loong2020@
around 650km. could reach 700km but no point risking the fuel pump. 80% highway and 20% city with an
average 130km/h highway speed.

GearX_SaM@
the one in the picture is more like an air enhancer device to me.
but the one you test drive could be a fuel regulator. am using one in my setup. need to see the intake and out line...

miracle_liam@
engine or engine oil?
if you're referring to engine, gsr ck or 4g92 mivec is fine.
for engine oil, eneos 10w-40 semi synthetic (high mileage engine) is decent enough. check out garage sale.

definitely the waja 4g18p for reliability.
follow by the campro cps and lastly, the standard campro.

ThunderGod_Cid@
huh! my friend never call you on the oct deal?
i thought deal already done since i passed your number to him long ago.
am really sorry about it. am currently in kl but am gonna have a few words with my friend.
am gonna force him to threebond as a compensation.

p/s: steven@
were you seat look like THIS ?

This post has been edited by yngwie: May 31 2011, 07:45 PM

my guess was your plastic bracket melted under the hot sun. it then cracked when you try to wind down.
thus, all you heard is cracking plastic sound which blocked the glass.
you should get it replaced with steel type. lesser noise insulation but it last the car's life.

quite normal for any car with plastic bracket which was park under prolonged hot sun.
price of metal bracket with new motor is around 180 with labour(last year price).
better change to metal type and diy with some soundproofing.

the premium @ 1.6X variant does come with abs, airbag and leather seat / trim.

use any sound dampening material. the easiest is 10mm self-adhesive superflon. since metal bracket only cover certain area, use the superflon tocover the holed area( door), another simple way is using 6mm superflon and cotton waste to cover the panel. for the smaller holes, use the bitumen strip. 3 layer is the best treatment thou.

loud music will do. but i prefer to listen to engine sound aka turbo spooling

sammi cheng techno remix + registrachan's inul dangdut or something

btw, here is question; you guys willing to pay 39k for a well taken care of end of 2004 waja with gsrt block + mivec head + s256 turbine + 3 layer soundproofing and pu bushes all round?

i was using a wira gsrt before the waja. thought i could get rid of the wira gsrt and drive a stock waja. turn out turbo spool can be addictive. hence the continues project on waja but i've got a good offer which is hard to resist.
thinking i could use the fund for a 2jz block on my main ride. and some tuning material for my other stock 3.0 d-max workhorse too.

p/s:
ThunderGod_Cid@
did my friend call you on the oct?

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 7 2011, 07:21 PM

fixed

should be okay but if the sound intrusion into cabin is too obvious or with humming sound to the ear, it's could be
an early sign of worn out arm bushes and engine mounting.

i checked last time around. the best option seems like gsrt. but since i want an aggressive setting,
instead of stock head, i used one from mivec md. but it require a customize dual fuel rail to feed the
aggressive head too bad, my waja now become my 3rd ride already.
btw, 30% upgrade is no longer apply to proton car under 2000cc. even if no mounting change, unlike pre-2006,
2.0 evo engine is not allowed anymore.

GearX_SaM@
check your engine mounting and bushes. that could be the problem.
also, to maintain your engine performance, ThunderGod_Cid could 'threesome bonding ' your car.

both are closely related. hence, some hardcore tuner is using gsr block on 'b' head as well.
even with launch control device, kancil chassis will never be able to handle b16a.

rust is kiddo stuff. we can use sand paper. but worn out disc / jam caliper is a headache.
halfcut twin pot with worn out / almost worn out(surface & thickness) 280mm disc + jam caliper with knuckle still cost in the region of 600.
not to mentioned the headache of alignment. although knuckle seems to be plug n play, it wasn't as easy.
might end up changing the lower arm as well.

for peace of mind. get those from evo4 and above. evo 3 was of wira equivalent in spare parts.
still on pcd 114.3 thou.

just get steven's manual tranny then. btw, if am not mistaken, manual to auto conversion require and ecu swap
for better feel.
make sure to paint you caliper in red before conversion

its stock clarion. and your waja cd changer is located at the boot next to the light.

