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 The Raw Selvedge Denim Thread, Version 4

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TSGrimm
post Jul 3 2011, 10:51 PM

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I found this on HWZ. This, of course, is his opinion. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. There are two camps on washing, among denim enthusiasts. This guy is on the washing camp.

ASK THE PRO
Tips on Maintenance

Denim Works, located in Shibuya, is a shop that's trusted by serious denim collectors. They do everything from repairs and hemming with chain stitches, customizations such as downsizing the waist size and modifying the silhouette, production of original jeans and made-to-order jeans. It's an incredible shop for denim lovers looking for highly skilled help and practical advice.

The owner of Denim Works, Takashi Fukuda, who has done countless numbers of denim repairs shares his maintenance knowledge here.

1. Is it true that you shouldn't wash your jeans to get beautiful contrasts?

It is true if you are looking just for contrasts. But as you wear your jeans, sweat and grease gets inside the fabric, making it soggier and weaker against abrasion. In other words, your denim becomes prone to rip apart. So if you want your denim to last you should wash your denim often. During winter, wash your denim when it starts feeling a little damp.

2. Is it true that it's better to turn your jeans inside-out when you wash them?

If you read fashion magazines and stuff, they'll say things like, "Dry your jeans inside-out. If not your denim will get sunburned and will lose its color." But when it comes to vintage denim, it's a different story. Quite often, vintage jeans will have threads that have weakened over time. If you turn the jeans inside-out, the thread can get caught in the washing machine, causing it to tear apart. If possible, put your jeans, without turning it inside-out, inside a net before throwing it into a washing machine, then wash softly. Because it's a precious article, one might think of washing it slowly with hand... but that's going a bit too overboard. When you're drying it, don't worry about things like sunburns. For example, if you're wearing your jeans during summer, you're exposing it in the sun the whole time, yet it's never a problem. However, if you have just purchased a new denim, you would want to wash your jeans two to three times inside-out to get rid of starch.

3. Will your fabric tighten up and become more durable if you dry your denim in a dryer?

It's not like it's absolutely bad, but if you use a dryer, your fabric will shrink radically and the denim's surface will become soft. If you prefer your denim to be somewhat rigid, it's much better to dry it naturally in the sun. It will dry crisply and it also feels good to wear something that has been sitting in the sun. Drying naturally is the best.

4. Is it better to avoid detergent with bleach?

Bleach, not only will turn your whole jeans white, but will also hurt its fabric. You probably don't have to worry about detergents with just tiny amount of bleach in it. But for those who really care, it's probably better to use denim detergents specifically designed to effectively remove grease and stains. I've actually heard of people who use spring water to wash their denims to avoid small amount of chlorine that's inside tap water, but I wouldn't worry about such a small amount of chlorine.

5. I've heard I shouldn't use any detergent, but is it okay to use it when I feel like my jeans are getting too dirty?

While ago during vintage denim craze, it was said that it's cool to not wash your jeans. There was a time when people celebrated the idea of not washing and respected people who claimed "I haven't washed my jeans for one whole year." But that's just a myth and it's better to wash your jeans often. Cellulose inside sweat and grease damages the fabric. If you let your jeans go dirty for a while, it could cause your denim to tear suddenly. If you wash often, your fabric can stay in a good shape and will result in longevity.

6. If my denim rips, can I repair it myself?

If you don't screw up basic procedures, you can repair simple tears in places like the knee and the crotch. I even recommend this to customers who visit my shop. For patching, you can buy the denim from fabric stores or get them from jeans you've stopped wearing. Then all you need to do is just carefully sew using a sewing machine. If you sew along the direction of your denim's weave pattern, it'll be hard to notice the patch. Another way to do it is to use a fabric from your favorite shirt you can't wear anymore and patch your jeans up in a trendy fashion. Things like that could deepen your affection toward your jeans.

7. Take preventative measures before damage worsens. (Extra)

I'll never say things like "Store it in the drawers because it's vintage!" Vintage jeans are cool when they are worn. But of course, jeans that have been worn for years have denim fabric and threads that have become fragile. Especially cotton yarns are very prone to tears. Although you can't change this fact, it's better to take preventative measures like patching your denim early before they start to rip apart. Other than that, you can maintain your denim by washing and drying in ways that won't harm the fabric as explained in this page.

