xw40 is thicker than 30, so prolly cost a lil more. considering if they're basically using the same compounds/additives etc.

other than that, no difference. 30 or 40 is up to your preference/car recommended usage

you get what you pay for.

and really, its all about personal preference here. some prefer to get expensive oil, more mileage then OCI, or get cheaper oil, and more frequent OCI.

well, some examples:

good semi syn, lets say liqui moly, rm118 ya.
even over 5k/6k, engine performance never drop, never consume engine oil, as if nothing happened.

cheaper semi syn say, rm70
3-4k engine already feel like shit. usually consume oil a bit, worse case 1/4 amount.

so yeah, for the most part, you really get what you pay for. and yes, if the oil isnt meant for prolonged use (especially the specs written, regardless of advertisement/marketing), please do not prolong use it as well

recommended if still keep it under 5-7k la. carbon is still carbon, and engine oil is still engine oil, not a miracle liquid

a) that one not sure, however proton... yea lol
b) i can somewhat see WHY the switching back heh
c) AFAIK yea, however carbon build up may still be an issue.

again, really personal preference here, what i merely was recommend. as i said, carbon build up may still be an issue, and lm oils arent cheap, if "rich", shorter OCI lo, else, go longer lo

maybe why when i use good oils like lm for example, despite over 5k, the engine performance is still not much (if any) difference, even after oil change.

on the contrary, mixing crappy SS hi-rev oil into it reduces the performance so damn much

leftovers, forgot last time i asked on this sub-forum? everyone including you said ok wat. it really is ok, cept shit performance lol

obviously due to the hi-rev lol. mine in a sense, minor top up la. since yea, i high rev also LOL!

well, ill prolly do it again at the last few hundred km to OCI or the last petrol pump to OCI, top a bit consider it to flush out carbon (i guess something like pouring in water in engine to wash out carbon? cept pouring water = instant engine death so pour oil LOL!)

since id rather not use lambda primer/other flush while me LM ceratec is still in good effect (says 50k km, ill evaluate around 40k km i guess)

thanks for the tip bro!

maybe can buy some really dang cheap super light viscosity oil (would mineral or full syn (not ss basically) instead of ss be ok? lol)

mono grade?

and yea, i guess it is ok to just use cheap mineral oil for flushing. any light viscosity mineral oil to recommend? xw20/xw30 preferably? (lighter than my current 10-40)

any specific brands? go tesco find some cheap ones and get those? lol

i bought so much from him and tarak pun

didnt try ceratec? lol

i've put a review on elton's thread. really good for people high revving since the engine noise is not harsh at all. if you smooth/slow driving/light footed, maybe no need la since not that much difference if you're ALREADY using liqui moly oils.

and i really suggest Liqui moly/torco (my car on LM, sentra on Torco) over Q8

either oil i could help you carry and pass on the next tt/arrangement
lm i can take from elton, torco i can take from my nearby mech shop, or if you think expensive then can buy from lyn seller here who sells cheaper

1) not much comment for Q8, lm/torco beats it on specs/brand, id rather stick to those. that said, Q8 and torco under same malaysian distributor. if you ask about those 2 instead, id say yes.

2) no comment

3) none. ss/fs better so long you can stretch the budget, by like rm20 LOL. and imho, your car stick to ss enough, my car is year 1999 somemore and i sayang it with semi syn liqui moly
and yes, lm ~rm11x while torco 11x-12x
for your car xw30 is ideal

if you want i can let you hear/feel/try with foot on my 1999 car

10-40 liqui moly ss + liqui moly ceratec

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Added on January 20, 2012, 12:42 amits just barely over 100. as with torco

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jan 20 2012, 12:42 AM

before ceratec, flush always on OCI.

after ceratec, dont dare to flush and waste it. elton (and other friends that are into cars) and i share the general idea that, better if dont flush at all, but reapply ceratec every 30k km or 40k km instead of the advertised 50k km. (on reapply OCI, use a flush i guess)

you save your money from less flush usage, and consider consolidating it into one ceratec
so in a way, if you're one who takes good care of car engine, and flush all the time, you're actually saving money

in between 5-7k. on avg 5.x-6

i drag if budget is tight/no time, and lm ss oils even up till close to 7k (never exceed 7k lol) also performing well, not much noticeable engine performance degrade.

if you plan to go ceratec, i would advice against flushing. just stick to your regular 10k lo

good insights from the video bro.

well, my car aint exactly a precision engine, more like RAW mechanical horsepower, and that gets dirty easily
hell, notice between old and new cars, old cars' engine bays tend to get dirtier/blacker compared to cars today

probably to emission controls and lacking precision in combustion and what not.
however yeah, ever since ceratec, i also skip out on flushing as i dont wanna flush my ceramic coat

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Added on January 20, 2012, 11:59 pmdepends on what flush bro, so far millers oil/lambda primer positive feedback with them, however for one time i left my lambda primer overnight to you know, "clean more" before the OCI. next morning the engine is like half dead lol, lucky the workshop isnt too far, drive over and perform the OCI as scheduled

anyways good luck with your LM evaluation
and drive safe

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jan 20 2012, 11:59 PM