YEAHOOOOO!!

Woot! Neutral white XP-Gs!

Vote vote vote! 4250K - 4500K color temp.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=227751

Ur AW has a cut-off. Just because the resting voltage is 3.2V doesn't mean the voltage under load is 3.2V. You probably reached the cut-off point as voltage of a battery drops under load.

You can get Surefires in ACE hardware and some Wangsa Maju place. Ask Rookiedaddy or GW2U. But they are very expensive. I'd suggest getting from online, either webstores or ebay.

Bloke-gear is a pretty good place. It's HK website and shipping is reasonable. Ask Metalzone if you want another place for decent prices.

As for Lummi, you can just order from Rob directly. Start a group buy if you wanna get more people. Which light you wanna get?

This is pretty easy to answer. It boils down to your personal choice. Some questions to ask:

Modes and UI:
EZ 123: Low & High, twist low, twist further high.
MiNi 123: Low, med, high and hidded SOS, strobe, 2 beacons.

Size:
EZ 123: Longer and thinner
MiNi 123: Shorter but fatter

Brightness, beam & regulation:
MiNi is brighter and more efficient overall (thanks to the awesome CREE XP-G!). EZ throws further.
EZ is fully regulated. MiNi is not but is brighter for (almost) the (whole) duration of the battery.
MiNi is insanely bright on RCR but is not recommended (keep runtime below 3-4 mins on high).
MiNi's beam is very clean. EZ has typical XR-E artifacts.

Potential issues:
EZ is a battery crusher.
MiNi might skip modes (I haven't found this to be an issue but some has).
They are both ultra thin walled and heat will be an issue so don't let it overheat.

That aside, if you like clickies, why not get a Quark 123? It's quite small too. Or a Fenix PD20?

Didn't I post somewhere earlier that Thrunite's claims are all max emitter lumens? You should already be aware of this.

In my book, this is a manufacturer I'll stay away from. No different from Super ultra spider Fire and 280 lumens from a XR-E Q5. Sad..

But that's just me, thrunite is of course not the same as the fires but to me, how a manufacturer rates it's product tells me a lot about the manufacturer. Just my preferences. =D

Between the 2, pick the SA2. Unless you really want adjustable focus which kinda sucks.


There are things that makes the P100A2 better that the SA2. It mostly is down to efficiency and component used. P100A2 is more efficient (not much) and has better components (e.g. springs as opposed the the SA2's bent tabs).
Pick the ET if you can make the budget.
Pick the SA2 if you like variable brightness. (ET has only 2 modes, SA2 can ramp up and down)
I used to suggest the ET but now I recommend the SA2 over the P100. Get the SC2 if possible because it looks that much better and is way shorter. P100C2 also is recommended. =)
(Sorry, most 2xAA lights are just yuckily ugly. Both P100A2 and SA2 falls here)


SA2 has SMO as well, if I'm not mistaken. Also, the SA2's beam is nicer.


If the admin wants you to close it, you should. It is in their jurisdiction what is allowed and not. If we use their forum, then we must follow their rules. =)


It means it can be submerged up to a depth of [manufacturer specified]meters for [manufacturer specified]hours. It's about as vague as you can get unless the manufacturer actually specifies it (most don't). Just take it as it can be submerged in water. Just don't take it diving.


Erm.. This doesn't make sense.
P100A2's have always used the XP-E.
SA2's also use XP-E by the way. And the SA2 has a nicer beam (if I'm not mistaken) due to centered LEDs. P100's tend to be off center a lot.

This post has been edited by polkiuj: Jun 24 2010, 03:50 PM

I see. Sorry I don't know about laser laws (I don't think we have any, haha) and can't help. Probably someone else can help (and already has!!)


Erm.. Actually X-RE's throw better than the X-PE's thanks to it's lower beam angle. X-RE's have an angle of 90º while X-PE 120º (I thinks). That's why all the crazy throwers use X-RE's (DEFT, Tiablo A10, Deereelight, etc.). Also the X-RE's can be driven harder (according to CREE's specs)

=)

I think the SA2 looks really ugly too. So does most other AA lights. Dunno why they can't design it to look like their 2x123 lights. The SC2 and P100C2 looks so much better. The only light that breaks this convention seems to be the Quark AA^2. But it looks long and weird but at least not ugly. (My own opinion, don't shoot me k?)

