but the rear door steel window bracket is a new product. definitely not from proton but heck it looks good, except quite heavy
★★★ LYN PROTON WAJA Club - V9 ★★★, The Journey Never Stop!! Vroooommmmm~~
★★★ LYN PROTON WAJA Club - V9 ★★★, The Journey Never Stop!! Vroooommmmm~~
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Jun 22 2010, 11:12 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
not really from proton. looks like 2nd party dealer to me.
but the rear door steel window bracket is a new product. definitely not from proton but heck it looks good, except quite heavy |
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Jun 22 2010, 11:55 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
QUOTE(RegistraCHAN @ Jun 22 2010, 11:34 AM) P/s By The way the door steel window is really cheap. i like. my 2 front door metal bracket still going strong after 6 years. diy it and added some insulation material with the help of dunlop glue . no more 'tak' tak' sound. door closing sounds like vios trd coz my driver window hav retired almost 3 year know what to buy , but lack of confident on DIY |
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Jun 23 2010, 10:01 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
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Jun 23 2010, 07:32 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
last time using oem proton which is apm, it last about 1 year. kyb which is slightly stiffer last about a year too. using apm performax abs and sport spring(30mm lower or so) which is stiffer than apm/kyb last more than 2 years with frequent karak / cameron trip.
btw, apm performax abs and sport spring cost as much as mines adjustable but at least it wasn't as stiff as adjustable. comfortable for daily ride and good for touge too. |
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Jun 26 2010, 12:40 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
some stock waja auto has the gear lock integrated, with small cover
you can try mudah website. |
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Jun 26 2010, 01:41 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
no more petrol smell from the exhaust but smellier fumes
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Jun 27 2010, 01:32 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
QUOTE(RegistraCHAN @ Jun 27 2010, 12:38 PM) LAST time the machennic just show me here n there and i got waranty card whatsoever, but when i open my hood' i saw a few belt with (mitsuboshi)..?// apantah. i guest later on, i will show u all the belt inside my engine see if a been 'fax' off p/s arghhhhh tensen am using mitsubishi timing, btw. |
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Jun 30 2010, 10:56 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
QUOTE(mao2 @ Jun 30 2010, 09:58 AM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « yeah, how much it cost you? |
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Jun 30 2010, 11:17 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
it's about 1200 bucks? quite cheap.
am looking around for gun metal or original white of the same type. This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 30 2010, 11:19 AM |
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Jun 30 2010, 11:39 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
nope. read your previous post. your old rim selling at 1k? 60% -= 600x2
btw, which shop you bought it from? i need a new rim to compliment the new tyre for my 17" ride too. prefer light and durable. either white or gun metal. p/s; mao2, you should reflash before getting those japanese babe This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 30 2010, 11:40 AM |
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Jun 30 2010, 12:28 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
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Jun 30 2010, 04:38 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
mxsteven@
i like the cf cover. was that a diy job? nice This post has been edited by yngwie: Jun 30 2010, 04:39 PM |
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Jun 30 2010, 09:23 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
guys, lets go for autofoam treatment
mxsteven@ i suggest you go for the slightly stiffer apm performax on the rear. try and proven. last longer than any other non-adjustable brand. cost should be less than 300 bucks with new top and bottom rubber. |
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Jul 2 2010, 05:25 PM
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#34
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3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
bro alif, still service your car at race?
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Jul 2 2010, 09:05 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
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Jul 2 2010, 09:24 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
how long it had been since you change your engine mounting? could be driver side engine mounting having a problem? wheeel bearing ok?
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Jul 2 2010, 09:28 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
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Jul 2 2010, 09:46 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
now my car also got sound. this afternoon bring out for a ride. suddenly there is a knocking sound coming from left side absorber.
more like plate and spring knocking each other when driving thorough uneven surface. there goes my poor new absorber the workshop prolly' never tightened the nut properly |
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Jul 3 2010, 10:47 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
QUOTE(mao2 @ Jul 2 2010, 09:55 PM) hoho.. i've experience the knocking sound also.. takeout abs.. and there u have the faulty abs problem.. it was a new apm performax. now am worry about the top nut loosened and spoiled the absorber top.car never drive through potholes thou. worst thing, it just went for alignment. QUOTE(Krools @ Jul 3 2010, 12:24 AM) Guys, how long it was since the last time the air-con belt was change? changing the belt may solved the problem.my tensioner bearing is squeking... for the aircond belting i think... i was quote rm3++ i was told its somehow automatically tension itself... can we just change the bearing? anybody? help... the belt's tension is fixed but the bearing are or something can be adjusted ; tight or loose. same case with mine last time, after changing new air-con belt somewhere in kampar, there is a squeaking sound which the lousy workshop could not 'kow tim' he asked me to changed everything. told him no way! back to kl, i ask my regular mechanic to adjust it and no more squeaking sound. |
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Jul 3 2010, 03:31 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
3,092 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: |{µð£ð £µmPµ® |
QUOTE(nayte @ Jul 3 2010, 03:08 PM) that, i really dont know. my uncle who's a 2nd hand car dealer did everything up for me before handing the car over to me last year. i'm guessing its some shi* quality la. absorber also last for less than a year. damn headache man. anyway what brand of mounting is recommended, and whats the price? nah, your uncle prolly checked which side of the mounting was worn out the most, changed it and remain the good condition one. this explained why the vibration / excessive humming sound comes from one direction(the worn out mounting side). i suggest you change all 4 for better ride.edit: i didn't know worn out mounting could change the engine note. my car sounds a lil bit like a perdana v6 now hahaha go for original proton mounting which cost less than 270 bucks. the mmc won't last long. btw, engine mounting filter the excessive engine / chassis noise + vibration. worn out engine mounting caused and excessive dashboard vibration and humming sound goes to cabin, especially when you're revving the car. nice engine grunt, isn't it? |
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