Wahaha! Very funny guys! xD

Anyway, I managed to get it open. =D

And I tested the OPTIC with my LD10's XP-G. The beam is SOOOOOO much smoother. Now to visit the modshop! =D

I'm so excited! I hope to have the 1st XP-G MODUS in the world. xD

edit: I didn't kill the Fenix driver. It's working fine. =D I just modded it to suit my tastes. =D

This post has been edited by polkiuj: Apr 26 2010, 12:00 PM

Yup, ICON MODUS.

It is now being operated. =D

Didn't bring my camera.. =(

Such a pretty light!

@Rookie: I like it too! Can you do mine too? =D

One has already bit the bullet. =D
Nice light hehe!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY CRAIG!! =D

This post has been edited by polkiuj: Apr 28 2010, 01:48 PM

Of course! I'm psychic! Didn't U know?

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Sorry, it doesn't work that way. =D


I used to use registered mail. They changed it already?
U could buy insurance?

I'd recommend the Byrd series. Built like a Spyderco but priced much lower. Even the steel performs similarly to VG-10 at a much reduced price. Low RM100 can get. =D

U gotta service it to get it to perform well of course. =D



U need tp use a smaller aperture (higher f number like f/11) to get more depth of field (more stuff in focus). f/1.4 would be far worse.

U dun need a macro lens, just shoot as close as possible then crop! Haha!

U dun need a flash too, just set up a nice diffused lighting "studio" with all ur flashlights! Use bounce or a cloth to get the diffused (soft) light.

Hehe.

Bokeh is "out of focus parts".

I've been there once I guess. It's more of a biking trail, I guess too long for walks unless U know the ways.



@Susuman, thats quite a bit of modding you've been doing. =D

Let's see if anyone can catch this. =D







P.s. sorry for the not straightness. Am in office with boss around. =D So just use iSight. =D

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Added on April 30, 2010, 3:43 pmLookie!



Not my pic k?


This post has been edited by polkiuj: Apr 30 2010, 03:43 PM

1. Agreed.

2. Very funny read.

"But through this thing, I'd really long lesson, which many people said flashlight forum Shenhuo toys, because you could not bear to use, so just play with, are homemade daily, but really to a dangerous moment Perhaps some people will understand, is that cheap China-made toys, because usually use small tube to play with friends, the longest 10 minutes but the light it really lit 6,7 hours later, you bad out, huh, huh, in fact, ironically, usually the things that the toy is the practical things, ordinary things that a work is the key when it is found in a toy."
Haha! Glad that it's true.

"I am the knife of Friends, so the body was prepared F1, buck 110, and a domestic well-known imitate, but to hit the real situation faced by many knife, it may be normal can imagine, for example, cutting the rope, a large tent when the wind needs to fixed with a knife, tent, including digging, smashing, prying, etc., in fact, the face of natural disaster, a small utility knife is very small, really need is a large industrial machine, I can explain is that, three knives, homemade imitate broken; buck 110 tip fracture; FK in F1 is very strong, but it also became jagged, and was leaving when the two can with a knife (F1 and 110) remain in the area, hope to continue to play heat it."
Oops. =D

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Added on May 3, 2010, 10:46 amDamon, I think you want this. =D




This is the 1.5A drop-in. I hope the heat sinking is up to par.



On a side note, tsk tsk to Thrunite.. Rating an LED the max it can output is a no-no. =D
493 lumens is the max the R5 LED can make @ 1.5A (Providing u get very close to 146 lumen @ 350mA)
Tsk tsk..

But still, it'll be one bright sucker.

This post has been edited by polkiuj: May 3 2010, 10:46 AM

Cool LEDs have their place. If is extremely useful for blinding people. Incans are too slow and neutral is more pleasing to the eye.

He should have got an Eagletac T10LC2. That I'm pretty sure can take the heat.



I'd stick to modestly driven, long runtime lights with a max of 2 modes for mission critical stuff. My (previous) Inova T1 was perfect for the situation. All the heavily driven LEDs are just for kicks.

Uncle Wong,

Please spoiler the product announcement part. Thanks.

Too long =D

edit: thanks! Maybe you can add a link that links to the previous "specs sheet"

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Added on May 3, 2010, 4:39 pmWOW! U can tell from that out of focus blur pic!?



You must check it out man! The beam is so sweet now! =D (It has what looks like a donut hole in the middle though)
*ehem* not to mention BRIGHT! Wahahaha! *ehem*

Huge yellow donut ring where?



Last pic is (top - bottom)
cool white XP-G
neutral white XP-G
warm white XP-G

This post has been edited by polkiuj: May 3 2010, 04:50 PM

They are terrible outdoors. It washes out all the colors.

At least the normal CREE ones la. Not sure about high CRI cool whites. =D

Personally, CREE's neutral renders the same as cool whites. bad.

Neutral tint is more pleasing to the eye though, that's why I like them.

"Green" tinted LEDs are not that bad. You won't realize the tint actually using it. It all looks white.

Even purple ones look white, and blue ones as well. =D

Wow~! 400 lumen! But it looks like a HUGE drop in lumens at 3 min mark.
At 3 mins, lumens is only 80% of turn on.
Arctic Silver helps but lumens is still only 82% of turn on.

However, after 3 mins, junction temperature has already reached 115 - 120ºC (110ishºC with AS5).
I'd be very careful with these.

Wow these things are really driven at 1.5A

lol!







edit:

Oh yea, BTW..

Just went thru BigC's list.

MiNi AA turns on >300L and still retains 88% of it's turn on lumens after 3 mins. Seems like it has really good sinking. I wouldn't turn it on for >5 mins. Keep it at 3 to be safe?

Please do NOT use 10440 in the Preon I. It will turn on >300L but only retains 80% (115ºC - 120ºC) after 30 SECONDS!! Lol.

This post has been edited by polkiuj: May 4 2010, 04:02 PM

No la. He held it in his hands.

It will move the heat all over the aluminum. It will got HOT! But the LED die seems to remain in a nice safe temperature. =D

There is no way a 18650 will fit without boring.

High chance that a 17670 will not fit either.

Since the E2DL is a buck only driver, I don't see why 2 x 3.7V Li-ion cannot be used. The Inova T1 (also primary only) has no issues at all with 2 x 3.7V Li-ion. If you are extremely brave, why not try it and report your results.

When you 1st turn it on, soft press (momentary) to make sure the light is OK. If the tint shifts blue, STOP immediately (and sell off the batteries xD). I reckon it should be no issues at all.



BTW, how does the E2DL change modes? Is it the circuit? or tailcap? If tailcap then you might wanna prepare to buy another in case it goes poof.

But then again I use a really small underrated resistors without any problems so far with Li-ions.





Added: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=216863

Seems like a lot of people run 2 x RCR123s (3.7V) without any problems. The run-time would suck though..

This post has been edited by polkiuj: May 5 2010, 09:42 AM

I say use 2 x RCR123 (3.7V) and if you kill it (which you shouldn't), use it as an excuse to UPGRADE! Mwahahaa!

BTW, it's not really art. Unless you're cheap like us and dun wanna use primaries! Mwahahaha!

This post has been edited by polkiuj: May 5 2010, 12:48 PM

He could buy many of my car. Lol