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 ★★★ LYN PROTON WAJA Club - V11 ★★★

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yngwie
post Jun 29 2011, 07:56 AM

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coinstar@
from my own experience, pu bushes absorb the sound in slightly lesser way the original bushes does.
but it definitely drives and handles better than a new waja smile.gif
handling increased due to 'solid and elastic' feel tongue.gif . it drives like a nimble swift sports in tight road. coupled with the 'rojak' engine and good diy sound insulation, can't ask for more!

for stock engine and no soundproof installed, here is the best solution ;
use the original proton bushes on ; engine mounting and lower arm bushes. they are slightly superior in absorbing the tyres /engine noise.
use pu bushes on steering bush and arb bushes. you car should have this fast respond handling. (check with elton on this one).

elton@
does my friend call you on the deal?
if not, i will force him to deal with you this saturday night around sunway pyramid area. is it okay for you?
yngwie
post Jul 2 2011, 10:29 AM

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my sister called me this morning. my waja power steering pump finally gone.
since am not around, my sister could not sourced the sound but she told me it was from the power steering area.
btw, is it normal for it to produce a loud whirling sound?
yngwie
post Jul 2 2011, 08:21 PM

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QUOTE(blo0dLuSt @ Jul 2 2011, 01:28 PM)
bro how to know the power steering pump kaput?
*
ask my mechanic back in kl to check the car. confirmed power steering problem. thanks to the half cut engine, my mechanic managed to find a replacement below 280 bucks with labour.
btw, mine was of gsr which had plenty in half cut shop.

1. steering (turning) very stiff even when the engine is started - sign of power steering need flushing ( fluid is same grade with atf sp3).
2. louder than usual 'shhhh' shhh' sound when turning the steering with frequent top up of power steering fluid - sign of steering pump leaking somewhere else. can be saved with oil seal kit which cost around 40 bucks.
3. loud whirling sound from the power steering pump area when starting the engine ; with steering very stiff during operation - steering pump is gone (bearing problem). need a new replacement. cost more than 400 original proton.

pojam@
belting noise can be settled either with proper lubrication or adjusting the tension rate. unless its end of lifespan.
steering should be light even when the car is stationary with the engine turn on.
if the engine is turn on and the steering still feel heavy, its about time to do flushing.
yngwie
post Jul 5 2011, 08:11 PM

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zftrans@
where are you staying?
perhaps, faulty relay or short circuit somewhere.
if there is a wiring problem. vs will not help.
in some case, usage of certain type of spark plug will affect the audio quality as in intermittent 'hissing'
sound.


letchuanna@
if you turn in full force(turn end) and the 'tuk' sound comes out, probably it was steering the bush problem.
is there too much free play on the steering? was your steering slight to the right while the tyre is straight?
faulty steering rack will be noisy from the moment you drive the car.
when was the last time you service your air-cond? how about bringing the car to air-con specialist and re-oil the compressor?


yngwie
post Jul 11 2011, 07:48 AM

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elnino@
front around 120 bucks with labour.
rear around 200 bucks with labour. depend on which brand you're taking.
koyo, skf...etc
yngwie
post Jul 15 2011, 08:02 AM

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QUOTE(elnino @ Jul 14 2011, 08:40 PM)
Hi, wanna check on pricing, i've been quoted below by a workshop for my Waja maintenance, ok or not ok?

SpeedMaster 5W-30 4 liter - RM145.00 - too expensive for unknown brand. contact gack84 in garage sales. you could buy a 10w-40 eneos semi synth from him below 100 with free oil filter and other freebies. you can always bring your own stuffs during service.
1 set Denso Iridium Spark plugs - RM160.00 - rubbish item. you don't gain performance over it. even so when your plug cable /coil is also worn out.
ngk platinum spark plug which cost around 50 bucks will do the job nicely. saved the extra for other item.
Oil filter - RM15.00 - refer to 1st post.
2 tin brake fluid - RM40.00 - if it was the bosch brand, worth it.
1 tin radiator coolant - RM40.00 - proton original coolant cost around 20 bucks or so per liter. you need 2 liter.
Gear oil - RM80.00 - i doubt 80 bucks enough, unless it was another unknown brand. you will need 4.3 liter. proton original cost around 20 bucks per liter or so.
Radiator housing - RM185.00 - depending on which brand. local ones should be slightly cheaper thou.
Radiator cap 0.9 - RM30.00 - what happened with the original cap? 'ayam' brand cap can be bought at jusco for 20 bucks. 0.9kg.
Labour - RM40.00 - quite okay considering how much he mark up on the other item.

