Twist: That's a good practise, really keeping track of your EO.
But, I noticed you use all 10W EO... that's a bit too light based on the experience of the folks here, and it has a known problem to have that kind of sound in the engine, where slight looseness will cause the engine to be noisy.

Now, I suggest you try something starting with 20W. Anything that's priced average one, no need expensive. Something RM12++. Let us know how that goes.

There may be nothing wrong with your bike... you're using EO too good for the bike.

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Added on July 7, 2010, 11:05 pmAnd btw, you don't need to change EO so often... 3000km is a good rule.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 7 2010, 11:05 PM

I guess anything goes... Castrol?

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Added on July 8, 2010, 9:54 pm
For scooters, the belt driven progressive gearing makes the bike accelerate at the max power at a given throttle.
Imagine you open throttle, and the best RPM can go is 3k... the bike will accelerate all the way at that RPM, just the gear will slowly change... comparing to fixed gear, the RPM goes up across different output until it hits the max, then masuk gear, RPM drop and then slowly increase...

10W-40? Too thin...

That RP is car EO, so may cause clutch slip. Other than that, the brand is highly recommended.
If use fully-syn, change it after 3000km lah, if semi-syn, ~2000km, and mineral ~1500km...

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Added on July 9, 2010, 5:06 pmNoisy compared to another LC? Sure hope nothing's wrong with it.

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Added on July 9, 2010, 6:11 pmAuto car don't use that type of gear, it's still fixed ratio type, but the torque convertor does almost the same effect to the RPM...
It goes to a certain RPM range, stays there as the torque convertor slowly tightens and let the car accelerate... until max out the torque convertor, the RPM will rise... and then the gear will shift up.

I see race kit on sale for these bikes... similar to the big bore kit etc... there's another 200cc model now, VTS200 I think, even faster...

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 9 2010, 06:11 PM

One kick during cold start, without the choke engaged, may not mean the best tuning...

When engine is cold, it's normal to difficult start with normal setting... that's why need choke engaged to start, and engine need warm up.

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Added on July 11, 2010, 1:49 pmEngine mod...

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 11 2010, 01:49 PM

hey, long time no see...
Since you use 10W EO also, share with us ur experience... some member here engine start got 'tak tak tak' sound after a while, suspect is cause using that EO...

Question: How does the stock LC tire, Vee Rubber, perform? I find them around town for RM50 a piece for 70/90 front tire...

thanks for the feedback... end up I use Farreli, for ~RM70 rear, size 80/90. The bunga is non directional, like TT100, aka bunga sotong... not trying to promo, but the reasons I use are: Buatan M'sia, & supposedly it's 'pancit boleh jalan'. Once the front TT9 habis, I'll get the arrow one.

Next question about tire, for those of you using arrow type... in my case, the TT9 become jagged, meaning the tire become like 'wave' shape, where the end of the front bunga is lower then the beginning of the next bunga. Know what I mean? So when I ride, sometimes the steering will shake left-right-left-right, following the 'waves' of the tire... am really thinking to throw it away liao.

What about the arrow tires you all use? Maxxis, Duro etc...

Oh, btw, Itsuki, Duro Taiwan use silver wrapping one, if not mistaken. And make sure you buy the tire is fresh, less than one year old. Check the rubber stamped on the side wall... I hope you already know this.

Tell you guys a story, the other day I was just looking for tire around town, went to this ah-pek shop. They complain Dunlop quality bad, showing an example of an 'exploded' TT100... the tire basically has the grip surface and the sidewall separated during operation. I looked at the date code, it spells "1004", meaning this tire is manufactured week 10 of year 2004. A frickin' 6 year old tire man...

[quote=UncleCheang,Jul 13 2010, 04:22 PM]
One more good news, the custom pipe can pass the road block.
Just now met one road block but x kena

Many roadblocks these days... I kena 2 each week, on average...

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Added on July 13, 2010, 9:25 pmOh, and if you buy any tire of year 2009, you can ask for old price... usually like 3-4 ringgit cheaper for a RM70 tire... not sure about imported ones.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 13 2010, 09:25 PM

So, apa macam?

TT next weekend or how?
@Charge, your bike ok?

