More like a travel pouch for your compact cam!

Anyways, it's a scam cause Sony Malaysia says they did not organize anything like that!

damn it!

Dear Sir/Madam,
You may have received an email entitled, 'My Sony Cyber-shot Customer Survey' that was sent out on 28/4/2011.

We are currently investigating this incident. Please ignore the email receieved prior to this one.

We sincerely apologize for the inconvenienced caused.


Yours sincerely,

My Sony Team
Sony (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

got that too, lol

well, a cybershot TX can also be a good travelling premium
much more travel-size than our alphas

i think it's more like a prog error..
investigate lol..

hope later can get camera haha

Guys, i recently sent some photos for printing...i usually edit my photos in LR. So when i sent out to print, the photo's color doesn't match/not the same with color of the photo. I turns warmer and darker. The shop guy said since i adjusted the brightness, contrast and so on, when the machine's read its, it interprates the algorithm in a different manner. Thus he said, don't do any brightness/contrast adjustment in my photos...sent it as it is....anyone experienced this be4?

Did you send it to a professional lab to print or just a normal photo shop? Most probably it's a case of your monitor not being calibrated correctly and thus the colours are not accurately represented.

Also most regular photo shops have a default setting in their machine that may not turn out the colours like you want them. Also their machine may not be correctly calibrated either.

Professional labs will have a properly calibrated machine and WILL NOT ADJUST their clients photos in any way. They just print it as is and retain all the settings sent in by the client. Thus it falls on the client to properly calibrate their monitors and editing software. Professional labs also will change their processing chemicals regularly and that's why they are expensive.

By the way, that's what I heard lar... I have not sent in any of my prints to a truly professional lab. Budget issue mah...

normally even the photo shop staff will edit the pic to print..
but i tried that kodak machine turn to abit warm.. manual edit and print is ok..

need depends on shop also..

erm if just normal printing shop, they put in their machine, the machine WILL auto calibrate unless u ask them to turn it off... (which most shop dont even know can turn off!) just turn ur photo around, look at the last 6 digit of some random words there (something like 2 N W 3 3 *, the first 4 should be N N N N for for non calibrate (N N N N 3 *), calibrated will result in numbers and diff alphabet (wiki for what those alphabet means)

Pro Lab do not touch ur setting unless u tell them to adjust calibration. but most i know, they will auto add 10% brightness as default in the machine...

nowaday laptop have SUPER BRIGHT ABCDE lcd... so... the file data is actually darker then the LCD, so usually another 10% boost to the photo.

This post has been edited by ieR: Apr 28 2011, 08:01 PM

from ytd's shoot...



C&C please

8tvt, errr susah explain, wait i finish my advance workshop material, meet u in KL workshop lor

Newbie: depends, there is 2 type of TC, the generic, and the specific/high end one.

the generic one has only 3 or 4 glass, optically, its average, most-all lens can use (mount specific la)

sony one is the high end one, (and the minolta old one), they have 7 optic glass inside with 2 group, so they are high quality TC (min lost in IQ). but because of the space required for the glass, Not ALL lens can be used.

for AF< sony TC has both body motor bypass gear and electronic board mount, so it works for screw/SAM/SSM and 3rdparty, HSM/USD.

for generic TC AF, check with the manual.

ieR
wah susah ar? no wonder cannot get the answer.. (tried search those but failed)

i thought it's basic..
i can trial and error but still want to know how the function works..
normal GN guideline seems not right if involve the level and zoom..

the calculation is complicated, but i can give u a general one, which is GN = distance × f-number.

but for sony, its, given condition of F1, iso100, flashzoom105, and its 58meter.

the above is about how far it can reach*

but for "how far the effectiveness" is totally diff thing! there is calculation of light fallout...

i give u a PEEK if u understand...



from the photo, lets study it.... (rayng will be happy on this)

u see i wrote F16 nearest to the flash, because that is the most intense light gathered, F16, iso100, so if u shoot bugs(incest, macro), and the flash is that near, if u set F11, ur photo will be overexpose by 1 stop, F16 is the accurate reading.

carry down, F8,..... F5.6.... F4... now, at F4 area, is where u set ur camera at F4, iso100, ur subject will be nicely lit!

now, new key point, u notice that, F4 area is larger then F8, that is light fallout, the distance it traveled, the light get less and less and less. right? light fall out also cause shadow fall out, the further u are, the slower the shadow fall out, if nearer u are to the source (F8 area) the faster the shadow fallout, hence harsher shadow (aka "burning tool")

now, here is something u must learn to ur advantage! knowning the light fallout lengthen after a distance... so if u tried to do a wedding portraiture with 2 person, or family group portraiture, by putting a distance of the flash give one advantage... let's see

if the group photo of 3 people, if i place them at point F8, F5.6 and F5.6, u will notice the first person is overly expose by 1 stop. but if i place the 3 at F4 placing, they are similiar within the F4 stop.

from the above statement, u learn this, when u shoot someone A with direct flash another person B is 2 step behind, u notice B is 1 or 2 stop under then the person A! if u take few more step back, and shoot, because of the light fallout lengthen, even the B is 2 feet behind the A guy, both will result in same exposure(more or less)

imagine the photo above is extended to 15 meter wide wall(sorry la, my house fence wall is short) and my flash power is set to full blast (forgot to mention the above blast is only 1/16)... then understand the below part...

that why, shoot group photo, or single portrait, within 3 meter distance, its easily have darken background,
but when shoot a stage event (10-15 meter away), the direct flash seem gentle on the peoples on stage... because the light is evenly spread over at that distance (10-15meter)...

sorry if i am bad in explaning... but try to catch it

for those who wonder, i never joined joemacnally or louis pang workshop (only attend sony basic workshop once, and now i am a trainer for them ), all this is some logical thing i notice during my photography journey, i got this understanding/idea of light at only 10 months into DSLR.... btw, the thing i mention above, i never seen any, ANY book has written them yet. and i believe a lot ppl will damn blur what the hell i talking about >.<

This post has been edited by ieR: Apr 28 2011, 09:30 PM

owww. vivitar 1.4x AF is low end?

errr i dunno, should be? a generic type?, all lens can use... snap picture of it show us here la

http://www.alphanatics.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=22755
This

wah ieR thanks for the effort..
isn't that the GN base on F4 and iso100?

i get what u mean...hehe...now i feel my flash isnt that hard to use compared to it before repair...damn good...but i got no idea what creative thing i can do with my flash..i also want to try out creative flash with only a single F42..

my attempt to be so-called creative..


DSC08566 by WeiQiPhotography, on Flickr

This post has been edited by ahpingko: Apr 28 2011, 09:55 PM

Thanks, after reading it for a few times... I understand it now! LVL UP! new lesson learnt! Will be trying it out soon

need to go to more of your flash workshops when I get back. NEED MORE KNOWLEDGE ON STROBING!

ieR: tqvm... i face a problem, after i read, then after sometime, i forgot. i didn really get into strobing until now. XP