mamedai@
if you are a spirited driver which require a rapid gear change or always driving uphill. the earlier the better. i used to change mine before 18k km.

you are right.
stock waja( out of factory) doesn't have the air filter but if you noticed there is a gap in between(slot for a slim type air filter) next to air-con cooling coil under the dashboard compartment.
open up the compartment and you will see the gap. creative ppl capitalize on that and produce an air-con air filter for waja
finding a right one is hard thou!

do not put further strain on your waja. just save up and change to higher capacity mivec engine

exactly! thats' what i did. no replacement for displacement
for sentimental reason, i still kept my waja and upgrade the engine to mix n match 1.8 gsr with mivec head. so far so good.

care to elaborate more about the sound?
was it an excessive humming' engine sound?
if it was, could be wheel bearing problem or a sign of worn out mounting?

no problem. just like gsr twintip, it's almost plug and play.
pro ; look nicer

how much it cost? were you using the pu material of the same as oem proton ones'?

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 6 2010, 02:15 PM

Kelvin5717@
waja cd changer is located at the car's boot. open up the boot and see where the light located at

Azuma-kun@
car accessories shop could diy to met your requirement. prepare to pay more though. usually more than 150 bucks for a nicely done one.
mine was coated with noise reduction material underneath but cost almost 300 bucks

Andy0625@
pesc charging more than 600 bucks while those workshop outside charging between a lil' over 300 to 500 bucks depending on the manufacturer's origin.

jolipoli81@
the subframe includes the frame area where we used to install the side skirt. filli up with auto foam and ride is noticeably quiet cuz it will filter the ground / lower side noise.

Andy0625@
it was probably caused by worn out rubber hose underneath that connect the tank(1 big and 1 small which can be seen when you peek underneath ).
a pair cost around 100 bucks.
fyi, faulty fuel pump seldom produced petrol smell after a journey. either you will need to a few attempt to start the car or it won't start at all.

it located at the at right side (where we pump fuel in). peek underneath the car from behind and you will see it. worn out hose will caused a petrol smell after a drive. if am not mistaken, waja fuel filter is integrated inside the fuel pump itself. labor cost is higher than than the fuel filter itself

good offer.
nice plate no. was it the 4g92 mivec engine with invecs-II titpronic gearbox? no worry with the gearbox, it's very robust.
i'm using one in my mix and match setup too.
4g92 mivec has wider power band to tap compare to 4g18p sohc.
fc wise, it's almost the same. depending on driving style but power wise, 4g92 mivec stock torque is already more than 160 nm while stock 4g18p has less than 150nm. while the mivec engine could easily produced and extra 30bhp over the 4g18p.
bring along someone familiar with cars for a test drive. i bet you can't go wrong with it.

sin910@
depending on which type of spark plug you were using. as a matter of precaution, the standard proton copper ones is better to change at 10k mileage (it only cost 25 bucks) while the platinum should be good for 20k mileage.
other wise, upon checking if there is build up / burnt mark at the tip, it's about time to change.

Andy0625@
waja won't stand a chance against a spirited estima driver in straight line, so does myvi turbo. but waja could beat 'em in winding road / lotsa' corner.
same thing goes to vios, city and perhaps, myvi turbo.
i once raced my stock waja against a friend's bot'ed myvi down from bukit tinggi. he never appear in my rear view mirror.

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 9 2010, 09:23 PM

sin910@
ngk platinum cost around 45 to 50 bucks. iridium cost around 130 bucks.
nope. you could just change the spark plug.
some claimed that stromberg or bosch cable will result in improved performance but it's very minimal cuz' of the engine limitation itself.
rather use the stock cable and use the $$ for better quality drop-in filter.

danlim@
4-2-1 gives better response and 4-1 gives a higher top speed. it wasn't the tyre problem. somemore, with proper pnp, engine should be more responsive.
perhaps, down to the material quality of the 4-2-1 setup. low quality material will caused more carbon deposit after a few months of usage.
thus, caused the loss of power.
what is your 17" tyre width?
last time my car idle for a month and become less responsive, i reset the ecu, drive the car in aggressive way and bingo! it back to aggressive
again
btw, that's mean you need to reflash with steven already