Any comment/s?
*
hope the above help wink.gif
yngwie
post Jul 19 2011, 07:49 AM

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QUOTE(mao2 @ Jul 18 2011, 07:57 PM)
i was there late in the evening.. around 5.. asking saiful about adjustable he offered me that day.. gab hi/low with bodyshift.. but i prefer hwl hi/lo soft hard
*
+1
hwl h/l & s/h is one of the better suspension around for waja. used to have 'em installed in my car.
make sure to replace the stock absorber mounting(if there is a sign of crack, jolted up) / worn out lower arm / bushes prior to installing 'em.

from own experience, my ori absorber mounting crack a few months after using it due to too much urge to push in corner.
road noise become more obvious too ; this is mainly due to the harder hwl which just kill the worn out arm bushes.
yngwie
post Jul 19 2011, 08:17 PM

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mao2@
can't recall my hwl setting but its definitely lower than 8k f / 6k r. those are too stiff for waja. as good as killing the soft functionality of the abs.
btw, i did used 8k f / 6k r setup while still on tein superstreet. useful if you're on gsrt engine(heavier front) and using 205/45/r17 with frequent touge'.
but it will be a bad moves considering the potholes all over our road.
for customize spring on stock engine, 6k f / 4k r is fine.
if you insisted on anything higher, you might consider changing the arm bushes to pu type to maintain the elasticity.

p/s : added a real POISON brows.gif

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jul 19 2011, 08:22 PM
yngwie
post Jul 25 2011, 07:38 PM

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QUOTE(enermax @ Jul 25 2011, 10:15 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
what is your current tires size? 195/55/r15 or profile 60?
if current one is profile 55, you better choice will be 205/50/r16. no noticeable loss in performance
and fc. only drawback is 205/50/r16 tires choice are limited.

QUOTE(brewoe_1988 @ Jul 25 2011, 10:43 AM)
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1. proton sp3 ori cost around 20 bucks per liter. you need around 4.5 liter or so.
2. proton original wiper arm cost around 70 bucks. labour cost not included.
3. skimming x4 disc cost around 120 bucks. not advisable to skim more than twice.

rough ride could be caused by a worn out lower arm bushes / spring and hardened absorber.
worn out arm bushes gives a boat like ride. absorber link does not contribute much to bad ride. but it may affect
the handling and also, causing a squeaking noise.

yngwie
post Jul 26 2011, 07:44 PM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Jul 26 2011, 10:30 AM)
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then the stock suspension can't hold... too much nosedive, another moolah out tongue.gif
modding is a never ending story. and power can be addictive sweat.gif
for stock 4g18 without internal parts change and mods, anything lesser than 0.7 bar is okay.
but with your setup, 1.0 bar and above is nothing brows.gif


QUOTE(brewoe_1988 @ Jul 26 2011, 11:53 AM)
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you have to take the risk. how old is your suspension stuffs (absorber, lower arm and absorber link) ?
if it's more than 1.5 years old, perhaps, consider pooling your budget and changed them at once.
keep your front tires pressure at 210 - 220kpa range.
btw, which area are you staying? and for the next change, stay away from apm performax ot any sports abs if you want comfort setting.
yngwie
post Jul 27 2011, 07:24 PM

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brewoe_1988@
as i suggested earlier, you may need to pool your budget and change em at once to cut on alignment cost.
start with the front parts replacement.
here is a rough estimation ;
sachs / monroe absorber around 250 bucks for both
new lower arm with bushes around 200 for both front (good quality)
absorber link around 100 for both (good quality)
absorber mounting (if your old ones is already worn out) around 100 bucks for both front
labour cost roughfly around 100 bucks.
alignment / balancing maybe cost around 68 or so.

total damage(estimate) = around 850 or so with hidden cost on rubber cover / protector.
but after a rear suspension / arb bushes change, you car will feel like new!
in my case, it was even better than a new car smile.gif

yngwie
post Jul 29 2011, 07:50 AM

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QUOTE(brewoe_1988 @ Jul 28 2011, 10:48 PM)
Bro just change front? Rear no need ar?where u get the price?any workshop to recommend?
*
estimate price according to market price sometime early of this year.
if you want to change front and rear altogether, it will cost around 2k or so.
and you will only saved about 38 bucks or so on re-alignment cost.

here is an estimate breakdown for the rear ;
2x2 = 4pcs suspension link( short and long) - 100 bucks x2 = 200
rear absorber x rubber protector - 180x2 = 360
rear suspension arm - 1xx bucks x 2 = 2xx
rear arb linkage x 2 - 65x2 = 130

labour around 150 bucks or so.

and since you're working on suspension changes, why not change the arb bushes
in a go? check with elton for a good arb pu bushes for more 'responsive handling feel.

i don't know which area you're staying, how could i recommend a workshop?

