I went to Oxfam #1 today.


Nothing there for me. Two of the tweeds are from Burberry, made for an upscale local men's outfitter. Fused, not even an ounce of handwork in it. Burberry is shit. I doubt I'll ever find anything that would fit me. I'll just get AL to make me a tweed jacket if I ever need one.

I did find a Regent suit here. Fully canvassed. But too big for me.

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Added on September 12, 2010, 2:41 am

What I'm going to say is prob. blasphemy, but may I suggest you consider a tad of shoulder padding? A properly articulated shoulder has a clean line that gives angularity and symmetry to your shoulders.

I know, I know. I'm not suggesting you go for padding Singaporean-style. Just the right amount of shoulder padding can be inoffensive and give you more Atlas-like shoulders.

It would also allow you to extend your shoulder to cover your deltoids, allowing the sleeveheads to fall vertically down.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 12 2010, 02:42 AM

DHL faxed my company asking if they should deliver it. Apparently, it is normal to ask for confirmation from the recipient before delivering something that will be taxed (corporate stuff are taxed). But they were supposed to send it to my hotel. There was a mix up because my hotel is on the same street as my workplace, and I had both my company name as a c/o and then the hotel name as proper address.

It should arrive soon.

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Added on September 12, 2010, 4:20 pmThe moment I saw this shoulder I saw the light. A Steven Hitchcock.

It's soft, as you can see, but not unpadded.


But it has a clean angular line when uncompressed.


This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 12 2010, 04:26 PM

Opened the door to my room, and found a brown parcel on my bed.

I was right about how the jacket begets shape during the making up.

The buttonholes are made by someone else. They are better than GDT's.

The hand padding on the lapel underside is pretty high density and done reasonably neatly.

I would do this again.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 13 2010, 11:55 PM

Spent the last few hours looking at myself in the mirror. Swapped out the horn buttons for gilt ones. Looks great with all that gold glinting, but I felt very self conscious when I was out shopping with it just now. People were looking at me, even though lots of people wear suits in this city. I might be reminding them of their militaristic past.

The DB looks best as a suit with horn buttons, my burgundy Stefano Ricci tie, and a white linen PS.

There is a ton of handwork in the jacket. The thing is very heavy; it says 1.5 kg on the parcel. The only problem is that the sleeves are very long and obscure the cuffs. But really it's no big deal. Every buttonhole was sewn by hand, even the holes that take the swappable buttons. They are done to a very high standard. The buttonholes on the front are done to a ridiculously high standard. All the glory of old Malayan/Singaporean tailoring is here.

The jacket DOES NOT look too big. It is just right, really. This is the way a jacket should fit. Again, it is not so much as a quarter inch too big anywhere. It is just right.

I am so very very very happy with this suit. I am glad I forked out the money for an FC like this, and equally glad I was man enough to go for a DB. Now I know what a DB is all about.

All ye who are weak of faith, let it be known that the DB silhouette is incredible.

I would like to take pics, but the camera my company loaned me has run out of battery. The charger is with the secretary of the MD.

Based upon the information you gave about your physique, I would recommend you go for the silhoutte most representative of the Genovese, particularly that from the 11th arrondissement of the town.

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Added on September 14, 2010, 11:56 pmIt seems to be a mix. The front two buttonholes are every bit the equal of jefferyd's if I dare say so, while the cuffs buttonholes do have the signature of AL's usual make, but a grade or two better.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 14 2010, 11:56 PM

Would definitely go for a feature like this if I ever get a tweed jacket made. Would keep the neck warm.

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Added on September 16, 2010, 1:43 amAre all Singaporeans this impatient? There may be pics next week.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 16 2010, 01:43 AM

I did I supplier visit yesterday and the guy who showed us around said, "Please excuse me for the way I'm dressed. I would normally be in a shirt with a tie. But today was a bit cold so I'm dressed like this [V-neck pullover on bare skin]. But that doesn't mean I take you any less seriously." LOL.

FCDB is really warm. It is twice as warm as GDT's POW. The DB is truly an ideal cold weather garment: It exposes very little of your chest, unlike a SB. Just wear an ascot and you have everything covered. The quarters are completely closed. Not only are the quarters closed but the overlap on the front means that even when one of the flaps is blowing in the wind, the other flap keeps your all important crotch covered and warm. The overlap on the front gives you twice the insulation. The wider lapels provide additional insulation.

With the POW I would need to wear a pullover underneath. With the DB, just a shirt on bare skin. In weather like this (16 celcius, moderate winds).