WhitE LighteR@
we all do have a choice but waja is easily the best handling and most spacious car for that price ( due to government's protection ).
i bought a waja because it's cheap and the stock one can easily handle the sharpest corner at karak highway at 140km/h
already upgrade thou but for some sentimental reason, still keep and even mod my waja.

waja chancellor(extended wheelbase) is running on perdana engine. last time cost more than 100k.
btw, when i've just got my waja, a friend of mine suggest to change to 4g63t, which i was kinda procrastinate. now i really regret it cuz' on current revamp jpj law; highest we can mod non perdana car is up to 1.8 only. even a waja 1.8 does not allowed 2.0 upgrade anymore. yet alone turbo
most of my friend is running on gto / fto and 4g63t engine on their waja( jpj /puspakom endorsed prior to 2005 mod).

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 12 2010, 03:45 PM

a lil bit late but 126hp on wheels is a good figure for a pnp and flashed' waja 1.6.
with that figure, torque could be easily reach 180nm!
good job!

not so sure.
but as long as it was pcd 114.3, should be okay.
offset could be anything at +35, +38 or +40 with 6.5 or 7jj. depending on the tyre size / profile you're looking at.
either way, you may need to stay from profile 55 if your car is lowered.
safe bet will be an offset +38 with 6.5jj with 205/50... tyre. different below 3% should be okay.
do ask around for better understanding.

it should be around 600 to 800 rpm.
what engine oil you're using? have you try cleaning the throttle body?
perhaps, clean up the throttle body and retune.
ThunderGod_Cid could do the job for you

This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 13 2010, 08:51 PM

was fully 'rojak' project car with 4g93 gsr with 4g92 mivec head. original gsr ecu with unichip piggyback. still looking for best chip...tried a few others with non feasible result.
td05 gives too much turbo lag. should i go for sw256? btw, running tiptronic. not for racing. car totally look stock from outside.
just wanna get a real whoooosh' feeling as in my previous wira gsrt
will let you take look once my workshop finalized the car.

jpj will usually target those car with different hood color / loud exhaust and dark tint; it's an easy meat for 'em.
they always assumed modded hood comes with engine modificafication
they will stop you and ask you to open the the front bonnet. if they spotted any modification, they will either ask for a drink or issue a summon
that's why no matter how heavy is the modification inside, i will always keep the exterior in stock condition. no fancy hood no loud exhaust

btw, do yo guys wash engine at road side car wash?

used to wash at car's international but membership expired recently
no plan to renew due to their bad service.
looking for an alternative. any recommendation?
btw, friend of mine wash his car's engine at the road side car wash and the car could not be started after that.
turn out some cables fried

dashboard vibration ( and cabin noise intrusion) could be due to the wear out mounting. high rpm reading during engine idle could be timing problem.
there are quite a number of good workshop behind jusco maluri.

it's about time to change your engine mounting. go for original proton ones. i've tried mmc but noise filtering is not as good as those
original proton. check around for reasonable price. just let me know if you need any help.

your cheaper / better alternative will be the iafm module but it will be quite noisy and low availability
if you want more power, complete tuned length exhaust job and high cam is the answer
btw, i am in the middle of another project which is 1.3 to 1.6 campro conversion. using campro 1.6 stroker with crankshaft, piston and conrods.
not sure if i wanted to throw a high cam yet

will double confirm the price tomorrow. should be around that range quoted by kelvin.
btw, just changed my rear power window bracket to metal type this evening. complete with new motor. diy.
no more worry about plastic bracket getting melt under the hot sun.
heavier door thou...

original proton waja engine mounting rm265 all round, and the rear power window steel bracket with motor cost rm150.
is this expensive?

i bought most of ori spare parts from proton dealer. and he send 'em direct to my house