SOS: http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/showthre...659640&page=641



TSGrimm
post Jul 14 2011, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(Seul @ Jul 10 2011, 02:44 AM)
If you want to get started with Japanese denim, hit up the 2ndhand markets... Styleforum and Superfuture and even the much smaller Iron Heart forum are good sources to track down cheaper stuff, and it's mostly in excellent condition...

If you have any questions, feel free to email me at 21oz.duck ad gmail.com or add me on Google+ (Iron Heart).
*
Thanks for sharing smile.gif
TSGrimm
post Jul 17 2011, 08:17 PM

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Walked into what they hailed as the largest shopping complex in the southern hemisphere - Chadstone "The Fashion Capital" today.

Ben Sherman store. Started some small talk with the African Brit store assistant there. Then their manager comes up to me while me and girlfriend was about to leave.

"Hey mate, just wanna ask you somethin'."

"Where'd you get that jeans?"

Was wearing my Imperials with selvedge cuffed up today. He was captured by the backpocket stitching. Told him I called up a shop in Perth to get them and went on about how few stockists they have in Oz.

"And guess what.. its Australian made"

"What?!"

Lol. My gf was giggling after we were out of sight.

"An Aussie guy asking an international student like you where to get an Aussie jeans. He's probably going back to google Imperials already!"

But I realised we have Momotaro and N&F stockist here with almost a full range. My denim freak friend who's in the raw/selvedge denim industry over in Sydney showed me the store when he came over to Melbourne to visit.

PS: That store has, as well, (Off topic) a good selection of Paul Smith and Tom Ford stuff.
TSGrimm
post Jul 19 2011, 12:32 PM

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@Atta,

beautiful seude paul smith shoes. But one thing.. their huge selection is all in dark brown, grey and black. Lacking tan colours.

@Holyboyz,

There is one already I think.. mahal sial I heard. APC 200~300+ if I recall?
TSGrimm
post Jul 20 2011, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(eugeneyou @ Jul 14 2011, 08:24 AM)
Any idea how much the value of the following jeans - LVC 66501-0049

user posted image
*
No idea. Not a huge fan of LVC, but if you're really interested, I could ask around for you..
TSGrimm
post Aug 13 2011, 01:39 AM

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Ball-crushingly tight is right! Lol.

Mine is too... which will give in first? balls or denim? my crotch area is showing signs of weakness. Lots of abrasion there... afraid of a crotch burst =O
TSGrimm
post Aug 27 2011, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(mofonyx @ Aug 27 2011, 01:12 AM)
Just bought a pair of Warehouse 800 at Take5 while I was on holiday in Hong Kong

Pics of the raw denim found below on Take5's fb link. Pretty awesome pair, fits better than my Fullcount 0105C

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1...22189114&type=1

Also, managed to snap a few high res pics of my Fullcounts. Will try to post them soon.


Added on August 27, 2011, 1:16 am

Sanforized denim is also raw. Just that it's treated so it doesn't shrink. It makes sizing easier. As far as I know, Evisu makes raw sanforized denim but they are probably doing so to cater to the more 'mainstream' crowd that wouldn't buy raw that shrinks to fit (sizing is immensely difficult with such jeans)


Added on August 27, 2011, 1:18 am

You're pretty much fcuked. I don't know anyone who sizes raw denim as their 'true fit'. Raw denim (mostly unsanforized as the discussion above states) WILL SHRINK - even if you 'dry clean' it.

Cold wash at 30 oC, then wear it out without buttoning at home first. That's your best bet.
*
Warehouse? Haven't come across them before, but from what the 5 pics tell me, it looks to be a promising pair of denim. Is it Jap? The selvedge somehow doesn't look like the regular Jap denims.

Stitching looks very much like flatheads' stitch.
TSGrimm
post Aug 27 2011, 07:55 PM

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Come to think of it, I have never had truly JAP denim. There are some J-influences on the Imperial, but none that is wholesomely jap. I might try warehouse out if you reveal more about the fit or go with the flatheads next time.

