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 Old skool shaving, Best and closest shave ever

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TScarbman
post Feb 28 2011, 12:36 AM, updated 15y ago

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Hi Guys.

Just would like to share some insights on shaving (facial hair, that is!).

My occupation prefers (but does not require) me to be clean-shaven, and until recently, I've had trouble with shaving. Mind you, I'm hitting 31 this year, so I'm no newbie to razor burns, nicks and cuts.

I used to use multi-bladed cartridge shavers (Gillete, Shick, Bic) with canned spray-foam. A summary of my problems:

1. I ALWAYS had razor burns in order to attain a near- 'baby-smooth-shave'. This prevented me shaving daily as my face needed healing time.

2. Shaving cartridge blades are expensive. RM10 per cartridge for a Mach 3.

3. Due to no.2 above, I tend to use the blades longer (like a week or two) before changing them. This dulled the blades, causing further 'no.1' problems.

4. Sometimes, I got ingrown hairs (yuk)



Anyway, went searching for an alternative, and the first thing I did was change the foam. From canned-spray, I started using home-made shaving soaps, mixed into a thick, luxurious lather with a shaving brush. This was OK, I got less of the burns, but the shave quality was still S***.

So, I got myself my first ol-skool double-edged razor. Was the only one available, less than RM10 per razor, and about RM2 per pack of 5 blades. First shave was horrible. Scarry as hell. Thanks to the internet and practice, got me a good routine going, and got closer shaves than was ever possible with a cartridge razor.

By now, I managed to source real shaving soap. It really makes a mockery of the 'whipped-cream' sold in supermarkets.

But I wanted to grow up, and get a proper DE razor. Never found one in KL. Even Acca Kappa doesn't stock 'em. I thought that with all the cheap blades being sold everywhere (mostly at Indian grocery shops), one would easily find a quality DE razor. Was wrong. Best I could find was an RM4 made in China number that tried to carve my face off!

Anyway, long story short, I got my Edwin Jagger DE89 and got me the closest shave ever. Really, a BBS! No bleeding, no razor burn, and no stinging while putting aftershave.

I now shave everyday, and I S*** you not, its actually enjoyable!

Here's my gear:

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Shaving soap and brush:
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This post has been edited by carbman: Feb 28 2011, 05:20 PM
TScarbman
post Feb 28 2011, 12:45 AM

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QUOTE(kuzgo @ Feb 28 2011, 12:41 AM)
Just out of curiousity, if you had so much trouble shaving before, how come you didnt just use an electric shaver?
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Electric shavers don't work for me either. It actually gives me worse razor burns than a cartridge razor. And the shave is never close enough, IMO.

TScarbman
post Feb 28 2011, 01:33 AM

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QUOTE(Chuckieee @ Feb 28 2011, 12:48 AM)
Have you ever try:
user posted image
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That's a straight razor. For people with steady hands and balls of steel! cool2.gif Damn cool. Would probably try that in the future. Only thing is that it needs sharpening. CONSTANTLY!


Added on February 28, 2011, 1:43 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Feb 28 2011, 12:53 AM)
I use a cheap electric razor and never looked back. The shave isn't close but even the closest shave would look like what I get from the electric razor by noontime anyway.

I like the tone of this thread, sometimes we think progress is made with MACH100 and stupid shit they try to get the public to upgrade to, but sometimes our grandfathers have got the problem solved more elegantly, more sensually, and more effectively than any marketing-driven organization like Gillette, or just as bad (with food), Nestle and Kraft. You see this a lot in bespoke tailoring where innovation is actually a regress, not progress.
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Hi kotmj! I've read your threads on shoes, tailoring and suitmaking. Really informative! One way I could describe a DE shave in terms you could relate to would be comparing a fused, RTW Padini suit to a fully canvassed masterpiece. brows.gif One would be able to know the benefits once one has tried. Heck....I even shave on weekends now!

