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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V10, The dark lord continues

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vearn27
post Jul 6 2011, 01:54 AM

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Guys, what are the tips and guide when purchasing used lens? The shop quoted me the wrong price. It's RM4.9K instead of RM3.9K ~ Lol. Kinda expected anyway but I'm just giving myself false hope. Now looking at used unit instead.

In addition, a guy just let go his 2 months+ 17-55 /f2.8 with about 9 months+ warranty at only RM3.7K last weekend. Sheesh, missed that deal out sad.gif
vearn27
post Jul 7 2011, 10:23 AM

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QUOTE(Isepunye @ Jul 7 2011, 02:20 AM)

Added on July 7, 2011, 2:32 am
i think i need to check back whether my D90 is canon or nikon  sweat.gif
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Lol. It's not pointing at you, but the person holding the DSLR in the photo that you took tongue.gif

QUOTE(Devil_J @ Jul 7 2011, 08:42 AM)
Hi Guys,

I have a question regarding my Nikon D90 with 18-105 kit lens. I bought this package last year May and been using it since then.

Recently, I found out that there is some sort of back-focusing issue whenever I tried to take a potrait picture with an infrastructure behind as the background. Instead of focusing on that person, the camera focus on the background which is quite disappointing.

There also has been an increased used in Single- Point Focus whereby I choose my own focus point instead of auto-focus as the camera can focus on what i wanted.

Can you guys please advice me what's gone wrong with my scenarios above as they are getting annoying.

By the way, I have dropped the body together with the lens (together with the tripod) to the ground once but I think it's wasn't big impact, I am not sure.

Please do advice me on what should I do next as Nikon really produces the colour of the photos that i wanted.

Cheers
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In your case, I little doubt it's the camera or lens issue than the wrong technique used. Try use Single-Focus Point and use the one in the middle (the middle one is the most sensitive point among all available). Set your camera to AF-S (single) mode instead of AF-C (continuous). Focus on your subject (the person in example) by holding the shutter half-down. Once the subject is locked (the DOF being set), by keep holding the shutter half-down, recompose your frame and snap it when you got what you wanted. Please remember not to move the camera (yourself as well) front & back or tilting it while recomposing. The focus plane may changed and could result in OOF (Out Of Focus) case.

Any guru please welcome to correct me if I'm wrong.

QUOTE(shdwkillr @ Jul 7 2011, 08:52 AM)
I'm having that problem as well. I was all the while thinking that it is my own photography technique wrong problem, where sometimes I get a focused background but blurred person in front. (Well, I'm still a newbie with my Nikon D90 with 18-105 kit).

By the way, I repeat one of my threads on top, I'm going to a trip to the southern island of New Zealand, can someone recommend me a nice lens to go along with my Nikon D90 so that I can take portraits with nice background and front person, food pictures and landscapes?
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Try use the method above and see if you still get blurred subject smile.gif

What's your budget for lens? biggrin.gif
vearn27
post Jul 7 2011, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(shdwkillr @ Jul 7 2011, 10:59 AM)
I am not sure if 35mm lens is suitable as a trip lens, if it is, looking at the price of Nikkor 35mm 1.8g lens, my budget should be around there. I seriously need advise on a suitable travel lens that I can bring along to New Zealand to take nice family portrait photos and food and landscapes.
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Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G is about RM750. Taking scenery and family shots don't require bokeh. Well, again it depends on what you wanted to achieve, but IMHO it's wasted to take bokeh shot for travelling since you'll missing out the scenery details.

Your 18-105 kit lens should do just enough. Instead of getting a bokeh lens, why not get a flash instead? SB700 is about RM1,000.
vearn27
post Jul 7 2011, 01:36 PM

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Just wondering this as I have noticed a few, if the warranty card stating Nikon (Malaysia) Sdn. Bhd. but not stamped by company cop, would the warranty still valid or compulsory require company's cop? unsure.gif
vearn27
post Jul 7 2011, 03:22 PM

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Anyone here has 17-55 f/2.8? Funny this is somehow like "birth mark" for certain batch(s) or unit(s)?

