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 ^^==>LYN Yamaha 135LC Club V6<==^^, >>>Ridershood Spirit Continues<<<

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Spayz
post Oct 28 2010, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(Aaron135LC @ Oct 28 2010, 09:27 AM)


Added on October 28, 2010, 9:28 am
Chris go perang! Bom bom bom! Haha
*
BOM YOUR HEAD LA tongue.gif
if im part of the kamikaze squad i'll gladly do it, but im notttttttt


QUOTE(alexei @ Oct 28 2010, 11:15 AM)
Your ori pipe rusted and broke already mah, so mah have to change lo. Correct boh? wink.gif
*
been done 'TRIED' that, didnt work for me, that was the ONLY 1 time i kena saman for my pipe, took away my RM9 cry.gif cry.gif cry.gif
he said he use his LC for dunno how many years his pipe didnt rust also, and he say kenot rust wan bla bla bla, you tipu bla bla bla dun lie to polis bla bla bla,

you get the point smile.gif
Itsuki_Kun
post Oct 28 2010, 11:36 AM

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paling sui eh is.. bike aku kena xcident.. nasib tak baik ckit.. ekzos dah kemek... =( terpaksa guna caplang punya ekzos dulu... xD
machai_world
post Oct 28 2010, 11:49 AM

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QUOTE(Xtremo @ Oct 28 2010, 03:18 AM)
hi all LC-ians..
i just buy new Yamaha 135LC Extreme Spirit..i'm really new here..
what should i do to maintance engine n motorcycle performance...
any suggestion regarding minyak hitam,CDI n et.cetera..
n one more thing,is it the clucth one have more problem than non-clutch LC...
really need help here..thanks!!
*
Let's discuss about maintainance first [b'coz important isnt it]

for me...

[First 1000 km mileage]
first 250km - not more than 60km/h
2nd 250km - not more than 80km/h
3rd 500km - not more than 100km/h

change EO [Motul 3000 10w-40 Mineral] and ori OF

[2nd 1000 km mileage]
500km pantang - not more than 100km/h
next 500km/h - not more than 120 km/h

then change to Motul 300v Factory Line,Linx Selenia, Castrol fully synthetic with new oil filter... Speedinggg...


must remember every changing new type of EO need to use new OF [i.e: Motul 5100 Ester > Motul 300v Factory Line ]
and every oil filter can use every 2 time EO changing

next
2. SPARK PLUG - every 8000km [recommend NGK G-Power]
3. BEARING TAYAR - 10000KM (check/tukar jika perlu)
4. Oil filter (tukar sekali ngan minyak enjin)
5. Air filter element- 20,000KM(tukar jika perlu)
6. Check paras air bateri(utk bateri biasa)(setiap minggu)
7. Check air rediator(setiap minggu)
8. Minyakkan dan tegangkan rantai.(setiap minggu)
9. Check tekanan angin tayor (seminggu sekali)
10. Brake fluid - setiap 30,000km / dua tahun sekali
11. Fork oil - setiap 40,000km / dua tahun sekali
12. Coolant - setiap 10,000km masa adjust valve Roll Eyes
13. Brake pads - setiap 10,000km / bila perlu
14. Liquid Coolant - clean and refill every 2 years or refill bila dah nak abis

OPTIONAL:
CHANGE NEW TYRE [b'coz im oredy use Vee Rubber within 5 month oredy keluar dawai]
u need to know rear tyre cepat botak than front tyre
recommend to use with average budget: 80/90 or 90/80 size with below i list it
Swallow Thunder [cheap but good grip]
Maxxis M6002
Maxxis Diamond 3D

for performance without engine modify:
for sure its sprocket combination

Front teeth | Rear teeth= Gear Ratio

[TOP SPEED]
16 35 = 2.19
16 36 = 2.25
16 37 = 2.31
15 35 = 2.33
16 38 = 2.38
15 36 = 2.4
16 39 = 2.44
15 37 = 2.47
16 40 = 2.5
14 35 = 2.5
15 38 = 2.53 [I'M ON TESTING OF THIS COMBINATION]
16 41 = 2.56
14 36 = 2.57

