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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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amduser
post Jul 9 2011, 01:26 AM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 8 2011, 06:01 PM)
Be more specific. What u wanna know about the difference? chemical composition? methods on working on resin model kits?

Very difficult to answer your question like that le. It's just like asking "what's the difference between plastic and metal?"

So far Bandai's kit are all plastic, in general term. More specific would be PS, PE, ABS.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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i'm not planning to assemble a resin kit la, just curious about it since i saw some people mentioning it

in term of feel and look, resin kit should be similar to plastic?

ABS is the hardest type of plastic compare to PS and PE? if i'm not wrong, action base 3 is using ABS? hmm.gif

QUOTE(shauno @ Jul 8 2011, 06:46 PM)
uhhhh.. raymond completely potong my stim to do resin kits now =X
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come share share your resin building experience nod.gif

This post has been edited by amduser: Jul 9 2011, 01:27 AM
amduser
post Jul 9 2011, 02:00 PM

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QUOTE(daydreaming @ Jul 9 2011, 12:41 PM)
just realized there are 3 different kinds of top coat.

flat/matte , semi-gloss, gloss

i think flat/matte shld b good ? gloss gonna make gundam look like shiny sports car
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depends on the model la, some model look good in gloss while some not, zaku always look good in flat, gonna buy a zaku to build too tongue.gif
amduser
post Jul 10 2011, 01:13 AM

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QUOTE(daydreaming @ Jul 9 2011, 02:46 PM)
ya meh? :| thought of going matte :|
cannot imagine SF in shiny mode
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glossy SF not bad la biggrin.gif
amduser
post Jul 10 2011, 09:04 AM

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QUOTE(tkting @ Jul 10 2011, 02:50 AM)
Recently Completed Resin Kit

takes about 2~3 weeks

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Color:

White
Light Blue (Shading) -> Gaia white 001 (Main)

Blue
Just simple take from premix color

Dark Grey
Gaia gray 075 (Shading) -> Gaia Gray 075 (Main)

Light Grey
Gaia gray 074 (Shading) -> Gaia Gray 073 (Main)

Red
Mr.Color Wine Red (Shading) -> Gaia Red 003 (Main)

Orange Yellow
Gaia Orange Yellow 025 (Shading) -> Gaia Yellow 005 (Main)

Dark Blue
Gaia Black 002 (Shading) -> Gaia Midnight Blue 062 (Main)
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need more close up pic biggrin.gif
amduser
post Jul 10 2011, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(Wira Hikari @ Jul 10 2011, 04:17 PM)
hey guys, any methods to preventĀ  inconsistencies during coating using spray can? I sort of realise that some parts that I sprayed turned out to be more frosty than others. It was quite obvious when those pieces were assembled together with one side being frostier than the other. thanks
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cook heat up the spray can before spraying and spray at the distance of 15-20cm

oh yeah.....dont forget to spray at place with no wind, else the wind will blow the coat away before it reach the surface

This post has been edited by amduser: Jul 10 2011, 04:58 PM
amduser
post Jul 10 2011, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(Wira Hikari @ Jul 10 2011, 05:03 PM)
Thanks for the tip amduser, btw  I found a useful tip from a blog that might help those who needs spraying tip

Tips and Tricks: spraying flat top coat on unpainted model

But still for clear paints like topcoats esp flat/matt, do you know how much that is needed to spray? unlike spray paints with colours, i found it difficult at times to know how much i have already sprayed onto the pieces and this tend to contribute some problems as i might think i did not spray enough thus the spraying frenzy happens  sweat.gif
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spray until the surface appear shinny, like covered in thin layer of oil

maybe you can try to use water sprayer to spray water to your kit as a practice before spraying top coat and see how is the result laugh.gif
amduser
post Jul 11 2011, 02:00 AM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Jul 11 2011, 12:46 AM)
i use handpaint and retarder is optional? coz i dont have retarder
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leveling thinner got retarder inside tongue.gif
amduser
post Jul 25 2011, 08:32 PM

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i can only use lighter fluid to thin the enamel paint? leveling thinner cannot?
amduser
post Jul 26 2011, 03:29 PM

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i've been using the normal masking tape to mask the clear part

as long as you dont stick it for too long or exposed to high temperature or sunlight then will have no problem.