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/forum/topic/739081
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 12:55 AM

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QUOTE(Devil_J @ Jul 7 2011, 04:58 PM)
Hi,

Yes, I do normally use auto-focus mode as I thought the camera is a powerful device that will know what i want to snap. my fault then smile.gif But, most of the time, auto-focus can't focus what i wanted. which also mean, for now, i only get to use single-point regardless of what type of photo i wanted to take.

Btw, due to the fact that I dropped my camera and lens before, will this affect the focus area or something related the lens or body?

Cheers

Did you, by any chance always moves the single focus point manually within the bracket to shoot the photo of how you desired to be? Judging from what you have shared, it seems like you are yet to understand how the focusing system work and the DOF (depth of field). Do you also understand the method of "focus & recompose"? Just to make sure you understand these otherwise the replies wouldn't bring you anywhere smile.gif


Added on July 7, 2011, 11:13 am

Hi,

I have read your article and found out that one of the scenario applied to me, [If the main subject in the focus brackets is relatively small, such as a person standing in front of a distant background.  This may result in the background being in focus, while the subject is out of focus.  This is more likely to occur when a wide angle lens is used.]

Do you mind sharing how to solve such problem?

Btw, I am using AF-A mode and yes, i do press the shutter button halfway before fully pressed.

Cheers

Practice the "focus & recompose" method. Set your AF to AF-S (Single) instead of AF-A (Automatic) and AF-C (Continuous). Use Single Point Focus and the middle one (don't move it around). Point the focus point to your subject, the one you wanted to focus. Press the shutter half-down to focus on the subject. When you're doing this, the DOF is set (google if you wanted to know more). While holding the shutter half-down, recompose the photo by moving your camera to get the "frame" or "shot" or "photo" that you desired. Then snap it by pressing the shutter all-down from holding it half-down (please do not release the shutter and press again)! Remember not to move front and back (your camera and yourself) and not to tilt the camera while it's pressed half-down (focusing), else you may get OOF (Out of Focus). Hope this helps smile.gif

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Answered your post in the quote in blue.

QUOTE(Everdying @ Jul 7 2011, 05:33 PM)
yea, mine also like that.
its a common thing, wont fall off anyway.
if u get irritated at it, just go nikon ask them put new one for u... tongue.gif
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QUOTE(shinjun @ Jul 7 2011, 07:25 PM)
Mine don't have this issue. smile.gif
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Haha. This is weird and funny. It seems to be like a "birth mark" for a number of unit(s) or batch(es) biggrin.gif

Everdying didn't bother it at all since it doesn't affect anything?

QUOTE(Devil_J @ Jul 7 2011, 09:12 PM)
ahh.. so it's really hard to take a nice front focus photo with what i wanted huh?

BTW, can i know what is the different between 18-105 and 18-200 beside the zoom range? will the 18-200 focus better or anything else?

Cheers
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Doubt if it will focus better, but you'll get a better range (200mm) compared to 105mm smile.gif

Focus better usually more to be related with the body and most importantly skills than the lens itself. Lens wise should be either focus fast or slow smile.gif

QUOTE(kokokranc @ Jul 8 2011, 12:19 AM)
EXIF 1: On air
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


EXIF 2: Lining up with runway
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Likewise commented, use smaller aperture (larger DOF) and faster shutter speed. According to rule of thumb, Shutter Speed = 1 / Focal Length. Therefore, in your case is:

1 / 300 x 1.5 = 1/450

It's recommended to use the next faster shutter speed to 1/450. Why the x 1.5 factor, it's because D3100 is a APS-C (crop sensor) body.
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 02:00 AM

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Any Liverpool fan here bought the ticket from SC Internal Purchasing? They got special numbered seat for RM108 ticket + Special Hand Strap for Training Day + SC Limited Edition Liverpool Lanyard biggrin.gif

Attached Image
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 10:16 AM

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QUOTE(Devil_J @ Jul 8 2011, 02:40 AM)
Hi,

Thanks for your advice.

