am tired already

went for a ride with my waja to johore last saturday. desaru and bandar penawar area via kota tinggi.
110 bucks of ron95 + 2xtorco octane booster lasted the distance which is 837km on the speedo.
boost kept at relatively low 0.8 bar thou.

finally...

finally let go off my civic killer. it was the ride refinement (nvh) that attract the buyer so much he keep
coming back with a good offer
lol... i already upgraded long time ago. my sister had been using the waja turbo for the past year.
my gxe-10 ride modification is reaching the desirable level too. was using a 2jz block with 1jz top. so, technically,
its road legal. jpj document all done. final touch with haltech platinum sport 1000, then send to
trial tuning and bingo!
for some reason, i don't really prefer sunway area. ivan's garage over there is an exception.

btw, pink candy metallic is so feminine

if you're driving waja auto, you could just use the standard sp3 atf oil and top up with x1-r auto transmission fluid
which cost around 28 bucks extra or so. as good as it get!

about the nvh, it was few months of slow but sure diy works. consisted of superflon, bitumen strip and few other soundproofing stuff which is actually available from garage sale.
firewall (in and out), floor, pillar, roof, boot area and 3 layer job on all 4 doors (sandwich the cotton waste).
also, the inner fender (plastic) was respray with 3m plastic bonding thing before being put in place.
btw, it may add up about 20kg(bitumen strip is quite heavy)to the car's weight, then again, since am already on 'rojak' engine, the added weight is not noticeable.
the buyer had absolutely nothing to mod already.


currently looking for a standalone ecu to replace my haltech ltx-12. else, i might just keep
it and frequent gt auto instead of trial tuning.
pearl purple inside the engine bay is nice. a neon light which switch on when the bonnet is open and bingo!

i don't get you... aren't pearl purple inside the engine bay is common?
only problem was florescent treatment doesn't last long.
btw, i can say good bye to waja thread already

added: waja leftover item from my garage up for sale :
1. hotbits 4-2-1 extractor (chrome) for 4g18p = rm250 (booked, unless buyer ffk)
2. 3 point ultra racing front strut bar( round type) fit to waja, gen2, s.neo and persona = rm80
3. rear (boot) alloy strut bar (no brand, lightweight) = rm80
4. custom turbo exhaust manifold (cm5a@gsrt with 38mm wastegate pipe) = rm500 (booked, unless buyer ffk)
5. thermal exhaust wrapper ( sard?) bought from rev performance, sunway but never used.
giving away 6pcs of O ring with it = rm100
6. 2 point front strut bar (cusco). previously use on waja cm5a = rm80
7. original k&n drop-in air filter (4g18p) = rm100 (booked, unless buyer ffk)

and few other...

This post has been edited by yngwie: Nov 29 2011, 07:46 AM

#5. yes. new one bought from rev performance. will check the length again but should more or less
about 7m.

#2. yes. with k&n sticker and serial number too.

btw, sorry guys, brake servo is selling at different price. typo error.
my spare brake servo taken from evo 6.5.
sorry for any inconvenience.

you got it right on the bold part!

btw, waja tread now become more poisonous.
too bad, since my waja almost reaching the mod limit, and the limitation of being a front wheel drive which limit her capability to power slide over drift, and again, limited suspension setup to play with, i just 'dump' her for a better
toy which could go sideways with more torque and hp to play around to the limit!
also, stretch your budget beyond limit!

a running tap water... jk
although am no longer own a waja, basically its about the same for any car.
all you need is a radiator flushing material, sufficient coolant replacement, and running tap water.
you can remove the big hose connected from radiator (top) to the water pump / engine block for better
result. i usually do this after draining some water to accommodate the flushing material , start the engine and once the water pump running, let the tap water run through the radiator - block, until you see a clean water out.
once you're satisfied with the result, stop the engine, drain the radiator, put everything in place,
pour coolant inside- add water - full. start the engine, let it run for 10 minutes or so.
top up the radiator water when the water level drop.
don't forget to clean up / replace the coolant / water in the radiator reservoir too.

for some reason, i prefer distilled water over tap water.

This post has been edited by yngwie: Dec 25 2011, 04:56 PM

my preferred setup on previous waja actually. not too stiff while still offer some comfort and handling compare to adjustables.
just too bad apm performax spring isn't a good as it used to be. the newer apm performax sport spring
tend to become softer / sagat after a year or so.

rm120 should be used absorber. if so, stay away from it. any absorber tend to hardened
after sometimes, but apm performax tend become harder than others due to the oil & gas combination.
also, since apm performax combination are stiffer(better handling) than standard apm / gab / sachs any other brand,
it will kill your worn out lower arm bushes much faster. apm performax combination with pu bushes
is awesome thou.
new apm performax spring without the original absorber rubber protector should be around 150.

110km/h on speedo should be showing about 2.4k to 2.8k rpm.
my ex-waja 4g18p before engine change was below 2.5k rpm at 110km/h.
running on 205/50/r16 tires.