snipe : my reservoir got the bling bling factor or not ?

confirm want ????
if yes pls add me to MSN : weeseng85@hotmail.com

special price for LYN watercooling geng!!!!

i see many many pins or what structure is that anyway ???
no more jet design anymore ????
it seemed that larger surface still does the trick in waterblock design.


oh ya, the reservoir. i have got acrylic pipes, in 80mm OD and 100mm long.
can do any design with the end cover. it's for customization

anybody knows what's the size of the tubing for Vantec Stingray set ?

amok : the acrylic pipe is 80mm in diameter (outer) and 100mm long.
can custom design the end covers to suit u

solid ones ???
i guess have to order in one whole tube around 2m, no spare quantity

that place can leak ???
that's weird, coz the acrylic cover doesnt crack that easy and that type of mounting is still considered as safe for watercooling pressure

theoretically, at same RPM, tri-blade should be less noisy.
but it still comes to motor design and the RPM.


congrats !!!....

another victim !!!!

change the pump also useless coz the waterblock is the problem coz it's way too thick and it stores so much heat and it wont release it into the water.

so congrats again !!

panaflo is undeniably silent than NMB.

hmm......the panasonic website is displaying NMB fans.....what's happening man.

i can get the pump at RM 25 at my place.
wanna bulk it ?


the top cover is a plastic ??? i tot it was a cast Alu cover....damn.....

proc gone,water block melted !!!!

This post has been edited by AllnGap: Nov 28 2005, 02:19 AM

know why it's all Alu ?
coz copper rads dunt get corroded easily like Alu ones........those refridgerators rad never got leakage problem at all man.

this is just a part of it, like car air-cond, usualy the mechanics will not vacuum the whole cooling system before pumping in the gas, thus the moisture from air will corrode Alu.

my bro told me that his aircond factory actually purposely use metal U bend for the joints in the radiator, so it will leak at the U bend just right after the warranty period is over

the same applies to car radiators, coz they are meant to be changed.
AFAIK, for the same amount of cooling effect, fully copper rad will function better and work longer, it's so long lasting that mechanics boycott the copper rad

10k L/h my god.....better change to Grundfos pumps that can pump 10psi of pressure

yea. my bad. the " l " was too close to the number

i think the more pressure-friendly setup is to pump water without any interruption to the highest point and let it flow down.

the theory is the same, like putting an elbow directly at the pump outlet will kill the pressure immediately due to the immediate decceleration after the pump is pumped out.

what do u think almostthere ?

ikan semilang : ur watercooling set can fly like aeroplane after using that tubing

anyway, i can get the 2800, just pm me if u want to get them alrite !!

this is nice...... hey do you know why i retracted my design ?
i found one very serious flaw on it....

the flaw is the sticking of the pipe to the end acrylic cover.
if there's no force acting on the end acrylic, then it will remain very rigid, if not the end section will just give way because it's not strong.

to me the safest leak proof design would be the end cover must have a round ditch like this |_| to hold the round acrylic and the whole thing is sticked together.....

i know what you mean, just to be on the safe side, the end cover must be concealed about 50% of the end acrylic's thickness into the end acrylic cover just to prevent flexing/torsion to the end cover which will peel open the joint easily.