Added on July 26, 2011, 3:33 pm
QUOTE(shauno @ Jul 26 2011, 03:09 PM)
yes you can use leveling thinner. in terms of strength, lacquer> enamel. so lacquer thinner will attack enamel, enamel thinner won't attack lacquer. but zippo fluid not expensive ma. about 7-10 bux..
why don't you just remove said clear part and paint, then put the clear part back? if you use tamiya masking tape, sure no problem. cheap one i cannot say the same.. use at your own risk.
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but my leveling thinner is acrylic thinner hmm.gif

This post has been edited by amduser: Jul 26 2011, 03:33 PM
amduser
post Jul 26 2011, 06:55 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Jul 26 2011, 03:50 PM)
you sure its acrylic thinner bro? what brand is it? i've never come across acrylic thinner with retarder before, but i could be mistaken la.

what brand is your thinner and what color is the cap?
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amduser
post Jul 27 2011, 08:03 AM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 12:56 AM)
The cheap type u gotta be careful. although generally the glue is not strong, but due to the low density of fibre of the tape, means it cannot isolate complete paint n thinner going thru it, thinner might get thru the surface n touches the glue at the back of the tape.

When this happened, the glue will have reaction with the thinner n makes it melted onto the surface of your plastic. Very hard to remove n clean.
Ok, this is kinda tricky question.

Actually, even Gaia n Mr color, which we generally call as "lacquer", it's actually a kind of acrylic based paint; a solvent base acrylic.

but anyhow, we do not have to change that, we just use back the word "lacquer" so everyone would understand.

So i guess either the maker of this thinner is refering to that, or he's trying to say this thinner dissolve acrylic paint too.

So in general, in malaysia, we call it laquer thinner
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so mine is lacquer thinner?

QUOTE(devilrider88 @ Jul 27 2011, 03:29 AM)
hi sifus of gunpla. smile.gif

just want to know, is there any alternative to
the already expensive mr hobby topcoat series?

and do flat coat really can cover light scratches like
from a 1000 grit sandpaper.
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not sure if got flat top coat for other brand, but for gloss stop coat, can try other brand, but i forget which brand already, cost cheaper than mrHobby

QUOTE(lawliet88 @ Jul 27 2011, 03:47 AM)
if for gloss coat , can use the future floor wash (rm50+ from ace hardware, medium size bottle, can paint and air brush, after paint ur gundam smell good also  rclxms.gif )
flat cloat.. last time i found resource say tat krylon flat spray quite good, but now they cancel the old top coat liao.

other commercial brand topcoat spray don dare to try yet lol.
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is there any flat top coat in commercial line? hmm.gif
amduser
post Jul 27 2011, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 12:45 PM)

Yeah, i just confirmed with the owner of the brand. It's what we, malaysian, generally refer as "lacquer" thinner (For Mr.Color).
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so if i use lacquer thinner to thin the paint, and if my gunpla already got paint it will wash away the existing paint?
amduser
post Jul 27 2011, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 08:57 PM)
This is a wip i tried to record various compounding. the part is black in color, so the cloudy, whitish layer due to compounding. i realised if the color of the part is lighter tone of color, it's harder to realise the cloudy effect.

YHes, if u compound, u can actually achieving mirror like effect, something even more glossy than MG HD version. but to that extend, u need compound-Finish. Stopping at compound Fine, u can wow normal people but still can't escape eyes of those who r really picky.
yes.
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so if i want to spray my kit and then use the wash method for panel lining

the base paint should be in lacquer type then the panel line should be aryclic or enamel?

or can i go like this, lacquer base spray can > gloss top coat > panel line with wash method + decal > final top coat (gloss/flat)?
amduser
post Jul 28 2011, 01:50 AM

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will the lacquer thinner or enamel thinner "attack" the top coat?

and acrylic paint means water color? hmm.gif


amduser
post Jul 28 2011, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(daydreaming @ Jul 28 2011, 10:25 AM)
mmmm question hor...for gundam panel line marker...anyone knows the size of it? 0.05? tried to google but couldn't find the info. i find it a bit too thick esp when i wanna color the gundam head, the side there. :|

thinking if i shld get 0.02 panel line marker
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panel marker is less than 0.5, definitely not 0.5 else you better use mechanical pencil that way

i think panel marker is somewhere around 0.3, very fragile, there are 1 type of pen, they called it sketching pen (not very sure of the name), also 0.3

QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 28 2011, 11:29 AM)
Lacquer thinner will attack lacquer top coat.