From Zelk's posting, we need to buy tires with Sirim certified (MS1394) that can be previewed here. Latest release is MS1394:2008. Farrelli, for example is granted MS1393:1996, probably comply to the other clauses.
The other standard is ECE-R75, or E75R, which is an European standard for tires.

The datecode that I mention, is the manufacturing date of the tire, that looks like this:

This means it's manufactured in week 25 of year 2006.

Beware, if you see only 3-digit, the tyre is manufactured in the 90's. Example, if datecode of "256" means it's made in year 1996...
I've once met a shop trying to sell me a 10 year old tire cheap cheap... it's an IRC racing tyre, made in Japan, and I almost bought it... lucky I checked.

Example of my old TZM tire, 1996...

I like your girls...

@UncleCheang: yeah, big exhaust will make 'book-book-book' sound, and can easily send shockwave to the person behind you... we all tried that last TT.

Btw, got set carb after all that?

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Added on July 14, 2010, 12:41 amI found this on LYN: Modenas GT128 VS Suzuki Shogun 125 SP
This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 14 2010, 12:41 AM

the left one (socketted inside the carb body) is air screw, the right one is idle screw.

To answer the Mainjet question, since LC135 uses Mikuni VM22. Mainjets fitting the VM series are as follows:
[COLOR=blue]50 thru 200 (Increments of 5)
210 thru 500 (Increments of 10)
520, 540, 560, 580, 600, 620, 640, 650, 660, 680, 700, 710, 720[COLOR=blue]

*smallest would be 50.

If like pikup, start change PJ to bigger. I'd start with 22.5 & 25, do myself and feel difference. PJ affects throttle range from idle until half throttle... syiok. Check the spark plug to make sure not too 'rich'.

Each PJ/MJ selling around 3-5 bucks not including workmanship.

Here's the PJ sizes:
10 thru 40 - Increments of 2.5
40 thru 110 - Increments of 5

About the JTX EO, looks like it offers really good performance at cold temp, but no test done at high temp. Good enough for many of us.

I googled 'tribofilm' and found a few papers on it, and most important message here, WARM UP YOUR BIKE...

I've read about EO a while back, and recommends API-SG EO because of the ZDDF anti-wear agent, which is one of the things that creates the tribofilm protection surface on metal one... API-SL and above has that additive reduced.

Believe it or not, I used to help sell NASA oil for cars, using the exact torque machine, in the early 90's... that NASA oil can go full meter on the torque machine. With this live demo, NASA oil sold like hot cakes at the time.

As for that torque machine, some of you might remember C&G post up many pics on EO testing one? Itsuki just read the whole LYN LC135 series should remember well... that is the result of the machine. You put that silinder onto one end, press it against a rolling surface, and press the handle down to measure the Newton/meter.

Promo Royal Purple a bit, see pic below.

I like this mod... being the vain person that I am, I'd do it. Most probably, like Charge said, I'd go easy on the throttle, slow on the pickup, but go for top speed and FC...

Question: How similar is LC135 and 125Z gearbox?

keep the speed of the bike at fixed throttle... macam steady on highway...


Just realized Belang-R has small tank, unlike the older FXR150... boring lah...

Nah, too ex for me...
Are you there to watch the foreman service your bike? do they clean your carb for you?
I hope they didn't 'swap' your carb to something else...

Spark plug booster...

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 15 2010, 11:22 PM

no, the spark plug booster is an add-on item, no need to change one... pernah dengar 'stromberg'?

hmmm, tayar kecik is it? Normally if tire heavy, riding at that speed also steady one...

air filter and plug not considered major service. that one is normal for every 10,000 km.
air filter, if it's still ok, just need to airgun it to clean it up.

major service means engine head & piston service. For 26,000 km, did you do that already?
what does your spark plug firing tip look like during the last time you changed it?
do you have a friend to compare speed with? maybe have you tried gps speed?

what is "superlarge kueh pau"?

I think if the mamat dunno what is stromberg, or spark plug booster, you can leave the shop liao...
Most important lah, I think you should know what you wanna buy loh, not expect the mamat to know. Later he bluff you and buta untung your money, how?