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 The Sony Alpha Thread V50!, The Orange Legion

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kuro0314
post Feb 15 2011, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Feb 14 2011, 03:32 PM)
since you use kit lens most of the time n would like to have fast focusing, have you thought of CZ 24-70 SSM??? drool.gif

btw, is Sigma HSM comparable to SSM in Sony?
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intend to but kind of expensive =(
zstan
post Feb 15 2011, 02:17 PM

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for my part, i use filters so that i can throw my lens cap away in bag while knowing my lens' front element is protected.

its very time wasting put on and take off a lens cap and then have to stuff it into your pocket or in bag. the moment is already gone by then. i also do not comprehend why some people like to put their hood back ways while shooting. i means its understandable if you want to keep it in bag and to save space but why they doing that while shooting? look cool or plain stupid? it totally interferes with the zooming ring(this does not applies to prime though, but then again why put it if you don't wanna use it?).

buying a good quality UV filter which can live up to robust use(scratch resistant) is important here. anyway, small scratches on the filters won effect IQ anyway. i still can afford to change badly scratched filters every 1-2 years but certainly not changing zeiss/G lenses every single year.

sorry guys, emo day today.

This post has been edited by zstan: Feb 15 2011, 02:18 PM
kuro0314
post Feb 15 2011, 02:18 PM

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QUOTE(kysham @ Feb 14 2011, 04:22 PM)
kuro0314, I would think that the SAL1635Z is an overkill on the A300.... but that is just me.  tongue.gif The SAL1680Z DT would be more suitable. But if you do have fullframe in your mind as future upgrade, then the SAL1635Z is indeed a good option to consider. You simply losing too much wideness for the price you paid for the SAL1635Z. The telephoto range on the other hand benefits from the psuedo-extended range due to the crop factor. 300mm becomes 450mm and 400mm becomes 600mm on aps-c!!!  drool.gif

evilhomura89, Yes, Sigma's HSM is comparable to Sony's SSM in terms of its concept of operation. (Canon's equivalent will be the USM and Nikon's will be the SWD). btw, Sigma's 24-70 F2.8 HSM is also a very nice lense if the SAL2470Z is considered as being too expensive. wink.gif
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i think i will go for the 1680 instead of 1635 coz is too expensive... X{
evilhomura89
post Feb 15 2011, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(zstan @ Feb 15 2011, 01:45 PM)
expensive filters won't improve IQ, but using CHEAP FILTERS will DEFINITELY DEGRADE IQ and INTRODUCE MORE FLARE AND HAZE AND OTHER STUFF.
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agree
my WB all gone case esp night time with cheapo filters
lwliam
post Feb 15 2011, 02:30 PM

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errrr, cheap filters dont interfere with WB...
evilhomura89
post Feb 15 2011, 02:33 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Feb 15 2011, 02:30 PM)
errrr, cheap filters dont interfere with WB...
*
well it does for me
cause the KEEP filter has a yellowish tint on it
during night time, pictures tend to get warmer with filter on
kysham
post Feb 15 2011, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(Newbieeeeee @ Feb 15 2011, 12:57 PM)
Why not? I'm using Keep. I'll rather spend rm50 for it just to protect the glass. i personally dont believe that using expensive filters will improve yr picture quality.
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I don't mean to offend anyone with my comments but really, once you have encountered the problems with cheapo filters, you will understand what I'm talking about. The filter is the FIRST thing that light entering your camera will pass through. It pays to have the light passing through your filter to have the least degradation possible so that your lens & sensor have the best available light source to work with.

You can make good light bad, but not the other way round.

Take a few shots in demanding situations with & without your KEEP filter on your lens and you will know what I'm talking about. Peace, brother. smile.gif

lwliam
post Feb 15 2011, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Feb 15 2011, 02:33 PM)
well it does for me
cause the KEEP filter has a yellowish tint on it
during night time, pictures tend to get warmer with filter on
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white balance is what you set in your camera, if there's a yellow cast, then the its the user that will need to adjust it.. custom WB anyone?
evilhomura89
post Feb 15 2011, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Feb 15 2011, 02:42 PM)
white balance is what you set in your camera, if there's a yellow cast, then the its the user that will need to adjust it.. custom WB anyone?
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yea, was using AWB
btw, do you know of any good methods to set custom WB?
use the mini plastic tray provided by McD for chilli sauce, the plastic cap of paper cups or stg like that?
yuhi
post Feb 15 2011, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Feb 15 2011, 04:13 PM)
yea, was using AWB
btw, do you know of any good methods to set custom WB?
use the mini plastic tray provided by McD for chilli sauce, the plastic cap of paper cups or stg like that?
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Get a grey card with a white side, its one of the best thing to set custom WB (I think).
kopitiam
post Feb 15 2011, 02:47 PM

