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 Lowyat.Net Watercooling Club V2, Pictures of setups & screenies!

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lichyetan
post Sep 9 2010, 11:26 PM

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QUOTE(monsh @ Sep 8 2010, 10:58 AM)
for me, its not those IOH and ICH temp that matters much cause my setup wont even hit 60C under load .
its the VRM area that concerns me .
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ya, no vrm sensor for R3E...

i still considering whether to go for FB, FB does cover vtt pwm and cpu pwm. x58 IOH temp not as important as 775's NB.

ASUS stock thermal paste also lousy... laugh.gif

VRMs are hot due to power hungry i7 icon_rolleyes.gif but they can stand till 100+c for the digital voltera used on R3E...
lichyetan
post Sep 15 2010, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(subrok007 @ Sep 15 2010, 01:53 PM)
anyone using this cooler master coolant b4?

good?

[attachmentid=1781935]
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not bad... used before... but still distilled water the best,

u can try source for gigabyte ones... it will not stain ur tubings... CM ones still ok..

feser 1 it will stain ur tubings when u drain ur loop...
lichyetan
post Sep 15 2010, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(subrok007 @ Sep 15 2010, 02:05 PM)
icic... stain is ok not a big deal.. but dont clocked inside fittings like feser 1... saw review about feser 1.... really terrible like sludge..  shakehead.gif

btw, bro u mean ok is performance? compare to feser 1, this cm product more cool than feser 1?
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not sure the temp.. . i use them in diff hardware setup. so cant compare. But distilled definitely 1-2c cooler than feser one.
lichyetan
post Sep 15 2010, 08:59 PM

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QUOTE(subrok007 @ Sep 15 2010, 08:30 PM)
i not prefer feser one..  flex.gif

oh ya bro u stay in penang island? where can i get that Cooler Master coolant?
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i use them last time when i was in cyberjaya, selangor... now using distilled.. laugh.gif
lichyetan
post Sep 19 2010, 12:39 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Not sure if after changing the pump tops the inlet and outlet of the D5 pump changed... the inlet for D5 @ top ???
lichyetan
post Sep 19 2010, 02:07 PM

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QUOTE(owikh84 @ Sep 19 2010, 02:01 PM)
Should be correct as Bits Top has inlet and outlet on top.
[attachmentid=1788508]
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wow... really nice... perhaps should get this in future... really helps tubing routing of this is the case.

Currently using DCP4.0. Its good except its lack of mounting accessories ...
lichyetan
post Oct 2 2010, 06:17 PM

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My new setup... upgraded... laugh.gif
user posted image

This post has been edited by lichyetan: Oct 2 2010, 08:21 PM
lichyetan
post Oct 2 2010, 08:36 PM

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QUOTE(alan kc @ Oct 2 2010, 08:30 PM)
nice and clean...wat rad u use??
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mcr320qp from swiftech... laugh.gif
lichyetan
post Oct 2 2010, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(alan kc @ Oct 2 2010, 08:42 PM)
haf x upper can use 3x 120mm fan??
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yup.. it suits 360mm radiator. My fan config was on push pull for the 2 outside drive bays and pull only on drive bay area.
lichyetan
post Oct 9 2010, 06:30 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

The alternative of ur setup, which the pump in drive bay will face issues as pump is higher than reservoir.

Its recommended that pump placed below reservoir.
lichyetan
post Oct 12 2010, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE
agree with u. those garden clamps (need screwdriver) is way cheaper, i bought rm1 per piece, but in golder color, wanna find silver 1. but i prefer the pvc clamps, easier to put in n out, cheap, dont hurt your hand like compression fittings, and can be pair with barbs.


u can get silver ones in a hardware shop called Mr.DIY.

they sell below rm1 for the silver ones. and quality better than those gold color which sell at rm1 at normal hardware shop.

