The magnet trap theorically trap all the metal leftover of the new engine....but in really its already trapped in the filter liao, why want to put it there some more, I also scratch my head.

If fuel injection cleaner added....totally unnecessary....its a darn new car, what is there to build up in there....

Does CoSE do the same? I'm going there 2molo for my 1st 1K FOC service and fixing some of those darn noises all over the car..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 20 2011, 03:59 PM

There are 2 types of deterent. The very visible one that locks your steering (never like them, can scratch steering and dashboard) but quite useless as it can be easily overcome by removal of steering (yes, car thieves can do that easily) or just the steering (easier to cut that than the lock). Some ppl mentioned if cut steering, lower value of car but lots of car thieves disassemble cars and sells them for parts unless its those luxury models.

The one I find the most effective (although cannot stop a pro), is still the permanent brake lock like locktech. No need space to store (unlike steering lock), easy to pull and unlock (convenient) thus chances are, you'll use the lock almost everytime you park (unlike steering lock, sometime we just forgo when we short of time, too troublesome). Its much harder to remove than steering lock as you have to bend or lie down on the floor to attempt to disable or remove them. Those double lock and ignition disable brake lock like locktech takes even more time to do it....so car thieves, unless having ample time and hidden view, most likely will abandon attempt for easier target..

For FOC service 1K, 5K, 10K and 20K for H-Line e-voucher, CoSE used Semi-Syn Syn 800 10W40. Problem is the missing 15K service coz if semi-syn was used, 15K have to service and pay abt RM160++.

CoSE allows upgrade of semi to fully Syn 1000 15W50 by paying price difference at 10K and 20K. Problem for me is its still a 50 weighted oil. I wanted W40 (Syn 3000) but CoSE only have Syn 1000.

Not worth to bring own oil coz FOC engine oil will be wasted, so have to choose to either use semi or upgrade fully at CoSE.

So it is better to upgrade at 10K to heavier fully 1000 15W50 (next serv 20K) or remains at lighter semi 800 10W40 (till next serv at 15K)? Which is better for the engine.

Siao kah...RM490...

I installed original Locktech, double lock with ignition disable feature (socket plug, no splicing) at RM350 at Klang Bayu Perdana.

Yes, they can do that, I asked before. But malas lah, want to go find someone to sell some more. I'm just wondering if heavier weighted W50 fully is better than lighter W40 semi or not.. coz my preference is still weight 40.

Got another question on oil. On my City I switched from idetmitsu mineral 10W30 directly to idemitsu fully 5W30 at 80K mileage. Then read some where saying if used mineral for long time, its not good to change to fully as can damage engine. So far my engine seems to run better, more power, less vibration, more silent than previously. However I'm worried abt any long term wear and tear damage thru this switch....is it just a myth, nay saying or its actually for real?

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Added on June 22, 2011, 10:22 amOh...shorty also sell the same thing, it's also in Klang..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 22 2011, 10:22 AM

Thanks for the advise and confirmation.

If I used fully, I'm not going to switch back to semi thus the dilemma in keeping the semi for 25K..

Yes, I'm using stock on engine all along, no mod at all except for structural mod (strut, GC, etc). I've been using Honda Mineral SL 10W30 until abt 60K (play safe), then switch to Idemitsu SM 10W30 until 80K (play even safer cause Honda Mineral also idemitsu but old formula).

Finally used Idetmitsu Fully 5W30 at 80K. Idetmitsu oil pretty good quality and clean even for mineral but quite expensive. Save money mah and all along my engine perform silently and quite powerful as attested by one experience City club member. Only recently it tends to vibrate a little bit more....so switch to fully.

Will asked the mechanic to check if the fully oil dirty or not on next service (probably 6K-7K mileage), yes play safe again as even the mechanic (ex-Honda) mentioned fully by right should also change at 5K but can drag abit for cost saving...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 22 2011, 10:43 AM

I know the boss and been using his service for near to 6 years liao when he first open shop there. Quite honest.

So I don't think he will cheat me. Anyway I asked him before, he says its definitely real and mentioned the local ones are cheaper but he usually installed locktech. The original locktech metal finishing is much smoother especially around the edge and throughout entire body. So far mine looks original with smooth finishing.

So far my Civic and Persona double lock is very smooth to pull and release. In case, my keys also has Thai word imprinted on it (not sticker, its punch in wan). So assume its of Thai make.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 22 2011, 12:41 PM

The harder spring is already a negative in my eye. My City has Thulock, so called Malaysia made wan. Works well but the same harder spring really not so nice to pull when compared with the very easy to pull Locktech. Besides only RM70 difference, Lochtech can get 2nd lock for added protection, ingnition cut-off for 3rd level protection. So IMO, unless you're short of budget (no choice lar), getting locktech will be a better deal.

As for motorist, I remember reading a review of a foreign tourist on lonely planet years ago..

"Malaysian motorcyclists are under the impression that they are driving a bus"

I couldn't agree more.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 22 2011, 03:19 PM

No...it still comes with original assembly, metal rod. Mine only 3 weeks old.

Shit....no wonder my car creaking (when brake and then move)....like old ship...

Its still a 2011 year car tho..

Does changing 4-2-1 extractor require the removal of cat con?

