Bemberg is just the type of fiber. How this fiber is woven into cloth is even more important. Which is why I said "Bemberg Ambiance". Ambiance is the cloth, Bemberg the material. Ermazine is the cloth, viscose the material.

I don't think Ambiance is as breathable as ermazine. Ambiance is much lighter, it weights almost nothing. But isn't as sheer as ermazine. It is closely woven. It is very soft and luxurious, like silk charmeuse, unlike ermazine which is more synthetic in feel. But AL says the ermazine is a sturdy lining.

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Added on April 22, 2010, 7:04 pmHey silencer, Manton gets a lot of his cloths from Tip-Top in NYC. It's supposed to be quite cheap.

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Added on April 22, 2010, 8:05 pmYou might want to give AL your camera and get him to take pics of you. Front, side, back. He has lower standards about fit than me.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 22 2010, 08:05 PM

Ohh Yes....Im going for my first fitting on Sat @ Bespoke 1U
Cant hardly to see the masterpiece ...... excited yet worry the outcome~

This thread is growing fast man! u guys really make suit once a month?

What sort of cloth did you go for? Did you go for the extra features like working cuffs and pick stitching?

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Added on April 23, 2010, 12:03 amWalnek:

1. Try sitting down in your new trousers. Do you feel the fork cutting into your family jewels? (Tell him you plan on having children later.) And the thighs: Are they too constricted by the trousers? Are the trousers too tight around the waist? AL likes to cut very tight fitting trousers. I suggest you try side adjusters (no belt loops). Most people have never tried them. And let him make the pants very short, like just touching your shoe. This will be the last time you'll see your pants before they are done. Mine never has any back pockets.

2. Wear your favourite shirt and a good pair of dress shoes to the fitting. Essential.

3. Use your forefinger and press on 6 points along the shoulder seam. Every point should have your flesh directly below it, none should be unsupported.

4. Make sure the lapel crease on both sides are not jutting out. They should be very close to your chest. Use a finger and press on the opening of the lapel, where your shirt shows. Gap between lapel and shirt should be minimal, about 4mm at most.

5. Make sure the jacket collar grips your shirt collar. Zero gap.

The others are visible and should show up in the photos.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 23 2010, 12:51 AM

GrIM: which firm

This should be stickied too. Thanks mate for taking the time to do a checklist. I still hope that I can make it tomorrow, if not, it will be delayed for yet another week.

Oh no! My linen jacket will not be ready tomorrow! AL says Monday.

:sob:

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Added on April 23, 2010, 7:55 pmThis is just the stuff that do not show up in pics.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 23 2010, 07:55 PM

Business is booming at alt....
Kotmj...will check out tip top...I thought it is only wellknown for vast selection of shoes....

That's what he told me too. "Very busy these few days."

I wanted to give him my Bemberg lining on a Sunday evening. Just drop it into his postbox, I thought.

I went there, but could see no postbox, but AL was at the cutting board hand-sewing something. At 10 pm on a Sunday.

He came out and took the lining from me.

U mean at 10pm.....wow....the area looks a bit scary for me at nite time....omw to klia

I hope my dear esteemed friend Calvin approves of the notch style...

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Added on April 26, 2010, 11:28 pmMore pics tomorrow. One a day until end of week. This jacket is incredible. The best so far.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 26 2010, 11:28 PM

Yes. Most exerent.

this is killing me

Unbutton those!

Why do you keep asking me to unbutton my clothes?

Real crazy people... you guys make how many suits in a month?

Wait, that PS looks very familiar...

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Added on April 27, 2010, 4:37 pmI can only afford to make one every few years.

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Added on April 27, 2010, 4:59 pm

I'm okay with the rest apart from the sleeve length.

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Added on April 27, 2010, 5:02 pmI'm not sure about the unlined back. It seems that your shirt and all the seams are very visible even though you're wearing a light shirt.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 27 2010, 05:02 PM

Damn you, Calvin.

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Added on April 27, 2010, 6:02 pmWRT the sleeve length: AL says the sleeves will wrinkle like the bellows of an accordion, and will thus ride higher with wear.

I have seen RLPL linen jackets with similarly see through backs. It is unavoidable and part of the look.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 27 2010, 06:48 PM

I'm now convinced that a pair of unlined linen pants in beige(sans back pockets) can be very sexy.