i'm using perodua viva elite 1.0 auto..all these while using PERODUA ENGINE OIL (SEMI syns if not wrong) with the grading of 5W - 30
but my parent went n took the car and service at ENEOS using ENEOS(mineral oil) with the grading of 10W- 30

my bro complain said 10w -30 is thick for my car..the best use 5w - 30( will the car engine spoil??)
2nd thing regarding mineral oil..i know use semi syns better...but can i on the next service use back SEMI SYNS??my bro said the car engine wil give problem with FROM SEMI DOWNGRADE TO MINERAL THEN UPGRADE TO SEMI BACK

Perodua used to use 10w30 also and I dun see anyone's engine blowing up yet.. your bro is a bit too anal lah. As long as its xw-30 and changed on time it will be alright. Even if you use mobil1 but not changing the oil in 20 years will lead to problems.

means 10w - 30 is reasonable for my car? if yes then good oh..but then izit true for the DOWNGRADING N UPGRADING oil problem?? i know should not change the type of oil frequently.. should stick to the same oil the best..but this is the 1st time i using MINERAL OIL instead of SEMI..after this i will use back SEMI..its ok right?

10w is semi syn la bro .. 5w is fully syn already .. 15w ~20w is mineral .. i bet your bro know nuts about car .. no problem if you switched them once ..

Both are u wrong. Petronas 10w30 is semi but eneos 10w30 is mineral based. U can used 10w30 eneos on ur viva but highly not recommended. It recommended if ur viva > 5years. Stick to at least eneos 5w30 for ur viva, can used it until 8000km. U can used 10w30 semi from petronas. But the density is high compare to 5w30 eneos. but ok to used it. No problem. If u have any inquiry u can ask at my selling thread. I dont mind if u dont want to buy the oil but at least i happy to share the information

The 10W-30 and 5W-30 has the same oil thickness level. It doesn't really matter which you use. As the number increase say 40, 50 or even 60, the thickness of the oil increases too. Remember, thicker oil provides better protector but fuel consumption & pick up will suffer a little bit.

The 10W or 5W shows the oil tolerance level against freezing. Here in Malaysia, we practically don't really bother about the front numbers as our weather is hot through out the year.

No Worries about the 10 30 oil ...

that engine oil still can be use

tq for everyone reply..at least that oil is usable..mostly i will use till 4,000km then enough edi then i will use back those SEMI syn oil..tq everyone

Yap. W = winter but 5w and 10w thickness,density , kinematic viscosity and vi is not same. Big diff.

but then izit acceptable in my case?? if yes then i will use it until 4k then i service..if no then i service it soon?

It is perfectly acceptable, as long as its real new oil and not recon used oil..that's why it is good to service at SC.. pirated oil damaged alot of reputation for brands such as shell, castrol

If u read the manual on page 28-4* engine oil grades it will show 5w30, 10w30 are usable..


*just kidding..u have to look up the right page

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 18 2011, 11:31 PM

my workshop all ej-de or ej-ve from myvi , kelisa , viva 1.0 all use 10w30
no problem so far
only use 5w30 oil ur engine will more rev happy
but not to the point vtec alike la
wait 5k then change no need change early

okok..then i feel safer a lot edi from hearing u guys

Actually the first 2 number/letter, 5w-30 or 10w-30 is not applicable for our tropical climate. These figures show how the oil actually flows under extreme low temperature. We Malaysians will just need to focus more on the last 2 digit which is 30, 40, 50 0r even 60.

small cc engine can tolarate low viosious oil

erm any recommendation in engine car oil for my saga blm ?

mind to recommend me some brand ?

then can used 0w50?
some part u are wrong..
W = winter, this show how well the engine is lubricate during cold start.. but it also show the density and thickness of the oil itself.

---

Added on May 19, 2011, 7:06 pmused ENEOS, if cant find it try Castrol magnatec, if hard to find try petronas.

This post has been edited by gagak_84: May 19 2011, 07:06 PM

I read from this website ages ago & that fellow said:-

"I can't tell you how many times I have heard someone, usually an auto mechanic, say that they wouldn't use a 5W-30 motor oil because it is, "Too thin." Then they may use a 10W-30 or SAE 30 motor oil. At engine operating temperatures these oils are the same. The only time the 5W-30 oil is "thin" is at cold start up conditions where you need it to be "thin."