About late day stubble, I get 'em really late now, much around the time I contemplate 'cabut'-ing from work (around 5-ish). Results vary, but if you're good with an electric shaver and your face can handle it, you'll be awesome with a DE razor.

And yeah, Gillette has spawned a 5-blade razor:

user posted image

They seem to add a blade every 4 years or so!


Added on February 28, 2011, 1:48 am
QUOTE(gregy @ Feb 28 2011, 01:22 AM)
Hey TS, mind sharing where you got that Edwin Jagger?
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Got it online. Tried as I might, alas, I couldn't find any good ones locally. I'm beginning to think those who still buy the blades (readily available everywhere) are barbers. The cheap DE razors are almost lethal.

This post has been edited by carbman: Feb 28 2011, 05:21 PM
TScarbman
post Feb 28 2011, 09:04 PM

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QUOTE(attacusatlas @ Feb 28 2011, 07:43 PM)
i am using this currently:

user posted image
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Does it use a mach 3 cartridge head?

TScarbman
post Mar 1 2011, 12:19 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Feb 28 2011, 10:03 PM)
carbman, what brand of blade do you use in the EJ?


Added on February 28, 2011, 10:25 pmI feel a sudden and intense longing for my own EJ after reading online reviews of it. It's sounds like the best razor made in human history.
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Word on the street is that different faces respond differently to different blade-razor combinations. I haven't tried ordering blades from the net yet (would I have any trouble with customs?), but have heard rave reviews concerning Derby blades. Its recommended that one tries a sampler pack (around USD10) to choose the most suitable for one's own needs.

That said, I've tried Gillette Nacet, Topaz, Bic, and some other cheaper blades. Best so far are the Bics. Very smooth.


Added on March 1, 2011, 12:25 am
QUOTE(jonny4 @ Mar 1 2011, 12:04 AM)
@carbman,

currently i am using my late grandfather's Gillette Super Adjustable (fr 1960s or 1970s). single blades rock n i don't get those irritating shaving bumps/acne anymore. I don't have much facial hair so for shaving I use Shiseido Men Shaving Cream or Shiseido Men Cleaning Foam (doubles up as shaving foam).

I am using Gillette Super Nacet blades...bought a new pack fr mamak sundry shop last week. Super Nacet still in production ? What blades do u use for your Edwin Jagger ?
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Yes, super Nacet is still in production, methinks. BTW, your razor has some rave reviews....don't ever sell it off (unless it to me lah) tongue.gif

This post has been edited by carbman: Mar 1 2011, 12:26 AM
TScarbman
post Mar 1 2011, 09:03 AM

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QUOTE(shark7 @ Mar 1 2011, 12:34 AM)
actually is there anyway to prevent the mostache and beard growing ??

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Shave lah.


Added on March 1, 2011, 9:05 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Mar 1 2011, 12:40 AM)
I wonder if the shaving performance suffers because we here in Malaysia typically do not have hot running water in the taps. Do you use warm water from the shower water heater?
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I find that prepping the hairs on my face with a hot towel makes a CONSIDERABLE difference. But I leave that for mornings when I'm really free. At the very least, just splash on some hot water some minutes before the shave.

Google "Kyle's Prep".




This post has been edited by carbman: Mar 1 2011, 09:05 AM
TScarbman
post Mar 2 2011, 12:52 AM

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QUOTE(shark7 @ Mar 1 2011, 11:33 PM)
ya i know..tired of shaving ..just few days it will grow back
the more u shave the faster it grows
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Same like bathing lah. U just gotta do it. I loathed shaving before. Not anymore.

TScarbman
post Aug 18 2011, 09:33 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 12 2011, 02:40 PM)
some time back tried buying my first shaving set from the english shaving company but it was a lame site that had problems processing my credit card
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Try westcoastshaving....that's where I got my gear.


Anyway, was in Barcelona lately, and found this gem of a shop there. Spanish people must take their shaving seriously!