So do you guys normally take photos in Auto-focus mode or single- point? and for single point, you always maintain the focus-bracket in the middle, right?

and for 'focus and recompose', I cant move front and back only rite? i.e i can move left right or up down?

thanks
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Devil_J,

Need to break the terms up a bit and explain individually as they're related but not the same.

Auto-focus is the camera automatically focus on the subject you wanted to focus when you point it with your focus point(s) within your viewfinder and press the shutter half-down. What happened during auto-focus is that the camera automatically set the depth of the field towards the subject which you wanted to focus.

Auto-focus has 3 modes which are:

  1. AF-A (Automatically switch between Single and Continuous)
  2. AF-S (Single focus)
  3. AF-C (Continuous focus)

You have to google to read up the different in between the modes. Basically, AF-S will not refocus until you release the shutter after you pressed the shutter half-down (which mean you have focused) while AF-C will continuously try to refocus whenever you pressed the shutter half-down and moving the camera. AF-A in the other way will automatically switch in between AF-S and AF-C based on the "intelligent" of the camera.

Other than Auto-focus is Manual-focus where you need to turn the focus ring on the lens to focus on the subject you desired.

Auto-focus Points is another thing where how many auto-focus points to be used with auto-focus (there'll be no focus point for manual-focus). If you're using D90 (if I'm not mistaken), you should have maximum 11 auto-focus points and can switch to use single focus point. When you use all 11 auto-focus points, the camera will determine (think) which subject you wanted to focus based on the camera's "intelligent". Hence, you may need to focus multiple times in order to get your subject in focus. Otherwise, you may use Single-focus point and focus on the subject you wanted to focus, then while pressing the shutter half-down (focusing), you may move the camera to recompose your photo.

What it mean by recompose is... says you wanted your subject to be in the lower left of the photo. When you focused on your subject, basically it should be the subject in the middle of the viewfinder now because the single focus point is in the middle. Then, while pressing the shutter half-down you move you camera to locate your subject to the lower left of the viewfinder. Once done, press the shutter all the way down to snap it.

I also kelam-kabut when trying to explain already... hope it helps rclxub.gif

QUOTE(jchue73 @ Jul 8 2011, 02:42 AM)
Not a Liverpool fan but interested to shoot them. Do you know how close the numbered seats are? Are those tickets only for training day or the match as well?
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I'm not sure about this as I only entered once to Bkt. Jalil stadium and that also I sat within the ring inside for concert than the stands. The ticket is only for the match day itself, training day will be provided a different access tag which is free when you purchase the ticket. But if I'm not mistaken, training passes are limited and already given all out smile.gif

This post has been edited by vearn27: Jul 8 2011, 10:37 AM
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 10:40 AM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Jul 8 2011, 10:01 AM)
ah, was wondering why my friend's one had numbered seat for the rm108 ticket.
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Yeah, I collected the ticket from my friend yesterday and quite surprised when I see row and seat number on the ticket shocking.gif

In addition, got the SC's hand strap to differentiate between SC Internal Employee and non employee during training day smile.gif

This post has been edited by vearn27: Jul 8 2011, 10:44 AM
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 10:46 AM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Jul 8 2011, 10:42 AM)
means we will all be preparing water balloons from the 2nd lvl to throw on SC staff down there biggrin.gif
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Want to be so bad meh? laugh.gif

Anyway, don't think I'll be carrying my DSLR there as my kit lens 105 will not bring me anywhere near tongue.gif
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Jul 8 2011, 10:50 AM)
stand chart staff get 20% off, or maybe more, all i know is i was offered 20% but i had already bought my ticket.
somemore they get a reserve section right in front?
i know for a fact that some MU fans with SC tickets are also going to be there watching...so u think? tongue.gif
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20% discount? I never know about that and my friend forwarded the email to me also did not stating 20% discount except mystery Liverpool merchandise which I suggest is the lanyard.