Crossed my mind that if the Y socket is so easy to install by installer, chances are it can take 5-10 seconds for the thief to just re-plug back. Not much deterent for someone in the know but they still have to lie dow on the floor to look for the Y-socket. That delays the time and the awkward position might deter some to try it.

If thief can pick first lock, sure 2nd lock also can...but that increase the time by at least 10 seconds or more. From what I've read so far, sometimes even a 10 seconds delay will cause the thieves to move on to easier and faster target. We are hoping on that as a deterent.

Of course if you park your car in dark and unseen place where thieves have all the time in the world to disabled those lock, nothing can stop them.....unless its a luxury vehicles with high-tech lock...they just hijack only.

Is the stabilizer bar at our rear multi-link, an ARB or act in its capacity?

Anyone installed strut bar on their persona? Need their input.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 23 2011, 03:16 PM

Car still new...considering later but Persona cornering already pretty good but not sure whether the front strut will degrade "lotus/proton-tuned" thingy.

It definitely helped in my ex-iswara, ex-wira and city. Did not bother to put in Civic coz it got VSA, not sure will affect its function, so leave it.

Ppl say no money change tyres, some more you ask to change 17" rim...17" tyres very good grip also very very very good way to empty pocket with exhorbitant increment of tyre price. Even a 15" 205/55 Michelin XM2 cost RM 400++ nowadays, 17" can die liao.

I almost call derrick for persona but opted for Klang SA. Both pro and cons. Very fast sell car and get new car (within 2 weeks) but zero personal discount (except for the proton 2K discount). No choice, have to sell car fast fast before JPJ implement those troublesome checking thingy, at least I no need to bear cost of JPJ charges and those possible repair charges.

You selling Denso Iridium meh...I gonna get proton FOC change at 20K but will change them to iridium at 40K but that will be abt 1.5 - 2 years later kuah.

The common Michellin XM2 195/55/R15 cost abt RM260. Not sure if 205/55 mentioned is maybe wrongly type, 16" maybe. It seems price difference between different size within same inches also quite great.

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Added on June 24, 2011, 12:48 pmWhy change earlier than its due date, waste? Just save more now to spend on 80K servicing.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 24 2011, 12:48 PM

Sure or not after 1K, rev. That is old school. Don't know if it applies to current engine. I will not purposely rev until at least over 3-5K mileage. Normal driving exceeding 3K ok lah but not revving. Probably will retain 100-110 km/h at most for the next 4K. Not sure if those metal particle still around, so just let engine work out steadily first.

After my 1K service, immediately car slightly more vibration. But as i finished abt 100km, it smoothen out again and now seems to be stronger than before (or I'm getting used it driving/accelerating within its torque limit). My FC just hit 12km/l, up from prev 11km/l. Some car noise disappear, other new sound appears.

Still got neck and shoulder muscle ache. Don't really know why, maybe its the seat vs the steering wheel, just cannot get the right feel. Notice the seat back bend more to the front than my other ride and the heatrest is also angled to the front steeper than other rides. I usually sit straighter than most ppls while driving, prob the bends and more smaller shoulder rest makes my shoulder bend forward unlike other ride where I can rest mostly straight on the shoulder. Thats the only problem I have with persona (besides noise). Really enjoy driving it esp on the highway.

Notice if rev above 100km/h, really makan petrol but if retain 80-90....FC is steadily improving.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 24 2011, 01:58 PM

Almost all 3rd party bk outside cantik only. Those designed and comes pre-installed directly from factory like evo, etc only got use since they might go thru wind tunnel test (forgot, i think its call that kua)..to prove the downforce, etc.

How much are the denso iridium...persona specs, I assume. Cheaper than outside kah? Maybe buy now then 1.5-2 years later only fix (after at 40K mileage after FOC 20K change).

Drop-in Filter need cleaning and re-oiling manually. Darn lazy to even wash car, no way I'm going to do re-oiling. Secondly, the performance will degrade once re-oiling as we could never achieve the original perfect factory oiling performance. Thats why I resist using drop-in for my city.

CoSE also used up all 4 liters says its standard (SA says they always filled 4 liters). I have not check the oil level yet. The manual indicated 4 liters tho, with 3.7 liters in engine and 0.3 liters in oil filter. Maybe if put in engine treatment then exceed.

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Added on June 24, 2011, 3:07 pmI don't think you need to check petronas, etc. Its becoz you started revving above 3K rpm. Anything going above 3K rpm for Persona, sure makan minyak compared to below. Its common knowledge driving below 100km is best for FC.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 24 2011, 03:07 PM

The last time I notice the red alarm led (in middle of console) keeps blinking even while I'm driving. 3 blink interval...did not know why until I notice later when i tried to lock car, my boot is open. Not sure but you can try to see if boot not close, the alarm led will blink or not.

Macam, ini I also want 1 set Iridium. RM160. Got expiry date kah..

Still need to wash them, lazy If no reoiling, then the performance do goes down vs with reoiling, is it not. Some more cleaning by washing later might not perform as good as a good new air filter. Still wonders, if can have higher airflow means its paper holes are bigger, means more dust will go thru vs original paper filter. Sorry for being sceptic but thats my main concern.

So this Simota filter is a dry filter...I assume, not oiled. Wash with chemical if I'm not wrong reading from Kent Goh thread somewhere.