Just a little correction.
Actually TIR is a beam collimator. =D

Watt does determine brightness. But it's only one of the factors. You'll need another reading to determine the brightness and that is efficiency/efficacy. Without it the wattage will tell you nothing.
As a side note, ignore all wattage rated lights for brightness readings as it will really tell you nothing of its brightness. (Esp. the 90-200W china lights, lol)

I advise you to try one light 1st. After a while you'll decide what criteria is important to you.


Forget Ultrafires and all other (not)cheerful chinese cheapies.
If budget is tight the iTP A (A1, A2, A3, etc.) series is the best.
If you can stretch just a little bit then you might wanna look at 4Sevens MiNi/Preon (for small lights) or iTP's S series (SA1/2, SC1/2)

You need to provide a budget and some sort of preference (size, batt, usage, etc.)

The iTP S series is an excellent place to start looking. Look for GW2U.

Alkalines should not drain up if you're not using it. It has quite a low self-discharge rate. It will drain if your circuit is not cut off. Alkalines generally lasts for years.
But that being said, alkalines has a high chance of leakage and should never be kept in high heat areas. (Car)

Looks like you got a very hard to meet budget. And a very weird light to buy. Haha!

At that kinda budget, I guess only Maglites are cheap enough.

Here's my suggestion. Look around ebay. You should be able to find Dmags for ~100. Look for the new LED version if possible. =)

My thoughts are that D size is weird and generally not well received. =)

If you can wait, we *MIGHT* be getting our own Surefire dealer at reasonable prices soon! =D

The real stuff? They'll cost from that to FAR more than that, only in USD instead of RM, depending on the maker and steel used.

If you're looking for a real Japanese katana made of tamahagane by a master smith then be prepared to pay the rough equivalent of a car. xD

I recommend to following.
Twisty cheap and awesome keychain lights: 47's MiNi AA, iTP A(i dunno what). iTP cheaper but less efficient and no knurling.
Clicky: Fenix E10. Awesome build!! 1 mode only! Simple and sweet.

If you wanna spend more then ur choices are limitless. Lol


Maglite is not too bad depending on which model of Surefire or Pelican u are comparing to. Some of course are FAR brighter than maglites.

I doubt the HID would be very good in fog either. Anyone wants to confirm??

MiNi 123 of cos!! Then again I'm biased right? =D
But the reason is because of the XP-G. It's efficiency and floodiness is perfect for small lights. =D

I'd take (base on value vs performance)
MiNi 123 > A1 EOS > EX123 > PD10

If you want full regulation, forget the 47's and iTP. =)

Dear Solarforce,

Please open a new sales thread. This is a discussion thread. U'll clutter up the thread and also very hard to fin info of the lights U sell once this thread goes on for a few more pages.

Just link ur thread in ur sig. =)

Thanks!

They both go VERY HOT!

The diff. is that Ti stays hot in the head. Heat does not move well. Alu transfers much better.

Alu is better for the LED. Ti is tougher overall and more durable but scratches VERY (mirror polished) easily.

Alu threads are MUCH smoother.

Ti is more exp. (duh?).

Ti is prettier and more exotic.

I think I covered pretty much everything.

Oh yea 1 more. Ti has a longer waiting period than alu, wahahhaa!