Yes, the transmission power loss matters...thats why I keep mentioning CVT vs Auto. CVT trany halves the power loss suffers by auto tranny. Against manual no fight, sure lar.

I'm comparing City with Persona H-Line Auto (nearest to City in term of specs) thus its actually 200kg lighter. Base line manual sure lighter with little tranny power loss. And City VTEC torque peaks at 3400, giving tremendous boost at low and mid-range power. At high end, I don't see much difference.

No need bulk yet coz Zen has 2 extra sets in his boot, I think. PM him.

Hah....actually Honda City VTEC 2006 weight is 1090kg. 1150 is the NEW CITY iVTEC one. The old one is lighter by 60kg. Unless you weight 160kg....than can match lor...

Haha..what the hell are we arguing abt weight for, I also can't remember..... City VTEC is what they term e-VTEC.......economy VTEC....got VTEC better than no VTEC mah...

It really depends if you want performance tyres or comfort wan. Also the price range. 912 will make quite some noise after 30% worn in most case. Performance normally noisy wan so I assume you're prefering a comfort tyres.

The recent Conti CC5 seems to garner quite some good reviews with adequate grip for a comfort tyre. Low noise also but then its still quite new.

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Added on July 8, 2011, 5:22 pmSpecs alone says new City coz PE is heavier (assuming auto vs auto at high spec), 4 speed auto vs 5 speed (still I think tipu wan, 2 overdrive mode), 122hp vs 110hp. But its the driver that can push car to the limit...so who faster....if you lose, he faster lor....if you win, you faster lor.. But then if you corner here and corner there using stock...city still lacks in handling vs PE....

AE86 still in my mind...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 8 2011, 05:25 PM

Even before naik harga, Pirelli tyre already exhorbitant price. Now....can empty pocket just to buy one.

Anyway Honda discontinued iDSI becoz real life data indicated FC improvement over its VTEC model is very negligible.

Also latest City pickup IS slightly faster than CVT version but by mid-torque CVT will start to overcome them.

AND City CVT pickup does not SUCK. I've always mentioned most ppl prefer the zoom zoom feeling. CVT DOES NOT convey that feeling but although it IS SLOWER a bit at initial pickup, if you are able to control the accelerator to increase speed according to its torque increment, you get OPTIMUM power at each speed increment. In another word, if you try the usual auto tranny way of acceleration, its not going to make the best out of CVT gear box and you'll feel underpower the petrol you tekan does not match the CVT steady BUT definite increment (optimum torque at each steps). Thats how CVT provides good FC and steady power increment.

Honda mentioned the reason to switch back to normal auto tranny is becoz asian loves vroom vroom feeling and unable to handle smooth steady increment of CVT although its the best at FC and power balance. I suspect most prob becoz its fragile and ultra expensive to replace..

I've kena tapau so many time by others at initial pickup but most I could overtake a short while later, (they seems to run a bit out of breath after initial acceleration but CVT keeps going and going and going). Only at higher speed could they match back side by side.

btw now Honda still got 3 stage VTEC meh...those are in the past already....but manyak makan minyak lor...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 8 2011, 08:58 PM

I guess that solved the mystery why your butts always hurt in the morning after both of you go on drinking binge the night before...


Mmm...biological alarm ticking. Darn should not sleep 2 hours earlier than usual. Now also wake 2 hours earlier than usual..

Bro....you don't flush stock paper filter wan. Use blower instead.

Its oiled isn't it? Blower would no work. Flush.

Most ppl say no need change unless the camber really runs out a lot. All cars comes with camber but mostly its a fixed non adjustable camber screw. Once its lock in place, no adjustment even if camber runs out. The adjustable camber is just a screw that allow tightening and untightening the screw. Its located between the joint from the the brake disc and the shaft...whatever its call.

So unless it runs out quite a lot, then only change. If it did not run out of place, no need to change to adjustable.

Another noise appear....

My steering shaft will shake kek kek kek, if go thru hard patch of road including those rough basement ramp. I think my locktech brakelock is attached to it....don't know if ask CoSE to tighten it, they will mention brakelock block and reject or not..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 9 2011, 10:55 PM