DaBestOne@
not sure about others but my stock clarion bracket already padded with rubber all round. no worry on vibration.
only a hard cornering caused it to skip.

WhitE LighteR@
my bad. mine was already converted to 5 lugs to accommodate the regamaster. stock waja is 4 lugs.
besides evo twin pot. another cheaper option for waja is those bigger disc from vr4 and gsr.
the stock waja brake on rear is good enough but for converted engine, swapping with the bigger disc is better.

mao2@]
adrian from garage sales used to sell it. check out mudah site. there is one guy from negeri sembilan selling it at 45 bucks. some selling at 65 bucks. easy to diy.

DaBestOne@
yes. most of the soundproofing stuff in my waja was diy. services, engine mounting change and even the engine transplant was part diy. that time, the waja is still my full time ride. now my waja is being driven by my sister back in kl.

WhitE LighteR@
were you on 205/45/17 or 215/40/17? stock suspension is fine if you're not carrying heavy load but at times, it may rub during bumpy road.
r3 spring lower the car by close to 40mm. about 3 finger or 2 fat finger in layman term... jk

mao2@
r3 sport spring need to be pair with sport absorber / short strokes abs to get the handling and reliability. if it doesn't match, you could only choose between handling and reliability. in your case, you've got a quite comfy ride but shorter life of standard abs.
stay away from newer apm performax sport spring. it tend to get softer in shorter time.
so far, the best combination for me is apm performax + custom made spring for rear and monroe sensatrac with
fresh stock spring. the reason am using apm performax for rear is the reliability. tested and proven.
btw, you can always go to halfcut and ask them for a pajero spring

due to different working method / rate, pairing a stock abs with sport spring is not advisable. and vice versa.
stock rear spring and stock abs(apm -gas) does not last long. the longest i could use them is one year.
but with apm performax(gas & oil combination) abs and custom spring, it last more than 2.5 years, even with frequent abuse.
btw, after done with engine transplant a few years back, am using apm performax abs all round and custom front and rear spring. with soft abs and stock spring, the heavier gsrt engine caused a bad nose dive during
hard braking.

while still on 4g18p, monroe sensatrac with stock spring on front and apm performax and custom made spring for rear. front apm performax cost around 165 or so while rear around 120(last year pricing).
after engine transplant was done, am on apm performax all round with custom spring.
from my experience, if you like to attack corners, adjustable setup is fine but they wear out your lower arm in
shorter time.
it's all about understanding the car's behaviour and finding the best solution.

mao2@
if the relay is at fault, it may affect the switches / motor due to current too strong thus caused a board circuit.
in some case, a burnt fuse or faulty main switch may be the root of problem but most workshop will happily tell you it was the relay

legendaryghost@
define the strange sound; squeaking? high pitch? or legendary ghost sound? could be mounting? front wheel bearing? loose cooler mounting?
that chi chi chi' sound could be caused by loose boot area, especially the 2 speaker at the rear area(padding with 10mm superflon may help), or even loose screw / nut somewhere. in some case, loose fuel tank bracket or
worn out rear arms. ask someone to sit behind to identify which part does the sound comes from.

miracle_liam@
you should go back to dealer to get them replaced. they should provide at least 2 weeks or 1 month warranty.

1. central power window switch faulty - 90 to 160 depending on which type.
2. passenger door unable to open from outside - broken door handle. the door handle with matching color cost around 25 bucks but labour will cost you around 40 or so.
3. Fog light not working - fuse problem? 50 cent each. if it was the bulb, branded bulb cost almost 80 bucks.

the 'glock' sound during reverse and brake may caused by the tight rear caliper and worn out disc.
how often do you guys service the rear caliper and change the rear disc?

another possibility is a loose fuel tank bracket.

blo0dLuSt@
car sway to the left when steering off the wheels in straight road = could be alignment problem.
make sure to test your car at flat and straight road. any changes to absorber set and arms require an alignment job.

steering not straight / slightly to the left while car is going straight / wide steering free play = steering bush problem.
how long it had been since the last time you change your steering bush?
you should be able to see the steering bush condition from the engine bay.

perhaps, you need alignment job and new steering bushes.