This is the one without the end can... anyone tried on LC?

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 23 2010, 01:58 PM

Like machai said, find a way to replace it.
If you're going for cost, here's my take:
1. Is the EO leaking? How bad is the crack? I hope not like the pic where the footrest also come off leh..
2. If not serious, wash the area thoroughly, buy metal resin compound, and tampal it.

Paiseh this weekend boh-eng, public holiday mah... I'll need to find time and ping you, ok?

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 4 2010, 08:23 PM

Sunday also can... we'll start talking when time comes...

wah, very hard to figure out when or where it was taken though...

Btw, I came across this information - regarding WHY OUR BIKES' STEERING CAN WOBBLE LEFT RIGHT, even in straight line: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble

When this happen, better change tyre and do front suspension check up.

@Jing, our bike got problem ade...

The metal resin is to tampal cracks, can find in hardware shops. About 10-20 a set.

I use similar resins to tampal coverset screw mounting, repair plastic and fix my shoes.
Some are known to called 'two tonne gum'. It works better than single compound glue like those superglue or kangaroo/dunlop resin.

If your footrest mounting came off already, need to change. If I had known earlier, I'd suggest you call up SYSCAST.com, as they make crankcase cover for motorcycle, direct supplier, sure cheaper. Just wasn't sure they make for LC or not, but I know they make for EX5 and Kriss..

Sure can, done it before, and still doing...

For cornering, the trick is to keep the bike as upright as possible.
One thing to remember, when turning a bike at normal speed - Push left, lean left, go left. Don't do this during slow speed.

Old riding style is to apply foot pressure on the outer pegs. Example, when doing left turn, more weight is applied on right foot.
Rossi is doing something different, by applying it on the inner pegs.
If you watch GP, can see he lift his outer leg when cornering... Learn to ride either way and see which one you are more confident with.

Like Are_keem said, BE A SMART RIDER...

see the utube i posted in the spoiler i posted...

@Charge: Saw you this morning... easy riding nia. How's the bike?

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Added on November 8, 2010, 2:22 pmThis one: http://www.mudah.my/Sportrim+tzm+japan+utk...5zr-7639371.htm

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 8 2010, 02:22 PM

No lah, a Kenari...

what's going on? Meeting at NBH is it?

I see...

Slightly heavy, will put more load on gear box components. Suggest if for stock setting and you're a light person, reduce rear sprocket by 2-3 gears...

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 9 2010, 06:55 PM

Manifold has several critical dimension. The exit diameter, the length, and the exit taper angle.

From what I know, exit diameter should be slightly bigger than exhaust port size and maintain the same diameter for a certain length, before the manifold tapers outward like a cone shape. This cone shape will create a suction force into the manifold straight area drawing exhaust gas out. That's why some engine can see fire burn at exhaust end, coz the suction + timing overlap draw AF mixture into the exhaust chamber... and then there is Powerbomb.

No one tried it here. Interesting subject. Have you tried it? Sayang wanna saw on my engine head though.

This is a different school of thoughts regarding compression/squish area inside the combustion zone - It's about creating turbulence within the block, instead of getting a good AF mixture before it enters the block.

Years back, there was another guy, from India too, I think, who created pits and dents (randomly) on the piston surface and squish area, which improved fuel economy. Since he had no money, it ended up just as another story on the internet - urban legend.

Turbulence and fuel atomization is important for carburated engine, less a problem for FI engines.

oh yeah, now you mention in...

thanks man... I'm a two-stroker. Don't know much about cams. Take my words lightly.



This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 13 2010, 03:48 PM

Not sifu lah, basic understanding only. Remember my RGV slower than LC? Haha...
2T goes to crankshaft and eventually will be burned together with petrol. 4T only lubes the gearbox.

What tyre are you using now? And do you have any problems with it?

Avoid Dunlop TT5 and TT9 - tayar can kembang and harden and crack.
Avoid VIVA & FKR - very lasting with little grip.

Can try Maxxis, DURO Taiwan, FDR (Indo). Maxxis and DURO also make racing compound tyres.

Brands heard before but not familiar: Michiyama, Swallow, Shinko (Korea), Unilli aka Acme...

Currently using Pilot Sporty and Farrelli.

Tyre size should match with rim size.
110/70 need at least 2.15.

@anep: No need, like Cheang said... For the rear tyre, check if it has something like 90/80R. If got "R", means rear tyre only.

@shawal: I got them at Tokico Penang, RM110 front, RM185 rear. This was last year. Should be cheaper now. 1.85 should be good with 100.

Battlax should last 6~8000km. If the tyre botak and square, that means the rider not extreme rider, can go for cheaper tyre liao.
Road tyre can probably go up to 10000km. I'm still measuring my Pilot, rarely use.

Pilot Sporty traction is 6 dry and 6 wet, out of 10, rated by Michelin themselves. Michiyama is racing compound of Farelli, that's right. IRC is Inoue Rubber Co (Japan), another OEM tire for LC next to VIVA (according to the service manual), and its made by FKR Malaysia, kinda like their racing compound also. So far the Goldwing also quite good. The mat EX5 in Penang would use Dunlop TT100 or the IRC Goldwing. I would give MA-3D a try too. Aaron is the main user here...

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Added on November 15, 2010, 1:34 pmI use Farrelli becoz cheap, ~RM60 only. Just RM5 more than VIVA. The bunga is rough good for rainy weather. Looking at some old photographs of racing bikes, they actually use this type of sotong tyre last time.

This post has been edited by alexei: Nov 15 2010, 01:34 PM