Hello there peeps.

Just wanna ask, where to find this jacket/sweater like in the picture below. It's kinda slim fit but I don't know wether it is a jacket or a sweater..?

funky

It's time to rock a 3-piece.



Suit up!

will this suitable for suits lining?



50% Rayon 50% Acetate

what do you think?

Changes:
1. More room in arms
2. Fix shoulder drop
3. Adjust sleeve pitch
4. More room in upper back
5. Lengthen left sleeve

Not certain if I want to add a little bit to the length.. we'll see!

Cloth is grrrrrrrrrr8 though.

Oh yeah, i forgot that we were going to add 1/4" on each end of the shoulders. Don't like the rope shoulders, but thanks for the suggestion anyways. The current bit of cotton wadding (no shoulder padding at all) in the sleevehead is probably going to break down over time for an even softer look. Noice.

Yeah, I mentioned previously that they used unsold old cloth for their 'muslin' fittings. Check the selvedge and you might be surprised - the current stuff is Harrisons of Edinburgh S100s but in a weird color.

Notch lapels, 1B, hacking+ticket pockets, side vents! Quarter lined too.

kotmj - Thanks. I know what you are saying - my shoulder muscles aren't so developed at the base of the neck, which results in the observed flat-ish line. I think Mr Hitchcock doesn't have this issue, so he can get away with minimal padding.

If I were to get any padding, I'd want to pad only the base of the neck to get a slight angular slope downwards. Also, i think the effect is more pronounced now because the collar isn't attached yet. The white canvas probably throws things off right now.

I don't know though, it is quite liberating to have nothing in there. So light, so free. I'll probably keep this jacket without pads and think about this change on my next commission.

beau - I have yet to collect the suit. Don't worry, pics will be up when I get hold of it.

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Added on September 13, 2010, 4:41 pmThis is what there is (or isn't) in the shoulders:

Post some pics!

BTW - just got a message on FB from Ambrosi.. they are coming to SG from 14-16 Oct WTF!

Spent the last few hours looking at myself in the mirror. Swapped out the horn buttons for gilt ones. Looks great with all that gold glinting, but I felt very self conscious when I was out shopping with it just now. People were looking at me, even though lots of people wear suits in this city. I might be reminding them of their militaristic past.

The DB looks best as a suit with horn buttons, my burgundy Stefano Ricci tie, and a white linen PS.

There is a ton of handwork in the jacket. The thing is very heavy; it says 1.5 kg on the parcel. The only problem is that the sleeves are very long and obscure the cuffs. But really it's no big deal. Every buttonhole was sewn by hand, even the holes that take the swappable buttons. They are done to a very high standard. The buttonholes on the front are done to a ridiculously high standard. All the glory of old Malayan/Singaporean tailoring is here.

The jacket DOES NOT look too big. It is just right, really. This is the way a jacket should fit. Again, it is not so much as a quarter inch too big anywhere. It is just right.

I am so very very very happy with this suit. I am glad I forked out the money for an FC like this, and equally glad I was man enough to go for a DB. Now I know what a DB is all about.

All ye who are weak of faith, let it be known that the DB silhouette is incredible.

I would like to take pics, but the camera my company loaned me has run out of battery. The charger is with the secretary of the MD.

I've no idea what Ambrosi is charging these days.. but too rich for my blood. If you decide to go for it, I'm very keen to see the results!

I don't see how Lanvin (or any big companies') MTM program can tempt anyone who has tasted the fruit of bespoke. From what I've been told, the guys measuring you for MTM have only been through a short crash course on tailoring. I would not trust them with a measuring tape, much less when it comes to fitting me...

I am very impressed with you guys. Anyways, I am considering to get a suit tailor made for a dinner that makes me look like Mr Bond minus the height - but im quite confused with the American, Italian and English suits differences. What would you guys recommend me I am at 1.72cm Tanned Medium Size Old Bollock =p

I went to a job shop today.  This is the first time I've been to one, and it is like being in what I would imagine to be a high class harem.

