big enough to cover what? i shoot one 20 people group also can what. all depends on what setting you use and the environment..

ooo i see. i've only started to use bounce card this few months. my stofen already rotting in my room.

because i was told the bigger the bounce card the better, and the bouncing angle, what is the factor you decide it?
btw, alpha fundamental flash at MV, 6 March, who's going? XD

I kenot attend anyway lol.

Sadly I got other events planned on that week >">

Hope I can attend alpha convention though.

better to do what? bouncing angle, depends on how high is the ceiling and how far is your subject matter.

__________________________________-

wohooo poisoned by wireless flash


Wireless flash 1 by zstan, on Flickr


Wireless flash 2 by zstan, on Flickr

fundamental flash. me go!!

no flash can go?? LOL

why not? pop up also flash wat.. XD
@eddy
see you there.

hiansitt: see u there too... have to put into my reminder 1st. XP

no ular tedung, bring the hamster??

pop up flash = the hamster u always find in the game


This post has been edited by evilhomura89: Feb 16 2011, 03:11 AM

hiansitt:
-1) the flash distance is not excately determine that way, it has a very very sophisticated "model" to see. but i duno how to show it. wait till i found a 15 meter wall, i will make a cheatsheet (sample model) for u guys to see.

1) that is if u notice ur fire arent firing enough, u add it so u get the flash to reach the area u wan. because the TTL sometimes caught the light in a foreground subject and reduce the power drastically.

3) more then enough. provided u have a ceiling for the light to actually bounce down, that why it called bounce flash in the first place. u cant bounce the moon and back

4) the zoom does zoom around when u zoom ur lens in bounce mode. hear it properly

zstan:

2) because my a300 has a tendency to underexpose due to metering limitations. use QLV to shoot, it has 1200zone metering, which give more accurate eV and FeV metering.

3) erm, bounce card, read my answer to wlliam

4) wrong. read reply for hiansit, if u mount a 50mm prime, it will zoom to 50mm flash

wliam: catchlight, correct point, but not the main purpose . throwing the 'fill light' to remove the shadow cause by bounce(nose eye and hair), is the main reason.

hiansitt: bigger size of the light source is better, not the card. u mistaken the point. but i can tell u this, the bounce on the ceiling, that ceiling bounce light source is larger then ur bounce card.

but yes at some point, people tend to think, making the card bigger, thus making the light source from front larger~ but that will mess up the bounce light, because u will be directing more front fill then bounce, cause making less soft bounce light, more harsh frontal light (since the ceiling bounce source is Larger then the biggest card u can hold on ur flash)

a lot pro force me to get a demb diffuser, and i dont get the point, until i get it... i feel, disappointed, its worst then using bounce card only. too much frontal light spoil the soft bounce from the ceiling. (and it tend to make BG darker!) its useful Only if u have no ceiling to bounce, eg. outdoor wedding.

the build in bounce card usually throw around 15% light forward. just enough to cast away the shadow cause by the bounce light from the ceiling.u dont have to worry bout oily face, it wont show (unless u shooting 50cm away). the light is really soft, enough to cast away shadow, but wont be enough to cause oily face to pop.

---

Added on February 16, 2011, 4:21 ammmm i think i have decide to dedicate some of my time to write a erm, learning/sharing blog to share for the new comers to learn. so i hope your my friends, will contribute or help out (spelling check or web programming, i am not good with it). or open topics or share some knowledge that i might be missing, im not perfect rite? please point out any mistake i made.