With the POW, I rarely wear a PS. I think the pattern on the cloth provides sufficient visual interest. With the plain navy DB, I always have a white linen PS because without it, the jacket looks very forbidding.

I went to a job shop today. This is the first time I've been to one, and it is like being in what I would imagine to be a high class harem.

There were all sorts of stuff in there. There were many of the elusive wool/linen/silk mixes in summery tones. There was a small selection of kid mohair. There were wool/silk mixes that were shiny and prone to wrinkling. There were many types of flannell, one of them was very much like the trousers I was wearing. There were heavy suiting linens. There were cotton poplins, acetate and silk linings, canvassing, shirting linens, cotton muslins, etc. Everything! Most of the cloths have no selvedge because they were made for the RTW/MTM industry, but the Scabals (25 Euros/m) have selvedges. Every roll of cloth has a label on which is the price, the composition, and where applicable, the brand. There were lots of Strelson's (a local suiting brand one tier below Hugo Boss), surprisingly many YSLs, Gucci's, one lone length of a Reid & Taylor jacketing, one Loro Piana, about a dozen Scabals, and one Ralph Lauren tweed. Zegnas everywhere. Many others have no brand.

I bought:

1. 2.2m of a very dense, heavy, light grey woolen flannell. This is about twice the weight of my trousering flannell, and I plan to have this made up as a knee-length overcoat. But I will only start with this project if it is ever confirmed that I will need to go someplace very cold in the depths of winter. The label says "Gucci", there is no selvedge. Though very heavy, the cloth is not thick. It is quite thin. But so dense that I think it requires no canvassing.

2. A trousering length of a light navy/French blue wide herringbone melange "Loro Piana" (says the label, but no selvedge). It is a light cloth, about 8-9 oz. I kept wondering if I should buy a suiting length, but it is a French blue -- probably too light for a business suit. The handle and drape is wonderful (for the weight) -- this is obviously a high performance cloth. This is the weight of the cloth the guy who came out of the first class lounge in Dubai wore.

3. 3.5m of a mid-grey narrow (micro) herringbone in a melange (i.e. mottled). 10 oz. The label did not have a brand on it. This cloth has the best drape of all I handled today. There is enough here for a 3-piece.

4. 2m of the densest cotton muslin I found in the shop. It was all they had left. The quality is breathtaking. It's very smooth, very densely woven with fine yarns, which give the cloth a lot of body and spring (for a panama weave cotton muslin, that is). I think this is ideal for cuffs. Maybe even collars -- but I'll need to ask MBT.

The total damage was some 113 Euros. The real challenge is how to transport this back. The cloths are bulky. And heavy.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 19 2010, 02:40 AM

Your Highness, I'll be back early next month. The swappable buttons ought to cost Your Highness a surcharge, not a humble nobody like me. I have no camera with me, but will endeavor to change that situation in the coming week.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 19 2010, 02:21 AM

I did a search for the manufacturer of the cotton muslin. The selvedge says "Ploucquet Markenstoff". This is the company:

http://ploucquet.eu/de/customers/

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Added on September 19, 2010, 8:30 pmI'm thinking that I should just go with a DHL Jumbo Junior box. Flat rate 10 kg. That way, I can buy more cloths. And also the iron frying pan, the French vintage copper saucepan, and the selection of dildos for when Lokemui comes visiting.

The prices at the job shop is laughable, and the ability to pick the cloths in person is much superior to buying over the internet. By buying in person, I can seek out the very best amongst the vast selection, and I know exactly what I am buying.

BTW I used the overcoat flannell as a blanket last night. The temperature was 8 degrees Celcius. (I always sleep with the window open, even in the depths of winter.) It failed miserably as a blanket. I felt the cold air passing through it. Meh.

I spent some time getting to know the cloths I bought. The Loro Piana is a very high super number, at least a 120s if not a 150s. The grey micro herringbone is probably a 120s. I have never seen cloth springier and livelier than the grey micro herringbone. It simply stood out amongst all the other cloths I handled yesterday.

This coming Saturday, I am thinking of buying a trousering length of the grey micro herringbone, one or two shirting linens, and one of the wool/linen/silk mixes for making into casual trousers. Maybe also a trousering length of suiting linen, and off-white cotton drill for chinos (my poor Padini chino is showing its age). Also, I will buy some of the fusibles available in this country. They are made by Freudenberg and sold under the brand Vilene. It is one of the best fusibles available for home sewers and can really be fused with just a home iron. The website gives precise instructions. I may have to use them to make collar composites. I like my collars to be pliant, yet stand up proudly. No collapsing collars for me.

