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Engine Oil Reviews, What engine oil have u used so far
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Quazacolt
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Mar 23 2012, 02:47 AM
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QUOTE(carcrazy @ Mar 22 2012, 09:07 PM) Error. Sr1 5-40w (2l) + sr1 racing oil 10-40w (2l) Love the combo..beat the hell out of my previous motul 8100 excess for sure planning to use that for my future car, atm ill stick with LM SS
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Quazacolt
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Mar 28 2012, 12:31 AM
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QUOTE(chemistry @ Mar 28 2012, 12:16 AM) Does EO stand for Eneos Oil ? he said hi-rev, eo should be engine oil. and yeah, i was a user of hi-rev too, 3-4k km and its as good as dead, engine feels like a total dead weight, be it my nissan sentra or my proton iswara. never again  same goes for shell, duckhams i wonder what other engine oil i've used, pretty much all crap compared to lm/torco. well, they are cheap, i'll give you that. again, at the end of the day, you get what you pay for
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Quazacolt
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Mar 28 2012, 04:47 PM
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anyone ELSE has review on petro canada? especially on 10k km mileage car?
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Quazacolt
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Apr 1 2012, 05:02 PM
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QUOTE(kidmad @ Apr 1 2012, 02:15 PM) got this in tesco just now. Their promo. Full Sync for RM80 and Semi Sync for RM35. gonna use then in my Savvy and 1.5 wira carb next OC. Wonder how would it perform. Synthetic where/how did sync come out? synchronized oil?
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Quazacolt
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Apr 2 2012, 12:29 PM
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QUOTE(guanteik @ Apr 2 2012, 10:46 AM) Hello, I am not sure if this question asked before but anyone knows the answer please let me know. I am planning to use Toyota Full Synthetic Engine Oil on my Honda. Before this I am using Honda Full Synthetic engine oil and feels like the car becomes sluggish after 5K KM or so. That's why it triggers me to try out Toyota engine oil. Anyone experience or tried this out before? mainstream, probably not much difference to try. heck, if i wanna mainstream it up, might as well try lexus oil right? (brand lexus > toyota? even if they're still basically the same company rofl)
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Quazacolt
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Apr 3 2012, 03:05 PM
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QUOTE(kidmad @ Apr 3 2012, 01:17 PM) Sure sure! let me monitor the oil from time to time. Haha Haha i know where you are coming from but i can't help it when it see the blardy full syn oil selling at RM80. I even drain my current semi oil at 3.5k just to test out this tesco fully syn. lolwhy.jpg cant you just wait till next OCI? (can just buy the oil first and put aside) sheesh
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Quazacolt
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Apr 9 2012, 11:48 AM
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QUOTE(Andy0625 @ Apr 9 2012, 01:41 AM) anyone tried torco tr-5 before? im currently on TR-5, do search my post in this thread
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Quazacolt
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Apr 9 2012, 01:04 PM
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QUOTE(TripleJ104 @ Apr 9 2012, 12:44 PM) Last time i use its feel just ok to me. Bro quazacolt, when reach the time u drain the TR5 can u check for me whether your oil color is black/brown or black/red? When i drain mine is black/red color. So far i never see black/red color..usually black/brown. It just for comparison. Btw LM 10w30 hard to find in jb. Mostly it out of stock.  the oil's original color is golden ish (like your typical engine oil, unlike LM being grey/black ish), how come turn to red le? nvm i will keep you posted, still got 3-4k+ KM till next OCI  (will be back to LM  )
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Quazacolt
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Apr 14 2012, 07:34 PM
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QUOTE(KIntos @ Apr 14 2012, 07:26 PM) how about Elf molygraphite oil 15w 50? what is your engine specifications? (or rather, what they recommend to use?) xw50 are too thick for most modern/common engines.
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Quazacolt
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Apr 16 2012, 04:20 PM
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QUOTE(Megaboyz @ Apr 16 2012, 03:26 PM) Hello guys. I have one question. What is the difference between 10w30 and 10w40? Okay, let's take Liquimoly engine oil 10w30 and 10w40. For Proton Savvy which is a hatchback car with Renault D4F engine 1.2L. Usually should be 10w30 right? But I want to ask what if I put 10w40. What I know is 10w30 is thinner than 10w40 and is suitable for hatchback car which 10w40 is good for sedan car. But I'm sill confuse. Can help me please.  xw30 is lighter than xw40. xw xx <-- is the viscosity rating (google/wiki) and there is no rating specific for sedan or hatchback. follow your engine's specification, and if you prefer lighter engine response, you may opt. for lighter viscosity rating so long there is no abnormal/accelerated engine oil consumption/evaporation.