QUOTE(Andy0625 @ Jul 29 2011, 01:12 AM)
new lower arm with bushes around 200 for both front (good quality)
200 each or 200 for two pieces? last time i heard original around 200-300, how to change? sad.gif
*
200 bucks is an estimate price for both side. its not an original proton but will last for another 5 years or so.
good thing you get rid of the noisy sound when driving over those thick yellow lines.
i don't suggest changing the bushes alone on old lower arm. those worn out arm bearing can't be swapped.
new proton ori cost in the region of 2xx bucks for a pair. not sure if there is a different between abs and non-abs thou.



yngwie
post Jul 29 2011, 08:28 PM

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brewoe_1988@
if your absorber is fine, don't change it. saved the cost.
there is one in taman maluri cheras. located exactly behind the jusco maluri. same row as ambank bank.
wong auto with hi-rev signboard. on the right hand side.
i used to send both of my car over there before both went for engine transplant.
not sure if the workmanship and labour price changed. i usually bring the car parts and let 'em installed.
try calling the number ; 03 92823992.
yngwie
post Aug 2 2011, 07:32 AM

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QUOTE(brewoe_1988 @ Aug 1 2011, 11:51 PM)
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you can buy the gen2 type rear arm link l/s from any spare part for 200 bucks x4.
and the front lower arm comes with bushes. you don't need to buy separately. unsure about cost but i can give
you my friend's contact number in kl if you are interested to deal.
btw, pesc usually charge higher.

QUOTE(Nightstalker1993 @ Aug 1 2011, 04:28 AM)
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i've came across a few 10 years old car with considerably low mileage.
maybe car is hardly used or it seldom go long distance. sure carbon deposit is very high.
good deal, anyway.

This post has been edited by yngwie: Aug 2 2011, 07:33 AM
yngwie
post Aug 2 2011, 06:46 PM

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QUOTE(Royal Malaysia Pirate @ Aug 2 2011, 03:11 PM)
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look for proreka product. very rare item. i bought mine as a used set and still cost
500 bucks. auto flip with light indicator.

QUOTE(brewoe_1988 @ Aug 2 2011, 06:29 PM)
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was basically the same thing. only different is the design.
yngwie
post Aug 5 2011, 07:34 AM

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QUOTE(kalvinwee @ Aug 1 2011, 11:58 PM)
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fyi, 'nget nget' sound has nothing to do with rear short and long arm link.
worn out arm link only produced a 'cricket like' sound.
could be loosened fuel tank bracket or worn out abs / abs bushes (1x top, 1x bottom) / arm bushes / loose rear boot screws.

mao2@
the uk variant on sale by proton does come with heater function and proreka auto flip does not. but the 700 bucks
proreka has the signal light indicator. brows.gif

btw, its already 126 pages. someone please start a new thread.

yngwie
post Aug 7 2011, 02:22 PM

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QUOTE(shiyau @ Aug 6 2011, 11:36 PM)
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not advisable. the huku absorber is a comfort absorber. and comfort absorber must be pair with comfort / stock spring.
apm performax is lower / sports spring and its rate isn't set for comfort. it will shortened the standard absorber life.
btw, the newer apm performax spring tend become soft in shorter time compare to the same old product.

QUOTE(SCCH @ Aug 7 2011, 12:44 AM)
hi guys, my waja 1.6 A 4g18 is damn thirsty. mileage 170k. pump RM95 can only go 450km. any solution? ive tried threebond from thundergod. will ecu remap improve my fc? any1 heard about dktuning?
*
rm95 of ron95 on waja auto should be good enough for 550km. check with elton for tips and tricks.
he know the drill.

Elton, my friend asked about the oct he bought from you, since it does not come with manual, which one
is in and out?
yngwie
post Aug 8 2011, 07:26 AM

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QUOTE(ThunderGod_Cid @ Aug 7 2011, 08:26 PM)
Hhmm, whats the difference?
*
oct comes with in and out. in as from the header and out as to throttle / intake.
but my friend told me the one he bought from you does not come with label / manual.
could you check, which is in and out?
yngwie
post Aug 9 2011, 07:35 AM

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QUOTE(Andy0625 @ Aug 8 2011, 12:26 PM)
I bet elton means that there's no differences between the input and output on the OCT as one with pressure push in and when over flows, the other flows out. I guess it's fine with either one.

Btw, I can notice some really dirty engine oil when connected from the Breather Valve to Intake manifold rather than PVC valve to intake box. smile.gif
*
T joint with proper evaporation filtering is the answer brows.gif

btw, its already 128 pages. someone please start V12!
yngwie
post Aug 9 2011, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(ThunderGod_Cid @ Aug 9 2011, 11:43 AM)
It's the same for this cheapo OCT that doesnt cost you a carton of cigarettes biggrin.gif. The rather more expensive original greddy ones with metal wool at 300plus do have em.
*
my friend is quite a noob tongue.gif .
and since i did not got hold of it and see the structure, thought it has the same line as my half cut cusco.
will inform my friend about it then.


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