I'll also buy the widely available silk buttonhole threads for both the overcoat and the 3-piece. The Guetermann silk threads here are multipurpose. They look identical to the Kanagawa stuff. Every haberdasher here stocks them. MBT keeps telling me that these silk threads will fade with age. This is probably the reason why Amann sells a specialty synthetic buttonhole thread called Seralon. It is widely available. But it's going to be silk for me.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 19 2010, 08:30 PM

I managed to kidnap a camera this morning. I went into the nearest restroom with it. It was too risky taking pics of myself in the mirror in front of the sinks because someone might come in at any time. I smuggled it into the nearest toilet stall and took the following pics just for you little sweet things.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 10:55 pmNotice the dart under the lapel? I am convinced now that all DBs should have it. I do not have a jacket where the lapel crease edge stays as close to the chest regardless of circumstance.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 10:58 pmHe closes at 7 p.m.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 11:24 pmBTW my DB has been drenched by the rain 4 times in the past week. Despite having an umbrella, the lower half of the jacket gets completely drenched whenever it rains because my umbrella is small and the winds are strong.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 11:34 pmSeveral months back, I bid on but lost the auction for 3.32m of the following cloth. The highest bidder would not pay, so I am now given the option of buying this piece for 16 pounds + shipping.

I'm not sure if I should buy it. If any of you are interested, tell me and I will purchase it for you.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:SCO:GB:1123

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 20 2010, 11:34 PM

I'd end up buying half the cloths on ebay if I were to listen to you.

I went to another job shop today.

It was full of shitty cloth. The worse worsteds I've seen. They are so poor: thin, anemic, but without the fineness to even begin to compensate for it. The prices are lower than in the other job shop, but these cloths are just not something you bring to a bespoke tailor.

I did however managed to find the thickest muslin ever there. It has even more body than the Plouchet, and is quite voluminous -- almost as thick as denim. But unlike denim, which is a twill, this is a Panama. The label says "double face muslin". I will have this put into collars.

I also bought a clothes brush. It was really expensive --20 Euros. Horsehair set into a pear wood handle. It is beautiful to look at and works very well. There was a cheaper version, also in pear wood, but it was without a handle. Like a shoe brush (but for specifically for clothes). I really like the version with the handle so bought it instead. The bristles are shorn short and are quite stiff.

This manufacturer also has some truly excellent shoe brushes at very realistic prices, but alas I already have all the shoe brushes a person needs in a lifetime.

The front is the ugliest I've seen in a very long while.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 6:11 amI went back to the first job shop today. Bought a trousering length of a thickish, very high quality greyish brown fancy herringbone worsted. It looks a bit like Zegna's No. 1. It is about 11 oz. About a Super 100s.

Bought white shirting linen.

Bought Cupro lining for the overcoat. Couldn't find the right colour of Cupro (limited availability) for the grey micro herringbone. One bolt of Cupro there was the best ever lining I have held in my hands. Thick, smooth, so very luxurious. But it was in wine (like red wine). Not quite the colour for anything in particular.

There are generally two types of Cupro: thick and thin. Both feels better than viscose, and viscose feels better than polyester.

Bought Guetermann silk thread (for buttonholes) in the right colour for both the overcoat and the micro herringbone.

Went to Muji. Everything rather expensive and not very high quality. I have higher expectations at that pricing level. They are 20% better than Ikea but cost 400% more. Their umbrellas in particular are disappointing. At Knirps' pricing level but below Knirps' quality. Their alarm clocks are laughable compared to Junghans' but priced several multiples of Junghans'. Objectively speaking, without comparison to the incredible Junghans, the alarm clocks look like cheapo China stuff you would buy for maybe RM10. But they try to sell them for RM260. Stupid shop. Stupid franchise. Another one of those places that tries to blind you with its marketing.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 25 2010, 06:11 AM

RM2.5K for a 2pc like that is ridiculous. Buy your own cloth and tell him you will pay RM600 for that talentless idiot to make it up (he will say yes). Tell him to take it or leave it. You can get a stupid cut like that in any alley in KL. My fully canvassed DB with a ton of handwork with fishtail trousers that went through two fittings costs several hundred ringgit less than 2K in total. I don't know WTF is wrong with you people.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 5:43 pmYour friend, BTW, will not be able to move in his stupid suit.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 25 2010, 05:48 PM

The lapel treatment is ridiculous. Too bellied, and the gorge execution is so awful. Also, there is a technical problem with the lapel crease edge. It is rounded, almost like it is gaping open without even being provoked.

