The autoclutch screw can be adjusted.

For manual clutch, what EO you use? It happens to me when move to semi-syn & fully syn on my RGV. I'm gonna try RM10 mineral EO next time and see how that goes. In my case, gear shifting become easier when engine warm up properly. In some cases, it becomes more difficult. This is assuming nothing wrong with the gears.

Ask you guys, when switch gear, do you just tap the gear lightly and kinda wait for the gear to shift in by itself, like spring loaded mechanism, or you step it in? I used to be able to do that on RGV, but now cannot, because of the above...

kossong throttle? Can explain a bit?
Convert AC to MC is changing the clutch housing, clutch plate only. How much it cost you? Can share?

Is it that motorshop under umbrella one? Taukeh is chop head one.

Measure the inner diameter of the carb output (smaller air port). See my siggy for LC stock.
Not many gf out there will support bf buy KIPS one, serious.
You should listen to her on this one... *poison~poison...

TS125 carb is a Suzuki 2-stroke carb.

TS125: VM24SS Bore x stroke: 56x50
125Z: VM22SS Bore x stroke 53.8x54.7
RGV: VM20SS Bore x Stroke 56x40

I'm considering changing to this carb liao...
From the borexstroke, can see 125z has more potential to mod, using bigger bore. RGV cannot liao, unless change crankshaft...

This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 26 2010, 01:29 PM

That's the design loh, i donno also. But this engine low end torque is poor, compensated by a long exhaust chamber. If change to racing exhaust, short and fat, the acceleration will suffer liao, but once reach high RPM, comes the tiger liao.

taiko sekalian, can the LC stock pipe be disassembled? Or the whole thing is welded together?

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Added on August 26, 2010, 6:13 pmI wanna help, see if the TPS thing can be transferred to new carb. I know it can be removed from the top of the carb one... what do you think?

This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 26 2010, 06:13 PM

Service to remove water and rust and things that grow on the carb. Better do it at least once a year.

FB again? don't la... I can't see...

thanks...

zelk: Do you suspect someone tried to steal your absorber?

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Added on August 27, 2010, 3:24 pmLooks like a direct translation. We've had that wiki since Sept 2009...

I hope BRT if you're reading this, introduce yourself here. We welcome you.

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Added on August 27, 2010, 3:28 pmanyway, that thread is locked...
tomorrow 10am!!!

This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 27 2010, 03:28 PM

TT session = Teh Tarik session...

Ini stok paip mia CSI pic:

From: yamahat135.com, thanks to bizzy.

Actually, it reminded me of this one:

It's a Bose woofer interior design.

Looking at the design, here are my thoughts:

The manifold ends with a 'cone' shape, and extends with a perforated inline silencer before the exhaust gas enters the silencer chamber.
- The narrowing cut kinda like 2-stroke exhaust. It functions to 'supercharge' the compression as the exhaust pulse bounces back to the exhaust port.

There are 4 resonators, two long at the bottom, and two short above.
- These functions as resonators for different frequency range and making it so quiet.

The final pipe, between the two short resonator, brings the exhaust gas out into the atmosfera.
- From what I can observe, the exit is limited with a small hole.

I would think, first step to make mod to stock pipe without sacrifice the resonators, is to change the final exit hole (the one we can see from the end of the exhaust), making it bigger.

Charge is right, the stock pipe, not good for bikes with lots of fart, it cannot go out fast enough.

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Added on August 28, 2010, 6:44 pmThis is what we saw just now:
This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 28 2010, 06:44 PM

Paiseh paiseh. Thanks.

IMHO, this is a stock pipe, it's got no value today, but it shall be priceless next time.
From the looks of it, it shall last for a very long time without need for service, except the exterior need spray painting maintenance against rust.

With the money spent to open it up, I'd rather get a new aftermarket one. Spray it matte black, to look less problem inviting as possible.

My idea to mod it will be similar like yours, but the honeycomb will extend through the last 2~3 inches before exiting the exhaust chamber.
The whole length of the resonator, wrap with fibre and another layer of steel sheet, tie it up nicely and the pipe should be quite silent.

A good finishing job will do the trick. I like it matte black.


This post has been edited by alexei: Aug 29 2010, 01:53 PM

<<Updated>>

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 14 2010, 11:55 PM

that's a neodymium magnet pair tied to petrol supply line into carburator to increase power & improve FC... overpriced item but worth a try.
Some folks put it around carb-engine hose to work...

wah... forum become chatroom liao.


@kelvin: what's ur RGV engine setup? I agak is RXZ carb, bore block + new piston, and racing pipe?

Youtube videos on exhaust silencing:
Adding a 'exhaust insert' and changing between different exit diameter end pipe. Something worth considering for LC-ians.


This one sounds like Spayz's exhaust:


This one on modular exhaust design, you can change parts as you like, not welded down:


And lastly, repacking the exhaust fiber:


This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 2 2010, 01:00 AM

@zelk: with your setting, I actually think bike will perform better with stock sprocket size. Now, your engine increase the RPM too fast because sprocket too light, wasted the powerband...
I think Bizzy last time use bigger sprocket also, now change back to stock, correct ah?

Actually, DiASil block got coating or not I dunno. But looking at marketing info I don't think this technology got coating.

But, this doesn't mean the block is safe to bore... becoz of the manufacturing process, the aluminium is casted so that the atom is arranged properly. Now, I dunno what this means, but I can surely say, the Aluminium atoms will align differently at the block-piston wall there... so, boring away this layer of aluminium is a bad idea.

The admin may have confused this with NCC coating that is used on TZM block. NCC = Nickel Ceramic Composite. TZM block cannot be bored.

The only option, is to do 'sleeving', which is to over-bore the block, and put in a new silinder as the wall material.

This post has been edited by alexei: Sep 2 2010, 11:19 PM

Yes, cannot bore lo. Upgrade kit I dunno, but skim head, change exhaust, and tune it nicely can go 230 on meter liao.. this one I dunno how.

I'm going with my friends. Who is organizing convoy you know?

which part, the speedometer? wanna me to look at it not? maybe just some wiring or cable putus leh?

I can help it, sure. Erm, sometime next week? How about Tuesday evening? Next weekend I not around.

haha, thanks thanks... i'll have my gps phone along, so will have memory card. LOL!

My fingers crossed for your bike to be ready by then. RGV ok?

Oh, any Penang motorshop that does this?

Front fork can lower to reduce center of gravity:
- Improves cornering stability.
- Limits the high speed corner coz bike cannot lean lower. Example, stock setting you can lean 37degree, after reduce, can lean 35degree...

Best is to use stiffer shorter springs but I never asked around dunno where got sell.
The normal workshop does this by lowering the fork, or cutting the stock spring.

Putting lower front also make weight distribution heavy to front tire. The bike will lunge forward harder when braking. Nothing wrong with this, just heavier on the arms when riding... especially if mod with racing footrest.

If wanna do this mod, also service change to thicker fork oil like 20W.