I checked with my friend again, he said it's free-seating and the white color strap to be wear on the match day instead of the training day. However, on the ticket stated row and seat number blink.gif

What gears are you carrying there anyway? laugh.gif
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 11:01 AM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Jul 8 2011, 10:58 AM)
i'll bring along my 70-300 during training just to see how the reach is, then if useless i wont even bother bringing a 70-200 / 80-200...just my canon s90 tongue.gif
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My gears max reach 105 need not to mention already tongue.gif Probably just my Sony DSC-W300 laugh.gif

Anyway, izzit 17-55 from Nikon is weather sealed? unsure.gif
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 03:15 PM

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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 8 2011, 12:50 PM)
Is it really necessary to get a flash such as Nikon SB600 or getting a battery grip would be better or get another lens Tamron AF 17-50mm F2.8 XR Di II  ?
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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 8 2011, 02:09 PM)
I have no idea tongue.gif

Yea , wedding , event , photoshoot portfolio for solo , traveling , food

Also , portrait shooter and bokeh lover here .

So far I ady owned 35f1.8 , 50f1.8 and 105 kit lens .
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i) Flashgun - A great partner for lens with small aperture. It does help a lot in dim and low light area.
ii) Batter Grip - If you shoot portrait a lot or need a heavier body to balance up heavy lens, else not necessary.
iii) Tamron 17-50 - You already have 35 and 50 1.8 ! Unless you lazy to change lens laugh.gif
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 8 2011, 03:27 PM)
Tempting wei if only i can buy all three of it ! HAHA tongue.gif
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I got all the 3 similar stuff you had mentioned but I don't own the primes which you have. Initially planning to get 50mm f/1.8G. Now, not so necessarily already unless I focus into taking portraiture tongue.gif
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 8 2011, 03:41 PM)
sadly , the 1.8G is made from china sad.gif
1.4 G is the ULTIMATE

Still , 1.8G is better than my old 1.8 , i heard autofocus is faster than 1.4G , hopefully i didnt see wrong from article or from youtube .

I have the same thought like you . Planning to get 50mm f1.8G too .
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Do you, by any chance, specifically, sensitively... really... I mean REALLY ??? can feel any different if the lens made from China or Japan other than the words made? biggrin.gif

Chill chill... just joking since it's Friday and massive jam coming into the weekend.

1.4 is great, but not that easy to shoot. Last time I used Nikkor 50mm f/1.4, I only comfortable shooting from f/1.8 and above. f/1.4 kinda soft sad.gif

We do have the same thought, but in totally different situation. I have no prime and only kit, but you have both the 35 and 50 f/1.8 prime biggrin.gif
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 8 2011, 04:01 PM)
Even my iphone is made from China , kenko PRO1D lens filter made from Japan , D7000 made from Thailand . NO , there are all the same  biggrin.gif

Glad I'm staying in my hometown here ( seremban )

Totally massive to the MAX !

Maybe you should start invest more money to lens . Plan a list to get ur future lens  rclxm9.gif  I'm sure every photographer have a wish list to get AWESOME lens
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Kenko is a well-known filter manufacturer? I always have a bad thought that their filter is cheap quality stuff. Am sorry for that sweat.gif

I only invest the lens that I need blush.gif. I may get 85mm f/1.4G but ended up less utilized? biggrin.gif
vearn27
post Jul 8 2011, 04:24 PM

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QUOTE(lighter @ Jul 8 2011, 04:18 PM)
Kenko, Hoya and Tokina are same company call THK. The reason why Kenko is cheaper because it is in different range.. same like Toyota and Lexus
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Why I have such assumption because usually the shop will always recommend cheap filter and they usually recommends Kenko UV filter. Some even give them out for free when purchase lens with them sweat.gif
vearn27
post Jul 9 2011, 03:32 AM

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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 8 2011, 04:47 PM)
Ohh please . Once u have 85mm f1.4 , u will be dreaming like a king wears a crown . Less utilize ? Nah  rolleyes.gif  i dun think so .

it is better to know which one is fake and real kenko before u buy . Then there's ori and ap lens as well . Horrible  doh.gif
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Again, if you know what you shot the most... you'll know which lens will suits your needs. I'm shooting wedding actual day now, therefore wide coverage will a little bit of zoom will be good enough. Try be the OP for the day and only use 85mm f/1.4, I would like to see how you could survive it tongue.gif

