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 The Raw Selvedge Denim Thread, Version 4

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TSGrimm
post Jun 2 2011, 11:43 AM

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Not washing for a longer period only increases the contrast. Contrast is the difference in colour, or colour opposition if you will.

The contrast on raw jeans would be dark virgin indigo on the surfaces of the parts of the jeans that do not crease and are not exposed to friction of any sort. The lighter indigo part would be surfaces of the jeans that has been through some form of wearing out - creases behind the knees, causing the denim to brush against each other, back-pocket fades, front-pocket fades, crotch crease fades, and ankle fades obviously.

Not washing for a long time increases contrast, and because you keep it dry for a long period of time, it wears out faster than ever. That being said, there are loads of people who get beautiful contrast on their jeans, so the "non-washing" part of raw jeans is actually overplayed.

Lurk on mynudies more to see what I'm talking about.
TSGrimm
post Jun 4 2011, 11:37 PM

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I'm guessing it because Evisu is a lil more commercialized and slightly better known amongst his crowd of people, so he can connect to Evisu more.

Evisu's cuts are really baggy and some of them are really loud..
TSGrimm
post Jun 6 2011, 01:29 AM

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For raws, MIJ > MII

For washed of any kind, MII jeans usually have better aesthetics and fit.

Dior Homme's raw jeans is actually a combo of both, using japanese denim with a French/Italian designer touch makes it a hybrid, having the best of both worlds.
TSGrimm
post Jun 6 2011, 09:59 AM

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No, I got it from soneone from jawnz/sufu. $260 biggrin.gif

Browns has selvedge ones? As far as I know, the silver selvedge one was in 06 or 07, ever since, there is no more selvedge strip. Maybe its a new '11 one? Or a special edition for Browns. Designers do that all the time for some purpose or the other.

The only Evisus worth getting is the MIJ one.
TSGrimm
post Jun 6 2011, 11:50 AM

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Lol? Who on earth would spend that amount =.="

Gay price. Then again, its from Browns, what do you expect.

That's why $260 was a good find biggrin.gif

I only got my shirts from rakuten, haven't tried jeans. But I'm sure if you get it from a reputable shop, there shouldn't be no problems.
TSGrimm
post Jun 7 2011, 03:14 AM

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A good fit doesn't leave much room at the crotch area. But it differs from jeansmaker to jeansmaker, depends on low-rise or high-rise jeans, etc.

And there should be no discomfort whatsoever. Exception is for new unsanforized selvedge jeans or jeans with elastane in them, which will take some days of wear to stretch it to your individual shape.
TSGrimm
post Jun 8 2011, 02:49 PM

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http://vimeo.com/21891435

http://eatsleepdenim.com/blog/denim-class/...ean-your-jeans/

The dumb blogger doesn't even know his biology 101. Freezing does not kill friggin bacteria... microorganisms just do not breed as they are inactive in freezing temperatures. Dumb shit >_>

But obviously, a method well worth considering. Haha.

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jun 8 2011, 02:52 PM
TSGrimm
post Jun 9 2011, 09:41 PM

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Then time for a wash it is
TSGrimm
post Jun 10 2011, 11:29 AM

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Should I update the first post for sources? They're mostly buried in the past 4 threads tbh.. but we don't want everyone to deplete the already puny supply in Malaysia do we
TSGrimm
post Jun 11 2011, 11:08 PM

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Someone just posted a ditto of your question in the previous page. Please.
TSGrimm
post Jun 16 2011, 06:55 PM

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Cycling is clearly not an Asian thing, but lots of ppl do them everywhere. Haha. I guess they're catering for a select market for that one. Could be for collectors and a select few who loves attention in nightclubs.

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jun 16 2011, 08:44 PM
TSGrimm
post Jun 20 2011, 12:15 PM

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No shit.. that's the way to go for fades ;D

For my amount of wearing, it will take like 3-5 years. Can't believe they ripped their jeans in 9 months. I liked the one with ripples due to his crazy ankle stacking.


Added on June 20, 2011, 12:27 pmAdded the link into first post. Really crazy, that Studio D Artisan's fades.

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jun 20 2011, 12:27 PM
TSGrimm
post Jun 20 2011, 02:38 PM

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Without abrasion to the surface, it does not matter how long you wear it, for 5 years, if you wear it to office everyday and baby your jeans, there will be NO fades. Max I give u some criss crosses behind your knees =/

Oooh? Bespoked jeans. Must show process and end result with pics
TSGrimm
post Jun 20 2011, 03:13 PM

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Nice nice... you'll have to think about button fly/zip fly, copper/bronze rivets or other alloys of your choice perhaps? 4 + 1 pockets (coin pocket?)

For the top button, maybe you wanna do away with it and have a clasp instead? Many exciting details to think about!! biggrin.gif

High rise, low rise, low yoke, amount of tapering.. all customised. This is damn exciting. Maybe you can set up this business tongue.gif pioneering customised denim O_O
TSGrimm
post Jun 20 2011, 07:05 PM

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Mmmm... another additional thing you may think about is if you want organic denim.

They are much softer than the rigid selvedge denim, but because of that very property... they won't break/fade in as fast.

Organic denim will be about 10-12oz yeah
TSGrimm
post Jun 23 2011, 07:07 PM

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They are sanforised, so minimal shrinking, but stretching wouldn't be as much as APC, DH. You usually wear 30 in what?
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post Jun 23 2011, 07:50 PM

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I agree CMs are tight... Tight all around. They are a far cry from usual straight cuts that most ppl wear.

They are much more tapered compared to slim jims.
TSGrimm
post Jun 28 2011, 08:17 PM

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One of the forummers have one for sale. Maybe you can save some $$ if you get it from him? I think its BNWT
TSGrimm
post Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM

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@Holyboyz,

You told her you wanted to taper but you also wanted to preserve the selvedge line?

This is what I presume happened.

1. She cut off probably 1-2 inches.
2. Then tapered your APCs from knee down.

But she forgot step 3 - to taper the excess ankle cuffs that she cut out.
She skipped straight to Step 4.

4. Re-stitch them together well, so it is not noticeable.

Correct? No wonder it looks a bit like bootcut now. There was a post I read about tapering and still maintaining the selvedge strip. I'm pretty sure I got it from either someone's post here...


Added on June 30, 2011, 4:44 pmSeul is the only one ewith Atelier here biggrin.gif

I think that is your only pair that is wearable in summer huh? Ironhearts will melt your legs with that heat all trapped in.

I personally dislike those backpockets... but that's just me. I know a few friends who dislike the nudies backpocket stitching.

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jun 30 2011, 04:44 PM
TSGrimm
post Jul 3 2011, 12:07 AM

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Definitely there are..

Layang2 has been in 21oz since idunnowhen. I think there are a few others who dig heavy IronHearts.


Added on July 3, 2011, 2:32 amuser posted image

some pics of lower leg of DH MIJ raw.

This post has been edited by Grimm: Jul 3 2011, 02:32 AM

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