Attached Image
TScarbman
post Sep 15 2011, 08:22 PM

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QUOTE(Yushiro @ Sep 6 2011, 04:38 PM)
1. DE Blades - 1st Floor, Haniffa Textiles, Jln Masjid India. They have a variety of blades (Sold either in single box of 5 blades or 100 blade pack). Recommended brands: Treet Platinum, BIC, Green Russian made Gillette 7'O Clock blades. Currently they have Wilkinson Sword Blades at the cashier. RM3.90 per 5 blades. Super damn good. Better go sapu before I do!

Mustafas - Singapore. I know. Its far but this place can get a lot of stuff. Look for Kai Blades.

2. Shaving soap - Sorry. Cannot find here. Take up [Top-Gun]'s offer. I have a puck of MWF. its awesome. [Disclaimer: I have no relation or know who is [Top-Gun] ]. Alternatively, you can look for Tabac Shaving Sticks in Mustafa. Very useful esp when travelling

3. Shaving Cream - Ah, here we are a bit luckier. Haniffa's has Godrej Shaving creams, Denim and German made Palmolive creams. All of which are at par in terms of performance with very expensive English creams. All of them are under RM20 per tube and will last for 2 months if you shave everyday.

4. Aftershave - Apart from the Nivea balm and Denim ones, I dun recommend anything else in Malaysia. Maybe got some Body shop ones that work. Never tried. Too rich for my budget. When in Mustafa, pick up Skin Bracer aftershaves.

5. Razors - Buy online. badgerandblade.com's BST thread can get some good deals. Dun be scared about using vintage razors. They work just fine after disinfecting them.


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Haha....thought this thread was DEAD. OK....I'll storm Jln Masjid India tomolo...running outta blades. I originally bought 5-pack BICs from carrefour for like RM1.20 a box or something like that...pack of 5 boxes.

For the soap, the one that I've found here is from Acca Kappa at pavillion. Buy the refill puck if you're curious. They say its good. Cheaper still would be Crabtree & Evelyn at Midvalley or Bangsar, they sell the refill complete with a wooden boal at RM150 (around that....not sure, was a long time ago). C&E shave brush is also quite acceptable. Acca Kappas brush is something like RM400 ('silvertip' badger, no less).


Added on September 15, 2011, 8:25 pm
QUOTE(izwanz @ Sep 6 2011, 06:17 PM)
How regularly do you guys often shave?

I am keen on buying an electric shaver but I'm scared that i won't get a 'close shave'. sad.gif
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I have to shave everyday to stay non-hobbo-looking.

Don't buy the electric shaver if you think you're going to get an awesome shave. I havent tried the super-expensive ones yet, but there's NO way they could be a good-ol razor.

PS: I've fallen into the electric razor 'fad' TWICE.


Added on September 15, 2011, 8:27 pm
QUOTE(JeffxMatt @ Sep 7 2011, 04:17 AM)
damn im interested in buying Edwin Jagger DE86811bl, but they dont accept PayPal. They only accept credit cards and sadly, i dont have one...  cry.gif
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Get a Maybank account. They'll give you a VISA debit ATM card. Use it lah. Unless of course, you are under 12, which would negate the need to shave anyway.


Added on September 15, 2011, 8:29 pm
QUOTE(izwanz @ Sep 7 2011, 03:01 PM)
Do you guys shave early in the morning or night?

Those days during wartime even armies still shave using cold water -- no problem. http://www.armytimes.com/offduty/health/of..._advice_071509/
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I tried at night...much more 'aman-damai'. But not as BBS in the morning as I'd prefer. Now I shave in the mornings, but will perhaps revert to night shaving sometime soon.

Cold water shaving: no problem. Hot water shaving: better still.

This post has been edited by carbman: Sep 17 2011, 01:39 AM
TScarbman
post Sep 17 2011, 01:44 AM

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Kotmj,


that's a nice set u got. My DE89 looks almost like your DE8911, complete with the knurling at the bottom tip. Any ideas what's the difference?

And how's the shaving going? I've got 2 'best' badger brushes, but havent yet tried the silvertips.