There were all sorts of stuff in there. There were many of the elusive wool/linen/silk mixes in summery tones. There was a small selection of kid mohair. There were wool/silk mixes that were shiny and prone to wrinkling. There were many types of flannell, one of them was very much like the trousers I was wearing. There were heavy suiting linens. There were cotton poplins, acetate and silk linings, canvassing, shirting linens, cotton muslins, etc. Everything! Most of the cloths have no selvedge because they were made for the RTW/MTM industry, but the Scabals (25 Euros/m) have selvedges. Every roll of cloth has a label on which is the price, the composition, and where applicable, the brand. There were lots of Strelson's (a local suiting brand one tier below Hugo Boss), surprisingly many YSLs, Gucci's, one lone length of a Reid & Taylor jacketing, one Loro Piana, about a dozen Scabals, and one Ralph Lauren tweed. Zegnas everywhere. Many others have no brand.

I bought:

1. 2.2m of a very dense, heavy, light grey woolen flannell. This is about twice the weight of my trousering flannell, and I plan to have this made up as a knee-length overcoat. But I will only start with this project if it is ever confirmed that I will need to go someplace very cold in the depths of winter. The label says "Gucci", there is no selvedge. Though very heavy, the cloth is not thick. It is quite thin. But so dense that I think it requires no canvassing.

2. A trousering length of a light navy/French blue wide herringbone melange "Loro Piana" (says the label, but no selvedge). It is a light cloth, about 8-9 oz. I kept wondering if I should buy a suiting length, but it is a French blue -- probably too light for a business suit. The handle and drape is wonderful (for the weight) -- this is obviously a high performance cloth. This is the weight of the cloth the guy who came out of the first class lounge in Dubai wore.

3. 3.5m of a mid-grey narrow (micro) herringbone in a melange (i.e. mottled). 10 oz. The label did not have a brand on it. This cloth has the best drape of all I handled today. There is enough here for a 3-piece.

4. 2m of the densest cotton muslin I found in the shop. It was all they had left. The quality is breathtaking. It's very smooth, very densely woven with fine yarns, which give the cloth a lot of body and spring (for a panama weave cotton muslin, that is). I think this is ideal for cuffs. Maybe even collars -- but I'll need to ask MBT.

The total damage was some 113 Euros. The real challenge is how to transport this back. The cloths are bulky. And heavy.

Hi all,
Am new to this forum but have been reading the threads on tailors and suits for the past few days.

I am looking for a wedding suit for my wedding in December and am thinking a grey suit with cream vest, cream cravat for the morning church ceremony. Similar to the grey suit in the pic but the vest would not be so high up.

For the dinner, am thinking of a black suit with either cream vest/cream cravat (as per morning session) , black vest/black cravat, silver vest/silver cravat, black vest/red cravat or just a cream bow tie.

Black suit to be similar with the photos (shiny effect).

Appreciate any comments.

Also, as I am not from KL but make frequent trips there, I am still thinking which tailor to use. From the forum, I understand ALT and Bespoked are the recommended ones. Another tailor recommended by a friend is Anthony Tay at Binwanis BSC.

I have actually met all 3 during my last trip to KL about a week ago. I feel Anthony from Binwanis is very approachable and proactive, etc. For ALT, he did not say very much when I met him. Furthermore, he may need a lot of technical instructions to get a good modern cut which I may be incompetent with. For Bespoked...good suits, nice shop..but somehow feel a little intimidated there.

Would appreciate any advise on which tailor i should go for.

Thanks.

Hi,
Very seldom to have a chance to wear suits. Maybe only 1-2 times a year.
Definitely no white suits for me.

For the mid/light grey suit you mentioned, is it something like in the photo? Or lighter.
I am not familiar with cloth. Fresco weave, do you have a photo of it? and any where to get it in KL? The church is fully air conditioned. Tea reception will be in air conditioned ball room as well.

Midnight blue such as the Brosnan photo? never considered midnight blue till i saw this photo.

Design wise I think more or less I have an idea.

Now is the tailor..which one would you recommend?

Have you tried or heard of Anthony from Binwanis? Any comments/feedback re this tailor?

