CoSE using semi-syn 10W40 Syntium 800 for 5K service. Wonder how come they don't use mineral?

They used up all 4 liters. Read the manual, 3.7l for engine, 0.3l for oil filter. Have not bother checking my engine if it exceed the max or not. Powerwise, still ok, no reduction although initially a bit more vibration but already smoothen out.

5 years ago already got this. Nice if wanted dull dark or carbon look for cars but for most, the shiny metalic paints still looks more impressive esp when shine to showroom condition.

These type of stickers, the base glue not sure can damage car paint or not under our severe weather. The last time I read is a service for installation of special sticker SPECIFICALLY designed to placed on top of paint to protect car. Installation by pro costing at least 1K and above.

On EWP, I think I read somewhere in the brochure, the 3 years EWP IS INCLUDED in our current PE purchase as part of the package. Mmm....have to check it out to see if my PE is covered under this offer. Any new PE H-Line can check this out or not coz my SA even more blur than me.

On mineral...darn...I used Honda Mineral 10W30 until 80K mileage ler...now only switch to Idemitsu 5W30 fully syn. I do service every 5K right on time until now. Fully I'm going to leave it to 6K-7K before servicing coz will hit 6 months (coz my wife using now, only city driving).

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 1 2011, 12:54 AM

Coule you please check with SA if your warranty automatically include 3 years EWP extended warranty or not? Check if these warranty comes by default for PE H-Line.

By theory, yes warranty will void. In reality, normally would not void warranty. They normally just ignore it coz most problems not related to engine lubrication. Lots of ppl doing it. However if something really happened to your engine, this will give them bullet to shoot you and say void warranty but that rarely happens.

As for engine oil, SAE SL (don't use SJ, a bit too old in requirement). ML is even better. Oil viscosity should be W40 or W50. Nowadays, CoSE using Syn 800 Semi Syn 10W40, so W40 is definitely more recommended vs the original W50. The front (ie 10 numbers) can be anything from 5 to 20 as its cold weather viscosity that normally makes not much difference with our weather. As listed in manual 10W40 to 20W50 can be used.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 1 2011, 10:11 AM

Got ML...Missed Lor....iayah....mistype lar....I meant SM.

SJ although can be used, standards is already superceded by SL and then SM. So for older engine SJ ok, but why use older standard vs the newer ones that have better addictives that fulfilled the newer requirement of recent engine. So I would suggest a min. SL (also dated vs newer formula SM. Normally fully syn SM).

If old engine, SJ might better tho since its designed for those engines at that time.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 1 2011, 10:36 AM

Can. But do you want to?

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Added on July 1, 2011, 1:31 pm
Unfortunately most software dated or no longer valid liao...I gave up trying unless Zap can also PM the link and procedures as well.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 1 2011, 01:31 PM

Aiseh...you got the program and steps, how come you don't share...i mau change to X5 SE also, but the link koyak. And those that survived gave the old Atlas 3 step. Atlas 4 lokatoo software change steps liao, invalidated the hack routine. Is your lokatoo using Atlas 4 or 3?

If you're having M-Line or H-Line, open up your seat, the big one. There is a center hook. Just wrap that hook with insulating tape. If not sure, then also wrap the left hook and the right hook (the smaller chair pull down) as well. See if its the infamous sound from there coz the metal hook will bang against the chair (hook connected with metal in the chair).

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Added on July 2, 2011, 11:15 pmI used Tokio Marine. Switched all my vehicles to that upon recommendation from sis (insurance agent, have many insurance under her flag...so not biased, some more sister mah). Even my mudguard foreman (did lots and lots of accident claim) also mention tokio marine good, easier to claim, less red tapes to get $$$ faster. Some local ones really really drag their feet to claim money. Not tokio. Thats the recommendation from my sis and foreman (believe in foreman coz they usually do claims and would go for the best claimed insurance).

Also be careful if you buy windscreen insurance, coz there's a number for insurance company now require POLICE REPORT just to claim windscreen. Kena last time with one insurance. So switched to tokio marine (no need police report for windscreen, yet, I think).

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 2 2011, 11:15 PM

First and foremost, did you check your tyre pressure. Normally cars coming from factory and stock yard put pressure at over 260. That causes bumpiness and overhardness when driving.

Release air pressure to 210 front min. (mine 235) and 190 rear min. (mine 215).

Besides that, alignment and balancing might also runs (factory adjusted setting sucks). So if release pressure still same problems, try doing those. You can do that at SC FOC before 1K but they will never tell you that. After 1K, better do it outside. IMO, outside skills better. I do it outside the moment I get my car after I realise my car runs to right when running on highway.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 3 2011, 10:06 AM

Personally I won't run over 3.5K rpm until you hit at least 1K mileage (I keep mine at 100km/h at most). There's a lot of post factory metal particles in your engine. After change your oil at 1K only I dare run more than 100km/h to avoid scratching piston wall. Lubricant do get thinner at higher temperature...

Actual the most important document is your JPJ registration card. As long as it is in correct order, you're safe. The DO is not THAT important to you. Its more important to Proton coz its prove they deliver to you. Personally I might even ignore it.

