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 The suiting thread v2

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beau
post Jan 7 2011, 10:38 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jan 7 2011, 09:59 PM)
While all you overfed college kids go to the usual suspects, all safe shopping mall forum approved stuff, I actively seek out the underappreciated, the downtrodden, the Chippendale at the junk sale (so to speak). Today, I may have found something of value.

The tailor was surfing the net. I walked in. There was a jacket with skinny lapels hanging conveniently close, which I proceeded to inspect. Made no worse than a Lord's, but the buttonholes were very nicely handsewn. They were so nicely sewn that I wasn't sure if it was machine sewn. So I asked.

kotmj: Machine sewn?

tailor: No, by hand. But if you want machine we can do machine.

I took a closer look at the lapel hole. Exquisite, and yes I finally saw the small irregularities that makes handwork so charming. f***, miles better than AL's standard buttonholes (though his special edition ones for me are nice).

The fact that the buttonholes are by hand tells me this guy has an old school tailor making for him and that he doesn't send orders to a factory full of Banglas.

Now, of course, the lapels were not padded. Nobody pads them except AL. Not even Lord's pads them. As I've said, standard of make is very competitive. The sleeves were set beautifully. Styling could be improved, but that is always the case and I will work with him on that aspect anyway.

kotmj: How much like this for a 2 piece? I supply the cloth.

tailor: 600.

kotmj: do you also do full canvassing?

tailor: sure. here's one.

Pray tell where this latest talent can be located

He pointed to an unstructured field jacket with pockets everywhere. Inside, it was self-lined the way you see Italian tailors do with linen jackets. No fusing, partial self lining to hide the internal pockets, no structure. A shirt jacket. Nice.

kotmj: No, no, I mean structured jakcets with no fusing but with a horsehair canvas inside, handpadded.

tailor: Oh those. Hah, finally someone asks for them. But they are very expensive. My sifu can make them. In the whole of KL there are maybe 5 tailors who can make them and my sifu is one of them.

kotmj: how much?

tailor: Expensive. RMXK.

kotmj: that's how much AL charges me.

tailor: you mean AL from campbell street? the equestrian guy?

kotmj: yeah. he recently made me a fully canvassed number.

the conversation was a long and pleasant one. He quoted me a very reasonable price for FC. His standard of make is high. The guy appears to me reasonably intelligent. His shop is impossible to find. His buttonholes are sublime.

I may have uncovered an unknown tailor of great potential.

I'm itching to try him out.

(But I forgot to check how high the armholes are.)
*

Added on January 8, 2011, 1:19 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Jan 7 2011, 09:59 PM)
While all you overfed college kids go to the usual suspects, all safe shopping mall forum approved stuff, I actively seek out the underappreciated, the downtrodden, the Chippendale at the junk sale (so to speak). Today, I may have found something of value.

The tailor was surfing the net. I walked in. There was a jacket with skinny lapels hanging conveniently close, which I proceeded to inspect. Made no worse than a Lord's, but the buttonholes were very nicely handsewn. They were so nicely sewn that I wasn't sure if it was machine sewn. So I asked.

kotmj: Machine sewn?

tailor: No, by hand. But if you want machine we can do machine.

I took a closer look at the lapel hole. Exquisite, and yes I finally saw the small irregularities that makes handwork so charming. f***, miles better than AL's standard buttonholes (though his special edition ones for me are nice).

The fact that the buttonholes are by hand tells me this guy has an old school tailor making for him and that he doesn't send orders to a factory full of Banglas.

Now, of course, the lapels were not padded. Nobody pads them except AL. Not even Lord's pads them. As I've said, standard of make is very competitive. The sleeves were set beautifully. Styling could be improved, but that is always the case and I will work with him on that aspect anyway.

kotmj: How much like this for a 2 piece? I supply the cloth.

tailor: 600.

kotmj: do you also do full canvassing?

tailor: sure. here's one.



