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 The suiting thread v2

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kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Aug 23 2010, 12:15 PM)
Holy divine intervention! Pls listen to Despos. He is amongst the best of English speaking tailors and certainly knows what he's talking about.
*
My hero is John Hitchcock.
kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 09:07 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 23 2010, 07:03 PM)
So I went to the haberdasher for some Star buckles. Unfortunately they do not have any of that left. The old lady threw me a plastic packet full of buckles. The quality was terrible. They were rusty, dented and some are even distorted. I painstakingly picked out three that were still in decent condition from the packet. 80cents each.

There is also a packet of D-ring buckles which caught my attention. I realized they can be used as side buckles too. It works similar to a D-ring belt. The old lady told me people bought them to be used in bags. I wanted to buy two pairs of them, one for each side, but I chickened out. What do you think?
*
These are composed of two D-rings with a small offset? I've seen those before as side adjuster buckles on a pair of Japanese chinos.

I did the unspeakable today. I ordered to have my lapels padded with beige silk. The reason goes beyond my desire to flash the soft furry underside of my lapels to pretty female passerbys. It is meant to make the FC sifu take more care during the padding, because every prick will be blatantly visible.

I also put on the jacket today. It's unmistakably bespoke, and feels wonderful on me. Front hem will be 1/4" longer, buttons all 1/2" lower, shoulders as in the first fitting, the FRONT side body seam will each be taken in 1/4". AL also said something about the shoulder treatment that sounds to me like a pagoda? He tried explaining to me about how the last 20% of the shoulders (before the sleeves) will be upturned slightly. It sounded like an idea by the FC sifu, because he never offered me this option before.
kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 09:33 PM

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normal d-rings are unlikely to provide sufficient friction. the jap thing was quite engineered, not simple.
kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 09:57 PM

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He went to his tailor wearing his mother's tailored jacket.

(This is the truth.)


Added on August 23, 2010, 10:00 pm
QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 23 2010, 09:36 PM)
Stainless steel I suppose. But there are many colors available! I almost fell for it.


Added on August 23, 2010, 9:43 pmWhich kind of buckles do you all prefer? I never liked those used in women's clothing. They're so hard to adjust when worn.

Comparison with Star. doh.gif Star's quality is sound 
[attachmentid=1743479]
*
I've actually found a better buckle than Star.

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 23 2010, 10:01 PM
kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 10:22 PM

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They are unbranded. AL has them.


Added on August 23, 2010, 10:28 pmBut they are not as smooth and shiny like Star. They are grippier and somehow works better.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 23 2010, 10:28 PM
kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 10:48 PM

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YKK 2C. The eyes and hooks are STAR.


Added on August 23, 2010, 10:54 pmThe best eyes and hooks in the universe. Remarkably, you can still find this brand in KL, you just have to know where, though the quality may not be the same and the asking price horrendous (in relation to the tiny bits of metal)!

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 23 2010, 10:54 PM
kotmj
post Aug 24 2010, 02:01 PM

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'Tailor' is the brand used on my navy pants in primary school.
kotmj
post Aug 24 2010, 02:23 PM

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These are the modern-day Deponirts, a far cry from vintage ones...

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kotmj
post Aug 24 2010, 04:37 PM

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i don't know how much, i found the pic on the internet. it does look ciplak, but who would go ciplaking fasteners?
kotmj
post Aug 24 2010, 10:13 PM

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hey beau, what were you doing at alt on saturday anyway?
kotmj
post Aug 25 2010, 10:15 AM

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I've never asked for something like this so I have no idea. But basted jackets have inlays everywhere, even in the armholes, so maybe in the collar too.
kotmj
post Aug 25 2010, 10:24 AM

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Then there is no hope.
kotmj
post Aug 25 2010, 09:06 PM

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Paul Smith
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Huntsman
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kotmj
post Aug 25 2010, 11:10 PM

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What do you want a suit for?
kotmj
post Aug 28 2010, 12:45 AM

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user posted image

Women sometimes make the most disastrous choices...


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Would you all have preferred my DB to fit this way? That jacket is unwearable!
kotmj
post Aug 28 2010, 11:14 PM

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Lokemui, about your prominent shoulder blades, I'll need to see pics in order to make an accurate recommendation.
kotmj
post Aug 29 2010, 03:59 PM

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Just go with a navy lining. Less is more.



This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 31 2010, 01:22 PM
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post Aug 31 2010, 01:27 PM

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Someone from Canada PM'd me a while ago about the possibility of having a suit made in 3 days in ALT.

(BTW, there is now finally a 24 hours tailor in KL. I saw their advert on the Bukit Bintang monorail station in bright red.)

He chose a Zegna S120 (WTF) and it will be sent to him in Canada. He went for 3 fittings. He was quite happy with the interaction with the tailor.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 31 2010, 04:35 PM
kotmj
post Aug 31 2010, 10:18 PM

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I think he got it wrong, he had a measurement session followed by 2 fitting sessions. It's the least the tailor could do given the huge profits from selling Zegna cloth.

Half lined is no problem. Unlined is currently not a possibility but wait till beau barges in and works the tailor over.
kotmj
post Aug 31 2010, 10:41 PM

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you write letters of adoration to him?

add me first.


Added on August 31, 2010, 11:14 pmWhen I see this pic I know I have gotten the shoulder width of my DB right.

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This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 31 2010, 11:14 PM

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