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use pringle's white cap biggrin.gif

if u have live view even better drool.gif

This post has been edited by kopitiam: Feb 15 2011, 02:48 PM
yuhi
post Feb 15 2011, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Feb 15 2011, 04:03 PM)
well it does for me
cause the KEEP filter has a yellowish tint on it
during night time, pictures tend to get warmer with filter on
*
Are you using a Skylight filter? They tend to warm the image up a little because they have a slight magenta tint to it

This post has been edited by yuhi: Feb 15 2011, 02:48 PM
ReasonsofThanatos
post Feb 15 2011, 02:49 PM

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I guess u could take a shot at any white surfaces when u wanted to set custom WB...I even tried take a pic of my white pants that im wearing XD
evilhomura89
post Feb 15 2011, 02:56 PM

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QUOTE(yuhi @ Feb 15 2011, 02:47 PM)
Are you using a Skylight filter? They tend to warm the image up a little because they have a slight magenta tint to it
*
it's just a cheapo UV filter with obvious yellow tinting on it
I think one of the members did a test on filters a while ago where he took a photos of filters sitting on a piece of white paper, then increased the saturation
eddybeh
post Feb 15 2011, 02:57 PM

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ahpingko: i saw ur pic in digital camera february issue. the gini n danbo de.

n guys, u remember few threads b4 some1 shared a macro crystal dragonfly? i saw it in a magazine named "knowledge".
evilhomura89
post Feb 15 2011, 02:59 PM

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QUOTE(evilhomura89 @ Feb 15 2011, 02:56 PM)
it's just a cheapo UV filter with obvious yellow tinting on it
I think one of the members did a test on filters a while ago where he took a photos of filters sitting on a piece of white paper, then increased the saturation
*
there we are- http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=ST&f...post&p=39106196
fansoption
post Feb 15 2011, 03:10 PM

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I buying 70-300G And 35mm this sat hope got stock haha.
ieR
post Feb 15 2011, 03:14 PM

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paying good price for good filter, or using cheapo filter is a very subjective argument, like having high end G/CZ vs normal/3rd party lenses. although the argument will bend towards G/CZ lol so will better filter.

i personally will take B+W (or cz) for its pure clearness. even hoya has a minor grey tint. people tend to think hoya os the best filter in the market, but there is so many even more stronger brand.

reason i rather pay rm200-300 for B+W because it high scratch resistant, anytime i can use my shirt to wipe it without worry, since i used rm50 filter before, within 1 year, it got many minor scratch (and cause lining in photo under flaring condition), and another cheapo rm50 filter cause -2/3 stop for my 50mm! (F1.4 becomes F1.7 LOL)

some people dont think it degrade quality, well, go try have a long exposure night shooting (F8-22), it causes ur camera AF to be 1mm off sometimes, having a sharp building or a soft building. it could be affected AF, light diffraction cause by filter make AF off or the filter itself making it soft. shoot one without the filter, and u will be surprise the increase of the sharpness.

WB issue, yes, some cheap filter has tint, i shot sample of it few weeks ago, some has green. or blue, or red(no, not skylight filter, it was declare as neutral filter). it does affect WB. because the WB is auto between the 'preset mode' eg: tungsten AWB, where the kelvin doesNT goes below 3k, only manual(CWB) can access. so if u have even a 500k tungsten/red filter, u get really reddish photo even tungsten AWB. or even if u use flash, ur flash AWB 5500k will turn up to 6000k because of the filter of 500k (tungsten-ish)
user posted image
thanks evilhomura89 for finding back the link

but here the gimmick, i rather go filter-less for lens under 1k. because for less under 1k lens(including 50 F1.7 and F1.8), its IQ isnt the best already, having cheap filter will make it worst. also its not really wise to invest 30% of its value into another filter. summore, lenses under 1k is more or less a kit lens, u WILL eventually replace it with better Kit replacement, which will cost u over 1k. so even it got scratch, ur heart also not that pain anyway, and will decide to upgrade, but for filter, u will haiya, need buy another filter. or leave it on having bad iq photo, then blame it on the lens or body. tongue.gif

lens over 1k (50F1.4 etc) will definately spend a decent good filter for it. because u do not what have a scratched front element(glass/optics) because it will cause u more then 1k to get a new one. 1k make a huge diff in buying/funding better lenses. not mentioning lenses over 3k eh, so its better off u spend 200-300 for a good filter.

so, expensive filter is not for all lenses. cheap filter is not for any lenses at all.


Added on February 15, 2011, 3:17 pmbtw, i did another one with cz filter, it seem the cz filter is even clearer then B+W and hoya~ but i dunno where i put the photo LMAO

This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 15 2011, 03:48 PM
Codyx
post Feb 15 2011, 03:19 PM

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Newbieeeeee
post Feb 15 2011, 03:28 PM

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hmm.. i'm sorry. i think its because i haven't tried hoya pro 1d. no chance to try. tongue.gif



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