U r lucky. Haha! I've seen many P100A2's. Those off centered (many of them) have skewed beams. Those centered have a donut hole (a real one, not a perceived one).

Hey hey~! If I'm not mistaken, the XR-E and XP-E have the same die. The only difference is the package and the lens. The XR-E throws better (probably) because of it's 90º projection instead of XP-E's 120º.


Gwen/Dannie @ GW2U should have them. Give them a ring/email/PM.


Let me tell you what to look for. You need a TIR optic, with a relatively large die LED (XP-G's nice, small dies seems to have more artifacts) with a really really short bezel (TIR almost reaching the front of bezel, if you want the spill to reach your legs).

There is not a light I can name that can give you this so you gotta search harder. Teehee!

Also, not all TIR works the same. Best is if you take the MODUS' TIR and mod it into something. My Decree has much less smoothness and the spill does not reach as far (It still is a monster, haha!) You can try the DeCree see if you like that. =) Contact me if you wanna take a look/try it out. =)

I believe DeinanCF is looking for a gradual transition from hotspot to spill, not a smooth one (Yes there is a big difference). As you know, reflectored lights have hotspot>spill. Some have hotspot>transition>spill. But the MODUS has Hotspot>less hot hot spot>very bright spill>spill>not so bright spill. You get the picture. There is more than 1 transition stage. That makes for less "tunnel vision" effect. Only a TIR or a specially designed reflector can do that.
Actually, even before the mod, the XR-E was doing alright. Just that the hotspot is really ugly and there are ugly rings (typical of XR-Es)


Erm.. do they have any to begin with? xD


Of course the XP-E's whole package is smaller than a XR-E. But that's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the die size. Which is the little yellow thing in the middle of the LED that makes the light. Both XR-E and XP-E should be using the same die in a different package.

Smaller dies do throw better that's why a XR-E/XP-E throws better than a XP-G.

Since the XR-E and XP-E has the same die, the difference in throw comes from the different pattern of light coming out of the LED. XR-E's 90º should do much better in TIR/aspheric style lights. And the XP-E's 110-120º should de better in reflectors (and have a dimmer spill I guess).


Okies. But that's gotta be next week or so cos I didn't bring them. Hehe. But I still prefer the MODUS unless I need the extra firepower. MODUS for the win!!

What news? O.o!!

Hahaha! That's the best description I can come out with. That's why I love her so much!

That's because a DSLR is cheap! At least mine is. Only RM 1100. =D And that huge sensor is awesome.

Straighten it la!!

U got PS u can erase the dust lol. Or just wipe it clean haha!

Dun play play guys, Damon is a professional. =D

With great power comes great responsibility (if it's a drop-in). Be careful.

3 poofed drop-ins!? Ouch, very painful lesson.

Now I know why I dun use them. (Well actually the good ones are too exp. haha!)

From M6 to a Kroma! Woot!

I'm pretty sure that the unit is right here in the Peninsula. =D And most of us don't know him (probably all of us). =D
And he's crazier than us. =D 1st foray into high powered flashlights is a SR90 AND TK40. Amazing!


If you look carefully, LR says that it puts out 225 OTF lumens, not 240 OTF. It is not possible for a XR-E R2 that is focused by a normal reflector to produce 240L OTF.

Are you going to change the LED or only the driver?

If you're running an XP-G and you're confident of your thermal path, I think it can be driven to 1.2A. 1.3A - 1.5A if you wanna push it but you gotta be careful of the light.

If you're gonna run XR-E then 1A is sufficient. You can go up to 1.3A if you wanna push and if you're able to find the driver.

If you wanna keep the stock brightness, I would guess that the TK12 was driven to 1A.

There is no difference between the 2 bins if the LED is the same. They are impossible to tell apart unless they are marked or you have an integration sphere.

A light meter may or may not be able to help (too many variables).

Hi bimmer!

Few I can think of:

4Sevens MiNi 123 @ RM 130 (key chain sized) [XP-G R5]
iTP A1 @ RM 85, SS=RM105 (key chain sized) [XP-E Q5]
iTP SC1/SC2 @ RM 140 (bigger sized) [XP-E R2]
iTP A4 @ RM 105 (2 CR123 version of A1) [XP-E Q5]

If you can get second hand, it'll be even bette value!
Walter

You can only get cheap lights at that price. =) Ultrafires and sorts.