they are mainstream oil. its not that they are not good. its just that theres better oil, and oils like shell are good for what its worth.

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Added on February 12, 2012, 7:05 pmhow to test 1 by 1? both ceratec and lm xw40 are already in my car. and primer is before i oil change (and after oil change put new lm xw40 and ceratec) lol

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 12 2012, 07:05 PM

NOPE lol.

and ive drove the car a while before ceratec being poured in. so 3rd test is not needed.

reviews are already provided.

why i want to pour in an inferior oil? if the specs and price is already under lm, i really have no reason to go with it right? unless you're telling me to try something of a sidegrade/upgrade (such as giving my car torco/redline/chemlube/motul treatment)

neither.
because xw50 is just a matter of avoiding something that is there, it is not fixing the root cause of the issue. unless your engine default specifications requires you to use xw60 oil. if xw50, it is still fine to go xw40, just like what i am doing currently.

as far as i know, ceratec would not fill up gaps either, as the ceramic does not harden up completely to allow gaps to be sealed.

best is that you fix your car, be it top overhaul, or complete overhaul/engine rebuild. mainly gaskets/seals replacement.

when was the last time you've done that? and what is your current car mileage?

bro, i did my complete engine rebuild for 2k weih. and now almost zero engine oil consumption. despite going redline in revving all day erry day. sad to say but i think your mechanic has done a bad job, and costing you a ton at that

ill just recommend the usual torco/liqui moly LOL

best if you dont exceed 10k OCI, even most full syn dont go over 10k unless both car specification (some high end/luxury cars for example) and oil specification permits/encourages it.

since when you replace oil filter oil will leak out anyways, might as well just change the engine oil complete

does your car recommend/encourage 20k km OCI? if not, please don't do it. even if the oil property can withstand, carbon/sludge build up will still occur regardless. and our oil filter generally cant last that long of an OCI and will get clogged, resulting in less filtration which also means a dirtier engine and that will be very detrimental to your engine in the long run.

whats the viscosity index? it could be a bit thicker than most performance/good SS

hell, good FS will cost WAY OVER rm200. if you're paying around/less than rm200, you should be prepared for what you're getting.

there's a further viscosity index chart for higher temperatures. example:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediend...2010W-40_EN.pdf

from what you've quoted, i guess its time to steer clear from this oil then

im driving a 12+ year old car.
it helps if you high rev, otherwise you wont need it if you're already on LM SS and/or revo

i've posted my review on thundergod_cid's LM sales thread btw, can read up and decide for yourself

why savvy cant high rev? try flooring the pedal see?

we do not have winter. we do not crank the car every single moment.

bro, please study/wiki/google up oil viscosity ratings/viscosity index. im not touching this until you got a full understanding on how the rating/index works.

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Added on February 25, 2012, 8:38 pmyou're waaaayyy too deep into engine oil additives, is all i'll say

yes they are good.
yes they are needed.

however claiming mineral oil having the same amount (be it quantity in types, or quantity in per additives' volume, or even the quality of additives) of additives as semi syn or even synthetic, is just delusional. think about it:
there are cost too good additives (obviously at the same time, the more additives also mean more cost too), if a good mineral oil can cost somewhere between rm60-80 per 4 liters, semi syn 110-130 per 4, and then full synthetic 200 and beyond, dont you think that they'd have better amount, and quality additives being added? if it's JUST the base oil, i doubt the full synthetic can perform as good as reputable/branded semi-synthetic, or even to a certain extent mineral oils.

case in point, try using a cheap full syn oil vs a good semi syn oil
an example, you can try a 4 liter mainstream shell/petronas full syn, vs 4 liter torco or liqui moly. and hey, liqui moly has mos2 for the semi syn, THATS one of your additives there.

remember, additives does not limit to only cleaning agents, they also has lubrication additives (eg: mos2 from LM) which further helps in serving the MAIN PURPOSE of an engine oil: provide lubrication to your engine's moving parts.

tldr:
1) what you pay is what you get.
2) OCI at shorter intervals = better/cleaner engine however it costs more, REGARDLESS of mineral/semi or full syn (refer point 1), vice versa on longer OCI

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 25 2012, 08:38 PM

conspiracy stories eh? i wonder what is there to conspire about engine oils.

i'll be very frank, while i would sure as hell love to proof you wrong by providing you spec sheets on engine oil additives, it is unfortunate that most, if not all engine oil makers do not list out their full additive types used, and amount of additives being used per type (think of it as your nutrition facts for food)

so how about this:
i would assume that you have proper specification sheets to back your claim since you apparently know your stuff. mind showing me a comparison between mineral/semi synthetic/full synthetic additives breakdown to properly enlighten me?

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Added on February 26, 2012, 5:21 amthe thread pages probably have mentioned those reputable brands a lot if you've bothered to read them

my personal suggestion will still stay with torco/liqui moly since i've experienced them, cant comment about the other brands ^^;

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 26 2012, 05:21 AM

personally, i would steer clear of it. i mean, it is meant for diesel engine for a reason, right?

unless you're just using it as a flushing method, then yeah thats fine. however for normal usage, using engine oil meant for diesel engines, you're probably looking into long term engine damage (seals in particular).

aye so long you are clear at what you're doing that is fine, its up to a person's preference at the end of the day.
hopefully nothing bad happens

do update us on the outcome should you decide to go for it

quick googling:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1247170/all

http://www.mycarforum.com/index.php?showtopic=2660082

http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/107912..._MOTOR_OIL.html

my opinions/summary:
- refined/blended in saudi arabia that isnt from reputable company?
- *only/apparently* licensed by toyota?
- rm120 for full syn while most if not all good/performance semi syn already cost that much while full syn cost almost/more than twice as much?

personally, i would stay away from it

why not give liqui moly SS engine oil with MOS2 additive a try? while it isn't exactly a top performance engine oil, it definitely is one of the best when it comes to dealing with engine NVH.

btw, how was motul compared to shell helix?

i see. well if it helps make you decide, i am driving a 12+ years old proton iswara. if an engine oil could make a difference to an aged old local "potong" like mine, i am quite confident it will to yours as well

if you dont mind taking a leap of faith, why not give LM SS xw40 or even xw30 a try?