Sounds promising-care to share the identity & whereabouts of the tailor?
He pointed to an unstructured field jacket with pockets everywhere. Inside, it was self-lined the way you see Italian tailors do with linen jackets. No fusing, partial self lining to hide the internal pockets, no structure. A shirt jacket. Nice.

kotmj: No, no, I mean structured jakcets with no fusing but with a horsehair canvas inside, handpadded.

tailor: Oh those. Hah, finally someone asks for them. But they are very expensive. My sifu can make them. In the whole of KL there are maybe 5 tailors who can make them and my sifu is one of them.

kotmj: how much?

tailor: Expensive. RMXK.

kotmj: that's how much AL charges me.

tailor: you mean AL from campbell street? the equestrian guy?

kotmj: yeah. he recently made me a fully canvassed number.

the conversation was a long and pleasant one. He quoted me a very reasonable price for FC. His standard of make is high. The guy appears to me reasonably intelligent. His shop is impossible to find. His buttonholes are sublime.

I may have uncovered an unknown tailor of great potential.

I'm itching to try him out.

(But I forgot to check how high the armholes are.)
*
This post has been edited by beau: Jan 8 2011, 01:19 AM
beau
post Jan 8 2011, 09:27 AM

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Pray share the identity of the promising new tailor you found

beau
post Jan 8 2011, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(Grimm @ Jan 8 2011, 03:57 PM)
Yeah. Am in dilemma now. Order new fabric and hope they reach me in 7-8 days, or use Bespoked's fabric, which is marked up sky high. I think just for their most basic wool, its a whopping RM500 for just the cloth. Workmanship is another 1.5k or so.
*
Go to Binwani's or Gulati's - Depending on the fabric you choose it may work out cheaper than getting it from Bespooked!
beau
post Jan 8 2011, 10:21 PM

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QUOTE(Grimm @ Jan 8 2011, 07:35 PM)
I am so spooked out right now. Thanks for your suggestion. I might just do that. Desperate times call for desperate measures.
*
Some fabrics were on sale when I was there 2 weeks ago. The Scabal at 50% off is a good buy


Added on January 8, 2011, 10:25 pm
QUOTE(Holyboyz @ Jan 8 2011, 08:55 PM)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100-WOOL-WORSTED-SU...=item45f7f697e4

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100-WOOL-WORSTED-SU...=item45f3b7105f

#1 can someone explain the summer air wool? does it mean it it breaths better? and its in fresco weave.

thoughts?
*
It's a type of weave ie an open weave which renders cooler for warmer weather. I wouldn't buy the fabric unless the seller is agreeable to send you samples. Some Frescos can be very scratchy & rough !!

This post has been edited by beau: Jan 8 2011, 10:25 PM
beau
post Jan 9 2011, 10:09 AM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jan 9 2011, 02:18 AM)
i'm thinking of going window pane for my next suits. dark blue. does anyone have a window pane suit they can post pictures of?
*
Similar type fabric ( as shown in Kotmj's posting ) available in a Loro Piana & Scabal at Binwani's . It was on sale a few weeks back. The LP had a nice feel but the Scabal a nicer drape
beau
post Jan 11 2011, 07:31 AM

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QUOTE(geoffhayashi @ Jan 10 2011, 03:38 PM)
You mean at Binwani's?
They are asking for RM 1000 fused or RM 1500 non fused but 1 fitting only... Any additional services will cost extra!  I heard the tailor call to their outsource factory on the spot... guess its not in house hand stiching...


Added on January 10, 2011, 3:43 pm
1. Black because its for a wedding and I do not want a full blown dinner suit.  At least I can still wear the black suit at other formal gatherings...
2. If you mean Granoff at the Gardens then yes... Actually I like them cause they seem quite professional and Mansur their creative director is quite promt in answering inquiries and quite knowledgeable as well, IMHO.
*
Have you considered navy blue ? It's an ever green classic & is less funeral as compared to black


Added on January 11, 2011, 7:35 am
QUOTE(geoffhayashi @ Jan 10 2011, 11:49 PM)
From what I saw in their shop they seem to be quite fashion forward, favouring slim mordern sillhoutes...


Added on January 10, 2011, 11:52 pm
I will be dropping by to speak to Mansor this week so I will clarify... I knew it was too good to be true...!!

