helo everybody...long time no write any on LYN either LC thread...

after few month learning selok belok of internal parts...heres is my future modification

60mm bore kit
Copper top gasket
CMS Valve spring
CMS HiCam
CDI BRT Neo Dual Band
CJ Ipoh Racing Muffler MN
Carburetor standard...adjust pilot and mainjet.
Maxxis Diamond 3D 90/80 Front and Rear
Sprocket combination will adjust till suit at me when riding brand RKM/SSS
NGK Power G plug
Linx Selenia Full Synthetic

any comment

This post has been edited by machai_world: Sep 9 2010, 09:34 AM

pusingan truttle cmner...kalau pulas kosong agi...dats mean kena tukar cdi kena up lagi RPM

hati2 kalau amek cdi unlimited RPM...mau pecah enjin kalau sedap2 je gear 1 gi sampai 120km/h...

CDI aftermaket ni up top skit jer...pickap ada nek...

"TUKAR CDI, TAKKAN JADI MOTOR GILA LAJU", ingat tu...

hehe....new to modify...i suggest you with this recipe

MDS 60mm Bore kit [korek piston abit] or other thick sleeve [16x cc]
Head better you make porting and polish
CMS Valve Spring
CMS Hi-Cam or Custom Hi-cam
For carb...i suggest you to change suitable mainjet and pilotjet
CDI i suggest BRT Hyperband or other adjustable not programable
Change gear-4 [gearbox] to racing spec [21T/23T]
Gasket racing [infact of that, u need to buy Copper gasket for block to void leaking solution]
EO u need to use mineral type for new piston ring [for new installation and after 1k mileage]@i suggest Motul 3000
Oil Filter every new and after 1k mileage...
NGK G-Power....
changing new sprocket combination [follow your spec[pickup or top] and your body weight] diff setting diff combination
change new exhaust [for big manifold i.e Nobi,Yoshimura,CJ Ipoh,bm power etc]....anytype [dun take open exhaust type i.e YY-Pang,Endurance etc]


if you worried about compression go get this recipe
FZ150i bore kit FULL SET [150cc]
FZ150i crankshaft with 2mm jackrod [dun know how much +cc]
Custom Hicam
CMS Valve spring
For carb...i suggest you to change suitable mainjet and pilotjet
CDI i suggest BRT Hyperband or other adjustable not programable
Change gear-4 [gearbox] to racing spec [21T/23T]
EO u need to use mineral type for new piston ring [for new installation and after 1k mileage]@i suggest Motul 3000
Oil Filter every new and after 1k mileage...
NGK G-Power....
changing new sprocket combination [follow your spec[pickup or top] and your body weight] diff setting diff combination
about exhaust...not sure to change or not...better change new for large one manifold

LASTLY: PANTANG YOUR MOTOR FOR 2k...

MODIFY ENGINE WOULD EAT YOUR EO BANYAK

TOTAL COST: NOT MORE THAN 1.2k maybe

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Added on October 10, 2010, 10:09 pm1 - MDS or other thicker sleeve RM100
2 - YSS 7-step type RM140
3 - Racingboy RM70
4 - KIPS RM200
5 - X1R or Racingboy RM250
6 - Bridgeston Battlex BT39 RM250
7 - BRT series +-RM300

I add up...for front tyre...Maxxis 3D RM100

TOTAL: RM+-1400

This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 10 2010, 10:11 PM

hehe,not for condemn...here my few feedback from nobi user...

one of that is

"Hujung ejos nobi [cover plastik]....senang cair....[u can't replace that]"

"bunyik saja sedap, tak pegi mana pun....tarak power lah especially trioval....[tried to get AHM/AHAU one which better or Yoshimura much much much much better...hahaha]

BECAREFULL picking YYPang / Endurance / AHM open type if your engine not really ready....that is open type...HATI2 LAH...hahaha

YYPang vs AHM... which better...both better in performance....if use in std engine...TAK BOLEH BLAH....

bout racing suit...you can got it for approx rm1k....diff quality diff pain in accident...hehe

This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 11 2010, 01:01 AM

for me...

