yup
that why they change dump to me
haha

yup exactly, the sound become so obvious when doing quick acceleration and braking... u know what's the part name?

All those links are for sale of replacement FRONT discs (esp in BLMs)...NOT for conversion of Rear Drums to Discs. Sorry...

omara, usually when changing absorber/coil ppl also change the mounting/bushing together...i dun think really expensive around 250 like that...

This post has been edited by xshiro: Jun 4 2011, 07:29 PM

Yup, agreed!
When I'd to change the front abs of my ole ride, the mech told me it's sensible to also change all parts needed to install the new abs...mainly cos by that time, those parts also hardened & abt to KO!

That will also save the cost of having to change them at a later date. Economy of time, labour & $$$!

thx for the feedback... haizzz... need to fork out more money... hheheheheh...

btw wat's the side effect if i use my car in current state.. will another prob come out later?

guys...
where can i find thread discussing about FL bodykits n accessories?

tomorrow i gonna go to SC for 1000KM services,what is the best cylinder oil for FL?

mine is 1.3 FL Auto Executive - Blue Rock...

This post has been edited by -=ProtozuaqS=-: Jun 4 2011, 08:47 PM

bro i had the problem earlier i went to sc and check and found out my subframe cracked,got it replaced,each time accelerate and brake got kruk sound,not sure about yours tough

Wow, dat 1 critical ka? Make me saspen now..

haha....actually first they taught faulty absorber so they replace cause that time under warranty,later when i drove back the same problem,i brought back after a long check they found out the subframe cracked.hopefully yours not subframe.

how long does the mounting last? is it the same as the absorber?

accident ke?

i might also need to change engine mounting d...the thing harden and drop so now my steering vibrate like mad is it considered wear and tear? can claim at sc a?



This post has been edited by kibs: Jun 4 2011, 10:52 PM

Dun really kno wat's BEST engine oil...got differing views here.

However, most BLMers agree on (and most SCs supply) 10W40 grade oil.
In theory, "best" oil is supposedly Fully-Synthetic oils of recommended grade which is partly based on country's temp. We don't hv winter so the "W" part is not so important & the User Manual states .../50 grade oil.

Frankly, I am also confused since this issue has been raised in forums and most rec Semi-synthetic & saying Fully-synthetic not suitable.

Wonder wat Proton tech ppl hv 2say abt this issue...??

nop not sure how it cracked....may be manufacturing defect

wait, i just checked, our car is monocoque, got subframe meh?

don't know thats what the mechanic at sc told me,actually they didn't have the expertise to do it,they had to bring my car to shah alam,it seems there got professional...luckily they solved the problem thank god if not i would have gone crazy

i think lower arm bush or balljoint has spoilt not subframe.....

+1

haha....may be lah bro since ericmaxman said blm is monocoque,the mechanic themselves don't know what has been replaced i wonder how are they going to solve problem for the others