no worries mate.....emm...1 question thou,...has anyone of u guys did the 'FLIP-THE-GRIP' thing on your tail rotor?.....

This post has been edited by cpmboy: Oct 5 2011, 07:56 AM

yup .. i did that ... as per finless
gives a little more anti torque travel for the tail blades
the other logic is .. your tail is almost always countering torque of the main blades .. so pulling the push rod is better than pushing it coz pushing will cause FLEX .. and the small little thin pushrod can bend quite easily if the guides are not in strategic positions
mine has been modded to use CF rod instead of the small little thin push rod ..

what abt ur ball link position on the rudder servo arm?....mine are the 4 arms type..(opps hvnt measure the dist between the ball and the center)

ball link distance was as recommended by finless too .. hehehe
arm position was subtrimmed to center as much as possible while linkage was adjusted to give a little anti torque on the tail blades
the tail blade ideal pitch (in theory) for hovering is about 8* anti torque .. so try to get that as close as possible while center 90* on your servo arm

Hehehe, that was just a test to verify physic ...... of course we dont fly at that level of throttle range lah ... but you can see the effect here with physic.
Maybe we should put it this way, by physic whenever you tilt the rotor disc (that's elev & ail or cyclic) it will actually bring more load to the gear and hence the motor. It will all the time!

BUT, we are spinning at such a high RPM that the optimum cyclic (talking about 8 or 9 degree for trex) is always negligible. For sure this will be more obvious when we get the biggest collective pitch and cyclic pitch altogether, anyway it is rare

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Added on October 5, 2011, 11:07 amAlways follow the setting per the manual for that ball link hole distance, if manual recommends 5mm then just follow 5mm. The distance of the hole play a role in introducing the gain, it is a mechanical gain. If mechanical gain too high (by moving to outter hold from the servo horn center) you will have a hard time adjusting your gyro gain in the Tx .... probably a tail wagging loh ......


Since it is a super combo package, everything should have been tested and verified, so i think better not to deviate from there lah.

The tail of 450 Pro is not hard to setup, it may take some little time to do it. The hardest one to me so far was the tail for a 250 size with self-matching gyro & servo myself. Damn 9 hard to setup, even now it is flyable but not good enough yet compare to my 450.

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Added on October 5, 2011, 11:10 amI also did that in the first place. But then after upgrading some after-market part in the tail I don't have to flip the grip to get what I need from those stock parts.


This post has been edited by daddoo: Oct 5 2011, 11:10 AM

emm..meaning I hv to drill a hole to my servo arm to get 8mm.......so......just to clear things up.....when my servo arm at 90 deg, the tail blade pitch should at least at 8 deg pitch right?..how to measure that one bro?....o ya..when rudder servo arm at 90 deg...does the servo arm at the tail have to be 90 deg also?......and....the linkage must be shorten@lengthen? to give little anti torque

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Added on October 5, 2011, 11:45 amNo worries here mate... so far I just when by the manual ..no mods at the moment. .....and...what after-market upgrade hv u done to ur tail?.......

This post has been edited by cpmboy: Oct 5 2011, 12:05 PM

Just take a look at the manual. It should be 10mm distance but you don't need to drill a hole to make 10mm. Good enough to use the closest distance.

So if in between the hole is 11mm and 9.5mm one, use 9.5mm hole.


Setting up the tail blade pitch to about 8 deg is what people called rate mode setup. I did not follow that but just try to give some anti torque pitch (maybe 3 or 4 only) while trying to keep everything 90 deg.

It is more of a personal preference so if you think you are happy with your tail I think you don't have to follow exactly loh, that's what I think lah

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Added on October 5, 2011, 12:53 pm

Tail pitch linkage, metal bearing mount & Metal Tail Rotor Control Arm Set.

This post has been edited by daddoo: Oct 5 2011, 12:53 PM

where to get one bro?.......

Hobby shop loh

Align did not sell tail pitch linkage afaik, you need to search for Tarot's part for this, the other 2 you can get it easily from rcsmart or mymegastation. Or check with RC366 .......

no need to mod so much or even anything one laa
many just fly it according to manual out of the box and not face any problems ... hehehehe
so just finish up your build and enjoy

no worries mate..Just for my ref so that if something happens to my heli (parts & performance etc) that I knw where to look for the right tools/parts....if really needed la....anyway...now I'm into the ESC programming.......wsh me luck.

most of the fellas in helifreak programs the ESC 1-2-2-2-3
i did that oso ... flew it til today no probs

2 more steps:..ESC and some house tidying.....

then should be able to maiden this weekend already .. hehehe
feel the power of the PRO .. hahahaa

FPV maiden this today ...
FUN FUN FUN !!!
much better handling than my glider ... and much higher speed too .. hehehehe

emm...no maiden yet..its raining since saturday....o..well....actually hvn done the esc yet..he he he...o ya I hv to set the throtte curve in a linear curve 1st in order for the esc to setup properly...right?....

did i mention i have a DIY tricopter too ?? hehehehe
total costs less than rm450 and some of your time ..

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Added on October 10, 2011, 8:16 pmu only need to calibrate your ESC once ...
this is so that the ESC knos your MAX point and MIN point

as for programming the ESC .. i have forgotten which is what laa
dunno whether to enter and confirm is mid stick or low stick
if it has anything to do with mid stick then u need a linear straight line while programming

This post has been edited by QiW: Oct 10 2011, 08:16 PM

got it bro QiW....btw nice tricopter u have there....brilliant...

This post has been edited by cpmboy: Oct 10 2011, 09:18 PM

very ez to DIY the tricopter ..
once u got all the parts needed
2 hours to build the frame .. 2-4 hours to put in electronics and motor
1-2 hours balance the props and setup ....
then FLY ... hehehe