Anyway, any thoughts on the Super 180s Cerruti fabric... about RM 500 per metre!!
*
How often are you going to wear the suit? I'm never too impressed with these Super high numbers & focus more on the weight & weave. The fabric may have a nice feel but also delicate. I would look at a Super 120's for frequent use

This post has been edited by beau: Jan 11 2011, 07:35 AM
beau
post Jan 17 2011, 09:40 AM

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QUOTE(jhong @ Jan 17 2011, 01:34 AM)
planning to get a suit in UK, which brand should i go for ? I heard its best to get those slim fit one.
*
What's your budget?



Three piece suit any one?http://img802.imageshack.us/i/l1010005.jpg/


Added on January 17, 2011, 9:43 amhttp://img802.imageshack.us/i/l1010005.jpg/

Here it is

This post has been edited by beau: Jan 17 2011, 09:43 AM
beau
post Jan 17 2011, 07:57 PM

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QUOTE(jhong @ Jan 17 2011, 04:28 PM)
Max 100GBP.......its best if it is 60-80GBP?
*
Oxfam or H & M
beau
post Jan 18 2011, 08:00 AM

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QUOTE(jhong @ Jan 17 2011, 08:59 PM)
All right. Thank you very much !!!!!
*
You weren't expecting Saville Row at that budget were you?

beau
post Jan 19 2011, 08:54 PM

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QUOTE(sigheart @ Jan 18 2011, 09:43 PM)
Could anyone recommend me a good cleaners shop that I could send my suit for a wash? Preferably one that actually knows how to clean a suit with care. Would prefer a place around BU, PJ or the Klang Valley. Thanks in advanced.  notworthy.gif
*
Jeeves@BSC
beau
post Jan 23 2011, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jan 22 2011, 10:45 PM)
Hand stalked
[attachmentid=2009995]
Buttonwhore
[attachmentid=2009996]
The Ying Kuok collar melton, attached by hand
[attachmentid=2009997]


Added on January 22, 2011, 10:49 pmMBT made pretty decent buttonholes, I find it ridiculous for him not giving me working cuffs. Not enough balls I guess.


Added on January 22, 2011, 10:51 pmHis notch is SF-approved though.
*
Nice work- who's MBT ?
beau
post Jan 23 2011, 08:59 PM

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Most boring talker
beau
post Feb 26 2011, 10:38 AM

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QUOTE(LiLFreaK @ Feb 26 2011, 12:14 AM)
i didt place an order yet.. i still need to save money first LOL ..

i just bough the lv shoe for 4k so i am kinda broke right now
*
Are you going for the basic "Su Misura" MTM or the "Couture" ?

The "Couture" is the one to get as it has a significant amount of hand detailing
beau
post Apr 7 2011, 01:00 PM

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[IMG=http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/151/l1010008.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
beau
post Apr 19 2011, 09:14 PM

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Added on April 19, 2011, 2:41 pmGuys I'm interested in buying fabrics for my shirting as well and specifically fabrics from acorn. I'm just puzzle by the different width of fabrics offered which is in 36" and 60". May i know what are the differences? And if ah loke say i need 1.7 meters to make a shirt, does the length of 1.7 meters applying to both the width? Thanks.
*

[/quote]

36 inch- buy 3 meters
60 inch buy 2 meters

You may need the additional fabric to ensure a proper pattern match - a sign of a well made shirt
beau
post May 4 2011, 10:01 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 4 2011, 11:37 AM)
the capitalist gets a lot of everything.

alright, in the interest of the sartorial salvation of my landsmen, i shall put here a strong clue as to MBT's identity. No doubt there is someone who can identify him from the way he tacks buttons, or manipulates the sewing machine...

user posted image


Added on May 4, 2011, 11:45 amCan some overly smart alec (Inc. 100, etc) tell me what flaw is apparent in this jacket?

user posted image
*
Apart from the lapel ( which in my opinion is poorly cut ) . The lapel button hole ( If you can call it that ) is incorrectly aligned.
beau
post Aug 18 2011, 11:41 PM

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user posted image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Barchetta breast pocket

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