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Quazacolt
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Apr 24 2012, 10:12 PM
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QUOTE(chemistry @ Apr 24 2012, 10:10 PM) What is the oil sump capacity of common cars like Wira/Waja/Myvi/Vios/City? 4-5 liters or less. notice how you only need 3.x liters of engine oil commonly?
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Quazacolt
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Apr 24 2012, 10:22 PM
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QUOTE(chemistry @ Apr 24 2012, 10:16 PM) that's why I am puzzled. Why 3.xL already hit FULL mark at dipstick when oil sump is 4-5L ? Must it have some empty space to "breathe" ?  "or less" also the dip stick typically doesn't measure the entire sump capacity and/or the engine components/oil pump etc.
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Quazacolt
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Apr 25 2012, 10:04 AM
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QUOTE(megahertz @ Apr 24 2012, 10:53 PM) any recommendation for engine 4g13, 60k mileage done so far. last time i use shell hx7, quite good. now eneos 15w-40 since i know a dealer that provide delivery in front of my house. cant feel any different. btw im not always drive my car, only weekends use. monthly mileage is not even 500km  if you're willing to spend, can try out liqui moly or torco. considering your mileage, you could opt for between 3-4 months OCI not sure if the oil can last over 3 months though. as its mileage OR 3 months, and people who drive their cars daily rarely reach 3 months and change prior that due to mileage reached.
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Quazacolt
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Apr 25 2012, 03:50 PM
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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Apr 25 2012, 02:44 PM) That's where most people do not understand the workings of the engine and then wonder why they can't stretch the oil change intervals. It has nothing to do with the degrading of the engine oil but rather the contamination of the engine oil that shortens the oil change intervals. BMW tried their EURO standard 25k km oil change intervals here and ended with slugging issues and dead engines. The oil itself will last a very long time if there are no contaminants. For example, gear oil works harder than normal engine oil but last much longer as there are no contaminants being introduced to the system. With every combustion of the engine, blow-bys leak past the piston rings and into the engine. Every stroke of the piston, you are introducing petrol, moisture, acid and carbon into the tiny 4-5L capacity of engine oil. All these contaminants has nowhere to go and resides in the engine oil. The oil filter is only good to remove large particles of contaminants but not things like water and acid. I change my full syn every 5000km not because the oil is dead but the oil is dirty. Here are some numbers to crunch.. if you drive 5000km at 100km/h, at 3000rpm, it will take you 50 hours to complete. 50 x 60 x 3000 x 2 (each rpm is 2 strokes, up and down) = 18,000,000 strokes. How much junk do you think would have gone past the piston rings after 18 million strokes up and down? That is only 5000km at a constant speed. Added: Oh yeah.. I forgot.. that is only for 1 cylinder.. if you have 4 cylinders, multiple that by 4. thanks for the explanation. i also change my semi-syn regardless when people say it can last 6-7k++ mainly due to contaminants etc. not to mention our proton iswara oil filters these days *SEEMS* to be getting smaller and smaller, no doubt the filtration effects would be lesser  anyways, could you also provide an explanation on why some engine oils will degrade/sluggish/bad performance after x k km(eg: 3k km) while some (regardless of mineral, semi or full syn) can last 5k km easily, or even 10k km for the same exact engine? probably also why some "myths" spread from there on how full syn OCI is 10k km, while mineral 5k/semi syn 7k respectively?