That's prolly in roughly a year's time. Taking a break from purchasing stuff biggrin.gif

Throw in pics of your Fullcounts as well will you, together with the warehouse fit pics =)
TSGrimm
post Aug 30 2011, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(linkinwayne @ Aug 29 2011, 08:12 PM)
Air it out after wearing, and try freezing the jeans in a ziplock bag for a few days.

Couple of Frankensteins (Naked & Famous) pics. I hear Frankenstein v.2 will be produced next year

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
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One of N&F's masterpieces. Too bad I never got to touchie feelie them irl.
TSGrimm
post Oct 15 2011, 04:33 PM

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@boneyM - Force that betch to swallow yo feckin wallet mate. That's what that betch is sposed to do. Lmao.

Nice work, I see so many fit pix.

Atta! Fit pix soon yes? biggrin.gif

Don't worry, these will wear out faster than you can remember where you put your TFDOEE.

Current rotation still the same.

Imperials to work, Imperials to uni, Diors for weekends or nights out.
TFDOEE for when surprise visitors come and I don't want to be seen like someone bumming around the house in PJs.
TSGrimm
post Oct 15 2011, 04:39 PM

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Also, to the one who got a Noir pair, keep us posted on how it goes.

Alzaim, can't comment on stackings. Some people love cuffing up, some dig pancake stacks. But do put on some shoes - they make stackings look much better.
Nice pair for a cheap price btw.
TSGrimm
post Oct 17 2011, 12:52 AM

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The Denim Debate!

http://denimdebate.com/about/

One of the female raw/selvedge bloggers who is writing for the denim debate - http://denimdebate.com/2010/03/initial-imp...aldwin-the-ten/

She's clearly a newbie at raw/selvedge denim, but I am happy with her reception towards this genre. Also - can't say I'm not attracted to that ass.

Edit : Grammar edit

This post has been edited by Grimm: Oct 17 2011, 12:57 AM
TSGrimm
post Oct 18 2011, 04:40 PM

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Why the hell do you have a greenish hue above your knees?!

Its not the dry organic ecru embo right?

See Atta, this.... is what our TFs should be like. Lol Instead, its the same dark indigo as it was a year ago >_>
TSGrimm
post Oct 18 2011, 07:47 PM

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chuakz,

wear it to work,take it on camping trips, wear it when you're doing rock climbing, going to the zoo, going on a hiking trip, horse riding, washing your car, taking your dog for a run, shearing sheep, bathing your dog etc.

It won't fade unless it receives abrasion. And that aint gonna happen in front of a desk wink.gif
TSGrimm
post Oct 22 2011, 01:59 AM

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After an hour wrestling with this heavy pair of denim in the bathroom, here are the results...

Tinypic's pics are so huge sleep.gif

Unworn Dukes

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Hand-washed after about 8-10 months of on-off-on-off wear, on rotation with DHomme 19cm

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This post has been edited by Grimm: Oct 22 2011, 01:23 PM
TSGrimm
post Oct 23 2011, 10:08 PM

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http://www.itsworn.com/

I refresh this page every day. It breathes new life into me each time I see beautiful images of worn stuff.
TSGrimm
post Oct 24 2011, 02:09 PM

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treflip, good going for 9 months. Worn often?
TSGrimm
post Oct 27 2011, 01:06 AM

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user posted image

One of the better pics i've seen.

Taken from www.itsworn.com from my daily refreshes. Gotta love well used stuff.
TSGrimm
post Oct 30 2011, 03:18 PM

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Finally, some pics! Good going on the Iron hearts. Looks like Sammy's getting less attention or its tougher than ever to break in tongue.gif

2 years with that breakage... I think those jeans can last you 10 years xD
TSGrimm
post Nov 6 2011, 02:42 AM

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I hand wash my raws. I am too enthusiastic to treat my selvedge jeans like everyday items tongue.gif

But nothing would have prepared me for the amount of indigo (and dirt) that came off. Inside out, outside in. Gentle brush with a soft brush to get dirt off, especially near the ankles. Even more so if you cuff em like me.

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