QUOTE(freddy manson @ Jul 8 2011, 04:53 PM)
i have 50mm f1.4 and its underutilised..
sold it few days back..

its a matter of using vs buying~  icon_rolleyes.gif
"biar menang membeli, menang memakai"
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Totally agree with the bold phrase thumbup.gif

QUOTE(xCM @ Jul 8 2011, 10:56 PM)
okay, i see.. student here, budget not enough to buy expensive stuff yet. Will try to save up money to buy. I asked my uncle's advise either go for flash or the 50mm lens first, he advises me to go for ext. flash. any comment on this?
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Again, it depends on your needs which are what you shoot the most. If you like doing bokeh, portraiture and food etc. The 50mm f/1.8G is at your call. But in the other way, if you need one thing to create better shot with your current lens (assuming the kit lens), filling up the shadows, lighting up dim places, increasing shutter speed etc. Then flashgun will be a wiser choice smile.gif

QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 8 2011, 10:59 PM)
I guess if go for non vc , just need to understand how much shutter speed need to adjust at the same time the distance range focus .
Thinking twice of it , if go for vc , wouldn't the object focused in the photo looks clearer and crisper ?
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If you posses and able to handle it with proper techniques, stabilization is ain't that crucial. I'm not saying it's not necessary, but it may just be bonus or spare function in case needed?

I can't be sure about this, but by any chance NON-VR + PROPER TECHNIQUE VS VR + PROPER TECHNIQUE will have the chance of non-vr being sharper than the latter?

QUOTE(0168257061 @ Jul 9 2011, 01:05 AM)
wei wei , help me buy one lah if free to go

im living in kota kinabalu  sweat.gif

how the heck i will lost mine i also duno  shakehead.gif  doh.gif
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Isn't recently just a new Nikon shop opened at Kota Kinabalu? huh.gif
vearn27
post Jul 9 2011, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 9 2011, 11:33 AM)
85mm f1.4 is way far behind my wish list  tongue.gif
what lens do you use for wedding shoot event ?
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Just to remind you that 85 f/1.4 don't have VR as well. With big aperture, VR can be neglected.

Started with 18-105. Now 17-55.
vearn27
post Jul 9 2011, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(david9 @ Jul 9 2011, 12:21 PM)
Gonna learn to shoot with shutter speed with a plus of monopod/tripod , thats for me because I'm still learning

So I have a choice to choose either digital mall or J one amcorp mall to buy 1750 since both are selling official set . Hopefully can get cheaper .

17-55 . SWEET  thumbup.gif
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Still learning and rely on tripod? Well, depends on how you see it then...

Call them. There are tons of numbers available on the net by Googling. I came across Foto Selangor from Googling. Make sure they have the stock ready and make an appointment with them before you travelling to KL/PJ from Seremban.

Yeap, 17-55 indeed a solid lens. Now I understand why earlier someone mentioned it's too sharp and need to soften a bit sweat.gif laugh.gif

QUOTE(celciuz @ Jul 9 2011, 12:34 PM)
Sometimes the VR do help tongue.gif. 85mm -> 1/85 at least for rule of thumb. I can handle 1/60s consistently, but anything below that is taking risk :S.

If have VR then can easily do 1/30s like on my 70200 VR2 even at 200mm.
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Isn't the shutter speed can easily be achieved by the big aperture? laugh.gif

Can be that great? Hmm... how much superior is VRII from VR? huh.gif

QUOTE(CHOCs @ Jul 9 2011, 12:52 PM)
Hello sifus all around.

Would like to ask is it worth it to trade my AF-S NIKKOR 18-105mm 3.5-5.6G ED with a TAMRON 17-50mm f/2.8?

i heard theres two types of the TAMRON 17-50mm. what are the differences?
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It depends on what you're shooting the most and also the kind of "effect" that you want in your shot. f/2.8 can do bokeh, although not that much but definitely better than the 18-105. Sharpness wise I'm not sure, but do you have flashgun? 18-105 is magical with flash biggrin.gif

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