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Quazacolt
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Apr 25 2012, 05:49 PM
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QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Apr 25 2012, 05:31 PM) Engine oils should not degrade an engine performance unless it is becoming sludge. That is usually caused by the introduction of contaminants and not the breaking down of the engine oil. In the case of same engine, different rate of engine oil deterioration would be cause by the amount of the additives in those engine oils. The additives in engine oil is providing the primary protection and not the base oil itself. Some engine oils have less additives and will start slugging much earlier than others due to the contaminants. Broken down engine oil turns watery and not sluggy. I have used the same semi-syn in a 1.3 and then later in a 1.8 turbo. In the 1.3 it was fine.. in the turbo.. after only 2000km, the oil consistency turned to almost water but it was not black or contaminated. However this only applies to a few engines using wrong type of engine oil. The majority drivers out there will not see this happening. thanks for the reply. so with this we can assume that semi syn/full syn oils have more/better additives? and not so much the base oil property being better? or rather instead of "limiting" to oil base property, more towards "expensive" engine oils (regardless of semi/full syn, some examples would be redline/motul/liqui moly/torco) having more/better additives?
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Quazacolt
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May 5 2012, 02:57 PM
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QUOTE(ThunderGod_Cid @ May 5 2012, 12:23 PM) I said countless times already, i blew my engine with magnatec. Big nono im almost certain it could be other factor/in relation or not and the blame shouldn't be solely on castrol magnatec's fault. regardless, after experiencing good engine oil like torco/liqui moly (omg torco price hike, my trusted workshop now charging rm35/liter from 32/liter, but the engine oil change service is "free" sad lol) i am never ever looking back to mainstream engine oils  =edit= not to mention since the oil is easily sustainable over 5k km, folks like my mom whos either too damn busy or forgetful, can still experience responsive engine and not sluggish crap performance/shitty FC just serviced the sentra with the usual torco, revved it hard on the way back taking a slightly long detour to the mrr2 for a nice ride of over 150k/km. torco is just AWESOME for high revving LOL! This post has been edited by Quazacolt: May 5 2012, 03:00 PM
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Quazacolt
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May 6 2012, 10:11 PM
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QUOTE(EpsilonStar @ May 6 2012, 09:58 PM) i am slightly confuse after reading the debate on mineral oil and FS OCI (i assume oil change interval?) So what's exactly the benefit of FS over mineral if both is actually better be changed at 5k? as it sounds like contaminant is more of a reason to change oil rather than the protection wearing off... the cost of FS is a lot higher.. a bit concern coz the car manual stated FS and oil change every 10k... if your car manual states to OCI (yes you are correct) every 10k km, then you can easily use FS oil and change at that interval, or consider cheaper semi syn and do it 6-7k ish for OCI. if you dont have the budget to go for good FS, consider just getting good Semi syn which easily beats cheap FS in terms of lubrication/additives. the main reasons on using better engine oils are engine protection, more so if you're someone who loves his car, or someone who drives/abuses their car really hard and it's better to spend more on better engine oil to protect the engine than to risk having engine repairs/overhauls etc
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Quazacolt
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May 9 2012, 10:01 AM
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ May 9 2012, 09:55 AM) I could never understand why people driving Proton or Toyota Vios or Honda City or Perodua etc using FS. Those are the normal car I am referring to. they want to protect their car? its just that most people don't realize good semi syn would out protect/provide better performance than cheap full syn. mineral oil doesn't give me lasting performance/smoothness beyond 2-3k km. so i am totally DONE with that shit.
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Quazacolt
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May 15 2012, 09:07 PM
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QUOTE(OKLY @ May 15 2012, 10:08 AM) Anyone used Eneos Semi-Syn Eco-Touring 5w30 and the M7 Semi-Syn Super High Response Eco 5w30? Would like to gather some feedback between the two as I'm deciding which one to go for.  care to give torco (same distro in msia with eneos) and liqui moly a shot? lol
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Quazacolt
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May 16 2012, 12:46 AM
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QUOTE(OKLY @ May 15 2012, 09:25 PM) You mean Torco TR-5? If Liqui-Moly which model? liqui moly MOS2 leichtlauf 10W30 (semi synthetic) Added on May 16, 2012, 12:46 amQUOTE(Megaboyz @ May 15 2012, 11:56 PM) Torco TR-5 10w40 semi-syn compared to liquimoly mos2 10w40 semi-syn which one better? can search on my post for review lol Added on May 16, 2012, 12:47 amQUOTE(chemistry @ May 16 2012, 12:25 AM) Dataran Sunway got one workshop (the row that facing SenHeng) carries LiquiMoly. I haven't had the time to inquire.. ill just get from elton as usual This post has been edited by Quazacolt: May 16 2012, 12:47 AM
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