lichyetan
post Oct 16 2010, 08:47 PM

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QUOTE(rzs77 @ Oct 16 2010, 04:36 PM)
Will try this. Kinda desperate now. temps have been through the roof doh.gif
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my suggestion, connect a tube from the filling port of ur res, lay the case flat, overfill it, and run the pump. Let it bleed... the bubble might just escape this way...

lichyetan
post Oct 22 2010, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(BuckRoger @ Oct 21 2010, 09:04 PM)
anyone can lemme know what should i do to solve this  sweat.gif air buble frm res, goes back into water block

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maybe can use some sponge as anti cyclone ?
lichyetan
post Oct 22 2010, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(BuckRoger @ Oct 22 2010, 02:30 PM)
my pump is cheaper than u do tongue.gif... look at my sign  icon_rolleyes.gif


Added on October 22, 2010, 2:32 pm

never heard of this method before  sweat.gif. any link to show how?

thanks
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just place sponge at inlet of ur res... slow down the pump pressure and turbulence...


lichyetan
post Oct 22 2010, 08:58 PM

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QUOTE(BuckRoger @ Oct 22 2010, 05:10 PM)
aint slowing down pump presure means slowing down water flow? err.. wouldnt it affect the performance?  hmm.gif
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not slowing down at the inlet of ur pump brother... its on the inlet to reservoir, the flow that back from the loop. Wont decrease performance a lot... icon_rolleyes.gif just to reduce air turbulence, just like what those anti cyclone does...
lichyetan
post Oct 27 2010, 10:32 AM

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QUOTE(subrok007 @ Oct 27 2010, 10:22 AM)
@owikh84, btw i din install aircond in my room...

so how to solve? OC higher can solve condensation?

and OCCT test using middle data sheet pass 6 hours test consider stable?
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no worries, wc never goes below your ambient... no matter how good ur water cooling kits are, if using radiators, definitely wont go below ambient.
lichyetan
post Oct 27 2010, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(shajack @ Oct 27 2010, 12:05 PM)
aint there a calculation to know condensation point...who know.may be someone is rich enuf to buy an hailea ultra titan water chiller tongue.gif  drool.gif
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anything cooled below ambient will cause condensation... icon_rolleyes.gif
lichyetan
post Oct 28 2010, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(J1@l_ l_l l\l @ Oct 28 2010, 04:26 PM)
Couldn't find M3.5 screw for radiator after searching thru few fasterners shops. It's either M3 or M4 sweat.gif
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you can try and get 6/32 thread instead of M3.5...

I bought M3.5 before, dunno why cant screw into my swiftech radiator while 6/32 screws in easily.
lichyetan
post Oct 28 2010, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(supernothing @ Oct 28 2010, 04:39 PM)
i use m3 with my swiftech, never had any problem.
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QUOTE(subrok007 @ Oct 28 2010, 04:41 PM)
M3.5 and 6/32 actually different in line.... the line use to be screw...
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6/32 best for swiftech... some holes is to big for m3... while swiftech web state 3.5 or 6/32...

I got older mcr220qp cant use m3, but now using slightly newer mcr320qp can use m3 pulak, but some not suitable for m3, really rclxub.gif
lichyetan
post Oct 29 2010, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(J1@l_ l_l l\l @ Oct 28 2010, 10:42 PM)
M4 definately is too big. Tried M3, should be allright if being used only to fasten the fan onto the radiator.

My case, the whole radiator is being hung at the back of the casing with 4 long M3 studs.

Doesn't seem OK with M3 size, the orientation looks to me like the radiator will fall off anytime sweat.gif

Haven't tried 6/32, the unit looks to me like US customary thread, I believe the M3 n M3.5 r metric.


Added on October 28, 2010, 10:47 pm

This could be due to the standard is not being globalized. They happy, they produce M3.5, when they r not happy, they produce M3.

I don't know what is the root cause of this small matter.
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PJS11 near Sunway Pyramid there got 1 screw shop got plenty of 6/32 screws... source for 1.25 inch or 1" 1/4 length, should fit 25mm fan nicely.

you can source for 42mm version as well, fit 38mm thich fan.

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