TScarbman
post Sep 17 2011, 02:27 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 17 2011, 01:52 AM)
Apparently EJ slightly redesigned their razors in 2011 to be more head-heavy. So the DE89 becomes the DE8911. They also introduced more handle variants like barley-grain and octogonal handles.

I still use an electric razor! I just bought the stuff online today and it will take about 2 weeks before they arrive. The silvertip I bought is directly from China -- apparently they make them for several European brands. GBP 17 only!
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OOhhhh.....just ordered me a sampler pack today. Also hitching the ride will be a drip stand (for the brush), and 2 long handled EJs (brother and dad want one). Did it after I teracuned from your last post. brows.gif

Anyway, could you please point me in the right direction for the China-made silvertips? Me want one!

TScarbman
post Sep 17 2011, 09:55 PM

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This is what I use to hold my DE razors: a toothbrush holder from IKEA. Wont work for the brushes, though.

user posted image

This post has been edited by carbman: Sep 17 2011, 09:56 PM
TScarbman
post Sep 19 2011, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(Mr. Z @ Sep 19 2011, 02:28 AM)
contrary to what u think, my professors always tells me no question is stupid, but only the stupidest person would not ask questions for fear of being branded by people like you...  smile.gif
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"There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots".

PS: not my line
TScarbman
post Sep 27 2011, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Sep 27 2011, 04:29 PM)
You need some serious moisturising for your hands...
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I was going to say the same thing. Maybe his other hand is better.


Added on September 27, 2011, 9:02 pm
QUOTE(junbecks @ Sep 27 2011, 03:37 PM)
currently i'm using this shaving cream.
its really good but very sensitive to water. If theres any water on your face it wont lather.

user posted image

I hate gilette foams or creams because it makes my skin feel tight.
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R u sure its not a brushless shaving cream? There are those things out there that are brushless and are meant to be used as such. I have the soap version of the Nomad (C&E) and its OK, just so.


Added on September 27, 2011, 9:03 pm
QUOTE(ate @ Sep 27 2011, 01:28 PM)
ive been bleeding since the longest time and i have gotten used too without using any shaving foam.
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When in doubt, lubricate.


Added on September 27, 2011, 9:04 pm
QUOTE(nles @ Sep 27 2011, 12:42 PM)
Are we allowed to travel with blades. Check in baggage no problem during travel?
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I checked in all my shaving stuff with a pack of raw blades, no problem. This was to europe.


Added on September 27, 2011, 9:06 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 26 2011, 05:50 PM)
OMG my shaving set arrived, the quality of this EJ is superb! The Omega chrome stand too, is not your normal China bent wire stuff, it is of a very high quality and the EJ fits perfectly into it. The Col. Conk in amber smells delightful I can already see that shaving will be a sensual experience.


Added on September 26, 2011, 6:04 pmThis is the sort of stuff father can hand down to son. Solid brass, perfectly chromed. Classic styling.
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You like it, dontcha? This is the kinda stuff, if you ter-drop on your toes in the morning, would render you fit for an MC. The chrome gets dulled by the shaving soap residue over time. A quick rinse in hot water, followed by a gentle scrub with a terrycloth does the trick. Pics of your shaving stand, pls...

This post has been edited by carbman: Sep 27 2011, 09:06 PM
TScarbman
post Sep 28 2011, 06:33 PM

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In the midst of being jealous that Kotmj's purchase sampai but mine belum, I was delighted to see a brown box my maid signed for from the postal people. Took about 10 days.

Inside were 2 EJ DE89Ls (for my brother and dad), a brush holder, and a sampler pack of razors. These are the razors:

Attached Image

Attached Image


Just for some porn, here are my brushes, both best badger, not silvertip. Not yet.

Attached Image
TScarbman
post Sep 29 2011, 01:28 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 28 2011, 07:34 PM)
Carbman, is the lined version better?
First impression is that it grips a wee bit better than the non-textured shaft. The shaft is just as long, though. Looks-wise it just a matter of taste. The head is identical. Is this sounding too much like a sexual innuendo?