Your friend is in serious need of a haircut and a fat loss regime. The tailor tried to create a waist with imperfect success: it is the RTW sort of waisting -- mild, indistinct, tubular. Because of the fat in his mid-section, there is simply insufficient space in the waist for the suit to be comfortable. I wore my suit jacket all the time during a 16-hour journey. I watched countless movies in the thing, ate the magnificent food (I never suspected the food was this good in business class), and slept in it. It would have been uncomfortable if the jacket was too close to my waist.

There is zero back of armsyce drape.

The shoulders are like speed bumps. I mean, WTF, they look like the humps on camels. Any tailor who makes shoulders like these can be safely written off immediately with no recourse for pleas.

Some additional info on the side:
"Slim fit" stuff do not work. If you look at the suits that accomplished tailors themselves wear, they are really loose. But they are not shapeless. The shoulders are wide enough that the sleeves fall vertically down without touching your deltoids. There is a generous amount of drape in the chest and upper back area. These two factors make for a big upper body -- which makes it possible to nip it in the waist without making the jacket too close-fitting in the waist. Following the nip is a flaring of the skirt which creates the symmetrical hourglass silhouette. There is plenty of drape in the back of the armscye to facilitate movement of the arms. Armholes are high.

The opening of the quarters is as tasteless as AL's before his reformation.

Then comes the issue of workmanship. It is not clear what amount of handwork is in the jacket. But I have learnt to be pessimistic in this regard. The buttonholes are most probably machine sewn. Lapels are not padded. The lining may even be put in by machine. Buttons are plastic. Lining is polyester.

In essence, not much better than a Bangkok suit.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 26 2010, 04:15 AM

I would never fail to notice any exposed buttcrack. They are not visible here.

But the sleeves are waaay too long. How is one expected to use one's hands?

I spent the day out in the city with one of my bosses. He gets his shirts and suits from the tailor that made jind his suit. Also a big fan of ties -- he kept looking at them in the windows (shops are closed on Sunday). I think I will get him something from Drakes.

The guy is beset by a deep mistrust of other human beings. Refuses to talk about his native country, his parents, his family. It's like he tries to erase these elements from his memory. He sees people in an adversarial light.

I have this other boss who is really sweet, psychologically-stable, and comes from parents he likes. But I have always found there to be a distance between us. And I realised today that distance is due to one reason only: the watches he wears.

Big timer watches. VERY big timer watches. The most expensive out there in the market. And that made him superhuman in my eyes. I saw him as someone operating above my league.

And then I learnt today from this boss that the other guy's watches are fakes. That he is too young to afford such watches.

And all of a sudden, he looks so much more human to me.

Lesson? The stuff you wear can dramatically skew people's perception of you.

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Added on September 27, 2010, 3:44 amIt's one of the reasons why I try not to dress too well. It is very easy, since I know how and have the clothes, to dress to kill. But it would make me look inapproachable: too sophisticated, too monied, too out-of-the-ordinary.

It is good to look a little shabby always, to look not quite colour-coordinated, to look casual even when wearing "formal" clothes. It makes you look normal, human, approachable.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 27 2010, 03:44 AM

Penis guillotine.

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Added on September 28, 2010, 2:21 amToo much needs to be done to bring this tailor up to scratch. Life is too short for that.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 28 2010, 02:21 AM

My DB fits like that.

Man, I discovered a fantastic store. Imagine a shop that has no delusions about out being able to specify products. A shop that merely looks at what is being made by a variety of companies around the world. And which then sets about to buy the best.

The best here does not mean the most luxurious (Hermes) or branded (Dunhill, EZ). The best in the sense of unparalled quality and design values at realistic prices. Stuff that I, too, would buy.

And to do this for almost every category of product from kichenware to bicycles to stationary to clothes and footwear.

The thickest suit hangers around. Shoe horns made of real buffalo horns. Fully-canvassed tweed and linen jackets by Regent. Raincoats by Macintosh. Burgol shoe waxes. Albert Thurston braces. Mauviel copper pans. De Buyer iron pans. Japanese handmade saws. Handmade genuine French soaps.

I'm going there again tomorrow to buy someone a bar of soap.