Enamel thinner will not. that's why panel line after the top coat usually use enamel thinner.
need or no need is up to u. if there'r scratches on the  surface, and if someof the scratches is very deep until flat top coat cannot cover, or it's deep until there's whitish color; if u dont like the whitish color, gloss coat first will reduce the visible scratches.

Same concept as those CD recovery fluid to recover scratch CDs.
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how about water color for panel line? tongue.gif

QUOTE(dfcloud @ Jul 28 2011, 11:35 AM)
roger, thanks alot mr ray. probably gonna order a flat top coat. so it will be sanding->coarse polish->top coat
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if you dont wanna sand it, you can color it

if me i would prefer to color the scratched part after sand it until it is flat when touch
amduser
post Jul 28 2011, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 28 2011, 12:34 PM)
Haha, u really love to explore various ways of working huh? brows.gif

As i said, water has strong surface tension, therefore using water diluted paint might have the risk of the paint forming droplets. Meaning, it will gathering itself together n form a drop of water kinda effect. In panel line, u will see the paint "terputus putus". This may or may not happen depends on the thickness of the paint.

Same theory. pour some cooking oil (enamel-oil base) on the table, let it flow to the edge of the table n drop. u will see the oil flow nicely.

pour some water on the table, see it flow to the edge n drop. u will see the flow putus, and some of the water actually form droplets.
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looking for cheaper way ma, the money i spend on modding and tools is almost more than the money on gunpla itself

i was going to buy normal top coat instead of mrHobby super expensive top coat next time except for flat top coat

i'll try to find enamel paint and enamel thinner, i wonder how much this 2 will cost me, or maybe will use acrylic + water as cheaper alternative hmm.gif

i wonder if there is anything that can increase the viscosity of water slightly, but sugar is a big no laugh.gif

any website that i can check the color panel of the enamel paint? dont really like to go to shop and check the bottle

nvm, just found on tamiya website, i hope they got sell it in Time Machine

This post has been edited by amduser: Jul 28 2011, 04:07 PM
amduser
post Jul 31 2011, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 30 2011, 11:47 PM)
I m not sure what do u mean by whitish, any photo to show?

Anyway, primer surfacer is a new product line by Gunze, when u use any primer or surfacer, it's meant to cover all the original color of the plastic with a layer of gray. It means u have gotta paint everything. Is that what u r looking for?
Btw, ICW is initially workshops for 4 modelers, mainly gunpla modelers. Later since there r extra space, we decided to sell some modeling related stuff for local modelers. There r space n spray booth. If u come over, we can demo a little n tell u if there's anything wrongly done, even spray job. Hope to see u soon!
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you work in ICW? hmm.gif

the map a bit confusing, i went to 1U and KBU before, but the map in that website rclxub.gif

since i saw some extra space there, can i buy gundam and built there from scratch? brows.gif after building maybe can go down for some bakut teh laugh.gif
amduser
post Jul 31 2011, 01:09 AM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Jul 31 2011, 01:01 AM)
i jz bought Mr. Hobby Color paint bottles
does the paint need to be mix with thinner or can direct use?
i bought clear colour paints
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need to mix, if not it will be too thick
amduser
post Jul 31 2011, 12:41 PM

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next week cannot, got exam on that day doh.gif

too bad lar, you all open at night, i see quite a variety of tools you have there, especially the paint and spray can, maybe next time when i feel like going out to makan angin maybe will drop by that place to get some tools biggrin.gif

btw, the paint i buy from Time Machine is lacquer paint, and is metallic silver, i use it for panel line, since i didnt paint the gundam so i assume it is save to use for panel line

but the paint still look so thick even after i added 2 or 3 drops of thinner, if i add more the color will break down.

i feel like metallic silver is quite messy, once i've done with the line, then i clean up the excessive, but when i wipe that time i wipe the panel together doh.gif

i only use tissue then put a drop or two thinner on it and wipe, how to prevent it from wiping the panel? or need to wait for the paint to dry then only wipe?
amduser
post Aug 2 2011, 08:38 AM

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anyone know what is the blue color for gundam MK II titan ver.? and also the inner frame color, my grey gundam marker look like silver color and doesn't match the grey color of the inner frame hmm.gif

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