QUOTE(MeToo @ Sep 2 2010, 02:28 PM)
Where a bunch of people have a Q&A session about lala fashion sense.
Ha. Ha.Ha.
The suiting thread v2
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 Sep 2 2010, 02:58 PM
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#281
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik  
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Ha. |
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Sep 2 2010, 02:59 PM
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#282
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Sep 2 2010, 03:46 PM
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#283
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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No, gshen, that is the ebay cloth I wrote about (STG35/m). If it was a chalkstripe I would have pounced after a 5 second deliberation.
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Sep 2 2010, 04:24 PM
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#284
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Go on ... make me feel like an ass for passing up the opportunity. It shall not happen again!
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Sep 2 2010, 07:25 PM
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#285
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Talking about old Malaysian tailoring, here are some pics I've posted before of jackets made for my uncle who's about 60+ years old now. They were made by his wife's brother who left his small hometown for Singapore to learn the trade before returning to his small town to settle down. They were made in the 1980s. I call him GDT for Great Deceased Tailor for he died a few years back.
He had a few apprentices, and one of them has his own shop in that very town still. He is the most famous tailor in that town. I tried contacting him the last time I was there but he was closed. The two suits now belong to me. One is a grey POW with sky blue overcheck and the other a brown Scabal 120s.    The waistcoat    Added on September 2, 2010, 7:58 pmThe Scabal suit   Backward slanting shoulder seam   This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 2 2010, 07:58 PM |
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Sep 2 2010, 08:12 PM
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#286
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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I've actually packed the POW in my suitcase to bring with me on my month long business trip. It's the most comfortable suit I own, it's soft and roomy. I am trying to recreate the feel of this in my DB.
Properly made suits can be handed down and worn with much pleasure. This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 2 2010, 08:12 PM |
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Sep 2 2010, 10:26 PM
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#287
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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How much does a dry clean cost at Jeeves? Do they do sponge and press as well?
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Sep 2 2010, 10:35 PM
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#288
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Have you heard of this method of refreshing a coat called "sponge and press"?
I have used a generic DC and I asked for no fragrance. They obliged. I also asked them to use a pressing cloth while pressing to avoid the wool taking on a sheen. They too obliged, but the result was an underpressed garment that AL had to touch up for me. |
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Sep 2 2010, 11:37 PM
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#289
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Holy guacamole, which amongst you have a jacket you can move like this in? (That's Mahon, BTW.)
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Sep 3 2010, 09:55 PM
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#290
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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So....
It turns out the FC sifu moved house this week and my DB will be finished Sunday afternoon earliest ... which is a major problem because I leave on Saturday night. So the jacket will be couriered to my hotel. I did take delivery of the trousers. I saw the stack of pictures beau gave AL. "Your friend," he said. AL held up a pic of a front placket buttonhole. Then another of a sleeve placket. Then another of a collar. Added on September 3, 2010, 10:23 pmAlso, I've never seen so many jackets in his shop before. There were like a dozen hanging around and on the mannequins. During the early phak-woo-ying days there would be two at most. Sometimes none. This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 3 2010, 10:23 PM |
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Sep 4 2010, 12:32 AM
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#291
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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LOL, you sure can be funny. Kenny Hills? I negotiated a rather lean price, and when later I said I wanted "pin point stitch" (his terminology for pick stitching), he said he was making a loss on the suit. "Sik pun geh!" I then voluntarily added RM50 to the amount I was willing to pay.
My navy fishtail comes with a waistband curtain. It is not anywhere as well executed as on Zuperpent or Zuperpent+ (but then few trousers come close to these). His trousermaker lacks experience making them. I don't know the term in Cantonese -- I had Zuperpent+ with me at that time. He used 3.5mm thick plastic buttons on one of my shirts. 16L on the front, 14L in the sleeve plackets. In fact, his brother came up from the galleys to show me the smaller buttons. "See, they are smaller." I said, "indeed they are" while nodding. BTW you should ask them to soak the finished collar interlining before sewing. The collar interlining is a composite of cotton muslin bonded to a fusible then inserted into the collar, and they should soak the composite. I am planning to have him make enough composite for 10 shirts then bringing them home with me and laundering them several times before giving them back to him. Also ask for the entire canvassing (in a jacket) to be soaked before making up. Ask him to perform the shrink test on your fabric before making up. This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 4 2010, 03:31 AM |
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Sep 4 2010, 02:44 PM
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#292