1. Budget around RM2k per suit
2. Wedding is end December but I will have to travel to KL as I am from E.Msia
3. Preferably a non fused suit but will have to see the price.
4. Not really that particular on features. Would want working cuffs but most importantly will be the cut/design.

Granoff will cost a bomb i heard.

I did drop by Zegna. Their MTM is 9k and above..there is one suit..their latest one..fabric no 1...suit alone cost RM18k
I am not willing to spend that much on suits since i seldom wear them.

I think I will try ALT for the grey suit and see how it goes. Any idea if he will have the mid grey fresco cloth you mentioned?

Tks.

just picked up my suit from dry cleaning

it was straight as hell!  was so happy that it is iron able has no idea how they do it tho

but i can see some threads poking out inside .. is this normal?

and the made in italy label on the back 1 side stiching fell off

Hi guys,
A friend just made a suit in one of our local tailor.
Please feel free to comment.

The front is the ugliest I've seen in a very long while.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 6:11 amI went back to the first job shop today. Bought a trousering length of a thickish, very high quality greyish brown fancy herringbone worsted. It looks a bit like Zegna's No. 1. It is about 11 oz. About a Super 100s.

Bought white shirting linen.

Bought Cupro lining for the overcoat. Couldn't find the right colour of Cupro (limited availability) for the grey micro herringbone. One bolt of Cupro there was the best ever lining I have held in my hands. Thick, smooth, so very luxurious. But it was in wine (like red wine). Not quite the colour for anything in particular.

There are generally two types of Cupro: thick and thin. Both feels better than viscose, and viscose feels better than polyester.

Bought Guetermann silk thread (for buttonholes) in the right colour for both the overcoat and the micro herringbone.

Went to Muji. Everything rather expensive and not very high quality. I have higher expectations at that pricing level. They are 20% better than Ikea but cost 400% more. Their umbrellas in particular are disappointing. At Knirps' pricing level but below Knirps' quality. Their alarm clocks are laughable compared to Junghans' but priced several multiples of Junghans'. Objectively speaking, without comparison to the incredible Junghans, the alarm clocks look like cheapo China stuff you would buy for maybe RM10. But they try to sell them for RM260. Stupid shop. Stupid franchise. Another one of those places that tries to blind you with its marketing.

This local tailor is carrying VBC.
Charging RM2500 for 2 pc and extra rm300 for full canvass.

Any advise how to improve the cut?
His workmanship seems not too bad.
Just his design sense not up to date

Good stuff-I look forward to viewing pictures of your forthcoming commissions .

Muji is really a rip off outside Japan.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 7:58 pm

VBC is an entry level Italian fabric which should serve you well as an occasional wearer.

However the local tailor is ripping you off big time.  It would be cheaper for you to buy the fabric & take it to another tailor

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Added on September 25, 2010, 8:01 pm

The suit makes your friend look like President Ahmadinejad of Iran. The suit seems to be beyond redemption.

Go to another tailor

My new pants would be using a reverse coil zipper.

any idea where to get shirt with collar like this..

Can the sifus here advise what to look out for during the first suit fitting? Will be going for mine in the next few days.

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Added on September 27, 2010, 1:07 am

So does this mean the shoulder width is too tight? It should be let out a little to allow the sleeves to fall from the shoulder in an unbroken line all the way to the sleeve. Do you think the sleeves should be tapered some more.
The tailor did mention that the shoulder width is too tight but did not follow his advise.
Regarding the shoulder padding, i am not sure if there are various types of materials. His normal shoulder padding consisted of 5 layers and for this suit, it was reduced to 3 layers at clients request. The tailor mentioned that the thinning of the padding would cause this bump and some pulling of the fabric at the collar. I cannot imagine having 5 layers of padding..i think it will be too thick. Again, could there be different types of material which would lead to different effects?

For the lapels, any specific advise on how to make it better?

Another friend went there to make another suit yesterday and fitting should be in a few days time... (no choice.this is probably the "best tailor" in this small town). Maybe with your advise we can re-invent this tailor like what you did with AL?

So..I will take this opportunity to learn as much as I can before I make mine in KL.