this one small part, Basic WB >>>>here <<<<(albnok, if u think its good enough u may use it and link it on the first page of the alpha thread)

and zstan, this is for u (and others can read too)


the first set is shot with my toilet light off, and the wall tiles are actually milky color, so the bounced light will seem milky colored.
you will notice, with constant flash power, the aperture, allows the flash light comes in more when opened wider. causing the F2.8 photo to be overexpose (so ahpingko, yours is F2.2 with iso800, what makes u think ur photo will not overexpose when ur setting is 2 stop brighter then this setting , now, try lower it to iso100 or 200 to start again)

the 2nd set, with my toilet light on (tungsten)
see how F5.6, the tungsten dont really show up. (and lets assume the flash fired at 1/16 like the first set sample, because it seem to have the same exposure)
when turn to F4, the tungsten slowly overwrite the ambiance light. (*not all LCD monitor will see this)
and at F2.8 (1 stop larger then F4) the tungsten totally overwrites the flash light!!! but if i were to turn off the flash @ F2.8, the 1/60 will show a very underexpose photo.

and, if i were to manual the flash at 1/16 @ F2.8, even with the toilet light on, it will still overexpose the whole picture like the 1st set F2.8~

so zstan: can u see how the F4 being overwrite by ambiance tungsten light? and i cant use manual flash because it will overexpose the photo (ur method, that to overexpose the subject hoping the ambiance light wont overwrite it is wrong)

do u know why i said ur setting is surviving method? if u lack of the understanding, u are just same as shooting blindly and hope, finger crossed to get a good photo. if u understand the setting/theory well, u could have easily overcome the tungsten cast issue instead of blast the flash stronger which is so inconsistence that you get overexpose photo sometimes. come, build up ur skill with the right knowledge

and the solution is actually what albnok been sharing with you guys who had TT with him. i really really appreciate my first and only TT with him, i learned so much from that single TT. you guys so lucky can TT with him so many time, but still cant catch what he trying to share.

the Tungsten Gel Card Albnok DIYed will solve that tungsten issue!!!!! now, go bug albnok for another TT to learn how to really use that tungsten gel

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 16 2011, 09:51 AM

spam 1 pic... lol. got bored and took some old pic to edit (although only taken 10 days ago)

not sure which 1 is the better performance,

need suggestion about this 2 lens.


Minolta 50mm f1.7 ?

Sony sam 50mm F1.8 ?


please advice

Not sure about Minolta. But Sony 1.8 was known to have more focus performance than canon and nikkor models and better build quality...therefore the minolta is believe is used? better get the new Sony

btw, 0.1 stops is nothing

just my 2 cents

Lwliam: i tried last nite according to your tests..my room got fluorescent light turned on too..but somehow i did get the results i posted..is there any possibility my f42 got problem??..i always found that when i let the flash gun on auto mode, the flash power seemed to be very low..

Btw, i cant surf forum when working..but i can see yr replies in my email..

excellent and educational post, ier. i learnt a lot.

Liked.

popfish: better, surely the sal50 F1.8. the KM50F1.7 is just 'beneficial or smarter' choice if u ever plan to go FF. but the SAL50F1.8 has more beautiful color and get sharps really quick at F2. but even if u ever wanted to go FF, u probably will upgrade to a SAL50F1.4 anyway when the times come. so just get the 50F1.8.

ahpingko: i believe its the highlight protection priority thingie (if there is such thing, albnokkkk need u clarify), the metering will try avoid highlight (burn out/overexpose) spot in the photo, because highlight is harder to recover then pulling/level a shadow out. try use QLV for better metering (seriously)

ahtiven: TQ

ieR, that's an excellent write-up! I think you should post this up in the alphanatics forum for the benefit of alpha members there too. I would never had been able to explain it as well as you did. Bravo!

ahpingko, considering that aperture controls your ambient lighting, you will have to expect that it affects the ambient WB as well. so the bigger you open your aperture (smaller f-number), the more the ambient WB is going to affect your photo. It is a fine balance, and one which is not always possible to overcome. BALANCE is the key point here.

and that ONE PIECE OF PLASTIC CTO (color temperature orange) gel is more useful than you think. *hahaha*

minolta got problem with flare or was it my copy problem?

thanks for ur 2 cents


ya, ok , ic, KM 50f1.7 can go ff , i heard km50f1.7 is better sharp colour & build quality is better than SAM 50f1.8


not sure, i oso blur about this.

This post has been edited by popfish: Feb 16 2011, 10:00 AM

sal50f18