The "W" affects the oil flow only during cold start & usually at -5C & below. Our temperature hardly even reach below 25C. That is why I will usually ignore the "W" label. If we're in the States or some snowy mountains, then we can emphasize on the "W" label.

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

This post has been edited by Thrust: May 19 2011, 07:14 PM

yup.. thats true.. how about 0w40 and 0w50.. can it be used to normal engine?

Not suitable for small cc engines like Kelisa, viva & kancil... Those small cc engines needs xW-30 engine oil. This is because their small engine don't really generate much power & using thicker oil like 40 & 50 will make the engine even sluggish.

40 & 50 can be used for normal engine like Wira, Waja & usually 1.3liter engine and above.

Actually it depends on individual, the thicker the oil, the more protection it gives to your engine. That is why Castrol has SAE60 grade oil for maximum protection.

Petronas 0w30 can be used on Viva?

Of course it can be used on Viva...

ok la.. this is what the correct one..

the thicker oil are not protecting ur engine.. it just how to solve the problem.
valve seal problem, oil decreasing too much, tappet issues and etc..

low cc engine normally like viva used w30.. either 10w30 or 5w30.. BUT not 0w30

the low the xW number , the oil is very thin.. thats mean.. DO NOT USED 0w30 on VIVA... no one in malaysia used 0w30 on their viva..

high cc engine better used 40,50 or 60 - because the engine generate more heat during running.. the number mean the engine oil operating temperature.

0w,5w,10w,15w,20w is as what u explained above but it also tell the level of the oil it selves.

if u using 0w50,0w20 on the normal and low cc engine (except hybrid car), ur car will KO faster.. aircond also sometimes cold and not (because engine also drive the aircond), more leaks.. head leaks, white smoke, SLUGGISH and etc..

ok this example ;

20w50 - for old car.. > 10years which is have white smoke (valve seal ) problem
10w30 - for low cc engine (kenari/kelisa/viva) but this car also can used 5w30..
10w40 - recommended for car > 5 years but it also can be used on new car, also can be used on old car if the user maintain to used it.
5w30 - recommended for new car
5w40 - recommended for new car which prefer performance
0w20 - hybrid car
0w50 - high performance car, new engine,good maintenance...

This post has been edited by gagak_84: May 19 2011, 07:56 PM

I lazy to explain already brother... Please refer here:-

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php

no need to explain. i know
u find one viva used 0w for me. with that.. u will know, car with <1000cc engine can used 0w or not.. and why prius and hybrid car need to used 0w and cannot 5w

torco is my personal favourite, the MPZ damn cun

what i know is, dont buy fully syn castrol and think it is a very good oil cos its not, it is fully synthetic from grade 3 base oil, superior fully syn comes from grade 4 and 5

fully synthethic confirm from group 4 or 5 right? are u sure?

not really. castrol got fully syn but from group 3. torco, royal purple, amsoil are examples of group 4 and 5. redline is group 5

point being, cant depend on the word "fully syn" only if good engine oil is a concern

what about liqui moly 10w-40 then?
which group?
tq.

Group 3 +
but the quality is SL (2001 grade) low quality .. current quality is SM at least.

API SM has higher requirements for the lubricants to meet such as superior engine performance, protection and cleanliness as compared to the requirements of API SL.mproved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil.
+ the engine oil is hard to turn black and can go KM and better engine protection.

What do you keep repeating the same incorrect information?? Why Viva cannot use 0W?? 0W don't even apply to us in hot weather country with no winter!!!!
0W30 or 5W30, has no difference to us. And please show source saying Prius MUST USE 0W oil. What i know is Toyota, recommend 0W20...the figure behind is important...and 5W20 can be use as well, what is not recommended is 30 oil, regardless it it 0W30 or 5W30. It is only applicable if got winnter coz will affect start up in cold condition.

For someone who sells oil...your knowledge is all screwed up...

hmmm.. i know what W means.. W = Winter
your knowledge is the one screwed up..

better u check at the prius manual..

but in engineering
SAE viscosity grade 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W
Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear stress or tensile stress. In everyday terms (and for fluids only), viscosity is "thickness" or "internal friction". Thus, water is "thin", having a lower viscosity, while honey is "thick", having a higher viscosity. Put simply, the less viscous the fluid is, the greater its ease of movement (fluidity)

good luck..

