MeonRox.. =) new member in our TT..

Walau eh... really want go Japan to learn all that skill sia !!
Super love their work !!

fc not good.. and to have a look more in detail.. buka engine see the piston and the cylinder.. LOL..

oil filter rm12 if i not wrong.. EO semi syn sure rm20++

If want cheap semi-syn EO... Hi-Rev got liao.. but I forgot what model liao lah.. you have to search.. too far.. still ok lo.. for me I rather use MOTUL 5100 lo.. my next service also 5100.. but want change to 10w-40.. to try the performance... after that.. maybe use amsoil..? order from C&G..

I saw MeonRox just now at INTI Relau... haha. Steady doing TT by himself.

yeay

ok, so tell me, where can find your guys hideout?

oh so all and all sure less than RM50 ?? .. fc no good .... hmm... i dono how to know the fc bad leh .. but i can someting .. i always fly here fly there .. sometimes for a while only sudah kena the red line .. nvm .. the last time i put oil is 918 .. now is 945 already but never see any change in the meter ..

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Added on January 2, 2011, 1:49 pm if i not mistaken MOTUL 5100 is full synthetic right ??

This post has been edited by lautuckwa: Jan 2 2011, 01:49 PM

hi im newbie here.
wanna ask if my LC run-in not yet 200km, i change engine oil to Full syn 5w-50, izzit ok? coz the next day the bike will ride from penang to perlis...
thks.

No need... but just ride no over 90km/h enough... because.. if your LC still new... 1st 1k km is a must.. use mineral based.. after that use 2 time's semi-syn mean 2k km/h 1 time.. after that.. use full syn..

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Added on January 2, 2011, 2:03 pmbut lot of people say it is semi-syn...

This post has been edited by Itsuki_Kun: Jan 2 2011, 02:03 PM

hi,
if use Full syn when engine run in, izzit will affect the engine parts? what is the pros and cons?
thks.

Then you have to wait others to reply you liao.. because I not so know how to explain... hehe..

Got many types of engine break in argument:
1. Some say modern engines no need break in.
2. Some say Diasil no need break in.
3. Some say engine can break in within the first 10-30 minutes using factory oil.

As information accumulate over time, this is what I think:
1. Use light mineral oil for at least first 100-200km, something like 10W-40...
2. Do not over-rev, but play with the throttle more as you ride. Check engine temperature during this period, do not let it get too hot.
3. Once break in period is over, use good EO that has minimum degradation over time like the Amsoil thing.
4. Most EO feels good the first month because its new, and starts to degrade after that.

For inspection, check the piston for black deposits below the piston ring. That is caused by blow-by, if break in not done properly.

As for daily ride, measure the FC and compare againts the standard 40km per liter of petrol.

engine period is 1k km .. but i see a kinda a lot of ppl changing their EO at 705km or 500 miles.. or any whr near 800+.. so no nid to go afdter 1k also nvm la ?? .. beside asking them to take off the engine crackcase < since i am busy with my studies> can i just listen to the engine sound ??

change too often doesn't do any good, only make the cost of running a bike high.
don't want later your LC spend more than superbike...

So, my engine now has a 62mm block / aftermarket valve springs / camshafts.

Do these/other engine components require modification when replacing my current stock CDI for a racing CDI?

Or just plug and play?


EDIT: Or do you recommend a carburettor before the CDI?

Some say the CDI is the most effective in bringing out the most of your big block;
others say the carb is it's best friend.

This post has been edited by SVT40: Jan 2 2011, 10:33 PM

cdi change does bring out the most of ur big block because.. bigger block usually have more power and the stock cdi limits the power.... but limitation of the cdi is the Key to longer lifespan of ur engine.. =) lifespan = less maintenance

but of course this does not mean that u must use stock cdi.. buy a cdi that is adjustable.. =) but in ur case.. 62mm block, tune properly for top end power.. i bet ur bike need a koso meter already.. because finish meter easily in stock.. =) and then make u gila because the jarum kacau ur top speed.. only way is cut ur needle short..remove the yamaha logo in ur meter..

but according to other members here.. they recommend u change bigger carb.. bigger carb means bring in more air fuel for ur engine.. =)

but in my area, my foreman did not recommend to change carb, he says stock carb more than enough.. 61mm with stock carb can give stock meter hit 220km/h..

after all.. tuning a carb need pro foreman... tuning a carb is more difficult than changing bigger block... =)

just my 3 cent..

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Added on January 3, 2011, 1:16 amsometimes i cant help it when i see other budak mat rempit trying to show off and drive fast2 in small highway just to tunjuk to his fren... KNN CCB wan ppl.. and worst thing is that..

when that fella going up a road that is slightly bump.. he willy his bike in 90-100km/h lc meter.. cilaka fella.. then sped off..

and 1 FUNNY thing is.. he wear a half shell helmet look like the arc raider II helmet type.. and carry a mini backpack.. like the one i saw in penang bridge doing superman stunt in rxz.. fkin retards...
see how that fella willy..

Enjoy the ride.

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Added on January 3, 2011, 1:26 amBefore going further, need to know what is the compression ratio of your new setup. With this, we can tell if your engine can go high RPM or not. Only then decide to switch bigger carb and CDI. I'm no expert, but this kind of thing better leave to experienced foreman.

Can your engine go high RPM now? What is the sprocket setting and max RPM at top speed now?

This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 3 2011, 01:26 AM

hey alex.. wanna ask something... lets say if our bike got no rpm meter.. how do u guys estimate the rpm...? based on intuition..?? =) wanna ask.. like bm jeff.. he say when u work in engine field for long term.. u'll know it just by listening...

Thanks.
So if I get a new CDI, adjustable as you say, is it plug and play?
Or must certain engine components be removed again for some modifications?


It now hits 8k-9k rpm compared to the 7k rpm limit when this bike was stock.

I haven't tested the top speed and max rpm yet. I doubt the top end increases by much - the top end RPM should probably increase to 8k compared to the pre-modified 7k rpm at top speed.

Sprocket is stock.

This post has been edited by SVT40: Jan 3 2011, 02:31 AM

I cannot answer you because I cannot estimate RPM just by listening, and I don't think I'll be a good rider without the RPM meter.
Let me ask this: Can you drive or ride without a speedometer? Cannot, right? To me, RPM meter is just as important.

Reminds me of the first time I sit in the car of my driving school. It was a kancil, and the first thing I told the instructor was:"How come no RPM meter one? I cannot drive."

Sorry misunderstood ur question earlier. Yes, aftermarket CDI is PnP.