Alpinestar Cordura padding shirt RM180
Knee padding RM80
Alpinestar Glove RM100
Fieldsheer boot not sure with price

hehe u mean chamber ?...fake one use alumnium type ie Yoshimurah Titan Slip...

u can ask shop wat manifold u want...?

Try to get ori one...RM6xx...even my fren use that on his std engine...no prob...but much better
ermm...the best u can found at Takim....he can custom exhaust that follow your request

sample


yang atas tuh...yang bawah tu AHM....

muehehe....nak kasi u paham...

not sure wat type of steel Takim use it...

hope end of this year would ask real yoshimura chamber wit manifold...

muehehehe

ermm...about material i dun really sure what type it is...bout the performance...is down maybe

about HID...try to get abit yellow one [default colour]....other than that can blur you vision on road when rain and cloudy place...

try to get new one la...so u will know what the prob that cause by you not by old user....

new one..RM6k...[used bike would cost 5k+]


IN PLANNING TO SELL PERFOMANCE PART FOR LC135,KRISS,GT128 ETC....END OF THIS YEAR...WAIT YAHH...
block,cam,valve spring etc..etc..

This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 11 2010, 10:46 PM

@ghost squad:

brape rm utk modi cmni?
- Block Taikom 61mm [siap buat pocket valve]
- CMS Valve spring
- CMS Racing Hi-cam
- Copper head n block gasket
- Porting and polish head
- Tune MJ,PJ carburetor

wan ask somthing...what is max rpm for BRT Hyperband...?

planning to install footrest X1R and do tuning [with new sprocket combination] hope to get OUTMETER result

all std inside....sprocket combination and jetting is coming soon....wan do till outmeter in std condition

top set in budget end of year or early next year...hehehe

anybody wan join me in UTM Racing? dyno test and tuning would charging RM100 [inc. advice]

uih...jgn la smpi jadi cermin...pecah la molekul minyak...ahaha

UTM Racing tu kat Gombak...salah satu team cubprix punyer bengkel...ada dyno machine...ada mmber wat dyno and tuning...

sejahat2 moto tu degil 110km/h da leh jadi ketuk meter....walaupun enjin std gaban...

ES and SS footrace is same...the diff is racingboy or yamaha ori and fake type u wan...

difference:
Racingboy: Kemas, tinggi skit.
Yamaha X1R fake [i use it]: lower skit dr rb[kaki pun sedap],x suma lubang matching
yamaha ori: dun know about it

there are few condition that u need consider when use footrace:
- brake drum blakang x makan langsung [need alter abit,sampai makan brake]
- tak sesuai utk kaki tnggi [sakit kaki meyh riding lama2],kaki pendek sedap arh
- best braking is Brakedisc

thanks

erkk...u find default one or racing type....since u said flip...if default one,yes,the pedal for LC ES can flip

Let's discuss about maintainance first [b'coz important isnt it]

for me...

[First 1000 km mileage]
first 250km - not more than 60km/h
2nd 250km - not more than 80km/h
3rd 500km - not more than 100km/h

change EO [Motul 3000 10w-40 Mineral] and ori OF

[2nd 1000 km mileage]
500km pantang - not more than 100km/h
next 500km/h - not more than 120 km/h

then change to Motul 300v Factory Line,Linx Selenia, Castrol fully synthetic with new oil filter... Speedinggg...