What you need to do if you're worried is to call i-Care or Proton. Ask them to check your car number if its under your correct spelled name. If its wrong, just ask them to correct it, not that important coz the REAL PROVE is still your CAR REGISTRATION CARD. Thats the only document that matter.

One of the main reason I always emphasize on spending $$$ on a good tyres with good wet grip. Michelin PP2, PS3, Hankook V12, etc...those mid-range with good dry grip and excellent wet grip are my choice. Other better wan, too darn expensive. Tyres are the only items remaining in contact with the road but lots of ppl go for cheapo wan to save money coz wear and tear mah. Anyway it only helps up to a certain level but might be good enuf to increase your chances of avoiding acc by a fraction.....fraction of seconds that counts.

No money to change my stock NCT5 tho....will wait out till it worn down. But if wanted to keep stock 60 height, don't think my choice PS3 or V12 got that range in Malaysia...might have to settle for entry level CC5 or XM2

No need go Penang to see ppl drive like that. Come early morning from Federal Subang tolls onwards up to KL or back....lots of drivers stop 2 cars away from the front wan...even in the middle of jams. Sleepy some more always almost knock into those cars, since we always observed 2 cars away...

Is it our brake disc or the RS brake pads that you guys are using? How come lots of ppl have brake issue until have to skim. Can't help but compare other makes, normally don't have problem with brake unless it warp. Skimming have to be done once in a while but quite rare.

Danny,

What line are you having, H-Line, or M-Line/B-Line?

New H-Line comes with 20K mileage service voucher (actually just a piece of printed/photostat paper with all 4 voucher number).

Under these vouchers, you get BOTH FOC part and service. However CoSE using semi-syn 800 10W40 for each service. That means they WILL use semi-syn for 10K mileage.

2 options,

1st option, use own fully, and take semi back and tanam jagung with it. Next service 20K mileage.
2nd option, use the semi and come back for service at 15K mileage at your own cost.

Myself, I'm going to use their semi and go servicing every 5K mileage (that means own cost at 15K) until at 25K, then change to fully. At times its better to use mineral and semi and change every 5K rather than use fully and change at 10K.

IMO, our severe weather, driving conditions and proton campro (might not have as tight tolerance as those good engines) makes 10K too long. The dust and dirt accumulation is quite horrendous for Malaysia weather. Engine oil boleh tahan 10K without losing viscosity but the dirt particles in oil....I'm having doubt on the filteration up to 10K mileage.

Even for City, I'm changing fully at 7K mileage to obtain optimum engine cleaniness and performance. Prev mineral change every 5K without fail, no sludge, I think.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 4 2011, 01:55 PM

Turning black quickly, does it means also it cleans out the engine more efficiently (thats some of the theory floating around). Maybe golden means it does not unsludge as effeciently


Lots of opinion outside but there's a quite a number with opinion as below

"I am attached to one of the lubes distributor in MY and, I only recommends max a 7K km "stretch" if you are too busy to change your lubes... And I only recommends FS and SS if you wants your engine to perform better, to be much cleaner and to have better fuel consumption but stick to the regular OCI, that is at 5K km.."

Here's a quote from Volvo:
"Synthetic oils do not allow further extension of oil drain intervals. It is the contamination rate, i.e., soot, and the depletion of additives, rather than base oil quality that determines the useful engine oil life and therefore the oil change intervals."


There is one other opinion

"I would be worried if your oil didn't change colour after driving 5km. The purpose of the engine oil is to lubricate and clean the engine internals. So if after 5k of driving and your oil is still nice and clean - better stop using that oil brand."

......haha ----> Castrol ????


Really getting confuse sometimes...

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Added on July 4, 2011, 2:18 pmIf you're h-line and just bought your car recently (May onwards, not sure about April)...you're supposed to get the E-Voucher printed directly from dealer. 1K, 5K, 10K and 20K FOC labour and PARTS. Not sure abt ATF change in 20K, not listed maybe have to pay but spark plugs, engine oil, filters should be FOC with this e-Voucher.

AND my darn SA tak da cakap also. DID NOT even mention free service until I found out thru internet and ask him.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 4 2011, 02:19 PM

Zen,

Remember to reserve 1 set Iridium Spark Plug for me. Don't know when pick up, maybe 1 of the TT if time permits or meet you up in Subang one of these days.

Frankly does VS omprove anything if car without ICE. If yes, what is the effect?

My City battery very small, so hitting a VS will lessen the impact of light dimming when air-cond compressor turns on. Also easy to see if battery is weak thru its LED light. Thats abt it. For Persona, is there any effect? Any actual what is the effect of gc on Persona.

EricTioh carry what brand of VS (that you guys install)?

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 5 2011, 11:13 AM

Hah...do you trust Proton can handle their own CVT? Unless they are using Inspira one. Even then to link that tranny to Proton own engine, you can be sure first couple of years, lots and lots of teething problems. CVT is both expensive and hard to maintain. Some more Malaysian loves to rev and in general CVT is not meant for revving.

Remember what happen to City's CVT? They finally gave up and change back to auto-tranny. More economic.

So I guess although it might work, who wants to be a guinea pig?