OMG...the number behind means the viscosity...what engine oil temperature!! The number are to show the viscoscity of the oil at 100C/210F (all the ratings are based on this temperature). And the number with 'W' indicates the vicoscity level in cold temperature (there's a range for each ratings, 0W means can take the lowest temp...forgot the actual range, but it's all in the negative area)...and it only affects the cold start up in the cold countries. Once engine warm up to operating temp, the 'W' rating is meaningless and you look at the second number.

bro.. SAE bro.. SAE.. dont make u look stupid here..

You talked, but you STILL DON'T UNDERSTAND WHAT THE 'W' MEANS.

Everyone tries to tell you, but you don't listen...

---

Added on July 7, 2011, 4:53 pmYes. SAE....and what does SAE indicates???

This post has been edited by Matrix: Jul 7 2011, 04:53 PM

u know W is related to viscosity is related to thickness of the oil?

on firefox.. google.. find out what SAE means.. and google again and find out viscosity mean..
dont want to gaduh2 here...

HOW do you know that there's no people using 0w30 on VIVA? DO you do a statistics YOURSELF? HOW do you know that using 0w30 on normal and low cc engine will make the car KO faster? or it's just based on your own assumption?
Like what the rest of the people here know that the W stands for winter and makes no differences in our hot climate. If you say that the lower the winter number, the thinner the oil goes, WHO DOESN'T KNOW that? does it matter when the engine has reach optimum temperature?

You work in PROTON doesn't mean you know everything and please stop saying other people STUPID whereas you're the one who we're laughing at.

you again andy.. this is my last reply.. since u dont want to get a warn later from moderator.. if i prolong fight this...

andy andy andy.. i have a lot of viva customers..lot mean.. A LOT.. and viva forumers.. not one of them used 0w on their viva.. because they afraid to thin of oil will harm their engine due to engine oil leak and etc. maybe u can find someone for me used 0w on their viva for long time at least 5000km..

sorry matrix.. didnt mean to.. im really sorry.. didnt mean to say u stupid.. really sorry.

i used Pennzoil 5W-40 before, no leakage at the oil sump gasket..

change to Q8 5W-40, oil leaks at the oil sump gasket..

change gasket 2 times, problem still persist with Q8 oil..

both same grade, suppose to have same thickness rite bro crow?

why dont change the oil sump gasket?
normally leak means that valve seal leak..

leaking at oil sump area, already changed oil sump gasket 2 times but problem still persist when i used Q8 5W-40 fully syn..

previously with Pennzoil 5W-40 fully syn, no problem at all..

both oils have same grade, they should have same thickness rite? (from my understanding by reading your comments, maybe I misunderstood somewhere)

why valve seals leak pulak?

This post has been edited by Kirie: Jul 7 2011, 11:08 PM

SL doesn't mean it's low quality, alright? These API standards are only benchmark lines. So what if the oil bottle describes "exceeds API SL/SM"? Have you really tried liqui moly's oils?

By the way... the oil IS GREYISH BLACK IN COLOUR

---

Added on July 7, 2011, 10:34 pmusing a 0w30 and 5w30 is not gonna make any difference I shall say. You should take a look at a VISCOSITY CHART and have a look at 0w and 5w is at WHAT TEMPERATURE. And we willch never, ever experience none of these temperatures, not even in Genting nor Cameron.

Heck, I've even used SAE40 monogrades in my engine without any problems. These oils are better in general as they don't have polymers to stretch the viscosities. So.. where's the damage?


You've been telling the whole forum that you can't, or it's not advisable to use a 0w30 on a viva. Therefore, everyone got this wrong knowledge and follow, thus the conclusion to your facts.


No offense, but do you really know how to read the viscosity chart?


Lastly, if you agree that Liqui Moly's Oil is only at SL and is deemed lousy, here's a fact :

I respect all my Threebond customers when they say they get E oil from online sellers, at a much cheaper price than I sell my LiquiMoly and Qmax. However, the moment they pour a bottle of liqui moly engine oil into their crankcase, I'm deemed to get return customers.

Liqui Moly retains it's oil quality even after 5-6k



dot

---

Added on July 7, 2011, 10:36 pmAnother fact?


Use too thick of an oil for engine, the oil doesnt pass through the oil channels properly.