Anyway, how's the silvertip brush? Soft? My best badgers are still a bit stiff at the ends.


Bic is the best I've been able to source locally, and since you say the feathers are better, I'm gonna try em out quick. drool.gif Dont even bother with the Nacets and Lasers.

TScarbman
post Sep 29 2011, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 29 2011, 10:24 AM)
I thought the silvertips would be more syok on the mouth/chin than a nice tuft of pussihair, but it felt like any other brush. It's my first shaving brush so I have no frame of reference.
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R U absolutely sure the brush is silvertip? Or even badger, and not synthetic? I'm hoping its real, coz I also want one, especially at that price. Even B&B members have used this brush. I was a wee bit sceptical on its originality because of the waviness of the hair: my synthetic Bodyshop shaving brush does that. Try burn a few strands and see (yeah right).

If it is real, then perhaps its just a matter of "running-in" the brush. Give it some time.

I tried the Feathers, and they were sharper than the BICs, yes. I'll be trying the others in the sampler pack later on. They cost about RM3 per pack of 5, pretty much market price here, excluding shipping charges, of course. If I find one I particularly like, I might switch to that. As it is, its tough to beat the BICs at RM8+ per 6 packs, or about RM1.2 per pack. My first Feather shave hasn't converted me yet. Perhaps I was being too cautious after hearing about their legendary sharpness.

TScarbman
post Sep 29 2011, 04:24 PM

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Ah, those old skool barbers.....i'm quite certain they never dry their brushes
TScarbman
post Oct 5 2011, 07:57 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 4 2011, 11:36 PM)
OK, so I've been wet shaving everyday for a week now.

I nick myself everytime, i.e. I draw blood. Just a tiny pinprick normally, no big deal, but I prefer not to. The past 2 days it wouldn't have happened if I did not do 4 passes repeatedly. Yes, I shave against the grain. Bad idea, I know, but it is the only way to get a truly close shave.

The first 2 days I had major razor burn, but that seem to no longer occur.

Do I enjoy it? Strangely, yes. It's actually fun.

The shave is closer than what I can achieve with the electric razor, but it is not as close as I thought it would be. There is still this greyish shade to my skin around the beard areas.

Wet shaving is best done when you have all the time in the world. Having to hurry subtracts from the satisfaction of the ritual.
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Do you go ATG (against the grain) from the 1st pass? I usually manage with 3 passes, begining with WTG, followed bt WTG again and finish off with XTG. For tough spots, I emply the 'blade buffing' technique. And a proper, unhurried prep really does wonders. But having no razor burn means your technique must be on track.

TScarbman
post Oct 6 2011, 07:10 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 6 2011, 01:52 PM)
Yeah, I went ATG at first pass.

I shaved just now with your technique. 2X WTG then ATG. It works. No nicks. This is for above the chin. Below the chin, it is awkward to hold the razor to do WTG. So just ATG below the chin.

The brush is shedding hair. Like 2 hairs per use.

The BIC is seriously dull, man. I replaced my week-old Feather with a fresh BIC and guess what? The week-old Feather is SHARPER than a fresh BIC.

Dropped by Hanifa on the weekend. No Russian Gilettes there. No DE blades at the counter. But plenty of Chinese and Pakistani and Indian blades of dubious quality.

How do you dispose of your blades? They are still very sharp, and the rubbish collectors like to ruffle through the garbage in search of plastic bottles.
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WTG below the chin IS awkward. I have to change hands.

Your MIC (made-in-China) brush, I imagine it to be reasonable stiff at the base but gets floppy at the tips, yes? Mine are stiff up to the tips...not nice lah. I think I'll make an order for those MIC silvertips now.

If you think BICs are dull, you don't wanna go for Nacets, much less those made-in-India blades. There's a reason why barbers change em after a single use.

I like the slotted-tin idea of disposing blades. But so far, I've been snapping the baldes into 2, and wrapping them um with layers of newspaper. Not ideal.

I wonder how my dad and brother are doing....

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