15 39 = 2.6 Stock gear ratio

[PICK UP]
16 42 = 2.63
14 37 = 2.64
15 40 = 2.67
16 43 = 2.69
14 38 = 2.71
15 41 = 2.73
16 44 = 2.75
14 39 = 2.79
15 42 = 2.8
16 45 = 2.81
14 40 = 2.86
15 43 = 2.87
16 46 = 2.88
14 41 = 2.93
15 44 = 2.93
15 45 = 3
14 42 = 3
15 46 = 3.07
14 43 = 3.07
14 44 = 3.14
14 45 = 3.21
14 46 = 3.29


so if you want more top speed than stock settings
use 14t front and 36t rear
or 16t front and 41t rear

if you want more acceleration
use 13t front and 34t rear
or 16t front and 42t rear

and depend on your weight and riding skill factor

BIGGER TIRES (100/80 and up): TOP SPEED
SMALLER TIRES (80/80 and below): PICK UP

This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 28 2010, 11:56 AM
alexei
post Oct 28 2010, 11:56 AM

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QUOTE(Spayz @ Oct 28 2010, 11:31 AM)
BOM YOUR HEAD LA  tongue.gif
if im part of the kamikaze squad i'll gladly do it, but im notttttttt
*
"Perang" is the sounds when you start engine eh, not ask you go to war. We know you're not kamikaze squad lah.
Fact is, we ride our bike to work or school rain or shine, that's why can get rust loh.

Guys, I'm changing my front Dunlop TT900 to Farrelli F1800 (arrow with bunga kasar) liao, 70/90 (stock) and my rear been using Farrelli F1000 (non-directional with bunga kasar) for quite a while.

This month TT last weekend, anyone go ah?
Itsuki_Kun
post Oct 28 2010, 12:04 PM

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31 oct ? maybe I can go for half day... for teluk bahang lar.. if go taipeng then cannot liao.. or I try set my timetable..
anep
post Oct 28 2010, 12:25 PM

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guys, what is the different between rm160 to 1.4k CDI? the jib just to 'cut' the cut off aite?
alexei
post Oct 28 2010, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(anep @ Oct 28 2010, 12:25 PM)
guys, what is the different between rm160 to 1.4k CDI? the jib just to 'cut' the cut off aite?
*
CDI is a complicated animal. Read here for detailed service explanation.
In fact, CDI is the whole ignition system, and you must be referring to the CDI box, which is kinda like the ECU in a car.

CDI function to 'receive' ignition trigger, and then determine 'when' to ignite the spark plug. This is called "firing angle" and is determine by 'degrees BTDC'. Ideal firing angle is different at all RPM, and this affect engine performance THE MOST.

The 'cutoff' is only a way to protect from over-revving. Prepare to fix engine damages when over-rev too many times.

Changing different CDI can feel difference for most rider. If got dyno to tune CDI, would be the best.

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Itsuki_Kun
post Oct 28 2010, 02:01 PM

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Just now meet another blocking again.. I want to stop.. but they "don't allow" me to stop... =)
Aaron135LC
post Oct 28 2010, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(Itsuki_Kun @ Oct 28 2010, 02:01 PM)
Just now meet another blocking again.. I want to stop.. but they "don't allow" me to stop... =)
*
then wat happen..?? haha

more pics on the new jupiter mx..

This post has been edited by Aaron135LC: Oct 28 2010, 02:18 PM


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Itsuki_Kun
post Oct 28 2010, 02:15 PM

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Nothing happen... just little problem to me... I slow down already.. then ma change to 1st gear lo.. then I use my "pretty" eye look him.. he look me back and call me go... after that.. vroom~ change gear... VROOM!! oops.. change to N gear ki... =.="

1 more thing.. I bo on head lamp too.. haha

This post has been edited by Itsuki_Kun: Oct 28 2010, 02:16 PM
Aaron135LC
post Oct 28 2010, 02:18 PM

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QUOTE(Itsuki_Kun @ Oct 28 2010, 02:15 PM)
Nothing happen... just little problem to me... I slow down already.. then ma change to 1st gear lo.. then I use my "pretty" eye look him.. he look me back and call me go... after that.. vroom~ change gear... VROOM!! oops.. change to N gear ki... =.="

