push it to 3 stops and see what happen. after all, it's part of a learning process

E6 developing is only available at E6 Lab at Pudu Plaza. the last time i heard was the cost to develop a roll of 135 format (plus mounting) is rm 40. i usually develop the 4x5 trans. rm 10 per piece.

just want to share some information on the B&W films. unless you were using the CN type, usually the B&W films need more attention than the usual CN (Colour Negatives aka C-41 process) films.

conventional B&W films are also known as silver halide films and they use different type of chemicals to process. can't use machine to process these films and one has to do hand process and therefore, mixture of chemicals and etc are very critical.

what i will suggest to those who shoot B&W is to go to someone who knows how to process these type of films. or at least have massive experience in doing them. people like Yoong has been processing these films for years and therefore, you will surely get good results from him. there is a lab in shah alam, glenmarie area with the name of COMCOLOR. there is another sifu there by the name of Alan Ng. he has been processing his own B&W films for the past 30 years.

i stop doing B&W process myself 10 years ago. I used to teach students in tertiary education in doing these process. it took me like 5 to 7 years to perfect my development. it's not an easy job.

what i want to say is: don't let noobies ruin your films. it's not the money that hurt you the most. it's the lost of images that hurt

i think you can. check on the type of chemicals that require to push this films to 3 stops.
but why don't just get a 3200 films? TMAX 3200 or DELTA 3200?

ermm, what i am saying here is consistent results. contrast and tonal wise.
besides, learning it is easy, but perfecting it is difficult. i am sure medical students learn brain surgery in a day or two but doing a good job in it?

ermm, you can get a 3rd class degree in 4 years. and of course you can learn how to process a roll of black and white film in 3 hours.

but it is a different pot of soup altogether if you want to master in processing black and white films

hiroboroi,

it's true that there are only 3 chemicals involve in black and white developing. more if one is more how to say, concern about the outcome of the negatives.

film developer, stop bath and fixer are the 3 main chemicals. you mentioned less. some do not use stop bath and use only water.

i mentioned more. i use photo-flo/wetting agent to reduce the water marks on negatives. some will use rapid washing to reduce the time used to wash the negatives after the fixing step.

as i have said, it takes one 3 hours to learn how to process their own black and white film (with supervision). i used to teach classes like this everyday last time. it's easy. and i am sure you will be able to learn how to process the film in 3 hours, not 7 years. it's the perfecting the skill that takes the longer time.

p/s: if it's only 3 steps of chemicals and thus, simple enough for amateurs to do, why do certain photography labs who are doing it professionally gets 'splotches of batshit' result?

p/s II: 3rd class degree means a CGPA lower than 2.5 and not where you get it. you get an average of C in all your result and you will get a 3rd class degree... even from MIT. heck, MIT might not have it because you will be kicked out long before you graduate i suppose.

p/s III: it will take even longer to perfect the skill in printing. i have known ILFORD certified master printers in london who took them 40 years to get the certification. and of course, it's not rocket science. it's art.

or better, use a densitometer, if you can find one around.

riggo, usually densitometer is used by pro lab or university/college or super hobbyist black and white photographer.
i learnt how to use one in college actually and seen it when my colleague was using it to check on the ESIX process for kodak.

rx330,
developing the film is some kind of 'pp' - what chemical to use, etc.
print out is some kind of 'pp' - what type of paper used. burn, dodge, types of chemicals used. technique of printing, etc.

hmmm?
so what do you think yourself?

i think 'pp' is necessary to create something that we want. not necessary a must but i think it's necessary to do if one would like the image to be something that one sees in one's mind eyes

HCB's photographs are very different from Ansel Adam's photographs. Besides, by simply choosing this b/w film rather than that b/w film is already a 'pp'. no meh?

rx330,
the velvia are still slightly underexpose, no? it could be my cheapo work place monitor though.

on the other hand, the extar looks good. i have 10 rolls of them in 120 format in my freezer hehehee

hmm, don't worry lah. you live you learn.

you haven't done that 'film didn't load properly and without you noticing it and you thought it's loaded and you happily shoot whole roll of film until the end you realise the film wasn't loaded' mistake.

0168257061,
and how much are you thinking of selling?

why don't you just reduce the magenta cast?
i don't remember seeing superia films having the magenta cast before. could be the scanner or something

hahaa rx330, i think i have told you this before. but welcome to the world of films. finger prints and dust and newton rings are films worst nightmare!
get a film cleaning cloth to clean it.

professional films usually have a short life cycle.
the expiry date is more or less 2 year only

yup.
in fact that is what Hiroshi Sugimoto did.
he asked kodak to produce a container load of black and white 8x10 films for him to last him a life time.
and he just keep it in an industry grade freezer. those that you can walk in type.

you have to keep the films in the 'plastic tupperware', in the aluminum foil if it's the larger format.
what i do is i put all these films into one of those sandwich ziplock bag.