must remember every changing new type of EO need to use new OF [i.e: Motul 5100 Ester > Motul 300v Factory Line ]
and every oil filter can use every 2 time EO changing

next
2. SPARK PLUG - every 8000km [recommend NGK G-Power]
3. BEARING TAYAR - 10000KM (check/tukar jika perlu)
4. Oil filter (tukar sekali ngan minyak enjin)
5. Air filter element- 20,000KM(tukar jika perlu)
6. Check paras air bateri(utk bateri biasa)(setiap minggu)
7. Check air rediator(setiap minggu)
8. Minyakkan dan tegangkan rantai.(setiap minggu)
9. Check tekanan angin tayor (seminggu sekali)
10. Brake fluid - setiap 30,000km / dua tahun sekali
11. Fork oil - setiap 40,000km / dua tahun sekali
12. Coolant - setiap 10,000km masa adjust valve Roll Eyes
13. Brake pads - setiap 10,000km / bila perlu
14. Liquid Coolant - clean and refill every 2 years or refill bila dah nak abis

OPTIONAL:
CHANGE NEW TYRE [b'coz im oredy use Vee Rubber within 5 month oredy keluar dawai]
u need to know rear tyre cepat botak than front tyre
recommend to use with average budget: 80/90 or 90/80 size with below i list it
Swallow Thunder [cheap but good grip]
Maxxis M6002
Maxxis Diamond 3D

for performance without engine modify:
for sure its sprocket combination

Front teeth | Rear teeth= Gear Ratio

[TOP SPEED]
16 35 = 2.19
16 36 = 2.25
16 37 = 2.31
15 35 = 2.33
16 38 = 2.38
15 36 = 2.4
16 39 = 2.44
15 37 = 2.47
16 40 = 2.5
14 35 = 2.5
15 38 = 2.53 [I'M ON TESTING OF THIS COMBINATION]
16 41 = 2.56
14 36 = 2.57

15 39 = 2.6 Stock gear ratio

[PICK UP]
16 42 = 2.63
14 37 = 2.64
15 40 = 2.67
16 43 = 2.69
14 38 = 2.71
15 41 = 2.73
16 44 = 2.75
14 39 = 2.79
15 42 = 2.8
16 45 = 2.81
14 40 = 2.86
15 43 = 2.87
16 46 = 2.88
14 41 = 2.93
15 44 = 2.93
15 45 = 3
14 42 = 3
15 46 = 3.07
14 43 = 3.07
14 44 = 3.14
14 45 = 3.21
14 46 = 3.29


so if you want more top speed than stock settings
use 14t front and 36t rear
or 16t front and 41t rear

if you want more acceleration
use 13t front and 34t rear
or 16t front and 42t rear

and depend on your weight and riding skill factor

BIGGER TIRES (100/80 and up): TOP SPEED
SMALLER TIRES (80/80 and below): PICK UP

This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 28 2010, 11:56 AM

CDI i do use when engine is oredy can burst maximum CDI speed...hehehe

what is diff between rmxxx vs rm1xxx ?
- of coz,mid and high-end type with more specific function...mostly user use adjustable not programmable [melainkan you selalu main dyno]....that i can say... cut off or not it depend on you setting and cdi...i recommend that free-play type...not 20k rpm still not cutoff [especially oren one]... lastly, pick original one not fake, cause lot case coil problem due of CDI kong

recommend to use:
CDI REXTOR ADJUSTABLE V3 LC135 or
CDI BRT HYPERBAND DC [max 20k rpm]

normal...itu bunyik clutch...xde pe pun...

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Added on October 28, 2010, 7:20 pmhyperband PnP...


This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 28 2010, 07:20 PM

Sentul NKS that middle one

TRY to get BRT brand..get the original one:
BRT Hyperband PnP RM2xx
Rextor Adjustable V3 RM3xx
BRT NEO CLICK DUALBAND Adjust RM3xx
CDI BRT SMARTCLICK DC DUALBAND Adjust RM3xx

Lain kedai,lain harge







LAST WORD:


This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 28 2010, 08:03 PM

hehe...kuat makan bateri tuh...hehehe

is it possible to make:

low beam - no light on head lamp and and no light on lampu kecil di dada [but signal light still functional on low-beam]

hi-beam - headlamp bring hi-beam and lampu kecil di dada funtional...

This post has been edited by machai_world: Oct 28 2010, 11:22 PM