1 more thing.. I bo on head lamp too.. haha
*
haha.. the headlamp have to see how wan.. but so far i din kena punn...
Itsuki_Kun
post Oct 28 2010, 02:27 PM

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Haha ! so syok eh ! xD but just hope don't meet tiok traffic police enough... then "thank sky thank land" d.. haha
anep
post Oct 28 2010, 02:27 PM

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meaning there are not much differences between cheap n expensive CDI? other than can be programmable..
thinking of try to change it but afraid of getting local n imitation CDi that will damage the machine
Itsuki_Kun
post Oct 28 2010, 02:33 PM

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anyway.. stock CDI is the best la.. if you didn't mod your engine... or try thai ori cdi pun can...
anep
post Oct 28 2010, 02:37 PM

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QUOTE(Itsuki_Kun @ Oct 28 2010, 02:33 PM)
anyway.. stock CDI is the best la.. if you didn't mod your engine... or try thai ori cdi pun can...
*
the orange one? i search at mudah.my only cost rm100-200..that one reliable or not?
can feel the difference or not?
alexei
post Oct 28 2010, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(anep @ Oct 28 2010, 02:27 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

meaning there are not much differences between cheap n expensive CDI? other than can be programmable..
thinking of try to change it but afraid of getting local n imitation CDi that will damage the machine
*
Got difference, it's just that we cannot tell for sure, unless use a dyno to measure the output.
If not, buying an aftermarket is like buying lottery ticket. smile.gif

If firing angle to advanced and the combustion wave front hit the piston to early, will damage engine. If too delayed, engine will feel slow, combustion wave front will go into exhaust manifold - loud exhaust pipe, low FC, and overheating the manifold. It has to be ngam-ngam one...
Itsuki_Kun
post Oct 28 2010, 02:42 PM

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that got cutoff.. I think the rest confirm same with our ori cdi.. make sure you buy the CDI got connect to fan's function.. otherwise.. say sayonara to your bike if keep ride long distance...

but must find your friend's bike which got koso meter to test the CDI..
because maybe it's not ori from thai..
machai_world
post Oct 28 2010, 03:20 PM

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CDI i do use when engine is oredy can burst maximum CDI speed...hehehe

what is diff between rmxxx vs rm1xxx ?
- of coz,mid and high-end type with more specific function...mostly user use adjustable not programmable [melainkan you selalu main dyno]....that i can say... cut off or not it depend on you setting and cdi...i recommend that free-play type...not 20k rpm still not cutoff [especially oren one]... lastly, pick original one not fake, cause lot case coil problem due of CDI kong

recommend to use:
CDI REXTOR ADJUSTABLE V3 LC135 or
CDI BRT HYPERBAND DC [max 20k rpm]
mr_habuk
post Oct 28 2010, 03:38 PM

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dengg...i've already test out top speed lorr...not even reach 100km lgpun.. doh.gif huhu...

alexei
post Oct 28 2010, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(machai_world @ Oct 28 2010, 03:20 PM)
CDI i do use when engine is oredy can burst maximum CDI speed...hehehe

what is diff between rmxxx vs rm1xxx ?
- of coz,mid and high-end type with more specific function...mostly user use adjustable not programmable [melainkan you selalu main dyno]....that i can say... cut off or not it depend on you setting and cdi...i recommend that free-play type...not 20k rpm still not cutoff [especially oren one]... lastly, pick original one not fake, cause lot case coil problem due of CDI kong

recommend to use:
CDI REXTOR ADJUSTABLE V3 LC135 or
CDI BRT HYPERBAND DC [max 20k rpm]
*
Thanks. I have no experience with CDI, so I don't make recommendations. smile.gif
Even when I go NBH for CDI, he told me to use stock one for my RGV. tongue.gif

Rextor can adjust. BRT Hyperband can adjust or not?


Added on October 28, 2010, 4:32 pm
QUOTE(mr_habuk @ Oct 28 2010, 03:38 PM)
dengg...i've already test out top speed lorr...not even reach 100km lgpun.. doh.gif huhu...
*
Ddon't drag engine too long is fine.

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 28 2010, 04:32 PM

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