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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QUOTE(gshen @ Sep 4 2010, 11:29 AM) Quick poll ladies - which to get first? #1 because it's more exotic.1) Blue silk/linen/wool to be made as notch lapel ~8oz, 2B, 3 patch with side vents.  2) Sage/tan herringbone with burgundy/brown overcheck ~10oz to be made as notch lapel, 1B, hacking+ticket pockets, side vents.  Both will be quarter lined, soft and squishy. FWIW I have the following odd jackets: a navy linen blazersuit, a brown with blue overcheck jacket (3patch), tan cotton jacket, and not that it matters, but also a tweed jacket. TBH I am already 80% sure I have decided, but would like to hear some thoughts anyway! Added on September 4, 2010, 3:00 pm QUOTE(beau @ Sep 4 2010, 12:03 PM) Perhaps the downpayment on a Kenny Hills bungalow with the rest of us helping him finance the installments . Jesus, this DB story is getting impossible. I'll have to think of something within the next couple of hours.BTW you may wish to re consider sending the jacket . It may be subject to VAT & enrich Herr Taxmeister. There is a specialist trouser maker in Singapore which did a reasonable copy of an Ambrosi ( sans the handwork ) at very reasonable prices for a friend of mine. ( SIN$40 for labor, $80 to $100 SIN for house cloth , VBC I think ). I'm due to collect something from him mid month & will report back if the results are satisfactory. I'm toying with the idea of having him pick stitch the pockets & seams after he has machine sewed them for added strength. AL claims to pre-soak the fabric . From the looks of the two shirts I've made , it would appear that the shirt was laundered . The collars & cuffs were not fused & AL made provisions for collar bones should I need to use the shirt for work. The collars are fine & seems to be a close duplicate of the ones from Hilditch & Key with much softer lining.The issue is the availability of good lining locally. HST sells reasonably good ones at their usual premium prices . Having recently dissected an old Italian made shirt, I realize the reason behind the structure behind the collars is not only in the superb cut & tailoring but the soft hemp lining they use. I was informed that these items are available in Sham Shui Po ,Hong Kong along Tai Po/Cheung Sha Wan Road. It may be good to have a look there when time permits. Sure he pre-soaks the muslin, but the first non-fused shirt he made for me has no shrinkage while the others that followed did. He also used a stiffer fusing in the later shirts but I have given him immediate feedback that cardboard collars defeat the purpose of no fusing. "Soft and floppy" is the message you should get across each time till it is drummed in. There are 3 avenues how he can improve his shirts still: 1) Reset buttonholing machine for shirts He uses a middle setting that allows him to use it for both trouser buttonholes and shirt buttonholes. When I asked him to set it to the finest setting for my shirts, he sort of changed topic. 2) Use #220 thread Like everyone else he uses #100 or #120, but I will try to source some #220 for my own shirts. 3) Further increase stitch density Added on September 4, 2010, 4:06 pmSince I'm not a national of the Fatherland, can I not ask for a refund of the VAT? This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 4 2010, 04:06 PM |
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Sep 4 2010, 05:04 PM
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#293
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Apparently if the tailor declares it as a personal gift I pay nothing. But it's only valid if the country of origin is in SE Asia.
http://www.stilmagazin.com/forum/lounge/24...eutschland.html Added on September 4, 2010, 5:17 pm QUOTE(VinluV @ Sep 4 2010, 04:49 PM) Holy Awesomeness i did not know of this thread... Are you one of those who carry your jacket in a suit bag into the conference room and remove it from the bag a few minutes before you are to present something?Anyway i only have a prada suit, and have been wearing it for interviews, presentations, and even meetings, and damm it makes the managers go gob-smack-smirkel in the meetings. Totally awesome, and btw Oct 13 is International Suit Up day. This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 4 2010, 05:19 PM |
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Sep 4 2010, 06:47 PM
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#294
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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QUOTE(VinluV @ Sep 4 2010, 06:28 PM) Nope, i wear it from the house, into the car, to the conference/training room, and into the bar after the training, but it pays to look good in front of people for the right occasion. Oh, OK. Is it a black suit?Also always thought the prada looked the best when compared to other brands, so i got it. and its the only suit i have to date. |
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Sep 5 2010, 12:26 AM
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#295
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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QUOTE(gshen @ Sep 4 2010, 11:32 PM) Thanks for sharing folks - I finally decided to go for #2 first to add a bit more variety to my wardrobe, but #1 will be the next project for sure. I saw lots of those kimono fabrics on eBay, they are so incredible but you need to sift through dozens before finding the right one. Many pieces are also very narrow, barely wide enough for a PS.Some vintage kimono fabric is going to be used by lining the shoulders and piping the exposed seams (quarter-lined) as well as under the pocket flaps. Very eggciting. How do you like the hand of that literal "whole fleece"? I find whole wool (non-super number) perfectly fine and inoffensive. I don't get this whole super number bug. |
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Sep 8 2010, 12:49 AM
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#296
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Kotmj is very busy taking over the world. kneok, a DB can be as waisted as anything. I have come to appreaciate the generously cut jacket for cold weather wear. My navy DB is for cold weather wear.
Added on September 8, 2010, 1:02 amSo I was coming out of the Emirates Business Class Lounge in Dubai. Opposite was the First Class Lounge. A guy was coming out from the first class lounge accompanied by a female airport employee. He was attired in a bespoke mid blue suit. Pink bespoke shirt. Black oxford captoes (not shiny). The suit was incredible. Cut on the slim side, but with pronounced shoulder padding which work well in this case because the guy was thin and small. The fit was perfect, the fabric was fluid and obviously high performing, with no wrinkling despite being thin. Light horn buttons. The guy is meditarranean. I walked behind him for a while, eyes wide open to see every aspect of the suit. The highlight of a boring journey. This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 8 2010, 01:02 AM |
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Sep 10 2010, 12:47 AM
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#297
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Sorry gshen, I'll let my colleagues here critique the suit, I do not have the presence of mind to do such a thing right now and also a lack of battery because I forgot to bring a socket adapter along.
But I have a pic:  |
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Sep 11 2010, 02:29 AM
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#298
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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QUOTE(gshen @ Sep 9 2010, 11:18 PM)  Added on September 11, 2010, 2:46 amAt wurk   After wurk    I'm seriously considering having an overcoat made in case the fan cheongs at my company send me here in January/February (depths of winter)   Canali. Notice the lapels.  Added on September 11, 2010, 2:59 amYesterday. Not really a proper attire, just a random shot showing that I do not always dress to a T.  This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 11 2010, 03:16 AM |
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Sep 11 2010, 03:40 PM
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#299
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Your first suit had a vertical drop. I think it looks better this way.
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Sep 12 2010, 01:28 AM
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#300
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik
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Holy mother of god!
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