Use too thin of an oil for engine, you lose oil pressure


Use too thick of an oil for engine, it becomes sluggish

Use too thin of an oil for an engine, premature failure and seizure due to lubricating film breaking at certain circumstances

---

Added on July 7, 2011, 10:38 pmAnswer is NO. Because 0w50 is too thick for viva. That's common sense. If 0w30 I'd happily agree

This post has been edited by ThunderGod_Cid: Jul 7 2011, 10:38 PM

I dont get why so much hatred for liqui moly...
There is one bmw expert in kota damansara that pours liqui moly for his clients... If its really bad why would he use it on beemers?
Checking the forums online, many 911 owners in us /uk also pour it for their cars...

So, why te hatred?

You flushed the engine already . You know what to try next lol.

Haha, indeed. In fact i was able to source the mos2 addictive, just poured it in today. The car feels smoother n lighter. Im eager to try out LM 10-40....

But i dont get it why some are blindly against a brand....? Are the germans that dumb to create something that is inferior than, even petronas...

as i mentioned in the other oil thread. It's all about advertising.

The MOS2 additive is what makes the engine oil a tad pricey compared to their competitors. And also do note that the 5w40 Synthoil fully synth from Liquimoly do not have MOS2.. hence I carry Qmax as it performs much better.

Or well.. maybe there were just plain dumb =.=

yo elton, you think is it worth it for my car to try semi syn? wanting that extra kick on the engine on the next maintenance, which is around 800ish km more

engine leak at oil sump it because of the gasket.. not because of the oil..normally if u have white smoke problem.. cause by valve seal leak.. sometimes they called it engine leak...

---

Added on July 8, 2011, 12:02 pmthe different between API SM and SL.

http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/origin...p/pc/index.html

choose API SM and compare with API SL and SJ..

there is other API.. but not in the software.
API SN and SG


This post has been edited by gagak_84: Jul 8 2011, 12:02 PM

I saw a youtube recently...once guy claims he worked in Suzuki,....then put some snake oil into someone's engine ( he sells the snake oil) and claims it is "TOP OVERHAUL DONE IN 15 MINUTES"....The poor sucker who kena con (brand new Inspira) got white smoke coming out of his car oready...

These are the kind of people who claims they work in so and so big motor company...but knows next to NOTHING. LOL.

---

Added on July 8, 2011, 9:05 pmw- related to viscosity in WINTER DEGREE MEANING below 0C(there is an actual range for each ratings, but i forgot) you dumb arse! You got see snow in Malaysia or not???
And it usually only applies to cold start coz that's where the oil fails to give protection in cold freezing condition.

And please do some googling on what is SAE. You have absolutely no freaking idea.

Here, see if you brain this or not. Free info for your lazy arse.

http://www.ideas4ag-ed.com/uploads/3/7/0/4...l_viscosity.pdf

---

Added on July 8, 2011, 9:19 pmBecause your customer have been brainwashed by your stupidity(or vice versa) and the chain of ignorance continue from one user to another like a disease.

This post has been edited by Matrix: Jul 8 2011, 09:19 PM

looks like my long post of right facts went unread =.=

huh this fella aa, i've been observing long time already. since he started his business here, every thread in technical talk he'll drop his comments. very2 active nowadays. like nothing to do besides commenting.

i rather buy Qmax with Elton even the price tag is RM2xx over E brand. go to hell No 1 in japang or not.

and go to hell also with ur qualification. u're not a registered engineer anyway. have u registered with the board? no? exam? haven't taken? no Ir? so? why so arrogant?

I'm a Quantity Surveyor. but i'm not a registered QS. not registered with Board of Quantity Surveyors Malaysia. not an Sr (Surveyor), Ar (Architect), Ir )(Engineer). so? even i know how to do QS work, there are still a lot of things to be learnt. and maybe someone out there with no qualification in QS knows about construction. and i still can learn something from him.

aiyoo..u aa...adoi..x tau mcm mana mau cakap aa.
ni la masalahnya klu asek nak tunjuk pandai, drop comment sana sini, bla3. baik duduk, diam. lg bgs. klu pandai pun, senyap2 dah la. org klu betul2 professional, xde buat perangai mcm ni.

Wah so 'rugi' not registering with ISM bro... currently can get Sr without exam . Who know later they'll revoke the reuqirement to get Sr title - with exam.

But you may have the same reason as I am - ANNUAL FEE

cold start at cold temperatures referring to the viscosity chart, not 'malaysian' chart.


lol

because it snows in malaysia. thats why.

2 place in shah alam have snow what

btw, for single grade oil, is it tends to freeze in cold weather (read snowy winter)?

i'll change to wtf after u change to gagap,sengap,bingai & bodopiang.

hey elton, come on, u're not engineer man. u enjin nyior. u know what is enjin nyior? hahaha..remember u're an ordinary guy? preventive guy? u're not engineer man. not an Ir. u know nothing dude. same goes to me. all i know is dropping provocative and negative comments only. not like him. he has done quite a number of contribution in Automotive world. just keep ur mouth shut la elton. (my mouth also)

alamak..registered civil engineer who designed structures which fail after some time also can be considered as professional. f**cking consultant who designed anything related to their field also sometimes fail and cikai also. they to have the Ar, Ir and Sr. but they're still human.

bye. tgk blue lg best.

eh neotoxin, dkt mana di shah alam yg ada salji tu. aku duk s.alam jgk. xpernah nmpk pun?

xpyhlah register dgn ism. esk2 la bila ada firm qs sndiri. setakat keje kuli batak dgn org, xnak ler aku register heh heh heh..

where is your post bro?
link plz.
TQ.

eh, another thing. i realized after checking out the stock in tesco.
tescos castrol magnatec 10-40 is sl rated. and i then went online to check out a few sites from uk . mobil uk's semi syn 10-40 is sl rated. so is castrol uk semi syn , its sl rated. hell, even amsoil semi syn is sl rated.

source for mobil :
http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/care...-x1-10w40.aspx#

source for castrol semi syn :
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-752-castrol-ma...ew-product.aspx

source for amsoil semi syn :
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1045-amsoil-sy...amo-10w-40.aspx


so , from this i can conclude :
1.malaysian packed lubricants are actually higher spec'ed
2. nothing wrong in using sl rated oil since it still seems to be the widely available oil in a country where they even tax the car owner for emission and co2 amount.

castrol SN already..

xphr34k : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1882978/+40#

click on post # and copy the link from popup lol

hi gaga_84.. my car currently using Castrol magnatec...
but after 2k ,my car start eat minyak hitam...
why ah ?

not suitable.. used 15w40.. if eat minyak hitam also... used 20w50

Bukan kalau dah mula makan minyak hitam, means, the piston ring there dah haus ke? Changing to thicker oil doesnt mean the problem is solved right? Plus, usin thicker oil makes ur engine...heavy, no?

Bukan ke better to fix the issue instead?

betul tu.. selalu valve seal jer.. tak sampai piston ring...
guna thicker oil will not solve the problem but will reduce the problem... for the moment used 15w40 or 20w50

and why not the piston rings?

do u understand selalu = normally? im not saying it not caused by piston rings.

selalu = always

biasanya = normally?

okla...

selalu valve seal je cause problem.. piston ring bukan selalu..

thanks., learnt something new today

what do u learn?

i think u misunderstand there thundergod_cid
normally if makan minyak hitam it caused by valve seal.. but the possibility to piston ring to worn out is still there..
but normally only valve seal need for replacement.. based on my experience watching my friends,workshop and mine do top overhaul.. most of them dont change piston rings..but better check piston ring condition when u take out engine head.. but u can replace it if u want to do so even though the piston ring is still ok....

piston rings are a wear and tear item. sooner or later you'll have smoke through the exhaust... if not, breather pipe on top of the cam cover.

Piston may be slapping due to loose rings, bore may be eating up, etc.

thats y check the piston ring condition when take out the head.. if dont have problem no need to replace.. same thing for water pump fins... if the water pressure is still ok there is no need to replace it.. if owner have money.. just change it both.

this is how you'lls care the customer most. Why not just do a simple compression test before taking the head off? It's no guarantee that the rings are okay even if you try to move the pistons to check for slappings.

tuhan kilat..

we are talking about during overhaul.. why suddenly want to do basic compression check? YES, it will better to do compression check first..
during overhaul also u can check the piston whether got slapping or not, or you can check piston goyang or not..
when makan minyak hitam.. confirm u want to change valve seal.. physical check at piston is to confirm.
sometimes not all mechanic and workshop have the tools.

anyway if want to discuss about this better put another thread..

This post has been edited by gagak_84: Jul 12 2011, 05:10 PM

I'd trust a compression dry and wet test before performing a top overhaul anytime over trying to move your piston around. For all you know you may be losing 10psi per cylinder whilist the pistons are still tight.

what is the normal pressure during compression test.. is it the same for all engines?

~180 psi?

not same for all engines mind you

hahahaha i enjoy this post....

yeah i really enjoy...

im just always near to the engine which makes me engine-near